Added: 1 year ago
From: 1aauto
Views: 70,845
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  • Wish i had watched this video before i removed my yoke....Now i dont know where to install the yoke nut to? as to how much to tighten it down to. I thought it was just a set amount or tourque to set didnt know about the crush sleeve. Any ideas on how to resolve this? I have a 84 K10 1/2 ton with 10 bolt rearend. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

  • @dkhill27 If you have a service or a Chiltons manual it should show you install everything back together to it's proper specs. The way that we show in the video is the easier way to do it, however one of the repair manuals should have an illistration for you as to how it all fits together, and proper torque specs. Hope this helps you out.

  • why not just use a torque wrench and torque it to spec

  • @steevo630 After tightening the bolt down with a gun, we do use a torque wrench to make sure it's within specs. Thank you for visiting our auto repair channel on YouTube. Have a great day!

  • Great video even though I don't have any need to do this. I think I've got bad rear bearings, but thought I'd watch this while searching.

  • @wbmartin3 Thank you for visiting our auto repair channel on YouTube.

  • thank you very much extreamly helpfull

  • Could you please specify why the bolts / pinion / body was marked.

    Why is it so important to align exactly.

  • @jahanzebakhter1 The mark is so you can tighten the bolt back up exactly as you took it apart. This insures that you keep the proper pressure on the bearings and the proper clearances between the gears. If you do not do it this way you could wear out your differential prematurely. An alternative would be to use plasti-gauge and re align the entire assembly.

  • @jahanzebakhter1 The issue is that there is a crush sleeve on the pinion. If you overtighten it it will pull the pinion out of alignment with the gear, and there is no going back without replacing the sleeve.

    There is a very small window that you have to stay in. So when you re-install you want it to be exactly where it was, and then just a touch more.

    You can do this by measuring torque before taking it apart, or by marking the position of the nut.

  • perfect video thank you, I like how you use basic tools the whole time to help us backyard boys understand better :) even tho you didnt use jack stands :p just kidding

  • my manual says to use 90w gear oil. can you use like 70w 90 or do i have to look for just 90w?

  • @nico27004 Yeah, use what it says in the manual. Ask at the place you're going to get it at, if you cannot find it.

  • probally the most usefull video i have seen! I just have one question will the same steps apply to the front differential? please respond thanks.

  • Very very very good video. I like how you fast forward the non-important parts but still show it so I know that what I am doing is right. Very smart!!! Thank you!!!

  • thank you so much, you just gave me the motivation to go out and fix mine! i thought this was much harder to do than it really is, thank you

  • ur video helped me lot... i love ur home made tool..lol

  • Thanks for the trouble! It's a service to those trying to learn.

    Much appreciated.

  • If you, or any viewers were wondering I fixed my problem with the proper seal, i did exactly as you showed in the video except i tied the drive shaft up with some speaker wire. the chatter which I was experiencing was the pinion nut being loose in the rear end, i tightened it as hard as I could with my own two hands and put some locltite on it. shouldn't be coming off anytime soon the noise was eliminated and no more leak!

  • Thanks for the video, very informative. Makes me think I can do it myself :)

  • Glad you found the video to! Bad pinion seal usually only causes a leak no noise.

  • @1aauto Cool, thanks for the fast reply and I plan on ordering from your site very soon.

  • My 1986 Chevrolet K5 Blazer is leaking from the same spot....I'm so glad I found this video.

    Also, would replacing this seal eliminate the chatter I hear from the rear end? Or is that a whole nother can of worms? haha

  • Looks good!

    I rarely pull the driveshaft from the trans. I just move it to the side and bungee or zip tie it to the leaf spring frame etc. I also wrap the universal with two turns of electrical tape to keep the caps from falling off.

  • Thanks for posting, this did help me out...

  • great video and very helpful keep the videos comming.......

  • Wow I was just watching this video yesterday and today I went out to do some exhaust work on my 88 GMC Jimmy and noticed that very seal was leaking! At least I know the correct way to fix it now!

  • Wow Great work.

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