Water Bases
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Added: 2 years ago
From: AGProductionsInc
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  • Re: the bubbles, that's usually the result of too energetic mixing of the 2 parts.

  • Maybe pour shallower pours...?

    

  • You might have better luck painting the underwater part a little on the way too vibrant side, or sealing it with a spray varnish before pouring the water effects. If you dislike the edges on the realistic water, maybe you could use the posable stuff from woodland scenics, around the edges, shape it up like waves or just a more natural edge, then fill with the still water, and ease any edges that appear with some more of the posable stuff?

  • You have to sand and reshape the resin as you like with a very fine grain and after it polish with an "electric hard cloth brush" and polish wax mixed, I do it like this for casting insects in resin blokcs and the result is dead clean and translucid!

    With this method you provably have to repaint the ground that is not covered with the resin because you make dust and erosion, and there sno way to protect it cuz is so small.

  • Its a reaper paladin? Also good method :D

  • put on a little at a time and layer it withoutthe tape

  • which water effect you were using exactly?

  • I have never used the terrain sceneics water effects, however I have used apoxies for water effects before. And it is not to expensive, and is easy to add color tint. I got my tutorials from Hirst arts, and I think using that and perhaps replacing your tape with like sculpy to prevent leaks. However I will admit that you have inspired me to try adding some water effects to my own miniatures. I may give that a try this coming weekend provided nothing comes up

  • dude a meniscus en de centre of the water surface not the climbing at the edge of the surface

  • whatever you paint on the bottom needs to be brighter than you think. works with most products or mix in some blue/green ink to the water effect.

  • what i use is clear silicone, It works pretty good so how i do it is paint the base and pres the silicone against the base for no overflow , then i let it dry for 2 to 3 dys

  • to get rid of the bubbles tap the table the base it is on

  • now to make it look like real watter is do one layer with coller on top than put more or the scenics watter over that

  • if u make a right angle barier out of card boad it will make a flatt even surfes

  • If you want to have the water colored you will have to add your pigment in the form of watered down paint to almost a wash. as for the lip goes you can either very carefully trim it but because of the nature of the product you will get a white film look on the edges. the other way is to take some more after it has cured a good bit but is still tacky and then brush it around the edges to build it up some and make the lip lest dramatic. you can even go so far as to blend it back toward the shore.

  • re: the air bubbles. try not to introduce air into your mix. i.e measure your parts and pour from one cup lip to the other, same goes for moving the mix from the cup to the base, do not pour onto the base from above, pour onto the base from the cup while the cup edge is touching the basr where you require the mix. For the edges add a release agent to the tape like maybe vaseline this may stop the lip forming.

  • to colour it paint it blue then put the stuff on.

  • and before you do that just put a little paint on it THEN put the glue over it again

  • for the lip you get at the paint just fill it up just a little the fill it up to the lip again and see what happens tell me if it works :D

  • have you tried vallejo water effects?

    is more like a gel that clears once its set.

    They also supply it in colours.

    Another way might be to build up the perimiter with the gel and then use the realistic water once it has set [thats currently what i am doing for a large river project]

  • Most viscous 'fills' do this, folk now use crystal resins (which you can colour with acrylic) and then sand them down with up to 2000 grit papers.

    Cheers.

    LCI

  • get Weldbond it dries clear and works well. You can add a little paint to give it color. Or try this make the edge with Weldbond and you fill in the area with realistic water from woodland senics

  • whats your army?

  • @legotyphoon223

    I don't play any of the wargames. For the most part, I just paint.

  • Comment removed

  • You can also use the stuff called Tacky Glue. It comes in various quantities most of the time in a brass colored bottle. VERY THICK, easy to spread with a brush, water soluble until dry.

  • i have a great thing to use! if you go to a craft store, theres somethign for glueing puzzles together called "modge-podge" its almost like glue but you paint it on its pretty thick and it dires in a watter effect! its great to use and will stick while drying so it wont move around or anything, highly sugges you use it!

  • use clear epoxy resin and put silicone lubricant on the surface of the edge that is forming a miniscus. a thin clear epoxy self levels and will not stick to lubricated surfaces. I have used this technique on the edges of dioramas and georamas with a lot of success.

  • a great thing ive learned is to use little amount of it.....build it up

  • how about cutting the meniscus, then paint over the white line with water effects?

  • I think it looks really nice. :D

  • What I suggest is to basically shape glass,then you could easily paint it,detail it,add ripples,rocks,plants you know the basic stuff. Then you could use green stuff to shape the sides of the river/pond. Finally add the terrain to the green stuff. Seems complicated but not at all I did this to my base of orcs.

  • @ste0240: The tape has nothing to do with it. All liquids form a meniscus regardless of the container.

    @WarGamingTerrain: Cutting the edge would leaves behind a 'white' edge, and doesn't look too good.

    The trick is to let the "realistic water" flow over the edge so that the meniscus forms off the base edge. Then shave off the extra (it'll leave behind a little white along the side but the surface should be fine).

  • your getting the lip because your using tape. Tape is both porous and sticky, which is why u should use plasticine or some othe type of putty, bubbles usually occur if you agitate the solution too much

  • Theres a guide in andreas faq book, they use plasticine to create the border and then use the andrea water effect the end result in the books really good,

  • Hey Bro maybe try terranscapes hes got AWESOME water:) I wish I could help but just not what I do:(

  • I think you should add a little blue, brown and green ink/wash to the water stuff.

    The "inside" of the river is merely a darker tone of the colour outside of the river and is less textured

  • hey dude try using gw water scenery crap

  • GE's water effects is the same shit as woodlands, but re-bottled, watered down and overpriced.

  • your right there brother

  • I don't know about the coloring problem, but as far a the lip goes, carefully taking a hobby knife and cutting the lip off might make it look a little better.

  • WELDBOND Glue works awesome. I use it all the time.

  • just build it up layers buddy.

  • This is from a terrain point of view Christopher, as I have only used this stuff on terrain, because it is unwield with miniatures, however, what I do is trim the tape level with where I want the water to sit, and fill it. SOMETIMES, it will sink a bit as it dries, in that case, it is a matter of filling it again, or, using a paint in gloss varnish that I can will the divet with. I hope this helps, wish I could post a vid for you, but alas, my camera is not wanting to work as of late.

  • I have never used realistic water, but have you tried filing away the meniscus with a hobby file?

  • very nice

  • depending if you want clear or muggy use the color paint you want where you want to put water

  • Before it dries, try to make ripples and indentations, then paint them over with white.

  • This is just a thought, but leaving off the tape, and performing a series of layers, adding color to each before placing the next, may get you the affect that you're looking for. Kamloopian has used the stuff I believe. Also leaving the tape off will keep that curve off, but will need cleening up and a little buffing. Also, layers should limit any bubbles at all. It'll be tedious though.

  • this is reallly cool. i saw this on jenova and i thin you emulated it very well

  • I would agree with IRONBLOODxMECHANIQUE.

    Make thinner layers and let it dry.

  • When I see a video called "shoutout to 40kXm@sTurk3y" I usually just go to the dude's channel instead of watching the shoutoutvid. If more people do so then that could explain the shortage on shoutoutvidviewers

  • When it comes to that real water stuff, for the Meniscus use a craft knife on in to carve it down.....thats what i have done, and as for bubbles........pour slowly....and do multiple pours....that worked for me and for color....its all in whats underneath, paint underneath what you want it to look at otherwise....Terranscapes! He uses this stuff all the time....he gave me some pointers

  • Hey Chris, if you haven't thought of it already, you might talk to terranscapes also here on you tube..He does primarily terrain but alot of it includes water and it's all masterful work...Hope that helps. Jim

  • try thinner layers over the course of a few days.

  • Comment removed

  • or try had a samll layer on the base you already did & try to smoth it out

  • don´t do it all at once

    layer it 1mm at a time

  • i havnt used the woodland scenics water but to fix the air bubbles, after you poor the water, pound on your table for about 3 minuts. dont do it to hard though

  • hey dude, i found out that the way u r supposed to use it is put it in an actual depresion area, not on flat areas, and you should use realistic water effects to get it better

  • wow i love them bases i want to make some to show of the models resl sets them of

  • i use glue!

  • how?

  • just get white glue and pure it on there!

  • Comment removed

  • I use gloss varnish mixed with paint...

    I haven't tried that product....

    But I see what your talking about....

    It still looks nice...even though it's not perfect...

    Best of luck!

  • Woodland scenics water effects isn't meant for miniatures, it is meant for terrain and the like, that's why it's not really working. What I suggest is making a pond in the center of the base, with your greenstuffed land areas surrounding it.

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