Great, as always. How do you decide where to put the in-gate and riser relative to the part? In this case, for example, you put the in-gate on an area of the part with a relatively small cross-section. Why?
@bx2200 Its best to feed the casting at the thickest part. This is what I did on this one. At 24:06 you can see where the ingate was. The riser was taken from the top of the casting in a place that will be machined. The Ingate is also in a part that will be machined so no clean up on the finished surface of the item.
I study your clips again with a lot plesure,Its really wel done job. My first procect wil be a smal crankcase of a smal model diesel engine. I only dont know,how to create a text on a for exampel crankcase. How do you do it in the proper way?
. On your lovely hit& miss engine you put also a name on the casting.It looks great....but how? Many thanks for al the great info, you share wth us!
@valic000 To create the letters on the casting you just need to add suitable letters to the pattern. I have a few proper plastic foundry letters and numbers but other forms can be used. I have used Dymotape and peal off self adhisive letters. If you look at the Part 8 video I cut out the letters from card. They must be filleted on the edges so there are no undercuts.
hello their myfordboy. i'm a mechanical engineering student, and just finished watching the entire 21 videos in a row. i've just realized that there is still so much to learn about casting, far more than i studied so far. you seemed to have mastered the alu sand casting process, and i'll keep checking youre channel for some other videos. keep up the good work, and dont let the love of casting die away from the world.
Very nice work... I've learned allot with your videos and downloaded them all just in case they disappear from youtube(you never know). I have one question; since you cast small engine parts do you think they need some heat treatment for them to last longer? In the case of an aluminum engine block “precipitation hardening” is used before machining. Tell me you thoughts about it and keep it up with your vids.
@negrisio9821 My engines have a cast iron cylinder lining and all the other moving parts run in bronze bushes so there is no wear on the aluminium castings.
Once again, about a hundred checks throughout the month for a new video reveals a gem. The core making videos are always a bonus besides normal pattern casting. We've seen you adding measured amounts of sand, linseed oil, flour and wallpaper paste for a core, but I'd love to know how you decide the amounts, or is it just experience? Do you always go for the same hard mix or do you just hazard a guess?
Thank you so much for your videos. I may film my own attempts soon!
Really good video! makes me want to build a furnace right this second! I'm not sure what projects i would cast, but that seems less important right now....
Since the mold came out clean even though the pattern didn't separate. Would it be possible to maybe have the pattern whole if you had a intricate part or were trying to use a part you had as a pattern?
@Arnthorg Its quite possible to do this. It takes longer to make up the mould though so is usualy used on a pattern where the parting line is not flat. I show how on vdeo number 3 in this series.
David these videos being so educational and you paying such attention to detail, it would be a pleasure to watch your workmanship in high definition. Any thoughts of filming in 1080P?
Another great video, I think I have found my new hobby for when I retire, and at this point it will take me the 26 years to learn it before I do retire!
Once again, very nice work and very enjoyable to watch! I learn something each time I watch one of your videos. I understand that it is time consuming process to capture, edit, and upload these, but they are all very appreciated. By looking over your shoulder while you work, a better understanding of the process is gained than can be had by reading a book. How often do you re-mull your sand and what do you add to it?
@myfordboy Hmm.. I thought it was an oil based sand and the black color came from burnt oil and that the oil would have to be replaced as it burnt out. It looks like it works very well.
I don't know much about machining, I have only watched a couple of introductory DVD's, but when I saw you cutting flat that protruding part at 16:20, you made me hold my breath!
I guess you know so well your lathe by now, that you can trust it to do this job!
(Referring to the physics involved in rotating offset masses.)
You seem to know what you are doing :P heheheh Very very very impressive. Cheers from Brazil
sprttch 1 day ago
i envy your tools as well
madaboutpix 3 days ago
you're the man, i applaud your skills!
madaboutpix 3 days ago
Every man's dream to do things like this.
TheRealGeriBoss 1 week ago
thousands of things would go wrong if i tried to do this.
you are very talented good sir.
Osmancique 1 week ago
very nice part. Good video.
gwheyduke 3 weeks ago
Another brilliant video - thanks for sharing. I have watched most if not all your videos and every time I learn something else.
TheElsyd 1 month ago
I want to be an engineeeeer, sooooo freakiiing baaaaad.
rEsonansDx 2 months ago
You are very skilled patient and precise. I like that, and I like these videos.
somorastik 2 months ago
Not a spark ignition engine?
Or you just havent mounted
the ignition components?
hot bulb, plug?
I saw the valve pocket,
it didn't look like it could be a diesel?
FireDropTechnologies 2 months ago
@FireDropTechnologies This engine has an ignitor ignition.
myfordboy 2 months ago
I like how you can hear the clock ticking in the back ground :)
robert1352 2 months ago
do i have to use crow ? :)
GhostLaughingMan 2 months ago
@GhostLaughingMan Wood pigeon works just as well.
myfordboy 2 months ago 2
Great, as always. How do you decide where to put the in-gate and riser relative to the part? In this case, for example, you put the in-gate on an area of the part with a relatively small cross-section. Why?
bx2200 2 months ago
@bx2200 Its best to feed the casting at the thickest part. This is what I did on this one. At 24:06 you can see where the ingate was. The riser was taken from the top of the casting in a place that will be machined. The Ingate is also in a part that will be machined so no clean up on the finished surface of the item.
myfordboy 2 months ago
Very interesting and informative, thanks for sharing.
freesailer 3 months ago
Very useful video. Thanks for sharing it with us.
MilanKarakas 3 months ago
I study your clips again with a lot plesure,Its really wel done job. My first procect wil be a smal crankcase of a smal model diesel engine. I only dont know,how to create a text on a for exampel crankcase. How do you do it in the proper way?
. On your lovely hit& miss engine you put also a name on the casting.It looks great....but how? Many thanks for al the great info, you share wth us!
Keep the good work going!
Kind regards Peter,Netherlands
valic000 3 months ago
@valic000 To create the letters on the casting you just need to add suitable letters to the pattern. I have a few proper plastic foundry letters and numbers but other forms can be used. I have used Dymotape and peal off self adhisive letters. If you look at the Part 8 video I cut out the letters from card. They must be filleted on the edges so there are no undercuts.
myfordboy 3 months ago
Don't use needles!!!!!! Small size scrwes its better.
telosfd 3 months ago
I would love to see a video on how to make the actual wooden box for the sand to go in. Anyone know of where to find such a video?
scottiblasto 4 months ago
You are a freaking genius !
shortfusedleathernk 5 months ago
@myfordboy hvat is the name of the black sand you use as the mould ??
marcuslb95 5 months ago
@marcuslb95 I don't have a trade name but its a water bonded greensand.
myfordboy 5 months ago
@myfordboy aha, thanks :)
marcuslb95 5 months ago
Mutt's nut's as usual keep it up nice workshop by the way.
caemaridwn 5 months ago
Completely fascinating to watch!
bladder1010 5 months ago
Pure visual gold as always, thanks for sharing.
smackbabie 9 months ago
hello their myfordboy. i'm a mechanical engineering student, and just finished watching the entire 21 videos in a row. i've just realized that there is still so much to learn about casting, far more than i studied so far. you seemed to have mastered the alu sand casting process, and i'll keep checking youre channel for some other videos. keep up the good work, and dont let the love of casting die away from the world.
hamech1 10 months ago
What brand/model of milling machine is that you are working on? thanx for your videos!
JKDangerfield 11 months ago
@JKDangerfield Its a Raglan
myfordboy 11 months ago
sir ur videos r awesome....
srikanth94 1 year ago
A lovely video, first class thanks for sharing. :)
barumman 1 year ago
Very nice work... I've learned allot with your videos and downloaded them all just in case they disappear from youtube(you never know). I have one question; since you cast small engine parts do you think they need some heat treatment for them to last longer? In the case of an aluminum engine block “precipitation hardening” is used before machining. Tell me you thoughts about it and keep it up with your vids.
erick
negrisio9821 1 year ago
@negrisio9821 My engines have a cast iron cylinder lining and all the other moving parts run in bronze bushes so there is no wear on the aluminium castings.
myfordboy 1 year ago
@negrisio9821 how do you download videos?
ryanburbridge 8 months ago
Once again, about a hundred checks throughout the month for a new video reveals a gem. The core making videos are always a bonus besides normal pattern casting. We've seen you adding measured amounts of sand, linseed oil, flour and wallpaper paste for a core, but I'd love to know how you decide the amounts, or is it just experience? Do you always go for the same hard mix or do you just hazard a guess?
Thank you so much for your videos. I may film my own attempts soon!
voidmansions 1 year ago
@voidmansions The reciepe for the baked core was one I read. The quantities worked so I have stuck with them.
I will be using the sodium silicate cores though for all future castings now I have mastered the method.
myfordboy 1 year ago
Really good video! makes me want to build a furnace right this second! I'm not sure what projects i would cast, but that seems less important right now....
ladedk 1 year ago
great work david, great work
FreestyleBrain 1 year ago
Since the mold came out clean even though the pattern didn't separate. Would it be possible to maybe have the pattern whole if you had a intricate part or were trying to use a part you had as a pattern?
Arnthorg 1 year ago
@Arnthorg Its quite possible to do this. It takes longer to make up the mould though so is usualy used on a pattern where the parting line is not flat. I show how on vdeo number 3 in this series.
myfordboy 1 year ago
24 minutes of entertainment. Great to watch. Thanks for posting
coriander2 1 year ago
David these videos being so educational and you paying such attention to detail, it would be a pleasure to watch your workmanship in high definition. Any thoughts of filming in 1080P?
RobRichmondRPG 1 year ago
@RobRichmondRPG You buying the camera?
myfordboy 1 year ago
@myfordboy I am thinking about it. But then again maybe we should get you your own TV show.
RobRichmondRPG 1 year ago
@RobRichmondRPG Myfordboy TV on Discovery channel, sounds good.
myfordboy 1 year ago
@myfordboy My camera was £130 from comet (Sony Bloggie MHS-CM5) and it does 1080 HD. Perhaps we could all chip in?
littlestworkshop 1 year ago
@littlestworkshop All donations greatfully accepted.
myfordboy 1 year ago
@myfordboy I'll put in £20, I've got more out of this than the books I've bought. Let me know how you want it sent.
littlestworkshop 1 year ago
I crinch when you break the flask, such nice work all ruined! ;)
Axbent 1 year ago
Beautiful piece!
Another great video, I think I have found my new hobby for when I retire, and at this point it will take me the 26 years to learn it before I do retire!
colonelodem 1 year ago
Once again, very nice work and very enjoyable to watch! I learn something each time I watch one of your videos. I understand that it is time consuming process to capture, edit, and upload these, but they are all very appreciated. By looking over your shoulder while you work, a better understanding of the process is gained than can be had by reading a book. How often do you re-mull your sand and what do you add to it?
Thanks again,
AL
apowellz 1 year ago
@apowellz Thanks for your comments. I have never mulled the sand. I just sieve it and add water.
myfordboy 1 year ago
@myfordboy Hmm.. I thought it was an oil based sand and the black color came from burnt oil and that the oil would have to be replaced as it burnt out. It looks like it works very well.
Thanks for the reply.
apowellz 1 year ago
I did, but the bicarbonated soda make porosity even biger.I gave up and do not degas but I know it isn't wright way.
mikruson 1 year ago
@mikruson I am not using bicarbonated soda, its sodium carbonate (washing soda)
I am now using losalt as a flux.
myfordboy 1 year ago
@myfordboy thank's a lot.I will try once more degas...
losalt consist 66% poatsium chloride and 33% sodium chloride ?
mikruson 1 year ago
@mikruson Correct. Maybe your metal is too hot too?
myfordboy 1 year ago
Perfect job myfordboy!
I use sand mould for casting,but I always have a porosity in my cast..How to avoid this?
mikruson 1 year ago
@mikruson Do you degas?
myfordboy 1 year ago
I don't know much about machining, I have only watched a couple of introductory DVD's, but when I saw you cutting flat that protruding part at 16:20, you made me hold my breath!
I guess you know so well your lathe by now, that you can trust it to do this job!
(Referring to the physics involved in rotating offset masses.)
gandreou 1 year ago
@gandreou I thumbed the video up, btw :D Thank you for your videos!
gandreou 1 year ago
Excellent work...most enjoyable!
francovance1 1 year ago