Thanks for the video upload. I am not an electrician, but you made it very clear about how you installed your system... just what I was looking for. I have already ordered the main interlock unit, and will be getting the other parts as soon as I can. Love the overhead emergency light as an added bonus... way to go.
@cars4me89 Yeah auto xfer is nice if you have the money. Key is to test the regularly and actually xfer the load. Sometimes the batteries and circuitry that carry load for few seconds during xfer can fail. I am lucky that I never see a drop of water in my basement even during heavy periods of rain. I would be more worried about freezing pipes if furnace didn't have juice.
Like cars4me89, I don't get a drop of water in my basement. I just installed my transfer switch two days ago. The thing was backordered since November 1st! The only two fears I would have would be losing everything in my fridge and basement freezer (probably have $800 worth of food in the freezer alone) and pipes bursting in the winter.
If I'm going to be out of town in the winter, I'd just give one of my neighbors the key and ask them to start everything up if we lost power.
Very good thanks, shows how to connect a generator for those of us that have some electrical savvy/knowledge. The interlock is much better/versatile/cheaper than a transfer swx.
I'd definitely say it's more versatile. But cheaper?
The hardware lock is itself $150 if I'm not mistaken. The power inlet box is $50. Then he got a separate watt meter. I'm guessing that's at least another $50 or so? Just looking at the cord he made, the male and female plugs together are $40 and $20. Assuming you get 25' of cord (although his is longer) at $2 a foot, you're talking $110 for the cord.
That's $360. I paid $399 for my 10 circuit transfer switch with power inlet, cord and built in watt meter. With interlock have to have an open double spot in your box. My box was full, so interlock wasn't an option for me. And you'll have to readjust your other breakers to get spots 2 and 4 free.
It's nice to be able to switch breakers on and off to power whatever you want, however, so that's definitely a benefit. But ten circuits powers the essentials and that's all I need in an outage.
Yes, but not ideal.You can use an oversized breaker there if you wanted since it is really only doing switching duty, the over current protection is provided by the breakers
Question ... If you wire in a Transfer Switch and use a double pole 30a breaker to power your 30a generator, can you then turn on a 40a or 50a double pole breaker in your panel (for something such as AC or Heat) if the total wattage used by those devices is below your generators max wattage output?
Not sure what sets you are looking at, but Generac has the largest portable made at 17.5kw. Its what I have and it has a 50amp and 30 amp twistlock. I only utilize the 50 amp and have it set up exactly like this. It runs the entire home i.e. 2 ton heat pump, all the lights, fridge and two burners on my stove all at once. If dryer (electric) is going to be used, I turn the heat pump off until cloths are dried. Note: under full load this genset burns about 16 gallons of gas in 8 hours
Thank you very much for the quick response. Last question. Do u think the 20 amp twist lock is enough to back feed CB panel to power up heat,light ,tv ,cable. All I am finding are generators that are 20 amp twistlock
@rakbar24 It comes down to that 'actual' maximum amps you will be using. You can test/measure this before you start the project. If you go with the 20 amp twistlock, be sure that you use only a 20amp breaker at the panel as well. (in other words, dont let the breaker rating exceed your wire & plug rating.) This should be fine, but you will have to be mindful of the load. (just run a few circuits at any one time)
Great video...Thank you very much. The generator I am buying is a 5000 watt husky from home depot. The twist lock plug is a 20 amp. Does that mean my outdoor box and should be a NEMA 14-20 and the back feed breaker should be a 20 amp?
@rakbar24 If I were you, I would examine the plug on the genset that you are buying. It should be stamped with with the NEMA rating. Just match whatever it is. If I were you, I would still go with the 30 amp breaker and the heavier gauge wire in case you upgrade the genset in the future. Also, the distance (length of wire) will affect performance, so the heaver wire will minimize the loss I believe. You could research it. Good luck.
I just went to H.D. and the electrician (I think he is) told me that's what I HAD to buy. Meanwhile, I was told by others I should go for the 30 Amp up until I get to the generator and just wire a 20amp twist on that. Again the H.D. guy stated that is not proper. If you get a solid answer on this let me know, gcinelli@msn.com. I have the same Husky and want to get this done before the next outage.
How did you address your Generator with the "neutral bonded to the frame" and your main panel also having the neutral bonded? Did you isolate the neutral yourself in your Generator? I have the same set up as you, but with a Generac and I can't get them to commit to providing documentation on how to properly isolate the neutral. I know it might be as a simple as a jumper, but I wanted to check with them first. Thanks
@Skellnuts This is a controversial topic. But what did is remove the jumper between neutral & ground inside the endcap. I then labeled the GenSet to say "ATTN: Floating Ground Do not use this Generator in stand-alone operation without bonding neutral to frame!!!". I only use this gen to feed my panel anyway. There is a good thread on this topic on Ridgd forum. Just google "Ridgid t36078-2". It should be first result. ( p.s. I also tested with Ohm meter before & after to be sure)
Thanks man, that's exactly what I planned to do. I have a family member with your generator and the same set up, I will check out the Ridgid info. Thanks again.
hey, good video. Where did you order the interlock kit from...i cant find it on square d's site. did u order it from a supply house or??? im looking for a homeline kit....farabovetheground@yahoo.com
Interlock officially installed as of today. Hit a few snags along the way. My genset has a 50a output so I needed to install a 50a backfeed breaker. Turns out my 200a panel was completely full - even using tandem (a/k/a piggyback breakers, a/k/a slimjim breakers), so I had to install a sub panel. Now all is good. Can power much of my house now.
What an awesome and informative video. thank you for making this. I just ordered a generator and want to this route for connecting it up. So as far as the Inter lock Kit, it looks like it only comes with really the bracket. It does not come with the circuit breaker. I have a Seimens 200amp box. My gererator will have a 30 Amp out. Can someone tell me what breaker I need to purchase? I don''t understand the 1 pole vs 2 pole. I think I know what cable I need to get to wire it in. Thanks
@harpoon70 You will need a 30 Amp double pole. (this simply means it is 220 or two phases) You can get the model# off your panel and go to electrical supply or HomeDepot. Sometimes there are specific options depending on panel. (for example homeline vs. QO)
One more question. My well pump circuit is a 220 40a in the 2 and 4 position right below the main breaker. That's obviously where I need to place the 50a backfeed breaker for the interlock. I think I can just move the well pump breaker to the bottom of the panel instead of shifting every breaker on that row down. I noticed your well pump breaker is at the bottom. Is that what you did?
I finished mine today. I put the Generator on and with both heat fan's on and all the lights computer and 2 TV's I was pulling just over 2,000 watts and both meters. I have no well pump and forced air heat. I'm very happy. Now I just need a quiet generator
@MrRichardyc - that is right. Not sure how important, but my panel has separate ground bus and neutral bus. So i took the white wire to the neutral bar, and bare copper to the ground bar.
Thank you. Great video. I've been dealing with this issue for a month trying to determine the best route. Two questions: 1. How did you use the amp clamp to ascertain the draw for each individual circut? did you shut off all other circuits? 2. On the watt meter, I'm not entirely clear on what you're attempting to balance. Is it that you want to balance the amp draw on the 2 rows of circuits? I'm going to need a 50a breaker b/c I'm using the generac 17.5 kw which has a 50a outlet.
@Stratstl - For the amp clamp; I turned on every electrical item & light I could think of for each circuit.
Then I turned off every circuit breaker. While standing at the panel, i clipped the amp clamp to one leg of a circuit and turned the breaker on. At that moment observe the peak draw. Peak hold feature is handy. I had to do microwave separate due to electronics where it does not turn back on after power removed. Repeat a few times for accuracy. Repeat for each circuit.
@Stratstl - My layman explanation- watt meter; the goal is to balance load across both phases (A & B). The phases are interspersed in your panel, and are in relation to neutral. A doublepole breaker is 220 so it uses both phases. However a single pole breaker is only on 1 of the 2 phases. You choose which phase its on. For single pole breaker positions, they would alternate in the panel going down left side with slot 1=a slot 2=b slot 3=a slot 4=b etc..etc.. Same with right side.
@Stratstl - Also- be careful on the 50 amps. That would require heavier gauge wire and different plugs. The wire might be 8 gauge, but not certain - would have to look it up. Man- that is a nice heavy genset! With something that large, you must have remote management options? (start & stop, etc)
@panchohughes, Yes, I think it's about the largest portable on the market. Weighs in at about 400 lbs, but has large wheels and is balanced so that it can be moved by one person fairly easily. I'm having the carb drilled out so that the genset can use propane, nat gas or gasoline. Plan on hooking it up to my 1000 gal propane tank. On the wire, I'm using 6/4 which is rated for 50a. I just ordered the interlock for my panel. This is much better for me than a transfer switch. Thanks again.
Very informative and you clearly are concerned about safety. Here in Connecticut we have recently had 2 storms that knocked most of the state out of days. Unfortunately we had several deaths due to Carbon Monoxide poison and bad generator hook ups. I will be bookmarking this video to return to as I assemble a system. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Thank you for making this video. I was going to buy a transfer switch but this is a better solution. Not an electrician but an electronic tech, I know the NEC code and I know there are alot of people out there that don't even bother with a transfer switch or interlock switch. Last power outage that last 1 week in the east coast, I am tired of taking wires off the breaker and feeding it into my generator. I am going to do it right and this is the way I am going. Thxs
Thanks for this very detailed and helpful video. I have recently purchased an emergency generator, but don't have the $1200 the power company wants to install their transfer switch. I like your approach, and the fact that you're concerned with the NEC (code). I'm going to look into doing this now and talk to my local electrical inspectors to be sure I'm doing things right. Can't wait to do it. Sounds strange, once set up, I will be so excited when the power goes out!
@BrianHoard LOL. I hear ya! I only wanted to lose power enough times to convince my wife that a genset was a good purchase. I got lucky because after I finished installing, we lost power about 5 times that summer! We woke up one saturday morning with no power, and 10 min later I was offering my wife a cup of hot coffee and toast. That was totally worth it!
Thanks for the Video. I watch it last week ordered the Kit and the meter. I put the interlock in, back feed breaker the wire cut the hole in the dry wall. I'm waithing for the outdoor outlet, and the meter to finish the job. Thank you again.
this setup is done in marine systems too where you use generator or shore power.. it's common enough many prefab distribution panels come stock with an interlock..
At 6:58 you remove the dead cover and show that the backfeed breaker has a protective plate that came with the interlock kit. What is the purpose of this plate? Why does one particular breaker need to be "held tight"?
@shephenkel It holds the relative position of that backfeed breaker and the main supply breaker in reference to one another. Normally, the main supply breaker is the only one that is secured by a bolt. All of the other breakers 'clip' or 'snap' into place. If the breaker clips are weak, the backfeed breaker might have some play. The securing plate ensures the position of the backfeed breaker relative to the main breaker. hope that answers your question. Thx
EXCELLENT job! With Irene having blown through and me worried about the sump pump (among other things) I bought a 5000 watt generator to power the fridge and sump pump. However... With winter closing in I would like to have heat and this setup will allow me to get the job done! We rarely lose power as our lines are underground all the way to the substation... But when we do... It's out for a while. I really like this setup and plan to do the same!
Nice job, I went with the Transfer switch mainly because I only have 100amp panel and I wasn't sure if I could get a interlock for my older Square-D panel. it was a great video and very informative. I like the Excel spread sheet, emergency light and the watt meter ideas for you interlock. I seen a few other hack jobs on YouTube, I'm surprised no one got hurt. Yours was one of the best, again very nice job and thank you for sharing
My panel is in a finished area. I have to open up the ceiling to run to feed. Also need to locate interlock for my seimens panel. Lowes sells a main/ interlock for the seimens. Have you heard about them at all?
The Excel spreadsheet is genius, on day 2 of a 4 day power outage , I installed a 6 circuit manual transfer switch off of a 6000W generator, the hardest part was figuring out how to balance load across the two phases. I used a Killawatt device plugged in for each appliance so I could figure out peak W and A, and then planned accordingly(you way much better! The interlock is great, but manual. To avoid floding & food going bad when not home, going with auto xfer and NG gen, every case is diff.
Thanks u for this video. I had almost purchased a transfer switch. My question is, since the backfeed breaker takes up #2 and 4 slots on the panel, what do I do with the existing circuits in those slots? Thanks!
@reigninginlife If you have any open positions in your panel, you can simply move the existing breaker to one of those positions. (paying mind to double pole vs. single pole). You will obviously need to move/re-route the wires to the new position. You may not have enough wire to reach. May need an electrician to do this for you. Also, if you are out of slots, you can buy the slimline (or tandem) breakers that are two-in-one. good luck.
One more question? Where did you get your kit and model # I found a interlocking kit but It's not a square d. I would like to buy the factory kit not an aftermarket one.
@PMedeiros1976 It is a 'normal' breaker (double-pole, 30 amp), but just referred to as the 'backfeed' breaker due to the purpose it's being used for. The position in the panel is important due to proximity to the mains.
If you're using the interlock and turn off the main CB to use the generator then how do you know when power is restored to the house so you can switch back (without talking to neighbors, etc.)?
@craigwh1000 - Google "Reliance Controls THP108". This is a nice and inexpensive device that will tell you when your power has been restored. I have one and it works great!
This is a great video. You can buy an Interlock Kit on line (google it) to fit about any panel and do just like he says. All the circuits will be powered but if your generator is not big enough, just turn off the breaker to say the AC or Water Heater but with the Interlock Kit, you will have power to your fridg, oil furnace,
I used my interlock and a 5K generator for 5 days during Irene. Not enough for central air, electric oven or clothers dryer, but could power 2 refrigerators, lighting, oil fired baseboard water heater, one of my electric stove tops etc.
On generator, you have to manage your power use but almost ALL could be used.
@yakyakyak69 Bingo! This is the exact advantage of the interlock that I liked- (the flexibility). A circuit that you may not feel important at the time you install a transfer switch.... may end up being a circuit that you need during an outage. (like for example your garage outlets, or say an typically unused upstairs bedroom. what if you have family staying with you). Thanks for the post yakyak.
@panchohughes Yep. Send power through the panel to everything and listen to the generator as you turn things on and off. It's amazing how quickly you learn!
Be ready to turn something off quickly if the generator begins to stall.
nice job, I knew what the Transfer switch was but never heard of the Interlock so it's good to know I have a choice... In my case the Interlock may be the best bet. Thanks again for the post!
Hi, First of all, your video is an outstanding information tool for people like me!!!
Like you I live in Maryland and have a Square D Load Center installed in my home. I am tired of ordering and returning the wrong Interlock Kits. Could you please reply with the ordering information for the one that you used???
@CoolPapaDude ---Thanks! I am glad you found it useful. I bought mine thru an online company called "Newark.com". My panel is a SquareD. The part number i needed was QOCGK2. Hope that helps you.
@khaki3411 -- Not an electrician. (but I did stay in a holiday inn express. Ha) Actually I have a neighbor who is an electrician. So I had him come over and check everything out for me. He also checked with state inspector for me to ensure interlock was legal in MD.
Great video Pancho! You motivated me to do the exact install on my Square D Home-line panel. I got the interlock kit and installed it myself. I have a question about the breaker plate or bracket that holds the breaker secure. The breaker I installed seemed very tight, no wiggle. Is it necessary that I install that plate? It's shown at the 7:00 minute mark in the video.
@LaneVines Great! They should have supplied you with that plate. I would go ahead and install it if i were you. Any reason why you wouldn't want to install it?
Well Done and helpful. Did the generator backfeed breaker come with the mounting plate? Seems these need to be a pair. I.E. Did it all come together in a kit with the breaker, breaker mounting plate, and sliding lock?
Also, you reference in the video that the kit needed to be manufactured by the same company that did the electrical box to be code compliant. Did I misunderstand and you can get the kit from a 3rd party?
@jnthnrbrts Thanks. The "backfeed" breaker is actually just a standard 30Amp double pole breaker. Mine was QO type breaker which are quite common. I had to buy it myself (home depot). The interlock kit came with a bracket that holds the breaker firmly in place (inside panel) as well as the plate that mounts to outside face of the cover. My understanding is that Maryland code dictates that the interlock must be mfg'd by same company. I have heard of folks fab'ing their own, but doubt legal.
Great video! I'm thinking about doing the same setup. The only thing I don't like is that you can't tell when the power returns like you can with a transfer switch. Any ideas on that?
@himmelfarb4 Actually they have this little device called powerback by Reliance controls. It is a little battery operated unit about the size of a deck of cards. It has a wire that simply wraps around your main feed line. when it detects voltage it will alert you.
this is true. i gues a determined idiot could do the same damage in a transfer switch! i started a job today for a guy who has a 24 kw generator, and wants some circuits on generator backup. i took your idea about the battery backup emergency pack! in fact someday i can see that being code to have those installed throughout the house. great idea.
nice work man. looks good. the only thing that scares me a/b not using a transfer switch is that theres a chance someone who is dumb (plenty of those in the world) to remove that interlock. if that generator runs while both those breakers are on, that will literally back-feed the high power lines outside. the current will be super low (b/c) the generator can't create that much current. but the voltage will be the same which could harm ppl working on the down power.
@pamansprewell33 - Yeah, but that would involve removing the deadcover from the panel. (which should not be done by anyone who doesn't know what they are doing) The interlock is permanently installed on the panel (bolted on) There is only so much you can do to protect the determined dummy. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks so much for your video, was ready to buy a 300 dollar transfer box, but because of you I found an interlock for my GE Powermark Gold for $39.00!!!!!!!
@tgvas Thanks! One thing that I did later which has worked well, is I printed detailed steps required to use the generator and posted them near the panel for my wife. She works from home, and this past year we lost power about 5 times! She got pretty good at it, and thanked me for the getting us the generator! :)
@abccda1 Thanks! I am glad you found it useful. I bought mine thru an online company called "Newark.com". My panel is a SquareD. The part number i needed was QOCGK2. Hope that helps.
@Vilmo003 The interlock may be legal with the electrical inspectors, but what about the power company? The interlock does not break the neutral. The power company I work for requires thr neutral to be isolated from the generator so that it does not back feed and kill a lineman.
@md101488 I am not an electrician, but I don't follow this comment. How can the neutral not being disconnected have any effect on the lines. Considering that inside the main panel, the neutral, and ground are bonded together. That would in theory keep the neutral that is leaving the house to the line at ground potential. I don't see the danger of not having the neutral disconnected in the circuit. But perhaps I am wrong.
@md101488 I think a lineman has far greater dangers presented to him than an unbroken neutral which is bonded to earth ground anyway. (like falling out of a cherry picker) I have a neighbor down the road that is a lineman for DelMarVa power. I think i will ask him his opinion on this. I have another neighbor who is a full time electrician for a Fortune500 company. I reviewed my setup with him and he found nothing wrong with it.
Thats a sexy wiring job, wish someone like you would clean my mess up...
mstory22 7 hours ago
you should insulate the neutral from the generator from the neutral of the utility it is important
al2207 6 days ago
Excellent video, Thankyou!!!
solidsignalz 1 week ago
Thanks for the video upload. I am not an electrician, but you made it very clear about how you installed your system... just what I was looking for. I have already ordered the main interlock unit, and will be getting the other parts as soon as I can. Love the overhead emergency light as an added bonus... way to go.
bofusontv 3 weeks ago
hope you're not out of town when you get a power outage and the basement floods. automatic transfer switches are worth the money and peace of mind.
cars4me89 1 month ago
@cars4me89 Yeah auto xfer is nice if you have the money. Key is to test the regularly and actually xfer the load. Sometimes the batteries and circuitry that carry load for few seconds during xfer can fail. I am lucky that I never see a drop of water in my basement even during heavy periods of rain. I would be more worried about freezing pipes if furnace didn't have juice.
panchohughes 1 month ago
@cars4me89
Like cars4me89, I don't get a drop of water in my basement. I just installed my transfer switch two days ago. The thing was backordered since November 1st! The only two fears I would have would be losing everything in my fridge and basement freezer (probably have $800 worth of food in the freezer alone) and pipes bursting in the winter.
If I'm going to be out of town in the winter, I'd just give one of my neighbors the key and ask them to start everything up if we lost power.
BigYellow9999 1 month ago
Neutral wires and ground wires on same bus, if this is a sub panel your will kill your self.
If main panel and ground rod install OK.
TriElectric 1 month ago
Very good thanks, shows how to connect a generator for those of us that have some electrical savvy/knowledge. The interlock is much better/versatile/cheaper than a transfer swx.
MrKevin010 1 month ago
@MrKevin010
I'd definitely say it's more versatile. But cheaper?
The hardware lock is itself $150 if I'm not mistaken. The power inlet box is $50. Then he got a separate watt meter. I'm guessing that's at least another $50 or so? Just looking at the cord he made, the male and female plugs together are $40 and $20. Assuming you get 25' of cord (although his is longer) at $2 a foot, you're talking $110 for the cord.
BigYellow9999 1 month ago
That's $360. I paid $399 for my 10 circuit transfer switch with power inlet, cord and built in watt meter. With interlock have to have an open double spot in your box. My box was full, so interlock wasn't an option for me. And you'll have to readjust your other breakers to get spots 2 and 4 free.
It's nice to be able to switch breakers on and off to power whatever you want, however, so that's definitely a benefit. But ten circuits powers the essentials and that's all I need in an outage.
BigYellow9999 1 month ago
Yes, but not ideal.You can use an oversized breaker there if you wanted since it is really only doing switching duty, the over current protection is provided by the breakers
on the generator itself.
racedad70 1 month ago
Question ... If you wire in a Transfer Switch and use a double pole 30a breaker to power your 30a generator, can you then turn on a 40a or 50a double pole breaker in your panel (for something such as AC or Heat) if the total wattage used by those devices is below your generators max wattage output?
TDoginNC 1 month ago
Interlock is very important to protect human and panel against electricity chock. Good illustration.
ATSSimply 1 month ago in playlist Transfer Switch
Your video is very informative. Can you please tell me where you got the watt meter? Thank you.
Joel25003 1 month ago
@Joel25003 Reliance Controls (Model MB75) Good luck!
panchohughes 1 month ago
@panchohughes thnx 4 your video bud
ROCKNTV1 1 month ago
rakbar24,
Not sure what sets you are looking at, but Generac has the largest portable made at 17.5kw. Its what I have and it has a 50amp and 30 amp twistlock. I only utilize the 50 amp and have it set up exactly like this. It runs the entire home i.e. 2 ton heat pump, all the lights, fridge and two burners on my stove all at once. If dryer (electric) is going to be used, I turn the heat pump off until cloths are dried. Note: under full load this genset burns about 16 gallons of gas in 8 hours
racedad70 2 months ago
Thank you very much for the quick response. Last question. Do u think the 20 amp twist lock is enough to back feed CB panel to power up heat,light ,tv ,cable. All I am finding are generators that are 20 amp twistlock
rakbar24 2 months ago
@rakbar24 It comes down to that 'actual' maximum amps you will be using. You can test/measure this before you start the project. If you go with the 20 amp twistlock, be sure that you use only a 20amp breaker at the panel as well. (in other words, dont let the breaker rating exceed your wire & plug rating.) This should be fine, but you will have to be mindful of the load. (just run a few circuits at any one time)
panchohughes 2 months ago
Great video...Thank you very much. The generator I am buying is a 5000 watt husky from home depot. The twist lock plug is a 20 amp. Does that mean my outdoor box and should be a NEMA 14-20 and the back feed breaker should be a 20 amp?
rakbar24 2 months ago
@rakbar24 If I were you, I would examine the plug on the genset that you are buying. It should be stamped with with the NEMA rating. Just match whatever it is. If I were you, I would still go with the 30 amp breaker and the heavier gauge wire in case you upgrade the genset in the future. Also, the distance (length of wire) will affect performance, so the heaver wire will minimize the loss I believe. You could research it. Good luck.
panchohughes 2 months ago
I just went to H.D. and the electrician (I think he is) told me that's what I HAD to buy. Meanwhile, I was told by others I should go for the 30 Amp up until I get to the generator and just wire a 20amp twist on that. Again the H.D. guy stated that is not proper. If you get a solid answer on this let me know, gcinelli@msn.com. I have the same Husky and want to get this done before the next outage.
GZIO8888 2 months ago
the transfer swith only allows you to use 6-10 breakers because of the amps u can use,,, with the interlock does is open the circuit for the neutral?
algu11 2 months ago
well done, man! great presentation too.
nlimchua 3 months ago
The emergency light w/ battery back up at the end gives this video 4 stars.
electricalron 3 months ago
What is the name of that watt meter that you installed. Who is the manufacturer?
KE1MP 3 months ago
@KE1MP Reliance Controls (Model MB75) Good luck!
panchohughes 2 months ago
@panchohughes
How did you address your Generator with the "neutral bonded to the frame" and your main panel also having the neutral bonded? Did you isolate the neutral yourself in your Generator? I have the same set up as you, but with a Generac and I can't get them to commit to providing documentation on how to properly isolate the neutral. I know it might be as a simple as a jumper, but I wanted to check with them first. Thanks
Skellnuts 2 months ago
@Skellnuts This is a controversial topic. But what did is remove the jumper between neutral & ground inside the endcap. I then labeled the GenSet to say "ATTN: Floating Ground Do not use this Generator in stand-alone operation without bonding neutral to frame!!!". I only use this gen to feed my panel anyway. There is a good thread on this topic on Ridgd forum. Just google "Ridgid t36078-2". It should be first result. ( p.s. I also tested with Ohm meter before & after to be sure)
panchohughes 2 months ago
@panchohughes
Thanks man, that's exactly what I planned to do. I have a family member with your generator and the same set up, I will check out the Ridgid info. Thanks again.
Skellnuts 2 months ago
GOOD VIDEO! If you plan on doing this without an electrician, at least watch this a few times.
KE1MP 3 months ago
hey, good video. Where did you order the interlock kit from...i cant find it on square d's site. did u order it from a supply house or??? im looking for a homeline kit....farabovetheground@yahoo.com
grungebum85 3 months ago
Interlock officially installed as of today. Hit a few snags along the way. My genset has a 50a output so I needed to install a 50a backfeed breaker. Turns out my 200a panel was completely full - even using tandem (a/k/a piggyback breakers, a/k/a slimjim breakers), so I had to install a sub panel. Now all is good. Can power much of my house now.
Stratstl 3 months ago
What an awesome and informative video. thank you for making this. I just ordered a generator and want to this route for connecting it up. So as far as the Inter lock Kit, it looks like it only comes with really the bracket. It does not come with the circuit breaker. I have a Seimens 200amp box. My gererator will have a 30 Amp out. Can someone tell me what breaker I need to purchase? I don''t understand the 1 pole vs 2 pole. I think I know what cable I need to get to wire it in. Thanks
harpoon70 3 months ago
@harpoon70 You will need a 30 Amp double pole. (this simply means it is 220 or two phases) You can get the model# off your panel and go to electrical supply or HomeDepot. Sometimes there are specific options depending on panel. (for example homeline vs. QO)
Good luck!
panchohughes 2 months ago
One more question. My well pump circuit is a 220 40a in the 2 and 4 position right below the main breaker. That's obviously where I need to place the 50a backfeed breaker for the interlock. I think I can just move the well pump breaker to the bottom of the panel instead of shifting every breaker on that row down. I noticed your well pump breaker is at the bottom. Is that what you did?
Stratstl 3 months ago
@Stratstl - Yes! That is exactly what i did. Good eye.
panchohughes 3 months ago
I finished mine today. I put the Generator on and with both heat fan's on and all the lights computer and 2 TV's I was pulling just over 2,000 watts and both meters. I have no well pump and forced air heat. I'm very happy. Now I just need a quiet generator
Dqalex 3 months ago
how are you wiring the 10gauge wire to the 30amp breaker? Red and black to one of the 2 poles, white and ground to the neutral bar inside the panel?
MrRichardyc 3 months ago
@MrRichardyc - that is right. Not sure how important, but my panel has separate ground bus and neutral bus. So i took the white wire to the neutral bar, and bare copper to the ground bar.
panchohughes 3 months ago
Thank you. Great video. I've been dealing with this issue for a month trying to determine the best route. Two questions: 1. How did you use the amp clamp to ascertain the draw for each individual circut? did you shut off all other circuits? 2. On the watt meter, I'm not entirely clear on what you're attempting to balance. Is it that you want to balance the amp draw on the 2 rows of circuits? I'm going to need a 50a breaker b/c I'm using the generac 17.5 kw which has a 50a outlet.
Stratstl 3 months ago
@Stratstl - For the amp clamp; I turned on every electrical item & light I could think of for each circuit.
Then I turned off every circuit breaker. While standing at the panel, i clipped the amp clamp to one leg of a circuit and turned the breaker on. At that moment observe the peak draw. Peak hold feature is handy. I had to do microwave separate due to electronics where it does not turn back on after power removed. Repeat a few times for accuracy. Repeat for each circuit.
panchohughes 3 months ago
@Stratstl - My layman explanation- watt meter; the goal is to balance load across both phases (A & B). The phases are interspersed in your panel, and are in relation to neutral. A doublepole breaker is 220 so it uses both phases. However a single pole breaker is only on 1 of the 2 phases. You choose which phase its on. For single pole breaker positions, they would alternate in the panel going down left side with slot 1=a slot 2=b slot 3=a slot 4=b etc..etc.. Same with right side.
panchohughes 3 months ago
@Stratstl - Also- be careful on the 50 amps. That would require heavier gauge wire and different plugs. The wire might be 8 gauge, but not certain - would have to look it up. Man- that is a nice heavy genset! With something that large, you must have remote management options? (start & stop, etc)
panchohughes 3 months ago
@panchohughes, Yes, I think it's about the largest portable on the market. Weighs in at about 400 lbs, but has large wheels and is balanced so that it can be moved by one person fairly easily. I'm having the carb drilled out so that the genset can use propane, nat gas or gasoline. Plan on hooking it up to my 1000 gal propane tank. On the wire, I'm using 6/4 which is rated for 50a. I just ordered the interlock for my panel. This is much better for me than a transfer switch. Thanks again.
Stratstl 3 months ago
Very informative and you clearly are concerned about safety. Here in Connecticut we have recently had 2 storms that knocked most of the state out of days. Unfortunately we had several deaths due to Carbon Monoxide poison and bad generator hook ups. I will be bookmarking this video to return to as I assemble a system. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
DwightDG 3 months ago
@DwightDG - Thanks for the comment! Good luck with your project.
panchohughes 3 months ago
Thank you for making this video. I was going to buy a transfer switch but this is a better solution. Not an electrician but an electronic tech, I know the NEC code and I know there are alot of people out there that don't even bother with a transfer switch or interlock switch. Last power outage that last 1 week in the east coast, I am tired of taking wires off the breaker and feeding it into my generator. I am going to do it right and this is the way I am going. Thxs
scottp104 3 months ago
Thanks for this very detailed and helpful video. I have recently purchased an emergency generator, but don't have the $1200 the power company wants to install their transfer switch. I like your approach, and the fact that you're concerned with the NEC (code). I'm going to look into doing this now and talk to my local electrical inspectors to be sure I'm doing things right. Can't wait to do it. Sounds strange, once set up, I will be so excited when the power goes out!
BrianHoard 4 months ago
@BrianHoard LOL. I hear ya! I only wanted to lose power enough times to convince my wife that a genset was a good purchase. I got lucky because after I finished installing, we lost power about 5 times that summer! We woke up one saturday morning with no power, and 10 min later I was offering my wife a cup of hot coffee and toast. That was totally worth it!
panchohughes 3 months ago 2
Thanks for posting this it was very helpful.
jjcolonjr1 4 months ago
Thanks for the Video. I watch it last week ordered the Kit and the meter. I put the interlock in, back feed breaker the wire cut the hole in the dry wall. I'm waithing for the outdoor outlet, and the meter to finish the job. Thank you again.
Dqalex 4 months ago
Nice post, tyvm for the info
stevenlamarco 4 months ago
Y do u need to try to match the 2 meters
Gman200108 4 months ago
this setup is done in marine systems too where you use generator or shore power.. it's common enough many prefab distribution panels come stock with an interlock..
MrMeanderthal 4 months ago
At 6:58 you remove the dead cover and show that the backfeed breaker has a protective plate that came with the interlock kit. What is the purpose of this plate? Why does one particular breaker need to be "held tight"?
shephenkel 4 months ago
@shephenkel It holds the relative position of that backfeed breaker and the main supply breaker in reference to one another. Normally, the main supply breaker is the only one that is secured by a bolt. All of the other breakers 'clip' or 'snap' into place. If the breaker clips are weak, the backfeed breaker might have some play. The securing plate ensures the position of the backfeed breaker relative to the main breaker. hope that answers your question. Thx
panchohughes 4 months ago
EXCELLENT job! With Irene having blown through and me worried about the sump pump (among other things) I bought a 5000 watt generator to power the fridge and sump pump. However... With winter closing in I would like to have heat and this setup will allow me to get the job done! We rarely lose power as our lines are underground all the way to the substation... But when we do... It's out for a while. I really like this setup and plan to do the same!
Thanks!
Klaatubarradanicktoh 5 months ago
Nice job, I went with the Transfer switch mainly because I only have 100amp panel and I wasn't sure if I could get a interlock for my older Square-D panel. it was a great video and very informative. I like the Excel spread sheet, emergency light and the watt meter ideas for you interlock. I seen a few other hack jobs on YouTube, I'm surprised no one got hurt. Yours was one of the best, again very nice job and thank you for sharing
fastdyna 5 months ago
Great video! Thanks for posting
74silver 5 months ago
The best I've seen. Thanks cuz!!!
I am in the process of doing the same thing
My panel is in a finished area. I have to open up the ceiling to run to feed. Also need to locate interlock for my seimens panel. Lowes sells a main/ interlock for the seimens. Have you heard about them at all?
Thanks again
coolrice85 5 months ago
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
sgthoskins 5 months ago
The Excel spreadsheet is genius, on day 2 of a 4 day power outage , I installed a 6 circuit manual transfer switch off of a 6000W generator, the hardest part was figuring out how to balance load across the two phases. I used a Killawatt device plugged in for each appliance so I could figure out peak W and A, and then planned accordingly(you way much better! The interlock is great, but manual. To avoid floding & food going bad when not home, going with auto xfer and NG gen, every case is diff.
craftyhack 5 months ago
Thanks u for this video. I had almost purchased a transfer switch. My question is, since the backfeed breaker takes up #2 and 4 slots on the panel, what do I do with the existing circuits in those slots? Thanks!
reigninginlife 5 months ago
@reigninginlife If you have any open positions in your panel, you can simply move the existing breaker to one of those positions. (paying mind to double pole vs. single pole). You will obviously need to move/re-route the wires to the new position. You may not have enough wire to reach. May need an electrician to do this for you. Also, if you are out of slots, you can buy the slimline (or tandem) breakers that are two-in-one. good luck.
panchohughes 5 months ago
I found mine on e-bay for $85 bucks. The part number is QOCGK2. If you google it you will find several suppliers.
racedad70 5 months ago
One more question? Where did you get your kit and model # I found a interlocking kit but It's not a square d. I would like to buy the factory kit not an aftermarket one.
PMedeiros1976 5 months ago
PMedeiros1976
Yes and no! The breaker being backfed is the one that is feeding the panel from the generator. You can turn off or on only the breakers needed.
racedad70 5 months ago
Are all breakers back feed breakers?
PMedeiros1976 5 months ago
@PMedeiros1976 It is a 'normal' breaker (double-pole, 30 amp), but just referred to as the 'backfeed' breaker due to the purpose it's being used for. The position in the panel is important due to proximity to the mains.
panchohughes 5 months ago
If you're using the interlock and turn off the main CB to use the generator then how do you know when power is restored to the house so you can switch back (without talking to neighbors, etc.)?
CWH
craigwh1000 5 months ago
@craigwh1000 - Google "Reliance Controls THP108". This is a nice and inexpensive device that will tell you when your power has been restored. I have one and it works great!
panchohughes 5 months ago
good video tu.
sal1964 5 months ago
This is a great video. You can buy an Interlock Kit on line (google it) to fit about any panel and do just like he says. All the circuits will be powered but if your generator is not big enough, just turn off the breaker to say the AC or Water Heater but with the Interlock Kit, you will have power to your fridg, oil furnace,
mrbillpowers100 5 months ago
Nice video. Thanks...
GoRaWa1 5 months ago
I used my interlock and a 5K generator for 5 days during Irene. Not enough for central air, electric oven or clothers dryer, but could power 2 refrigerators, lighting, oil fired baseboard water heater, one of my electric stove tops etc.
On generator, you have to manage your power use but almost ALL could be used.
yakyakyak69 5 months ago
@yakyakyak69 Bingo! This is the exact advantage of the interlock that I liked- (the flexibility). A circuit that you may not feel important at the time you install a transfer switch.... may end up being a circuit that you need during an outage. (like for example your garage outlets, or say an typically unused upstairs bedroom. what if you have family staying with you). Thanks for the post yakyak.
panchohughes 5 months ago
@panchohughes Yep. Send power through the panel to everything and listen to the generator as you turn things on and off. It's amazing how quickly you learn!
Be ready to turn something off quickly if the generator begins to stall.
yakyakyak69 5 months ago
WRONG...you are giving everyone the false impression that they can run their entire house on any size generator
we go to school for 4 years and have codes to follow so that someone doesn't get hurt or killed
belfast479 6 months ago
@belfast479 Your statement is not true. I give no such impression. The use of an interlock meets code requirements. Nothing unsafe about it.
panchohughes 6 months ago
@belfast479 5 Years for me!
ekhighvoltage 6 months ago
nice job, I knew what the Transfer switch was but never heard of the Interlock so it's good to know I have a choice... In my case the Interlock may be the best bet. Thanks again for the post!
fastdyna 6 months ago
August 13, 2011
Hi, First of all, your video is an outstanding information tool for people like me!!!
Like you I live in Maryland and have a Square D Load Center installed in my home. I am tired of ordering and returning the wrong Interlock Kits. Could you please reply with the ordering information for the one that you used???
Good on Ya!!!
Buddy
CoolPapaDude 6 months ago
@CoolPapaDude ---Thanks! I am glad you found it useful. I bought mine thru an online company called "Newark.com". My panel is a SquareD. The part number i needed was QOCGK2. Hope that helps you.
panchohughes 6 months ago
Pancho - Are you an electrician, or just a guy who did his homework?
khaki3411 6 months ago
@khaki3411 -- Not an electrician. (but I did stay in a holiday inn express. Ha) Actually I have a neighbor who is an electrician. So I had him come over and check everything out for me. He also checked with state inspector for me to ensure interlock was legal in MD.
panchohughes 6 months ago
I may go back and install it. I just didn't understand it's purpose other than to hold the break tight in the panel.
LaneVines 9 months ago
Great video Pancho! You motivated me to do the exact install on my Square D Home-line panel. I got the interlock kit and installed it myself. I have a question about the breaker plate or bracket that holds the breaker secure. The breaker I installed seemed very tight, no wiggle. Is it necessary that I install that plate? It's shown at the 7:00 minute mark in the video.
LaneVines 9 months ago
@LaneVines Great! They should have supplied you with that plate. I would go ahead and install it if i were you. Any reason why you wouldn't want to install it?
panchohughes 9 months ago
Well Done and helpful. Did the generator backfeed breaker come with the mounting plate? Seems these need to be a pair. I.E. Did it all come together in a kit with the breaker, breaker mounting plate, and sliding lock?
Also, you reference in the video that the kit needed to be manufactured by the same company that did the electrical box to be code compliant. Did I misunderstand and you can get the kit from a 3rd party?
jnthnrbrts 1 year ago
@jnthnrbrts Thanks. The "backfeed" breaker is actually just a standard 30Amp double pole breaker. Mine was QO type breaker which are quite common. I had to buy it myself (home depot). The interlock kit came with a bracket that holds the breaker firmly in place (inside panel) as well as the plate that mounts to outside face of the cover. My understanding is that Maryland code dictates that the interlock must be mfg'd by same company. I have heard of folks fab'ing their own, but doubt legal.
panchohughes 1 year ago
Great video!
dmacosta1 1 year ago
@dmacosta1 Thanks! Glad you liked it. Hope it was helpful.
panchohughes 1 year ago
that's a really cool interlock mechanism. i'm just used to the plastic jobs GE uses on the GEN panels we sell.
thompsonsub45 1 year ago
Great video! I'm thinking about doing the same setup. The only thing I don't like is that you can't tell when the power returns like you can with a transfer switch. Any ideas on that?
himmelfarb4 1 year ago
@himmelfarb4 Actually they have this little device called powerback by Reliance controls. It is a little battery operated unit about the size of a deck of cards. It has a wire that simply wraps around your main feed line. when it detects voltage it will alert you.
panchohughes 1 year ago
Nice set-up, but too compicated for my wife to use if I am not home.
Dave49399 1 year ago
Nice video. Well thought out.
earthwindwaterjunky 1 year ago
this is true. i gues a determined idiot could do the same damage in a transfer switch! i started a job today for a guy who has a 24 kw generator, and wants some circuits on generator backup. i took your idea about the battery backup emergency pack! in fact someday i can see that being code to have those installed throughout the house. great idea.
pamansprewell33 1 year ago
nice work man. looks good. the only thing that scares me a/b not using a transfer switch is that theres a chance someone who is dumb (plenty of those in the world) to remove that interlock. if that generator runs while both those breakers are on, that will literally back-feed the high power lines outside. the current will be super low (b/c) the generator can't create that much current. but the voltage will be the same which could harm ppl working on the down power.
pamansprewell33 1 year ago
@pamansprewell33 - Yeah, but that would involve removing the deadcover from the panel. (which should not be done by anyone who doesn't know what they are doing) The interlock is permanently installed on the panel (bolted on) There is only so much you can do to protect the determined dummy. Thanks for the comment.
panchohughes 1 year ago
you can get a transfer switch that supplies the whole house. it's just really expensive.
pamansprewell33 1 year ago
Thanks so much for your video, was ready to buy a 300 dollar transfer box, but because of you I found an interlock for my GE Powermark Gold for $39.00!!!!!!!
tgvas 1 year ago
@tgvas Thanks! One thing that I did later which has worked well, is I printed detailed steps required to use the generator and posted them near the panel for my wife. She works from home, and this past year we lost power about 5 times! She got pretty good at it, and thanked me for the getting us the generator! :)
panchohughes 1 year ago
great vid, nice clean install.
jeclone 1 year ago
This is a very helpful video, I did not know they made a interlock kit for that purpose, where did you get that from?
abccda1 1 year ago
@abccda1 Thanks! I am glad you found it useful. I bought mine thru an online company called "Newark.com". My panel is a SquareD. The part number i needed was QOCGK2. Hope that helps.
panchohughes 1 year ago
It is made by Reliance. Model MB75. Do a quick search on that and you will find it. Even Amazon sells it. Hope that helps!
panchohughes 1 year ago
Great video! where did you get your watt meter box?
Vilmo003 1 year ago
@Vilmo003 The interlock may be legal with the electrical inspectors, but what about the power company? The interlock does not break the neutral. The power company I work for requires thr neutral to be isolated from the generator so that it does not back feed and kill a lineman.
md101488 6 months ago
@md101488 I am not an electrician, but I don't follow this comment. How can the neutral not being disconnected have any effect on the lines. Considering that inside the main panel, the neutral, and ground are bonded together. That would in theory keep the neutral that is leaving the house to the line at ground potential. I don't see the danger of not having the neutral disconnected in the circuit. But perhaps I am wrong.
brysonjk82 5 months ago
@md101488 I think a lineman has far greater dangers presented to him than an unbroken neutral which is bonded to earth ground anyway. (like falling out of a cherry picker) I have a neighbor down the road that is a lineman for DelMarVa power. I think i will ask him his opinion on this. I have another neighbor who is a full time electrician for a Fortune500 company. I reviewed my setup with him and he found nothing wrong with it.
panchohughes 5 months ago
very helpful video, Im getting started on mine, thank you for the help. Im going with the interlock,
csolsten 1 year ago