my rcbs carbide sizer for ruger .45 single six is not letting all my reloads enter the cylinder. the last 1/4 inch or so must be tapped in with a plastic hammer. rcbs says to not take the shell holder within a nickel's depth of the rim which leaves quite a bit of the case unsized. ever had this problem?
@wp4866 Me personally, no, but I have mainly used LEE and Hornady dies. I couldn't recommend second guessing why RCBS has that particular instruction. It is curious.
@SPCkeith "... RCBS or redding ... thanks." - Both make good products but I have grown to prefer Hornady dies. I think I still have 1 set of RCBS dies in something I don't use, Redding in .270 (good dies but had a bad experience w/the company). I ended up sticking a die, they said if I mailed it in they'd fix it, I did, they did, and billed me. Never said anything about that ahead of time. I've had both RCBS and Hornady drop in the mail for me for free - needed very rarely w/either. - jmo.
It would be fair to point out that with the Lee turret loaders, the extra turrests are cheap enough you set up seperate turrets for each caliber and you don't have to worry about reseating the dies.
Also the Breech lock challenger uses quick disconnects you can put on each die set. again this is a set once and forget it method
As for metal quality, you can use RCBS dies in a lee press.
It would be fair to point out that with the Lee turret loaders, the extra turrests are cheap enough you set up seperate turrets for each caliber and you don't have to worry about reseating the dies. [end quote]
But then your dies are mounted and exposed (not safely tucked away in their cases). And how would you store the turrets w/dies protruding out top & bottom?
Also, I haven't priced a LEE turret but if it cost more than $7 or $12 a quality lock nut would be less expensive.
Also the Breech lock challenger uses quick disconnects you can put on each die set. again this is a set once and forget it method [end quote]
The Hornady Lock-N-Load single stage has a bushing system that allows a die to be set and quickly mounted/demounted in the press as well.
There are many ways to get the job done, a great deal is personal preference. I do use some LEE dies but have eBayed off most calibers, still have, I don't know 3 or 4 maybe.
I would like info to the Nut Lock used: From whom,Part No. and cost.I would like to change mine very good idea for repeating your section .. Thanks Dale
Youtube won't post any messages w/links in them but in my opinion there are at least 3 top choices 1) Hornady Shure-Loc & tied for 2nd place is Forster Cross Bolt & Lyman Split-Lock. I rank Hornady #1 because they put flat-spots for a tool to grip & the other 2 are knurled round.
You can Google them by brand & trade name and find some online retailers.
All are available in the typical 7/8" x 14 tread.
Typical prices at mail order shops will be $3.59 to 3.99 ea when buying singles.
I can't say with 100% knowledge but I suspect so. With rare execption (some special presses - the .50 BMG for example - too big), virtually all use the same standard threads (7/8"-14tpi).
You just need to verify your Dillion 650 Auto Prog accepts 7/8-14 dies. That would be my guess.
Thanks for this. I went with Lee dies because although I knew they're not fantastic quality, they're cheap for a beginner and in an emergency you can unlock the decapping pin rod and drive out a stuck case with it. I've already had to do that once. Takes five minutes. No sending dies back to the factory, and no unexpected bills!
As my shooting skill gets better, I agree, I'm going to want better dies. But these are good for a start.
I've only watched this first video of yours, but so far, I think you're spot on.
Lee makes fine products, but they're not as well made, precise, or durable as others out there. But the price is right.
Now if I can choose any brand of dies for everyday reloading, I'll take Redding. Their competition dies are just fantastic, and their competition pro dies run like clockwork in my Dillon.
Never used Forster's dies, but I've got their press.
I think the idea that Lee was thinking of that you are not, is the fact that with the lee lock ring, the die can still have some movement in the press for self centering /self alignment purposes, yet have enough tension that its adjustment doesn't change until you change it. Another reason Lee dies produce the highest quality ammo.
However generally accepted facts do not support those opinions.
First and most importantly movement in anyone's press results in lower quality products. It is in effect making "sloppy ammo". There are many reasons to hand load, perhaps accuracy of the firearm and ammo combination tops the list.
[IMO] Anyone's dies, presses, and combination thereof which allows movement in the dies, ram, shell holder, etc. is bad. Rock solid exacting repeatability is best. [IMHO]
My personal experience is the Lee locking ring will adequately secure the die in place for the sparse low quantity batches I typically run - IF I TORQUE THE DEVIL OUT OF THEM.
Further IME, where they fail miserably is in every other function of a locking ring. When I adjust, use, remove and pack away a set of dies with a real functioning locking rings; I can put them back in the press two years from now and they are where I left them.
Hornady isn't the only company making quality dies; but others often lock by screwing into the threads. Thread-locking has a higher risk of buggering up the threads than split-ring/squeeze type - agreed?
Consider straight walled cartridges like the 38spl/357, 44mag, 41mag... 500sw or in rifles 45-70, .458, 458lott - anything with a pre-seat flare and/or roll-crimp. These are CASE LENGTH DEPENDENT. SLOP now & BUGGERED TREADS later are not the best.
With regard to locking rings/nuts I perceive distinct differences among industry offerings and have given the reasons for these preferences.
I try to allow for other's opinions too. I do, I really do and I never want to be harsh with anyone. However I feel obligated to respond to misinformation when presented.
I hope this explanation is taken in the spirit offered.
I think Lee does extremely well at offering the absolute best bang for the buck. And some of their stuff is upgradable if you're willing to pay a little more. For example, the hornady lock rings. I think the Lee Classic Cast single stage press is the best single stage press you can buy. And the cheapest. And made in the USA.
That's not entirely true. A decapping pin for example, is best left with some movement available so that it can self align. Same goes for a bullet seating cone. I also think the tool steel used for Lee dies is just as good as any other mfg's. I'm not knocking your opinions though. I think it would be great if Lee shipped their dies with lock rings that have both the o-ring and an allen lock screw. Or at least offered them as an option to anyone willing to pay a little more.
Is there a cheaper press than the Lee Reloader Single Stage Press - it is like $25 w/a 2 year warranty. But today on MidwayUSA it only gets 4 stars out of 46 reviews.
Look at Lee Classic Cast Single Stage Press - same site $80. Cast iron w/a 2 year warranty.
But for $80 you can get an RCBS Partner Single Stage Press w/a lifetime warranty (it is aluminum).
If you are going to buy a single stage press why not buy a Lyman Crusher 2 Single Stage Press w/a lifetime warranty for $109 (cast iron)
If you don't reload much nor often, they'll work satisfactorily and it seems like like you save some money - until you think about having to buy nuts, then not so much. Purely on price before I really learned the product.
Now, I have covered the locking ring issue and there are even comments by others who have had the same problems but it just shows the true nature of Lee's business model. Lee is smart. I tip my hat to them. Lee owns the low-end market. Nobody touches their prices.
For you to understand why I grade Hornady nuts above all others you need to see them. Go to Midway USA's web site & do a search for LOCKING RING in RELOADING.
1) split-rings lock-on to the die by squeezing the die - Can't bugger the threads.
2) setscrew locking rings lock-on to the die by binding the die treads - brass setscrews less likely to damage treads but often break and don't hold as well as steel setscrews. Steel setscrews bugger the die threads.
3) LEE - They don't lock. They only sort of resist turning by the friction of the rubber O-ring. This means YOU MUST ADJUST BULLET SEATING and SIZING DIES EVERY TIME YOU USE A LEE DIE.
1) Nuts - have "flats" that with a tool, you an get a good grip on your die (to which it should be locked not "sort of"). On a single stage, a big wrench from the garage might do but on turret presses and auto-progressives you can be a little tight on space.
2) Rings - knurling improves grip a little but if you ever have to put a pair of Vice Grip (R), pipe wrench, or other "biting pliers", you bugger the outside of the nut.
Of all of my dies, the yellow cup LEEs are the only ones I have to grease with gun action grease after each and every use just to keep my fingerprints from rusting into the dies.
I know the rust is only cosmetic but it is a symptom (propensity to oxidize) alloy LEE uses. If you use LEE dies and store them in a damp garage or basement - I'll bet you found this out already.
Now outside - even if it grew 3 mils thick - not so much of a problem. But what is my solution inside the die?
I use 5W20 full synthetic motor oil (Castrol Syntec, etc.) for resizing lube. It's much better lube than any of the commercial lubes, and I've tried most of them. It's also $5 for a lifetime supply, it's easy to apply, easy to remove, and so little is needed it doesn't load up the tumbling media with case lube when the cases are tumble cleaned. Check it out:
I like the Lee dies. Great quality and value! I clean them to remove polishing grit when I first get them and then I immediately lube them to prevent rust. I will often polish the expander (decapping rod) using MicroMesh or Abralon. It takes less than a minute and puts a mirror finish on it. I NEVER use nickel plated brass for reloading. It chips and flakes when resized and can scratch dies. I do put the $3 Hornady locking rings on the Lee dies and use the Hornady die wrench to snug them.
Well it is opinion. I probably can do a Rockwell hardness test on the dies to further express why I have the opinion I do (that and their nutts bite). It isn't anything against Lee Precision - as you can see, I have several sets. They just aren't made of the came caliber (yes.. pun intended) as Hornady, RCBS, Redding, etc. Still, my Lees will likely outlast me! Dollar-for-dollar they are a deal.
Haha, thank you for explaining the dies. i'm new to reloading and i was using the decapper to seat the bullet :p
coolgun789 1 year ago
my rcbs carbide sizer for ruger .45 single six is not letting all my reloads enter the cylinder. the last 1/4 inch or so must be tapped in with a plastic hammer. rcbs says to not take the shell holder within a nickel's depth of the rim which leaves quite a bit of the case unsized. ever had this problem?
wp4866 1 year ago
@wp4866 Me personally, no, but I have mainly used LEE and Hornady dies. I couldn't recommend second guessing why RCBS has that particular instruction. It is curious.
rldel149 1 year ago
My lee dies have steel nuts.
fusionstar916 1 year ago
Im trying to decide if i want to get RCBS or redding for 30-06, 223, and 300 win mag. any advice/ guidance? thanks.
SPCkeith 1 year ago
@SPCkeith "... RCBS or redding ... thanks." - Both make good products but I have grown to prefer Hornady dies. I think I still have 1 set of RCBS dies in something I don't use, Redding in .270 (good dies but had a bad experience w/the company). I ended up sticking a die, they said if I mailed it in they'd fix it, I did, they did, and billed me. Never said anything about that ahead of time. I've had both RCBS and Hornady drop in the mail for me for free - needed very rarely w/either. - jmo.
rldel149 1 year ago
nice vid! THANKS!
rage801 1 year ago
damn i have a lot to learn...
importsstillsuck 2 years ago
It would be fair to point out that with the Lee turret loaders, the extra turrests are cheap enough you set up seperate turrets for each caliber and you don't have to worry about reseating the dies.
Also the Breech lock challenger uses quick disconnects you can put on each die set. again this is a set once and forget it method
As for metal quality, you can use RCBS dies in a lee press.
swdw973 2 years ago
swdw973
It would be fair to point out that with the Lee turret loaders, the extra turrests are cheap enough you set up seperate turrets for each caliber and you don't have to worry about reseating the dies. [end quote]
But then your dies are mounted and exposed (not safely tucked away in their cases). And how would you store the turrets w/dies protruding out top & bottom?
Also, I haven't priced a LEE turret but if it cost more than $7 or $12 a quality lock nut would be less expensive.
rldel149 2 years ago
swdw973
Also the Breech lock challenger uses quick disconnects you can put on each die set. again this is a set once and forget it method [end quote]
The Hornady Lock-N-Load single stage has a bushing system that allows a die to be set and quickly mounted/demounted in the press as well.
There are many ways to get the job done, a great deal is personal preference. I do use some LEE dies but have eBayed off most calibers, still have, I don't know 3 or 4 maybe.
Best of luck this season
rldel149 2 years ago
Get a plastic box of the correct size, just like you have for some of your other equipment.
3 hole turrets ar about $10 and 4 hole about $12
Also, I forgot to mention, you have some really great videos here.
Very informative and well done for home filming. keep up the good work!
Apologize for not saying that earlier.
swdw973 2 years ago
I would like info to the Nut Lock used: From whom,Part No. and cost.I would like to change mine very good idea for repeating your section .. Thanks Dale
WB8WOJ 2 years ago
Dale,
Youtube won't post any messages w/links in them but in my opinion there are at least 3 top choices 1) Hornady Shure-Loc & tied for 2nd place is Forster Cross Bolt & Lyman Split-Lock. I rank Hornady #1 because they put flat-spots for a tool to grip & the other 2 are knurled round.
You can Google them by brand & trade name and find some online retailers.
All are available in the typical 7/8" x 14 tread.
Typical prices at mail order shops will be $3.59 to 3.99 ea when buying singles.
rldel149 2 years ago
I have a Dillion 650 Auto Prog press can I use Hornady dies in this press?
rivemor 2 years ago
I can't say with 100% knowledge but I suspect so. With rare execption (some special presses - the .50 BMG for example - too big), virtually all use the same standard threads (7/8"-14tpi).
You just need to verify your Dillion 650 Auto Prog accepts 7/8-14 dies. That would be my guess.
rldel149 2 years ago
verey nice video im thinking of reloding and you just gave me a good tip of buying good stuff
hehehehe buy some nuts ive got two and
they are not for sale
2967575 2 years ago
Keep a good grasp on them -- they will be the only things that doesn't get taxed this year.
rldel149 2 years ago
thanx for the tip heheheheheh
2967575 2 years ago
Thanks for this. I went with Lee dies because although I knew they're not fantastic quality, they're cheap for a beginner and in an emergency you can unlock the decapping pin rod and drive out a stuck case with it. I've already had to do that once. Takes five minutes. No sending dies back to the factory, and no unexpected bills!
As my shooting skill gets better, I agree, I'm going to want better dies. But these are good for a start.
jsm666 2 years ago
Good post.
rldel149 2 years ago
I use the Lyman T-Mag press and RCBS FL Dies. I have never had an issue with either. Great quality imo.
idahochas 2 years ago
T-mag is a good press no doubt. I appreciate the visit.
rldel149 2 years ago
I've only watched this first video of yours, but so far, I think you're spot on.
Lee makes fine products, but they're not as well made, precise, or durable as others out there. But the price is right.
Now if I can choose any brand of dies for everyday reloading, I'll take Redding. Their competition dies are just fantastic, and their competition pro dies run like clockwork in my Dillon.
Never used Forster's dies, but I've got their press.
JByer323 2 years ago
Thanks for the comment!
rldel149 2 years ago
I think the idea that Lee was thinking of that you are not, is the fact that with the lee lock ring, the die can still have some movement in the press for self centering /self alignment purposes, yet have enough tension that its adjustment doesn't change until you change it. Another reason Lee dies produce the highest quality ammo.
RedDelPaPa 3 years ago
I thank you for your comment.
However generally accepted facts do not support those opinions.
First and most importantly movement in anyone's press results in lower quality products. It is in effect making "sloppy ammo". There are many reasons to hand load, perhaps accuracy of the firearm and ammo combination tops the list.
[IMO] Anyone's dies, presses, and combination thereof which allows movement in the dies, ram, shell holder, etc. is bad. Rock solid exacting repeatability is best. [IMHO]
rldel149 3 years ago
Secondly - locking ring/nut function:
My personal experience is the Lee locking ring will adequately secure the die in place for the sparse low quantity batches I typically run - IF I TORQUE THE DEVIL OUT OF THEM.
Further IME, where they fail miserably is in every other function of a locking ring. When I adjust, use, remove and pack away a set of dies with a real functioning locking rings; I can put them back in the press two years from now and they are where I left them.
rldel149 3 years ago
Secondly - locking ring/nut function (cont.)
Hornady isn't the only company making quality dies; but others often lock by screwing into the threads. Thread-locking has a higher risk of buggering up the threads than split-ring/squeeze type - agreed?
Consider straight walled cartridges like the 38spl/357, 44mag, 41mag... 500sw or in rifles 45-70, .458, 458lott - anything with a pre-seat flare and/or roll-crimp. These are CASE LENGTH DEPENDENT. SLOP now & BUGGERED TREADS later are not the best.
rldel149 3 years ago
With regard to locking rings/nuts I perceive distinct differences among industry offerings and have given the reasons for these preferences.
I try to allow for other's opinions too. I do, I really do and I never want to be harsh with anyone. However I feel obligated to respond to misinformation when presented.
I hope this explanation is taken in the spirit offered.
rldel149 3 years ago
I think Lee does extremely well at offering the absolute best bang for the buck. And some of their stuff is upgradable if you're willing to pay a little more. For example, the hornady lock rings. I think the Lee Classic Cast single stage press is the best single stage press you can buy. And the cheapest. And made in the USA.
RedDelPaPa 3 years ago
That's not entirely true. A decapping pin for example, is best left with some movement available so that it can self align. Same goes for a bullet seating cone. I also think the tool steel used for Lee dies is just as good as any other mfg's. I'm not knocking your opinions though. I think it would be great if Lee shipped their dies with lock rings that have both the o-ring and an allen lock screw. Or at least offered them as an option to anyone willing to pay a little more.
RedDelPaPa 3 years ago
Is there a cheaper press than the Lee Reloader Single Stage Press - it is like $25 w/a 2 year warranty. But today on MidwayUSA it only gets 4 stars out of 46 reviews.
Look at Lee Classic Cast Single Stage Press - same site $80. Cast iron w/a 2 year warranty.
But for $80 you can get an RCBS Partner Single Stage Press w/a lifetime warranty (it is aluminum).
If you are going to buy a single stage press why not buy a Lyman Crusher 2 Single Stage Press w/a lifetime warranty for $109 (cast iron)
rldel149 3 years ago
For the same $109 you could get a Redding Boss Single Stage Press - cast iron & carries a lifetime warranty. For $137 the Big Boss & $154 big Boss II.
For $120 Hornady makes a single-stage w/a quick-change feature - & a Lifetime Warranty.
I can go on and on. It is a personal choice on what to buy but look at something other than the front end dollar.
---
Decapper... no, you don't want it sloppy either. If you setup isn't sloppy, you can hit center every time. JMO
Thank you for your opinion.
rldel149 3 years ago
If you dont like lee dies why did you buy so many??
rcooper260 3 years ago
If you don't reload much nor often, they'll work satisfactorily and it seems like like you save some money - until you think about having to buy nuts, then not so much. Purely on price before I really learned the product.
Look at the example provided.
rldel149 3 years ago
Lets take the time to look at an example of my latest rifle's caliber - .458 Win Mag
LEE 22.99 + 3x 3.89 (HDY - any split will do 22.99 + 11.67 = 35.66 (Pacesetters + split rings)
Compare to quality die sets (all 3 die sets)
HORNADY - 39.99 Cust Grde New Dim - Split-nut
RCBS - 39.49 (Note: setscrew nut
REDDING - 43.49 (Note: setscrew nut
FORSTER - --.-- doesn't do big bore .375 max
Note all prices are Midway #31 published.
rldel149 3 years ago
Now, I have covered the locking ring issue and there are even comments by others who have had the same problems but it just shows the true nature of Lee's business model. Lee is smart. I tip my hat to them. Lee owns the low-end market. Nobody touches their prices.
For you to understand why I grade Hornady nuts above all others you need to see them. Go to Midway USA's web site & do a search for LOCKING RING in RELOADING.
(see list)
rldel149 3 years ago
LOCKING
1) split-rings lock-on to the die by squeezing the die - Can't bugger the threads.
2) setscrew locking rings lock-on to the die by binding the die treads - brass setscrews less likely to damage treads but often break and don't hold as well as steel setscrews. Steel setscrews bugger the die threads.
3) LEE - They don't lock. They only sort of resist turning by the friction of the rubber O-ring. This means YOU MUST ADJUST BULLET SEATING and SIZING DIES EVERY TIME YOU USE A LEE DIE.
rldel149 3 years ago
REMOVAL FROM PRESS
1) Nuts - have "flats" that with a tool, you an get a good grip on your die (to which it should be locked not "sort of"). On a single stage, a big wrench from the garage might do but on turret presses and auto-progressives you can be a little tight on space.
2) Rings - knurling improves grip a little but if you ever have to put a pair of Vice Grip (R), pipe wrench, or other "biting pliers", you bugger the outside of the nut.
rldel149 3 years ago
Of all of my dies, the yellow cup LEEs are the only ones I have to grease with gun action grease after each and every use just to keep my fingerprints from rusting into the dies.
I know the rust is only cosmetic but it is a symptom (propensity to oxidize) alloy LEE uses. If you use LEE dies and store them in a damp garage or basement - I'll bet you found this out already.
Now outside - even if it grew 3 mils thick - not so much of a problem. But what is my solution inside the die?
rldel149 3 years ago
Mine don't either when they are screwed down in the turret.
rldel149 3 years ago
I have been using Lee Dies for years and never had a lock ring move.
tharr2008 3 years ago
haha the last thing u said..
"you just buy somebody elses nut"
great stuff btw! im planning on loading my own rounds when i get my Rem 700 .308..
pingpong909 3 years ago
I use 5W20 full synthetic motor oil (Castrol Syntec, etc.) for resizing lube. It's much better lube than any of the commercial lubes, and I've tried most of them. It's also $5 for a lifetime supply, it's easy to apply, easy to remove, and so little is needed it doesn't load up the tumbling media with case lube when the cases are tumble cleaned. Check it out:
watch?v=THOL_S7Hngs
The case lube portion starts at 4:20.
Synthetic oil is also good oil for the ram and other reloading press parts.
Liberty4Ever 3 years ago
I like the Lee dies. Great quality and value! I clean them to remove polishing grit when I first get them and then I immediately lube them to prevent rust. I will often polish the expander (decapping rod) using MicroMesh or Abralon. It takes less than a minute and puts a mirror finish on it. I NEVER use nickel plated brass for reloading. It chips and flakes when resized and can scratch dies. I do put the $3 Hornady locking rings on the Lee dies and use the Hornady die wrench to snug them.
Liberty4Ever 3 years ago
Hi there. I had the same problem with lee dies. I use two nuts around the die this acts as a locking nut.
Works for me.
Good video
Foxsniper 3 years ago
Well it is opinion. I probably can do a Rockwell hardness test on the dies to further express why I have the opinion I do (that and their nutts bite). It isn't anything against Lee Precision - as you can see, I have several sets. They just aren't made of the came caliber (yes.. pun intended) as Hornady, RCBS, Redding, etc. Still, my Lees will likely outlast me! Dollar-for-dollar they are a deal.
rldel149 4 years ago
mostly good info, except for the comment about Lee dies not being good dies. I've got a set for 38special that has reloaded over 10,000 rounds.
tequenikal 4 years ago
I know a little more now, thanks for making this! i think Ill get Hornady die!
MSVLian 4 years ago
Thank you for going to the trouble of making this video for us shooters.
With the price of ammo, we will all have to learn how to reload!
Live414 4 years ago
Must see for noobs
pistoljock148 4 years ago
nice video.
dfxjedi 4 years ago