Release of a Black Diamond, ATC Guide auto-blocking belay device under full bodyweight.

[panzergrenadier90]

why dont people just use munter????? you carry no extra weight, pay no extra money, save all the troubles of locking off and giving out slack. simplicity is key to travel light and moving fast. if you are not a mountain guide that has to bring up two seconds at same time, munter hitch is the best choice.

[Rangersee18]

@panzergrenadier90 Because the munter hitch twist the crap out of your rope.

[expara1]

Look  folks keep it simple. and what if you need to rescue the number 1- how are you going to lower him or her?

[wankel7]

What about putting the brake strand into a biner on a munter ?

[TheGhettoGourmet]

Love the redirect setup. When you first ran the release to your harness I was questioning the setup, but you immediately resolved that issue and demonstrated a great way to use the BD guide atc. Thanks!

[mtnfun37]

Connecting sling to harness was totally appropriate and safe as he addressed the risk of slipping or being struck by rock or lightning and maintaining the brake through the auto block on the brake strand back to his belay loop.

practice makes this set-up very efficient...nice video!

[rwalt85]

It does seem like reversing the order of operation would be safer since the 'third hand' auto-block would already be in place when he attaches the 'release' sling to the ATCguide. That way if he slips (unlikely worst case scenario) then the autoblock can engage and he will have additional control.

[climbinglifeguides]

@rwalt85 I agree that the autoblock should probably go on first to protect against any mishaps- good observation!

[mtnfun37]

@rwalt85

Agreed!

[jclayn1]

I just starting using the atcguide with this method, works great!

[3325js]

wouldn't recomend attaching release sling to harness. If you slip while setting up the rest of the system, the climbers gonna go down.

[mck787]

@3325js you read my mind. If I have to do this I create a footloop to release the device and have a munter hitch off my belay loop.

[rearvumirror]

Seems complicated but full marks for a workable ultra-safe system.