@LmNutZ The answer to your 2nd & 3rd questions is yes.
Normally, the alternator charge wires , starter wires, and the mains from the relay box are home-run to the battery + right in the engine bay. When you move the battery to the trunk, you need to find a new way to connect the heavy-gauge starter wires, and the mains from the relay box. You want a separate circuit for the alternator because the voltage regulator wont "see" or charge the battery and instead will just power the car. Blame Ω.
Why all the distributor blocks? Cant you just bolt up the battery wire from the rear to the original positive connection like factory? Or are you just doing it to make it look cleaner? I understand the breaker for the battery but that's it. kinda still a noob for relocating batteries.
@silkrodd Many people who have done that found their voltage regulator didn't see the battery at the end of a long thick wire and only produced enough voltage to run the car after it was started. By using the battery as a buffer between the alternator (with its own charge wire) and the electrical system, it charges. So the voltage sees the draw on the battery rather than the electrical system. The distributor blocks just make the same connections, only neater & easier with bigger wires.
Flux and tin your cables befor soldering them into into the connectors. Takes about 10 seconds more, it will give you a much more durable of a connection, protects the inner core from oxidizeing over time, aswell as reduces the resistence at the point of connection.
@Lokivoid I thought of that, but I didn't have any. I couldn't find it at Lowe's? I just used flux-core solder. Would that have at least helped? Seems to be okay so far...
Odd for lowes not to sell flux, its normaly with the solder wire in the plumbing section, Some times it is just labled Rosin or tinning based on the application it was designed for (in this case "tinning" would be more suitable" but ether one would work). Its required for bleeding copper pipe thats why find it odd they did not have it in stock. As for cored solder, problem with the stuff is unless your using vary controled and limited heat the flux core boils out to fast.
If you want to improve the job without redoing the connection, shrink tubeing the gap between the wire and rubber bushing will help keep moisture from reaching the untinned portions of the wire. Other then that i wouldnt worrie to much about it unless you start seeing green or white rust around the connection indicateing the copper is oxidizeing. or if the connection feels warm to the touch when drawing current (indicateing to much resistence)
i havent done a battery relocation on my 1g yet, but i want to eventually. i have done some rewiring though. i didnt like the idea of having 2 8g wires for my main power wire that go from the battery to the relay box and from the relay box to the alt. so what i did was pull those and made my own from a solid 4g oxygen free wire. i even had just enough wire left to replace the ground the goes from the battery to the firewall. i have noticed a smoother rev. just my 2 cents
I had never relocated a battery before or ever used a solder joint connector prior to this, so I'm overjoyed I got it all right the first time. There seemed to be a lack of info regarding even what parts to use. The summit install kit is "complete", but doesn't contain everything. Apprehension created by the unknown, and misinformation on-line -ALMOST- prevented me from even getting the camera out to make this video.
Nah, you gotta do it so nothing asplodes. Gotta have a fuse or breaker within a foot of the battery, and the alternator needs a direct feed to the + separately from everything else. If you don't, the main can trip and the car will keep running off the alternator's power. I didn't install a cutoff switch, but that would be as easy as bolting it on + 1 wire to the main breaker. If I ever put a cage in it, I'll have to.
I know right? That thing's an eyesore. You would need to run a LOT of wires because that fuse panel is what ties the mains into every circuit in the car except the alternator and the starter. You'd need wires for every fused circuit run from the back to the front of the car. You might still even need to fuse some circuits on both ends.
You're better off finding somewhere to tuck it, but somewhere you can get to it because it needs to still be accessible.
That works for some. I thought about doing that. With my 3.5" GM MAF, it still wouldn't have fit, though. I had other factors that made me go this route.
I came to the conclusion after 2500 miles and 2 dead Optima Red Tops that they're junk and that I needed the CCA of a bigger battery that could handle a deep-cycle. I liked the idea of it not competing for space with other mods. Didn't know where else I could put my catch can with everything else already going on up front.
This has been flagged as spam show
EXCELLENT !!
Vital Electrocomp PCB CONNECTORS,TERMINAL BLOCKS, PCB FUSE HOLDERS, VITAL CONNECTROS, SCREW TYPE TERMINAL BLOCK, PUSH FIX CONNECTORS,COMBICON, PLUGGABLE CONNECTOR, PLUGGABLE TERMINAL BLOCK, BARRIER TERMINALS
Google Vital Connectors
VitalElectrocomp 5 days ago
help please on this video of yours
twiztid0011 3 months ago
that's how you do a well job! that's an installation! i like the cleanliness of it all a+++
elbobillo 3 months ago
Ist this a bit overkill?
fitimio001 4 months ago
good info. thanks for posting the video
NOOK n Cranny Auto Dayton
nookncrannydayton 8 months ago
So when you say "split the main wire for the starter + and the main relay box" What do you mean?
Do you mean put the main wire in a distribution box and connect the starter+ to one of the posts on the box?
Then connect the main power wires into that same distribution box as well?
Sorry for the noob question.
LmNutZ 11 months ago
@LmNutZ The answer to your 2nd & 3rd questions is yes.
Normally, the alternator charge wires , starter wires, and the mains from the relay box are home-run to the battery + right in the engine bay. When you move the battery to the trunk, you need to find a new way to connect the heavy-gauge starter wires, and the mains from the relay box. You want a separate circuit for the alternator because the voltage regulator wont "see" or charge the battery and instead will just power the car. Blame Ω.
Jafromobile 11 months ago
Why all the distributor blocks? Cant you just bolt up the battery wire from the rear to the original positive connection like factory? Or are you just doing it to make it look cleaner? I understand the breaker for the battery but that's it. kinda still a noob for relocating batteries.
silkrodd 1 year ago
@silkrodd Many people who have done that found their voltage regulator didn't see the battery at the end of a long thick wire and only produced enough voltage to run the car after it was started. By using the battery as a buffer between the alternator (with its own charge wire) and the electrical system, it charges. So the voltage sees the draw on the battery rather than the electrical system. The distributor blocks just make the same connections, only neater & easier with bigger wires.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
@silkrodd yea man that's what i thought to. hook a new wire from rear to old positive and bobs your uncle? probably add a fuse in between new join?
eak848 10 months ago
Flux and tin your cables befor soldering them into into the connectors. Takes about 10 seconds more, it will give you a much more durable of a connection, protects the inner core from oxidizeing over time, aswell as reduces the resistence at the point of connection.
Lokivoid 1 year ago
@Lokivoid I thought of that, but I didn't have any. I couldn't find it at Lowe's? I just used flux-core solder. Would that have at least helped? Seems to be okay so far...
Jafromobile 1 year ago
@Jafromobile
Odd for lowes not to sell flux, its normaly with the solder wire in the plumbing section, Some times it is just labled Rosin or tinning based on the application it was designed for (in this case "tinning" would be more suitable" but ether one would work). Its required for bleeding copper pipe thats why find it odd they did not have it in stock. As for cored solder, problem with the stuff is unless your using vary controled and limited heat the flux core boils out to fast.
Lokivoid 1 year ago
@Jafromobile
If you want to improve the job without redoing the connection, shrink tubeing the gap between the wire and rubber bushing will help keep moisture from reaching the untinned portions of the wire. Other then that i wouldnt worrie to much about it unless you start seeing green or white rust around the connection indicateing the copper is oxidizeing. or if the connection feels warm to the touch when drawing current (indicateing to much resistence)
Lokivoid 1 year ago
i havent done a battery relocation on my 1g yet, but i want to eventually. i have done some rewiring though. i didnt like the idea of having 2 8g wires for my main power wire that go from the battery to the relay box and from the relay box to the alt. so what i did was pull those and made my own from a solid 4g oxygen free wire. i even had just enough wire left to replace the ground the goes from the battery to the firewall. i have noticed a smoother rev. just my 2 cents
ThePumpkinKing1606 1 year ago
i admire your work...
WeAreTwoDoorsDown 1 year ago
dude ur good.
XxIMLDlxX 1 year ago
clean work
JuanPapaNicolao 2 years ago
obviously a highly skilled perfectionist
shrimpersdurango123 2 years ago
...or an arrogant know-it-all anal-retentive show off.
;)
...either way you must have watched my other videos. :D Thanks!
Jafromobile 2 years ago
that was awesome! someday ill learn to do that lol
MissB16a62g 2 years ago
Thanks Maah-aah-ah-aah-aaaan!
I had never relocated a battery before or ever used a solder joint connector prior to this, so I'm overjoyed I got it all right the first time. There seemed to be a lack of info regarding even what parts to use. The summit install kit is "complete", but doesn't contain everything. Apprehension created by the unknown, and misinformation on-line -ALMOST- prevented me from even getting the camera out to make this video.
I'm glad everybody likes it so much. :)
Jafromobile 2 years ago
man you have talent to do this works!!! felicidadez!!!
chichepareche 2 years ago
¡Muchas gracias a mi amigo!
Jafromobile 2 years ago
shit i got to do that to my colt
CHIPYCHIPYLOVE 2 years ago
Great vid as always. Im not planning on going smim anytime soon but its something to think about. Gotta love that Mac software. haha
jjrock5 2 years ago
I Did not know it was that much work to do this im glad i never tried .i thought you just put the battery in the trunk run a + - and that was it.
watchforfinger 2 years ago
Nah, you gotta do it so nothing asplodes. Gotta have a fuse or breaker within a foot of the battery, and the alternator needs a direct feed to the + separately from everything else. If you don't, the main can trip and the car will keep running off the alternator's power. I didn't install a cutoff switch, but that would be as easy as bolting it on + 1 wire to the main breaker. If I ever put a cage in it, I'll have to.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
Yeah, thats all I assumed you had to do also lol.
I really want my ecu, fuses and battery relocated to that back so my engine bay is only the engine and ample room to work with the block.
Clesarie 2 years ago
I know right? That thing's an eyesore. You would need to run a LOT of wires because that fuse panel is what ties the mains into every circuit in the car except the alternator and the starter. You'd need wires for every fused circuit run from the back to the front of the car. You might still even need to fuse some circuits on both ends.
You're better off finding somewhere to tuck it, but somewhere you can get to it because it needs to still be accessible.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
i had to do the same thing to my car but i also bought a honda sized batt and it fits in place of the old batt
NOKTURNALMB 2 years ago
That works for some. I thought about doing that. With my 3.5" GM MAF, it still wouldn't have fit, though. I had other factors that made me go this route.
I came to the conclusion after 2500 miles and 2 dead Optima Red Tops that they're junk and that I needed the CCA of a bigger battery that could handle a deep-cycle. I liked the idea of it not competing for space with other mods. Didn't know where else I could put my catch can with everything else already going on up front.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
man i love your vids keep up the good work
djdarkmunk 2 years ago