Added: 2 years ago
From: TheAberax
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  • Disregard that =D

  • Oh Ok I think you mistook EBC for ECU.

    I ment an electronic boost controller. Something like a turbosmart eboost. You will make boost quicker and probaly a few more ponies too. Bin the boost T.

  • Sorry for some reason I thought you had a bleed valve =S

    Very nice sleeper build btw

  • Get yourself an EBC. Quick!

  • @jimboppins2230

    The haltech has its own built in, and I do have the solenoid. Once I have built up my replacement engine I may use it.

  • what hp is that? Im looking at swapping a gt3076R on a rb25det stock motor and stock exhaust manifold what kind of whp figures can I expect, right now I have a t28 pos that is leaking.

  • @hooknbookls1

    262.4rwkw is about 351hp at the rears, be a bit more at the engine.

  • @TheAberax thanks, and what psi is that? my goal is to make 500whp so I'm thinking I will need a gt35r turbo.or bigger maybe 400whp will keep me happy temporarily. right now I am looking for a good top mount setup and trying to set a budget for the parts I will actually need. what are 550 injectors good till? at what rpm does the turbo spool up at ? thanks again

  • @hooknbookls1

    I think it was around 15psi, a 3076 will get you to around the 500whp power mark but it will be pushing it, the new GTX3076 may be a better choice in that regard. 550cc Injectors would also be at their max also, it also depends on what fuel you are using, if you use E85, then you need larger injectors. Boost was hitting about 3.5-4k and staying on hard till redline.

  • the air temp sensor is in the wrong place.

    the stock ic pipework is restrictive.

    why did you keep the maf?

  • @mbautomotive2008

    That is where my Tuner put the Air Temp Sensor - was used only for Tuning.

    I kept the MAF there to help keep the "stock" look for just incase the Police decide to have a look under the bonnet. The performance difference between having it there or not is very slim, and I was happy with the results.

  • @TheAberax

    you cannot calculate correct speed density from iat in that position.. you must be sensing CHARGE air temp, since there are many variables in the air temp change from that point (boost level, IC eff,)

    this means your IC could become internally oiled. or the core blocked and you will lose an engine due to the ecu not being able to see the change in charge air temp..

  • Also, are you even running a front mount intercooler on this? or just the standard intercooler??

  • @Grazzassv

    I am running a FMIC that uses the stock piping route - IC0014 is the code of the FMIC I have, I bought it from a mate, not too sure where he sourced it from. If you do a google search for IC0014 FMIC, you'll find it :)

  • Hey mate, with the 3076, with those few mods you have, around what Rpm does the turbo hit full boost?? Will be interesting to know as i am looking at this exact turbo and mods for my car! Cheers!

  • @Grazzassv

    I can't remember, I think it was around 3-3.5k rpm, maybe a little higher. I haven't driven the car in 4 months now as the engine gave up at a track day in Oct 2010. Currently saving for a engine rebuild, so will have it back together later this year, with a few more videos :)

  • @TheAberax Oh cheers, so its a pretty responsive turbo then, coz thats what im looking for, a turbo that spools decent and is quite responsive in power, Cheers! 

  • @Grazzassv

    It isn't too bad, it isn't as responsive as the stock turbo, if you went with a smaller rear housing then the 0.82 - like I have, I reckon it would be a good medium between power and response, but with the bigger rear housing you get more higher RPM power/peak power from the turbo. Just really depends what you are after. My engine rebuild will be trying to regain some of the response that has been lost with the larger turbo.

  • why only 15psi? the turbo is barely getting started there, aim for 18-20 and you should see almost 300kw easily.

    unless of course its a stock motor and you dont want to lean on it too hard.

  • @roflex2

    The engine was completely stock, except for those Modifications listed. At the time I was only after 250rwkw, I got the mark I wanted plus a bit, I was happy.

    The engine has since blown up (October 2010) at a Car Club Track Day, so when I rebuild my spare block, I will be shooting for more power - power under the curve as-well. :)

  • @TheAberax Bummer about it popping, was it the tune or just the stock bottom end/rings letting go?

  • @roflex2 Did a compression test, cylinder 4 gave a result of 5psi, and had heaps of oil in the bore. So my guess is rings. The car was blowing lots of smoke, popping the oil dipstick out, so it makes sense.

    Later in 2011, after I save money from my trip to Tokyo Autosalon (Videos of this to come during my trip in a few weeks:) ) I shall rebuild it bigger and better (videos of this will be posted on youtube :).

  • Hey mate..265rwkw is kinda low for a 3076.. u should b getting near 300.. what other mods do u have on the car?

  • @usmair All the Mods are listed at the beginning of the Video. Nismo 740cc Injectors GT3076R Haltech E11v2 Bosch 040 3" Turbo - Cat 3" Magnaflow Cat 3.5" Apexi Cat Back FMIC and running 15psi. It would ultimately come down to which Dyno it is, and how it is set up. I could go on another Dyno and get a higher power reading, or a lower power reading.
  • 15psi genius!

    U have to push 20+psi to get over 300.

  • @usmair not always, depends on housings etc, especially if its a standard nissan rear housing! standard high flowed out to 3076 will max out at around 280 if it has the smaller front housing fitted.... different setups for different people!

  • nice, genuine reading

  • i love that the way that turbo sounds!

  • nice one abe go to be happy with that :D

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