Glue-ins are standard practice in Australian sandstone, although 1 inch dia is a tad excessive.
It sounds as though you are unaware of the history of this video. Travelling Czech climbers, against local advice, bolted a 10 pitch route with half sleeve (friction fit) expansion bolts, in the manner of this video. This bad bolting sadly resulted in the subsequent death of an Australian lad. The Czech bolts have now been removed.
Interesting. You'd think that after bashing the bolt into the smaller hole, whether the rock was soft or otherwise wouldn't make any difference to how well it gripped ... provided the bolt was well designed ...
This has been flagged as spam show
That will not help you in a fall. You will die from it. I have my own way.
MsJojo540 1 year ago
can you do the same drilling w/ a 18v rotary hamer drill??
SymAmineC8H11N 1 year ago
wtf?
guys, go to Czech Republic or Germany and check out a proper way of building routes on sandstone :)
dogdogee 2 years ago
@dogdogee
Do you mean using half sleeve dyna bolts as shown, or glue-ins as they were told to use ?
sydneydoc 1 year ago
Comment removed
dogdogee 1 year ago
@sydneydoc
you have to use "sand stone bolts" with big diameter, like 1 inch !! and glue them
dogdogee 1 year ago
@dogdogee
Glue-ins are standard practice in Australian sandstone, although 1 inch dia is a tad excessive.
It sounds as though you are unaware of the history of this video. Travelling Czech climbers, against local advice, bolted a 10 pitch route with half sleeve (friction fit) expansion bolts, in the manner of this video. This bad bolting sadly resulted in the subsequent death of an Australian lad. The Czech bolts have now been removed.
sydneydoc 1 year ago
@sydneydoc
I have never heard about this story and I am sorry to hear about it!!
but i cannot take responsibility for "czech" climbers as you would probably not take for all "australians"
...to use bolts in soft sandstone is stupid, always use proper ways to built the pitches
dogdogee 1 year ago
@dogdogee
No one is asking you to take responsibility for anyone.
sydneydoc 1 year ago
Serious food for thought there, I wouldn't hang my laundry off that!
patchbobbins 2 years ago
I heard when they pulled the bolts from bunny bucket, that leaning back with a draw clipped to
their harness was enough to pull some straight
out of the wall. Thanks for posting this. Say's a lot
about modern epoxy.
CarbonPrey 2 years ago
isnt epoxy used more with softer rock?
davervr6 3 years ago
yeah it is
alex2041 2 years ago
Man that hurts to watch.
uctiger62 3 years ago
Was the smaller hole properly cleaned with a brush and blowing air, prior to inserting the bolt ?
It would be interesting to hear the manufacturer's claimed reason for the failure with the smaller dia. hole.
sydneydoc 3 years ago
Yes, both holes were cleaned with a brush and blower tube.
nmonteith 3 years ago
Interesting. You'd think that after bashing the bolt into the smaller hole, whether the rock was soft or otherwise wouldn't make any difference to how well it gripped ... provided the bolt was well designed ...
sydneydoc 3 years ago
Good job Neil - thanks for taking the time to test this.
ptmonks 3 years ago