Added: 3 years ago
From: ZeroFossilFuel
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  • Really if you want to know a little trick install the Smack side ways instead of verticle! Possibly even more gas production! And no or fewer problems with foam or gas bubbles. A simple anology is like pouring a beer or a soda pop into a a glass that is tiltede verse one which is verticle which foams up quicker? The Mini Hyzor by Eagle Research is a strange upside down TEE with 3 inch PVC. And this guy from ER's stuff is never patented either and he is well versed in HHO or Browns gas to.

  • You can say what you will good or bad but at At least the Smack is a free design? How many other including the ones you pay for or give you a plan for some cheesy wire wrap design and don't provide any where near this type of gas production or out put. Really if somebody has or knows a way to electroplate the stainless plates with Zinc or silver.

  • Actually, when you get to my Jarboe Mill videos you'll see I have a whole new respect for the Smack design. It's actually pretty decent.

  • Uh, I just crawled out of a cave, I guess the concept of "HHO" is to release the hydrogen in the H2O bond? But then what do you do with all that hydrogen how does this get you better fuel economy? It's injected into the throttle via the air intake I would guess. Zero sounds like he knows what he's doing, but I haven't a clue what he's doing, even after all my electronic engineering from years ago that swimming in my head!

  • thanks god to create you...zero.........your video is helping humman and enjoy very much.

  • You sure the plastic wasnt melted by the hydrogen igniting rather than blown out? May have been blown out clean but I still think it will melt and fail during operation and should be replaced with a neoprene stopper. Either way works but after having an Oatey red test plug melt and droop I can imagine the plastic bag will melt easier. Nice test though, shows people how important that 30 cent tube and cap is with the plastic.

  • finich , buuum!!!

  • Hello zero, thanks for your great videos. I am struggling with to high amperage and heat.Using stainless plate 2 x 6 using 6 to 10spaced from 1/8" to 1/4" powered with a 10 amp battery charger. Using Lye for electrolite. We are getting like 30 amps and of course everything is getting way to hot. How do I maintain a usable supply of Ho without the heat? Thanks for your time. Bill Furner subscriber. Tell me how to send a dontation. Sincerly, Bill

  • For answers to your question visit my website

    zerofossilfuel*googlepages*com­/index*html

    To donate click the paypal link from that same web site.

    Thanks for watching!

  • The science for this states you can't get more energy out than you put in. But your putting in electrical energy in and getting out chemical energy, then exchanging it for mechanical energy at combustion. You're essentially providing a small amount of fuel and oxidizer for combustion. You might see 10% increase in gas mileage or so, but I can't see that you'd get much more than that. Thats about the difference in running your air conditioner. Free AC, anyone?

  • Please visit the mythbusters website section where they discuss episodes and read the thread that discusses hho. I've been trying to convince them their "test" on the episode was crappy at best and we really need someone with some engineering know how to comment and give some hope to the thread. Anyone there with hope in the area of hho usage is being trampled upon. Btw, great informative videos!

  • I saw the episode in question. Grant is a smart guy but ddoesn't know Jack about making HHO.

    Just go there and tell them to come here and watch MY VSPB playlist. I challenge them ta a televised bakeoff, if they dare. There's a contest I'd be happy to lose.

  • those guys, Fudged the results. because their producers care more about ratings then science

  • They did it all wrong, they had almost no production and were trying to run the car totally on HHO rather than supplemental. They spent more time banging stainless than researching before they tried it, and used some hokey plan they bought on the internet. Doubt they had any electrolyte either.

  • Zero, with your pressure relief membrane in place, how does it hold up when the engine is running & a vacuum is present in the canister? It would seem to me that the membrane would get sucked into the canister.

    Thank you.

  • Not sending to the vacuum side of the intake. It's ahead of the plenum butterfly. Works GREAT!

  • I sent you an email with part numbers for a solenoid valve. and where I found one.

  • Just arived home from the GAS PUMP $99 for 24 Gallons of good old fuel... Please help me with the specs on this cell soon so I can start saving money for this research.. I love you cell Great work!!

  • A Studer valve may be of use.

  • Yes.

    use another valve in reverse, so the cell will suck air through it.

  • I put the cell in the Toyota today and ran it. There's one big problem with swimmers. They need dead air space above the fluid level. On cool down the gases contract and pull a vacuum. That vacuum sucks fluid form the bubbler like a drinking straw. Need to find a normally open solenoid valve with a 12v coil somewhere so that on shut down the cell is vented to atm.

    Anyone got any ideas where I can salvage such a device?

  • Old dead sump pump?

    Junkyard with a high concentration of dead appliances like dishwashers?

    Local Hardware store that's being put out of business by some chain store?

    You're guess is 3x better than mine.

  • Or maybe mount the bubbler next to the cell and put an additional tube at the bottom connecting the two. That way, when the system goes to rest, the fluid levels out between the two tanks.

    In this way, the bubbler becomes flashback protection, bubbler, site glass, and fill tank all in one.

    Surely the efficiency of that system would appeal to a practical engineer such as yourself? ;)

  • Very good idea!

  • Can't take the credit. Got the idea from Sid Young's 'Mr. Bubble'. ;)

    I also wondered if it wouldn't tame the foam a bit if you attached a nylon screen to the end of the snorkle tube feeding the bubbler. Another screen on the return tube to the cell might prevent larger pieces of debris introduced while refilling the bubbler from circulating back through and possibly shorting out plates in the cell.

  • Hmmm...actually, I'm going to take you up on your invitation via pgp and give you some details including a diagram.

    I'm thinking now beyond experimental to operational requirements, and I'll be working out the details of a 2 stage bubbler assembly.

  • 12volt solenoid valves are hard to find salvage. You might use a PCV valve turned in reverse so that it opens on vacuum instead of pressure. I know that Grainger carrys new ones.

    DAB

  • Excellent! Keep up the good work!

  • ah i have a question, how do you compute the amount of fuel that goes tru the engine cylinder? and how much HHO gas needed to be ignite properly?

  • I like your work and have found it very scientific in its approach. I am curious about a couple of things though... Would an aluminium cathode work better? To your knowledge or from your experimentation are you able to deduce a correlation between HHO production and voltage. Also what are your findings on HHO/voltage/molarity? Nice work - keep it up!!!

  • I have covered all of this.

  • good job zero safety first

  • AWESOME! This gets rid of the bubbler....

  • NO IT DOES NOT!!! The bubbler is still neccesssary to filter out any electrolyte that may be exhausted by the cell to prevent it from getting to the intake manifold.

  • Maybe there is some way to make some kind of containment cap on the top of the Hydrogen Generator that can contain the plastic bag.

  • Or thicker plastic might work too.. ONly problem with a unglued cap as the blow out would be that the cap itself would become a missle I suppose. ehhe.. but it wouldnt blow out the whole cell.

    And if under a hood and the cap blew, it would probably be harmless for the most part, but not so good if your looking over the top of it! lol

  • I like the blowout mechanism, however wondering how durable that thin plastic barrier will be when the cell heats up to almost boiling, (as it probably will over long run times)

    its possible it will melt that plastic and weaken it. and opening it...then you pumping HHO into the air.

    Another option for the blow out might be to just SNUG a regular PVC cap over that PVC nipple. Its amazing how snug you can get fittings WITHOUT GLUE.

    And when and if it blows, will only blow that cap off.

  • I suggest you build one and see.

  • what are the plate size and thickness. from what I can figure 16 gauge 316 stainless 3 x 7 ???

  • look for the videos earlier in the series, there are dimm's called out on those... and the gauge of the plates on this cell are 316l. the earlier cell had 304 I think.

  • Cool Z thx.

  • Thanks everyone for your comments. Sid Young gets all the credit for this one. I only show it working.

  • Awesome work man!

  • very cool nice to see that the blowout safety works . Keep up the great work

  • Great to see the safety cap works, but I would've recommended a better "blast shield." No sense in flirting with a few days on the couch, as well as a new paint job. <;-)

  • LOL.

  • that`s a nice, effective and cheap safety feature!!

  • I was thinking that maybe intead of your disc theory, that maybe it was melted when the explosion happened. I think this because ever bit of that gas was ignited instantly and focused out that little hole. I guess it doesnt really matter now that i think more about it, but i have already typed so ill post anyway!

  • If you watch the video closely you can see the disk floating to the ground in front. I did recover it. It did get taken out cleanly.

  • NICE!!!!

    I'll do this too on my cell!

    Thanks for sharing.

  • excellent demonstration of what should be key safety gadget on every one of these things that anyone builds ...

    bravo !!!  another very high quality presentation ...

  • Glad to see that you're taking safety seriously. Some testers seem to fail to realise the danger of playing with H2. Nice solution.

  • 5* ZFF when do you anticipate your first test drive in your vehicle?

  • This week!

  • awsome test! hey can anyone tell me about the thickness of the plates (electrode)? I've read that a thinner plate is better to reduce current density. I would think that you would want a relitively high density - and would'nt thinner plates increase resistance (bad thing)?

  • Go as thick as practical. Stainless doesn't conduct very well. I discovered with the cell stack out for inspection that the small bolt heating I am getting is coming from current passing through the 1/2" wide straps leading from the bolts to the plate brick. I never thought it was such a poor conductor until I saw that.

  • Wow I didn't think that either. I guess it might be an advantage to plate the stainless with something more conductive like gold or rhodium - at a substantial increase in cost I'm sure (especialy at over $900.00/oz. Man I wish we were still on the gold standard :))! Maybe a stainless with a higher nickel content... although I don't think nickel has good corrosion resistance. I'll dig for some info on that.

  • or is it coming from the bolts itself? I have had issues like that bolts getting hot, I am leaning to the BOLTS being the problem vs the plates..why?

    I have found One way to test this is to connect the battery to the cell using CLIPS right on the SS straps bypassing the bolts.. If memory served me the heat dropped dramatically on the clips/connectors and the wire lines.

    just my 2cts.. Not sure about this completely but thats much hunch right now

  • i think you might have discovered a good sub for tnt, there Zero. Hey...my cell doesn't spark with baking soda in it, and then with it, the leads always spark when i connect? I guess it's connecting via the electrolite? IS that good or bad?

  • I have a question, using a one way valve is not a save way to eliminate the back fire problem?

  • No. The only safe way to keep a flashback from getting all the way back to the cell is with a bubbler/drier as I show how to build in some earlier videos.

  • Yeah I know about the bubbler, but I was thinking a one way valve could do something useful.

    I found cheap one way valve for PCV valve, in fact they are for my new civic (old in fact :)), but since its only 3.5$, I was thinking to use it for my cell in the following weeks.

  • I'll repeat what Z said, NO.

    You cannot trust one way check valves for flashback.

  • I totally agree that check valves can't be trusted. I did some experiments with check valves and thought that I had one that would work. It seems that the volume of gas going through the valve slows it down. It worked with samll amounts of volume, but failed with high volumes.

    DAB

  • I have found very good use for check valves, particularly as vacuum relief on bubblers and other such things ... but I would never trust one to stop a flash back ... the flame front moves too fast ... fine bronze wool when wet seems to do a fair job but I still use a bubbler ... safety first and last ...

  • That is a darn good test of the safety mechanism. You should feel pretty safe around the bench knowing that cell is not going to blow up in your face.

  • No but is still could make me deaf. ;-)

  • You could always add a spark suppressing muffler.

  • wow that blowout system is a very clever idea. you are one smart hombre

  • Can't take the credit. Got the idea for this from Sid Young.

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