Added: 3 years ago
From: Glassworks1
Views: 15,655
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  • Awesome work Matt,thank you for showing us how to do this at home.I'm working on my '52 Chevy Bel Air with some stainless work that needs attention.I just learned a lot.Thanks again.Brian

  • Awesome. Thanks for sharing this info!

  • question: i got a buff wheel and some green rouge and tested it out on a nice piece i had that has no damage other than it 45 years old and it polished really well except i noticed a lot of very light scratches that i though it would take out. is that something black rouge would take care of if i got it or am i better off going over the entire piece with 600/1000 grit sandpapers?

  • try using 400 grit & then work up from there

  • that looks like a 6 inch wheel to me. not a 4

  • Ooops, you misheard us. It was a used buffing wheel (it actually was a used 10 inch cotton buff)...."but a 4 inch wheel would work just fine". You can pick one of those at the hardware store, and it'll help take a bit of the labor out.

  • @Glassworks1 actually i bout a 4 pack of them yesterday! wanna make stainless restoration into a side business for me. one can quite a lot of buck restorin old stainless of coarse you know all bout that.

  • thanks for the great tips. very good job on the vedio. (:

  • Great video! I love MetAll but I've mostly used it for aluminum, old Harley parts. I use cheesecloth instead of a shop rag. T-shirts are good too. Maybe I'll try stainless some day.

  • Just saw all the videos and now im more than confident that i can repair all the metal trim on my Datsun 510. Thank you guys!

  • Do you know if a 3hp (3600rpm) bench grinder will work better than a 1/3hp (3600rpm) grinder because of the power?

    Also, if my stainless car trims have deep scratches, do you suggest I wet sand them first before I put them on the buffer?

    If so, what grids of sand paper should I use in order? Thank you.

  • The higher horsepower willl help you, and I would wet sand the scratches first. Try 220 grit first, and work up to 400 & 600.

  • Great series - good questions and answers as you went along. Nice explanations as well.  What file did you use to start?

  • Hi, great video.

    I'm a jeweller and I have the buff and rouge etc, I also have the green rouge that looks the same as the one that's used here. I'm just wondering what your buff is made from? Is it a hard wheel or soft? I have chamois leather ones and a hard one (calico I think). Which is best for polishing stainless? thanks.

  • In this video we used soft sewn cotton wheel. It's great for finishing & since we used a grinder as our buffer, in the video, it worked well for that particular application.

  • Excellent, thanks for getting back to me!

  • Hi - would it be a similar process for chrome hubcaps??

  • Not if it's chrome! You need to be sure that you are working with stainless or another unplated material. So if it's NOT plated then you'd follow this same procedure.

  • hi just to help, chrome as you know is plated if you use anything but a buffing compound and soft cloth you will rip the chrome off and find yourself looking at a face full of copper ,green and red are for soft metals like silver, gold, white gold and other weak metals but they still work

    be careful around chrome

  • Excellent video series.

    I have an old SS Colt .45 I plan to use these techniques on.

    Thanks for the info and tips.

  • Hey thanks you guys, I repaired the stainless on my 78 holden wagon, I'm blown away. A guy wanted $65 an hour to do it.

    Thanks.

  • hey fellas, thanks for the for the footage man. I just fixed and polished all the stainless on my 65' fastback thanks to you guys,,,,,, I was just wondering dont you have to seal the stainlees?

  • no...i would just use the met all metal cleaner to keep up with it.

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