Power-Save 1200 - Power-Save 3400

[calvinblinkee]

When is the Power Save OVER NINE THOUSAND coming out?

[valllhalla]

instead of sending the reactive power created by the motor you store it in the cap and sending it back and forth from cap and motor. correct?

[joerond]

well have you noticed any changes on your bill by this time ?? 3 yrs later danos un update pues Yo quiero buscar nuevas options to save energy. DIY solar panels very soon .

[Daytrippster]

Great Question!

"Kvar" is not only the designation for wasted power due to the charging and discharging of inductive fields during the work process, but the name of the original company to optimize power factor~ "Kvar Energy savings"~

After optimization,, you use energy more efficiently!

KWH I explained in my last comment~

Thanks for a thoughtful question~

[Daytrippster]

Well, Even Funnier!

Kvar has spent the "Half a lifetime" designing, building, and distributing Patented power optimization devices~

For those that don't get it, KWH is "KiloWattHours"~

That's Volts * Amps * power factor * hours

Simple, right?

Change the power factor, change the current draw, change the bill~

Tuning a tank circuit to use less Juice means a smaller bill~ Especially in the desert where HVAC runs all the time~

If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to educate you further~

[afdhalatifftan92]

With the risk of sounding dumb, could you please kindly explain what's the difference between KWH and KVAR??

Thanks!!

[billhunterskeptic]

@afdhalatifftan92

KVARs are the reactive or inductive power load. You can think of this as energy that bounces back and forth between the motor and the power company. The power company will not change you for VARs (as a residential customer). KWH is work done over a period of time. KWH is what you pay the power company for and what your meter registers. This product reduces the free VARs, but has negligible effect on the costly KWHs.

[billhunterskeptic]

@Daytrippster

Except they increased the power factor and decreased the current draw. Net gain is zero. No change in real watts was achieved, only reduction in VARs. Power company does not charge for VARs, so no change in the bill. This is a scam.

[Daytrippster]

I think it's funny so many people that have never used one of these think they can pencil whip the math out of it, when obviously they don't get it~ Less current is more better~ Raising the power factor to unity and dropping the current is more efficient~ Seems simple, but true~ Why wouldn't you believe NASA or a University that did a study of this, when they do get it, and some folks don't? You don't have to have one, but Smarter people get it, and save money on power~

[billhunterskeptic]

@Daytrippster

In case you have not figured it out, you don't get charged for current, you get charged for power. Reducing the current only eliminates a small resistive loss in the wires which is negligible compared to the real power an AC takes. You could achieve the same effect with a capacitor for a lot less cost.

[saveyourhome72]

IF this device wasn't working, why is Coca Cola using it, and why would it be CSA certified? It is also UL and SA and RoHS certified as well. It has also been used and tested as NASA. IF you run a business that uses alot of motors, then I think this device could save good money and in this economy, we all need that.

[gottagobideo]

your an idiot. coca cola has an industrial plant , duh. Houses use KW/h not KVAR. This is only good for industrial plants that are metered for KVAR.

[billhunterskeptic]

@saveyourhome72

RoHS only means the device contains no lead.

UL and SA certify only that it is safe.

NASA tested only that it reduce amps and increase PF.

No one certified it saves you money because it does not.

[taylortownmayor]

You're one of the first I've seen on here that understands that the UL is only about safety. They don't give a crap about what something actually does, only that it is safe.

This has duped a LOT of people!

[TheElectricalGuru]

How come they NEVER show the WATTS....since meters charge in WATTS....who cares about the amps...you are charged by KWH consumption...they never show WATTS...

[5occerboy]

If it looks to good to be true it probably is! If you are approached to become a dealer for these my advice is to run away. I met a guy who invested $20K for the right to become a dealer on a similar magic box - he's been duped. What is going on here? (Check out my comments with any electrical engineer.) An UNLOADED motor has poor power factor. Improving power factor reduces amps but the motor still needs to do the same work in watts - you get billed for watts not amps. See next comment

[pajaroloco52]

Thanks for the info. I uploaded the video for a friend who by the way doesn't sell the unit anymore. I installed a unit in my home over a year ago and as you say i have cleaner power and reduced spikes. I have been using compact fluorescents over 15 years. Fridge 5 years old, changing one split unit air conditioning to a new inverter type, and recently installed an evacuated glass tube solar water heater. Looking at solar panels since we have paid up to 32 cents a kwh.

[gottagobideo]

You should consider a wind turbine much cheaper than solar.

[pajaroloco52]

will check it out, however we have lots & lots of sun down here in Puerto Rico. I live towards the center part of the island and in a valley so I don't get so much windspeed, average 7 to 12 kts at best. My solar water heater kicks up the water temp to 150 F even in winter. Another factor is that houses are very close.

[gottagobideo]

puertorican women are the hottest your lucky.

[txgiorgi]

Good lord there is no short supply of scammers. In all states I am aware of you are billed for total power!

This device can't reduce the total POWER consumption. Please people. Do your homework. Research Power factor in AC systems.

[5occerboy]

In UNLOADED motors the watts is going into heat and mechanical work. Reduce amps and you reduce heat loss so in UNLOADED or low load situations you will see a small reduction in watts because you are making less heat. ( Electrical engineers: I refer to the VA, VAR, and Watts triangle - improving power factor reduces VA V is the same so A goes down) In the real world few situations correspond to lightly loaded motors. These demos are on UNLOADED motors so it is doing virtually no mechanical work.

[5occerboy]

If you want to save money in your residence you would be better off turning lights and a/c off when not needed - get occupancy sensors - buy compact fluorescents - and junk that 15 year old fridge and get a more efficient one.

[5occerboy]

These devices may improve power factor but residential users are not billed for power factor! These devices may clean up power - reduce spikes etc. but that does nothing for saving energy. Bottom line: these devices do not offer any savings for the 99% of users. A rigorous side-by-side test in 2 identical homes done at the same time in with the same weather conditions and exact same activities (running appliances lights etc.) with logging kWh meters will prove or disprove their dubious claims.

[toob247]

volts * amps=watts watts/ volts gets amps , stop acting like these guys dont know their stuff , call the carwash owner if you need to

[paulusgnome]

Wrong. In an ac power system Power (watts) = Volts x Amps x Power Factor, where Power Factor is the cosine of the displacement angle between voltage and current. When you correct the power factor, as these devices try to do, you reduce the line current, but simultaneously increase the power factor. The result is that the watts stay pretty much unchanged even though the current is reduced.

These products are a scam that tries to exploit people's ignorance of electrical theory. Avoid.

[toob247]

know anyone that has one and can give us their feedback?

[terryterral]

OK, enough with the would be electrical "experts" come on by showing amps they are showing WATTS home power is 120/240VAC it varies little. If you want watts do the math. And as for your paying for watts a drop in AMPS is DIRECTLY a drop in watts. Your meter charges for "apparent power" and to fix the power factor is to move true and apparent power closer to the same. I used to install power factor correction cap banks and they can work miracles in some installs and cause nightmares in others.

[ulgys101]

please show us the kw's in your video, not amps. that's what our elect bill is based on.

you have the equipment there to show us.

[gregswig]

PLEASE SHOW US WHAT THE WATTS ARE BEING USED,

NOT AMPS, YOU HAVE THE EQUIPMENT TO SHOW US.

or this it that there is no drop or very little in the watts after you turn on your saver.

[gregswig]

what he is saying is all true, he is not saying you will save any kwhr's "watts" which is what you are billed.

But the average "joe" do'nt know that, i had to watch the video a couple of time's.

bottom line no savings for the homeowner, great for the power company, correct their power factor.

[PowerExpert]

I challenge you to perform the same (first) example displaying Watts on both meters instead of Amps. You'll see that with or without the capacitor the Watt remains the same. You pay for power (kilowatt-hour) not amperage. the capacitor will not affect the power used. Factories can save money because they get penalized for poor power factor. One more thing. This demo will be most dramatic with no mechanical work being done the motor which is the case here, but is not realistics in normal appl.

[gregswig]

i to wish to see a kwhr meter in this video.

and 100% agree with your comments.

and to add, this product can actually increase your elect bill, when not in use. "capacitor charge"

[figamarsa]

E' un semplice rifasatore.

[willfloe]

Pres: There are no hidden wires, everything is just as they lead you to believe.

The problem is that they measure amps, should be measuring watts to show the truth. The electric company bills for watts, I don't care about amps.

Better find another book that deals with A.C. electrical power, power-factor is important but not clearly understood by many.

Watts = Volts * amps * powerfactor

[willfloe]

SJoel, You have it nailed. It is power factor correction. The demo is flawed because it shows amperage without regard to the phase relationship to the voltage. Watts are watts. The only possible savings are that of line loss between KWHR meter and breaker panel, in most cases this is Nothing! Also, if the device is connected when no motor it running, it actually causes a loss! The demo is convincing but horribly misleading!

[SJoelKatz]

By the way, the example in a "typical home" shows the device increasing the power consumption by a factor of 85. So if those numbers are right (which they almost can't be), the device is a disaster.

By my math, 8.35A with a power factor of .059 is 85 times as many watts as 4.36 with a power factor of .981.

At .059, almost as much power is going back is is coming in. At .981, almost no power is going back.

[SJoelKatz]

Yes, I pay for power I don't need when the motor builds up a magnetic field, but I give that power back when the magnetic field collapses. That's how power factor works.

So why is a lower power factor better? Why would I care about the current and power factor when all I'm paying for is watts?!

[PresOfWeb]

Ya, right...why does your demo board have hidden wires? You need to color code the wires and bring them to the front of the board. The term "Power Factor" is not found in any electrical textbook.