that's one of the worst B&S carbs i have seen. I had one just about as bad... it is very difficult to get them back into proper working order after this happens. you can get it to run enough to mow with but it's very hard to get a nice smooth idle and snappy revs and easy starts after this happens. Someone could probably soda blast the body (plug up the needle seat so that doesn't get damaged) to get it all cleaned up.
@wreckrman2 While not ideal, a crescent wrench does the job. I don't understand your reason for name calling. I feel the information I provided was accurate and helpful, unlike what one would gather from an 'idiot' with 'no real knowledge of small engines'.
Wow.... typical backyard mechanic with NO REAL KNOWLEDGE of smal engines. Just an idiot with a camera. The best part is the use of a crescent wrench to tighten the float bowl!
Yep, it was. I ended up cleaning it again this spring from more rust. They make the pin that holds the float out of some sort of iron that rusts, yet everything else is either brass or aluminum. Seems intentional to me :(
@zcomputerwiz change the pin with annother or make one out of vrass, i have the same one as you and i replaced it never had to do anything yet, hope it helps :)
You missed a real important point here. When you reinstall the bowl you need to back out the needle valve then tighten with 1/2 bolt. Then reset the needle vale to the correcte setting, something like 1/2 turn back from where it seatt, but good show overall.
If you want a new one, you could get a parts diagram (briggs & stratton web site) and look for that part number on ebay. Be warned they are very expensive. I got my replacement carb from a bone yard, just be sure you bring your original so that you get the same type.
Cant say how many carbs ive had to clean thru the years- most the time with really rusty carbs , ill just put another spare on it. Youre right tho- 10 to 13HP motors are virtually the same - 14HP and up single cylenders have the 'multi piece' carb- twins have a totally different setup. Newer carbs/motors dont have the adjustable float bowl screw either.
These carbs are actually pretty different, as far as intake design. The one you have was the earlier one-piece carb made by Briggs. The newer engines have Walbro and Nikki carbs, with a seperate intake tube, made of aluminum or plastic. They tend to be finicky because of the smaller jet holes.
All the ones I have access to (3 12hp, 2 11hp, all on old riding mowers) have this carb. Sorry about the misinformation. Will still work for most bowl and float setups :)
that's one of the worst B&S carbs i have seen. I had one just about as bad... it is very difficult to get them back into proper working order after this happens. you can get it to run enough to mow with but it's very hard to get a nice smooth idle and snappy revs and easy starts after this happens. Someone could probably soda blast the body (plug up the needle seat so that doesn't get damaged) to get it all cleaned up.
KrankieV2 3 months ago
throw i out... its fucked lol
ismokewead420 4 months ago
Rust never sleeps never ever try to rebuild a carb that's full of rust
backwoodsctryboy 4 months ago
@wreckrman2 While not ideal, a crescent wrench does the job. I don't understand your reason for name calling. I feel the information I provided was accurate and helpful, unlike what one would gather from an 'idiot' with 'no real knowledge of small engines'.
zcomputerwiz 10 months ago 2
Wow.... typical backyard mechanic with NO REAL KNOWLEDGE of smal engines. Just an idiot with a camera. The best part is the use of a crescent wrench to tighten the float bowl!
WreckRman2 10 months ago
you have a digital camera but no proper wrenches. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm,,,,,,
flankdrive45 10 months ago
Thanks for making this video!
Your carb makes me feel much better about mine. :)
UnoRaza 1 year ago
PRETTY CRUSTY TO NOT CLEAN IT!
jeepers2655 2 years ago
Yep, it was. I ended up cleaning it again this spring from more rust. They make the pin that holds the float out of some sort of iron that rusts, yet everything else is either brass or aluminum. Seems intentional to me :(
zcomputerwiz 2 years ago
@zcomputerwiz change the pin with annother or make one out of vrass, i have the same one as you and i replaced it never had to do anything yet, hope it helps :)
copsinmyhouse 1 year ago
You missed a real important point here. When you reinstall the bowl you need to back out the needle valve then tighten with 1/2 bolt. Then reset the needle vale to the correcte setting, something like 1/2 turn back from where it seatt, but good show overall.
xXemokid420 3 years ago 3
it doesnt have to be a 1/2 a turn if u screw it in all the way and then un screw it 1 1/2 turns it will start up every time then u can do ur tuneing
dustingroat 2 years ago
where could i get a new 11hp carb from?
bigmaaack 3 years ago
If you want a new one, you could get a parts diagram (briggs & stratton web site) and look for that part number on ebay. Be warned they are very expensive. I got my replacement carb from a bone yard, just be sure you bring your original so that you get the same type.
zcomputerwiz 3 years ago
Cant say how many carbs ive had to clean thru the years- most the time with really rusty carbs , ill just put another spare on it. Youre right tho- 10 to 13HP motors are virtually the same - 14HP and up single cylenders have the 'multi piece' carb- twins have a totally different setup. Newer carbs/motors dont have the adjustable float bowl screw either.
dangeroustoys56 3 years ago
These carbs are actually pretty different, as far as intake design. The one you have was the earlier one-piece carb made by Briggs. The newer engines have Walbro and Nikki carbs, with a seperate intake tube, made of aluminum or plastic. They tend to be finicky because of the smaller jet holes.
suchfunstuff 3 years ago
All the ones I have access to (3 12hp, 2 11hp, all on old riding mowers) have this carb. Sorry about the misinformation. Will still work for most bowl and float setups :)
zcomputerwiz 3 years ago