Added: 3 years ago
From: BobbyFromNJ
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  • So that it swirls downward?

  • @ThaDrunkenM0nk

    It makes no difference in the grand scheme of things. You should be stirring your wort while you're chilling so that the temps do not stratify. 

  • Are you in? Nice choice.

  • Do i attach the water in fitting so water flows through the coil upwards or down...great vid by the way!!

  • @ThaDrunkenM0nk

    Water in should go down through the coil, and out returns back up from the bottom.

  • That looks great! Nice video, great looking chiller. Wonderful project and perfect tips for the DIY person! Keep up the great work.

  • wow, i thought that an immersion chiller pumped hot wort through the copper tube while the tube was immersed in ice water

  • I personaly would of made a makeshift mandral to roll it, though might be to much of a pain in the ass for a coil of that diameter. Works well for making tightly wound condenser coils for use on still's though.

  • I am getting tired of the time it takes my old (over 10 years old, got my money's worth out of it) 25' IC to cool down even 5 gallon batches. Really helpful video, especially using connectors for the bends. I think a 50' IC for my keggle sounds like the way to go, plus I will probably try making more 10 gallon batches with a bigger IC

  • 20 fit to 15 would be as much as you need as you just going to keep hot water in the end of the system witch is pointless, and is that food grade solder and flux ?

  • @TheAtuesuel

    That would be true if the water temp was equal to the wort temp in 15 feet but that would only be the case if you trickled water through. When you want to cool fast, you run the water quickly and after 50 feet the water is still coming out cooler than the wort temp. So, in that case, no, 15-20 feet isn't enough.

    Food grade flux and solder? Yes, of course.

  • great vid! nice job, i just built a ribcage immersion chiller myself...vid up on my channel...what kind of chiller are you using? (I see you mentioned that you dont use IC anymore)

  • Man....people are HATERS. First of all, NO WAY your gonna find 1/2" x 50' IC at the brewshop for less than $65. You might find a 25" if lucky, but we make our own brew...why not make your own chiller! Thanks Bobby. I made my first one based on this vid. 50ft. Didn't melt the connects...used clear rubber hose instead. Got a leak on the in-flow piece that I have to troubleshoot. But thanks nonetheless...

  • For the price of the supplies you used one could get a nice wort chiller from a homebrew supply store.

  • @TheFungusMungus

    You know where to get a 1/2" x 50 IC with sweated garden hose fittings for $65 shipped?

  • @BobbyFromNJ Ebay :P Cool vid tho, I may make my own this fall.

  • Awesome job with this bobby. Simple, good explanations, and to the point, with no rambling on about useless information. ^5

  • why did you use Refrigeration tub instead of NOM just for saving money? I would think the .40 would be better then the .032 wall thickness. Did you solider the 3/8 fittings to the inside of the copper tubing? 

  • @jmccollor

    When you're talking about heat transfer, thinner is better. The 3/8" fittings fit over the 1/2" soft copper. It's sounds counter intuitive but the sizes are rated differently. The ID of the tubing is 3/8" and that's how the fittings are sized. The ID of the 3/8" fitting is 1/2".

  • this really helps me thanks! great vid!

  • I used 20 feet of tubing 1/2" ID and it chilled 5 gal of beer in 12 min

  • @StagArmslower

    That sounds about right with nice cold water.

  • I soldered  some of the coils to keep it more rigit

  • Great video. Some points though (I made one of these 21 years ago). 1. 30 feet is still overkill. You can cut it down. 2.  Leave the coil with expansion in it, so that wort can flow through the line. Surface area increases efficiency. Also allows your whirlpool to become much more effective. 3. Degrease final product. 4. Provide danger warning for initial immersions. Steam generation can be very hazardous from internal water in coil from previous use.

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  • bobby, nice work. just followed your tut and it worked out beautifully. had to do a little research to figure where the cold water inlet (male fitting) should be - tube coming from top or bottom. other than that worked like a dream. and no leaks!

    thanks, man - plus all the work you've put in over at homebrewtalk. much appreciated!

  • Honestly I don't believe there is any difference in the direction of the flow. There would be if you left the wort to sit still in the pot, but everyone knows chilling happens way faster when you stir. In that case, it doesn't matter where the coldest water is.

  • Bobby, you da man. I'm just gonna leave it at that (as my happily sweated immersion chiller cools down my brew right now...)

    FWIW, I ended up getting my my copper tubing at Home Depot - by the time shipping got factored into the equation from coppertubingsales, it was cheaper to shop at the big box.

  • I made my own wort chiller this past summer after watching this video. It works great. Thanks for the help.

  • You said that you dont use the IC anymore? what are you using to chill your wort now?

  • I change equipment a lot just to try new things. When I made this video, I was using a counterflow chiller but I'm actually back to trying an IC again. I build myself one of these recently just like you see in the video.

  • be careful because solder melts at 200 degrees, which is easily reachable. you might want to solder only the upper portion not in contact with wort, and bend the lower.

  • jessicaspiess, that's not really true. There are very few alloys that would melt at 200F and they are not common in plumbing. Most common lead free plumbing solders melt in the 400-500F range. I understand the concern though. Thanks.

  • I love this video, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

  • Bobby, I know this video is older and I'm not sure if you're responding any longer but 3/8" does not fit. My elbows are "flared." Were yours?

  • You just convinced me to try this and saved me some money at the same time. Buying one would be easy, but your design keeps things true to "homebrew." Thanks

  • Great job. A buddy of mine and I did something similar but the smaller diameter piping is much easier to work with I am sure.

    A tip for you on soldering. If you apply heat to the one side of what you're trying to solder, and apply solder to the other, the solder gets sucked into the joint for a perfect solder. I used to have a house mate that was a plumber.

    Great video!

  • I fail to understand why the elbows should be 3/8" as long as they are fitted on the outside of the 1/2" tubes. After all, 3/8" is smaller (less) than 1/2". The way you explain it the elbows seem to have to go on the inside of the tubes, which is highly unusual. Sure you don't mean 5/8" fittings?

  • I know it's confusing. 1/2" OD copper tubing is 3/8" inside diameter. Pipe fittings are rated/named for the ID of the tubing they are designed to fit. Therefore, you need 3/8" fittings. Most copper tubing, including the rigid stuff for water piping is named by it's ID. Refrigeration tubing is rated by it's OD. 1/2" rigid copper pipe is actually 5/8" OD but the fittings still say 1/2".

  • Thanks for your explanation (and patience). I think I understand it now :)

  • Me again, asking more stupid questions: why should one use one hose barb to male and one to female garden hose? Why should they be different? The ends of both pieces of garden hose are the same, aren't they?

    Oh, by the way, thanks for your answer regarding the size of the elbows, I think I've got it now :)

  • too hard. get a plate chiller instead.

  • Very nicely done. :)

    Homebrewer here as well.

    I'll be taking on this project soon :)

  • Just built one... not as fancy though. Haven't used it yet. Any special cleaning or prep for first time in the wort?

    Terrific videos... just what I'm looking for

    Thanks

    Mike

  • Add about two cups of distilled white vinegar (really cheap by the gallon) to a kettle full of water and boil the thing for about 15 minutes. The copper should come out shiny. Now just rinse it off after each use.

  • sorry, you had already mentioned lead free solder. Great Video. gonna try it.

  • Great video, just one question. What kind of solder are you using? I think there are some solders with lead composition and some without. I don't think it's much, but for those who are paranoid, might want to go with lead free solder. cheers.

  • already mentioned lead free solder

  • Kudos! I've been wanting to make a counterflow or maybe even a hybrid CFC/IC. Some of your techniques will help me out.

    Thanks

  • Awesome video! You did a great job editing down to the key points!

  • Nice work Bob. I hooked my barb fittings to vinyl tubing so that my supply and exhaust can be away from the boil pot. I was thinking of that when you mentioned how the barbs are specifically intended for what you did, your adjustment to make them work was good ol Yankee Ingenuity at its best...

    cheers!

  • On the chiller I made for myself last year, I did something similar by putting the vinyl tubing directly on the copper coil but the heat always required that I tighten the hose clamps. It would eventually distort the tubing and require replacement. I later modified it to look more like this project and I never had anymore problems.

  • Makes sence.

    You called it "refridgeration" tubing I believe, is there a difference between that and the 50' coil I can get off the shelf at Lowes?

  • I was actually just going to build one, it is good to have a visual. Thanks

    Rob

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