Added: 3 years ago
From: Lilkiwiguy87
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  • I have a nikon D40 and i really want a macro lens, i have been looking into it for awhile. Need more tips on which lens to pick.. please tell me!

  • There's only one tip we can offer: the shorter focal length, the smaller working space in between the subject and front of lens (i.e. 40mm DX, 60mm, and 85mm DX). The longer focal length, the bigger working space (i.e. 105mm VR and 200mm). The lens choice is entirely up to you.

  • I would like to buy a great macro lens for under $450 - $500.. Any idea?

    I have a Nikon D90.. =)

  • Either 40mm ƒ/2.8G AF-S DX or old 60mm ƒ/2.8D AF will do.  If you want to pay a little extra, new 60mm ƒ/2.8G AF-S. All are great but we don't know your description of "great", so, rent them out to see and decide for yourself.

  • Great tutorial!

  • i bought this 105VR few years back hoping i could capture details of tiny insects. just like others do with the reverse lens technique. problem is some insects keep on moving (hence no tripod). if they stop moving, strong wind will sway the leaves they're into so focusing is so hard. question is: they're killing the insects first, aren't they? they just won't admit it..

  • @rexpaix you can make continous shooting, some MUST come out the right way :)

  • nah, fps rate speed plays a very little role here. yeah, there are higher chances you'll get what you want but it won't be always in focus. the challenging part here is getting the insect in focus.

  • does the kit lens can do that?

  • Nope, most kit lenses don't get that close.

  • thats my lens :))

  • Hi, does the subject with magnification 1:1 appears bigger on the full frame sensor? science the sensor is bigger? or the subject should be the same size as it is in real life, but if cropped sensor is smaller than the object is going to appear bigger on the monitor screen!? sorry for confused question, I'm just trying to buy my first macro lens. Thanks.

  • No matter what sensor format your camera has, the subject will appear the same. It will look bigger on DX format because the sensor is 1.5X smaller and cropped compared to FX sensor. In other words, whatever sensor, the subject size will appear the same at 1:1.

  • why cover the viewfinder?

  • This question had been answered countless times, please search through the comments.

  • What lens are you using?

  • In this video, Nikon 60mm ƒ/2.8G AF-S ED-IF N Micro-Nikkor.

  • just curiosity why you remove the filter?

  • Like using a condom for protection.

  • really helped! thanks!

  • why do you cover the optical viewfinder?

  • Please take the time to read other comments because this question has been answered many times, thanks.

  • @Lilkiwiguy87 its a confusing concept, how light can travel "backwards", from the viewfinder to the sensor, but ill try it next time. btw, i plan on getting a macro lens, maybe the 105mm. one thing i dont understand is how do you focus the lens? do you "manually" focus by moving your camera towards/away from the subject? on some other macro lens, that ring is used to "magnify" the object. how does it work with this one?

  • This video will explain everything why you need to cover the viewfinder when your eye is away from it. youtube.com/watch?v=NjA5C3FkiR­8

    The answer is simply this: The magnification ratios are in the focusing range and the distance between the camera and your subject.

    You can just auto focus and move yourself closer to the subject or use a tripod and manual focus. That or set for 1:1 on the focusing and bring your subject up close.

    All Micro-Nikkors only have one ring that is for focusing.

  • what filter do you use to take away reflection of light on shiny objects? uv?

  • UV don't have any effect on digital sensors. The answer is a circular polarizer.

  • @Lilkiwiguy87 ok thank you

  • interesting

  • i think that you can make better pics of water drops with a normal lens than with a macro lens... for the rest of the instance pictures a macro lens are made for^^

  • Then explain to the viewers why you think a normal lens is better than a macro lens.

  • @Lilkiwiguy87 Can't really explain it! But i tried it with a macro lens and with a normal-zoom... and i got the better results by using the normal-zoom... cause i got "more" of the incident on the picutre... just try it out

  • Then explain "better results" and "more of the incident".

    FYI, Micro-Nikkors are designed for close-ups with extremely high magnification ratios (up to life-size, aka 1:1X magnification) which normal lenses do not. Yes, Micro-Nikkors to have very shallow depth of field but you can stop it down far enough or step back a little to get more depth of field (in other words, most of your subject will be in focus).

    Normal lenses have low magnification ratios and long minimum focus distance.

  • Awesome video..

  • Why do we need to cover the view finder?

  • To prevent light spray leaking onto your pictures.

  • hmm I've never tried any DSLR with Macro lens. But sorry for me asking the following:

    Won't I be able to take the same Picture as how you've taken with a Telephoto Lens... I can zoom right in to the subject and get that same large magnificaiton.. can't I?.. damn, I've been researching about lenses, I understand quite few things but I can't seem to understand Macro lenses much..

  • The answer is simply this, all non-macro lenses have different magnification ratios varying from around 1:9 to 1:3. Macro (closeup) lenses have extremely high magnification ratios varying from 1:2 to 1:1.

    At 1:1, it means the subject will appear exactly the same size on the sensor / film.

    Using a non-macro telephoto lens would force you to step further back, which isn't close-up. Macro telephoto lens (i.e. 105mm or 200mm) gives you more working space between the subject and camera.

  • Currently I'm using 60mm f2.8G ED macro lens. Want to ask will extension tube like kenko would help to magnify the subject (bugs) without losing major details. Thank you.

  • Unfortunately, the 60mm ƒ/2.8G AF-S ED-IF Micro-Nikkor will not function with a extension tube because the lens does not have aperture ring, which means you would have to do closeups wide open. Wide open at extreme magnification will result in razor-thin shallow depth of field. We would recommend you to just use the lens then do some tight cropping later via post processing to get similar equivalent to images coming from 60mm + extension tube combo.

  • for controlled conditions and the fact you are using a cable release why do you use iso 640? when iso 100 or 200 would be ideal?

  • This is a tutorial that gives you some ideas; doesn't mean you have to follow exactly as instructed. You can use lower sensitivities, no problem.

  • nice video.....

    but doest high iso cause noise? it is a huge issue to me......

  • Uhm, yes, higher ISO numbers equals to more noise but you only need to worry if you're making prints bigger than 11x14.

  • I don't get it...

    Can't these be achieved with a large zoom lens...or MOVING the camera as close to the subject as possible?

  • Because you cannot. Most lenses have a limited minimum working distance, for example, it is limited at 4 feet, you can not get any closer because 4 feet is the closest it could focus.

    Any Micro—Nikkors are designed for close—ups because of its short minimum focus distance.

  • my favorite things!

  • Interesting tutorial

  • Hi, thanks for this and all your videos, I'm a huge fan of you.

    I have a D90 (DX) and thinking of buying a Micro-Nikkor.

    I'm thinking of the 60mm NanoCrystal. That does 90mm on my camera...

    What do you think? Can I portrait bugs (like ants) with that one? I don't want to like see the eyes of flies and that, but just capture the small things...

    And what about lightening, is a SB600+micro softbox ok for amateur daylight portaiting?

  • Well, if you are rather interested in doing bug portraits, the 60mm ƒ/2.8's have too small working distance between the front lens and the subject (see how close the motorcycle is in this video; that is at 1:1X magnification). Also, the light from the SB-600 will be blocked because the lens is in the way.

    Look at longer lenses such as 105mm ƒ/2.8's / 200mm ƒ/4.0's and also R1C1 Close-Up Speedlight System. The SB-600 won't work well for close-ups because the lens will be blocking the light.

  • *continued*

    The photographs of bug's eyes are actually cropped from a full size photograph, isolating the bug alone apart from whole background of dead space. No lens can go that close.

    But for people portraits, any lenses will do just fine with the SB-600.

  • @Lilkiwiguy87 The canon mp-e 65 can get that close it can get to a 5:1 magnification which could take a photo of a bugs eyes depending on the size of the bug

  • Okay, that's cool, we guess?

  • Is the DOF the same @ 1: 1  on a 60mm, 105mm or a 150mm lens? Or is there a huge difference.

  • It's all the same.

    Do not get depth of field and bokeh mixed up; depth of field is the "sharp" zone, which is the same for all focal lengths at 1:1X magnification at the same aperture.

    Bokeh is the out of focus rendition; it is all different depending on aperture you are using, number of aperture blades, curved or straight blades, etc..

  • What is the difference doing a 1:1 with a 60, 85 or 120 mm micro lens? No difference?

  • The working distance between the subject and the front of the lens is different; shorter lenses have short distance while longer lenses have longer distance.

  • My lens has a magnification of 1:4. Can it be used for macro photography?

  • Not exactly, no. If you are photographing your subject at or close to the lens' minimum focus distance then you can crop it out into tighter space to get similar results as photographed at 1:1X magnification.

  • Why such high ISO?

  • ISO 640 isn't even high, try ISO 6400. This tutorial doesn't require you to follow every steps, just set your preferred ISO and voila.

  • why is the viewfinder cap?

  • To prevent unwanted "light spray" from entering the shutter chamber onto the sensor / film. Light spray looks like lens haze / flare across the image. Always cover the viewfinder if your eye will be away from it.

  • Covering viewfinder helps camera to calculate shutter speed correctly in Av mode (set F if in Tv mode). You may try to check it at home. Just turn on your camera w/o taking off the lens cap. Firstly close viewfinder form direct light. then open it. You will get nice difference. e.g. 30" vs 5". or something like that.

  • ok thanks

  • amm. does 1:1 mean that there is no minimum distance beetween lens and subject?

  • We are afraid not, no. 1:1 is the magnification ratio, it tells you how big the subject will appear on the sensor / film. At 1:1, the size of the subject will appear the same on the sensor / film. There are five Micro-Nikkor lenses in today's line-up, however, they all vary in minimum focus distance. The 60mm is very close while the 105mm gives more space, again, while the 200mm gives much more space without scaring the bugs away. All lenses have minimum focus distance limit, sorry.

  • ok, thanks.

  • currently I have a non DSLR camera with a +7 close up filter on it. I can get a pretty darn close image but I have to be almost exactly the right distance (about 20cm) . I'm looking to get a DSLR and a macro lens, but I want to make sure it is a powerful lens. How can I tell? Would I be able to get a macro lens for under $300 that would have 1:1 magnification? How powerful IS 1:1 compared to what I have ?(+7 Filter)

    Thanks!!

  • I recently discovered that I love to take close-up pictures of meaningless objects. Is this rare, or do many novice photobugs enjoy this?

  • Bugs love to be photographed, so, I would say it's just for fun.

  • i do that too!

  • Thanks, this has gone to my favorites!!!

  • now this is why youtube is soo great, awesome tute

    Cheers mate

  • hi you guys, do you know if is posible to lock the shutter if it isn't in focus in a d90 nikon? if so how can i? thanks

  • I'm sorry, I don't understand what you are trying to say, can you please be more specific?

  • ok i want the camera to shoot "only" when the picture is in focus, is this posible? thanks, PS: for the nikon D90 thanks again

  • No, sorry, it is only available in D300, D700, and D3-Series. You can focus the lens manually, stop the lens down to F/8 or F/11, and use a tripod to avoid out-of-focus images.

  • It is important to close the viewfinder when your eye is away from it to prevent "Light Spray" where light from the viewfinder can leak through the shutter mirror when it is raised up (while capturing the photograph), which could result in a little haze onto the images.

  • thanks (:

    i dont have a nikon, i have a fujifilm, still totally awesomme though.

  • Very Nice !!!

  • Excellent as always.

  • I really wanna macro lense. ;3;

  • nice video good music thankx

  • excellent tutorial

  • What cable release do toy use?

  • Nikon MC-36 Multifunction Remote Cord Cable.

  • Sweet, I went to go buy one but it was a 10 pin one and I have a D90 so I couldn't get one. So I just bought the MC-L3 instead.

  • ML-L3 Remote, you mean?

    It's a cute tiny remote... As long as you don't lose it. :)

  • haha, yeah my bad. xD

    yeah, so far it's pretty good.

  • thanks for a great video. i just found you guys and i'm so glad i did. i wish i had a digital camera but i will still try and experiment with the camera i got. anyways thanks for the vid.

  • video + tutorial + nikon + lilkiwi = PERFECT!

  • man, all the respect for the effort.....editing, shooting, sounds and text...great job

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