Added: 4 years ago
From: henrols
Views: 68,277
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  • ggod one.

    one Al piece bored at both ends and fitted the collect along with the ball bearings.now how did u lock the collect on the top side.

    and whats the power of the spindle motor

  • Thanks, the spindle housing is steel with an Al heatsink pressed on. The shaft is a straight shank ER16 chuck which has a collar at the bottom that prevents it from being "pushed into" the bearings. A ring is then glued to the shaft above the bearings pushnig the inner races together and preventing the shaft from "falling out" of the bearings. A flange at the bottom holds the outer races and provides preload. I was sceptical about gluing but it has worked years. Motor is 3phase, 1.1kW

  • thanks for the reply.

    it would be much better if you could post a line diagram of the spindle assembly.

    just for understanding.

  • Real nice!

  • Very nice work ! but some coolant fluid nozzles would make it even better

    // Greetings from sweden

  • Henrol ? could you give me the program xD?

    ( Codes and shit ) I want to try it to ^^

  • If you mean the G-code program I'm not sure I have it anymore, besides it would be too long to post here...

    If you mean 'codes and shit' for Mach3 then the answer is no - sorry. There's a working demo available at their site which is more than enough for a testrun and even for most basic home-shop machining.

  • i am wanting to get into cnc milling for my flight sim parts but I don't yet understand alot of it can you tell me what is the tool used is it a router? and what are the bits?

  • Hi,

    The spindle is built from a straight shank ER16 collet chuck, a turned housing and three bearings. It is driven by a 1.1kW three-phase motor via a belt. I did use a BOSCH router at the beginning but it had its drawbacks. Alot depends on what material you're going to cut.

    The 'bits' I use are various types endmills, there's a lot of different types available depending on type of material etc.

  • You stated that you have spent nearly $5000 on this system. I was wondering what the motivation was to go this route rather then buying a turn key operation. It doesn't seem that you got it any cheaper. I have been thinking about getting a Smithy CNC Mill

  • When I first started building there wasn't that many (if any you could afford) machines available, at least not here in Sweden. Today the small(ish) CNC-machine market have more or less exploded and you have a LOT more options, like Smithy and Tormach to name two.

    If you want/need a machine to make parts tomorow, by all means get a turnkey system. You'd probably get a more capable machine for the same money that I've spent.

  • yea, I wasn't really thinking about the time period you started the build, or the location. It looks like you ended up with a pretty nice machine and a great experience.

  • why no fluids? doesn't the friction cause wear on the tools??? ...not to mention the need for serious hearing protection.. ..still, nice freakin work man!!

  • Excellent video. Nice tool.

    Thanks for posting it.

  • ACA EN MEXICO SOMOS MAS CHINGONES

  • Did you build the mill or retrofit an existing

    mill..........good video

  • You need to slow that cutter down and increase the feed!

  • How long did it take to build it? cheers!

  • Well, I started in April 2001 and have been at it since then... ;-) I think I had functional after a year or so and then improvements, refinements and upgrades since then.

  • kool no need for steam mist or oil!! piece of cake for milling drilling and pocketing...e z program

  • It's an ashtray! ?

  • wow! that really impressed me. very well done.

  • when starting a drill cycle use a centre drill then your drill will not will not woder when it starts.

  • The surface looks like your machine's making pittings towards the z-axis, so the z-axis isn't sturdy enough... alloy profiles?

  • Yes, 190X80mm ALU profiles. The surface is OK but you are right that there are some flex in the Z-axis column. More than I wish there was. There are two L-shaped 12mm stainless "reinforcements" bolted on the side but I'm trying to figure out a way to make it sturdier.

    Thanks for the comment.

  • Perhaps support from the back. Have also heard of filling extrusions w/concrete.

    Still,a nice tool.

  • Excellent; thank you for posting :o)

  • only one i've seen i could put to use!

  • That is Awesome! Best one I've come across, how much did that hit you for $ wise? Cool stuff!

  • Thanks!

    Including controlpanel (not shown in video), motors, drives, linear rails, ballscrews, Mach3 license etc about $5000.

  • Great Job!!!Are you using stepper or servo motors?

  • Thanks! It has steppers on all three axis, ~3.5Nm. 4mm pitch ballscrews, directdrive. Gecko G210 and 45V powersupply.

  • awsome :)

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