its soooo sad they sell steadycams for sooooooo much money when everybody knows its not so difficult to make one... I mean this one has way better results than the monosteady footages Ive seen so far.....
Looks great, i'mrpobabaly going to try and build one for myself. But i thought what about using an old hard drive (they are practically free) as a gyroscope?
Wow for a prototype of a merlin steadicam - and so it works actually. I'll see a turn in the carpentry workshop. Now if you made a tapped session of the kink so it works just like the orriginale so you can adjust the weight below, but otherwise a good alternative. I have the orriginale steadicam JR with Monitor and the movie with me - in particular the video I have recorded in Legoland in Denmark (although it blows a part so it was hard to manage). Best greetings from Denmark.
It's all a big cost-benefit analysis. Ball joints have their place... while not perfect, they are easy to work with, and a 'good' ball joint can be better than a poorly assembled gimbal. Trust me, I know ;)
Hi yb2normal, I just can't wait to do one of your steadicam version (1,2,3,4,5)but i have a problem..... I don't know wich version is the version that works better than the others, so please respond to this message, i will apreciate because I've been looking a thousands of DIY steadicams and yours is the best so far.
Thanks a lot!!!!!!!!
(If my English is don't right is because I am Mexican, so sorry, but I hope that you understand what I say)
Each stabilizer has it's benefits and problems. Amount of friction, ease of building etc... all different factors in deciding. You've seen my results... they are all capable!
@malouni95 I had trouble putting together a DIY steadicam that I could trust my DSLR on. I've been using the Cam Caddie Scorpion with great success i suggest to anyone in search of an effective independent setup.
Hi and thanks a lot for doing this video I really want that you show to us how to build it because I've been looking homemade steadicams and your steadicam is the best so far, so please do a tutorial or something and thanks a lot!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't know the max weight but I'd say the main limiting factors are the wood block that holds the ball joint, and the fact that you would need to add a corresponding amount of weight on the lower arms, making the unit difficult to carry. Cost is also hard to say since I made it from scraps around the house. The really expensive parts were the tools I bought to build it! But now I have a very nice little bench grinder :)
Follow the link in the video description to learn about the ball joint. To rotate the unit I took advantage of the inherent friction in the joint, and was able to get the unit to rotate slowly by rotating the handle.
As well as the operator who is controlling it :) Seriously though, I haven't run with it. Most asymmetrical stabilizer designs are going to be impacted by the wind generated from running and have a tendency to wind-vane. The effect can be minimized by using the smallest profile building materials you can find (many people use electrical conduit with great success.)
Yup, I have lubricated it. Ball Joints aren't really intended to be friction free so I'm actually pretty happy with the results I got. It's really a matter of understanding the design's limitation and working within it.
Dude seriously, this is awesome. really great job. Not sure how much of this is the design of the rig and how much is your skill at operating, but wow...
It's a combination of a reasonably well balanced stabilizer and an hour or so of practice. I shoot 5 minute clips then go back and view them so I can get immediate feedback on my technique. It really helped me dial it in.
When I saw the Merlin I thought: somebody is going to replicate that for a couple of bucks.
And here it is!
Awesome. And it works perfectly. When the camera followed the boy it was just like a scene out of "The Shining". One of the first movies to use steadicam.
I say give it a try! Sustainability is about using local materials to accomplish our goals. The materials uses are secondary to mastering the physics of the unit. Good luck!
Thanks a lot, just ordered the ball joint from ebay and can't wait to start building. Mine is gonna be almost entirely from metal. I'm not exactly sure whether that's an advantage or disadvantage, but time will tell. I'll post my results as soon as the mail man's here and i'm done building.
It depends on the metal I think. As long as it doesn't resonate much (amplifying the small inevitable jarring movements of the user) it should be fine, and the extra mass should actually help ("inertial dampening"). If it is a lot heavier though it could get tiring to fly properly.
Again sorry to ask but can we have some further details on building that fantastic rig? In the form of a video make would be more the exelent! i am sure loads of people would aprriciate it!
I wish I had the time! Really it is an organic process and I would say success depends on (1) getting a proper gimbal (2) making sure you have good x/y adjustment of the camera plate (3) being able to fine tune the top/bottom balance and (3) understanding *why* these designs work. My exact measurements would be mostly meaningless to someone flying a different camcorder, but for sure I can recommend the gimbal I found, as well as the camera plate design. Beyond that... experiment! :)
Not so much... the overall mass of the camera and stabilizer is very low, so not a lot of inertia to help you out. Also, this particular design relies to a great extent on your ability to absorb motion within your arm which gets harder as you try to run. I think this is a limitation of any Merlin-like design.
I was thinking, because these kids here watch?v=Awh3x_Zm00g&feature=related are running with theirs, though not quite merlin style, it does seem similar. What are your thoughts on this particular design in that video?
Hello m8, very son I'll put some test videos up of my upgraded unit, I think it's the closest approach to the real thing in terms of DIY. I've got unsurpassed stability even while running. I still thik I have too much wood, this would be the fourth attempt. Coming soon.
If I lived in your city, I would buy one for ya, cause the MErlin is 800 dollars....that is not an option for me. I know I can edit great videos, but a tracking shot is just what I need.
Thank you for the demonstration and the incentive to build one of my own. It was quite the fun project to do. I spent about 6 evenings designing and building it. I was impressed with how much improvement it did make to the video as opposed to just hand holding the camera. I posted a little video showing it off.
Do you find that of the 2 types you built and demonstrated here, 1 is easier or better to use over the other?
I would say the first version is easier to 'fly' since the main shaft gives you something easy to steer with. It was much more complicated to build though, due to the homemade gimbal, and that is why I focus on the Merlin-like design for version 2 and 3
I too wish to share my thanks for the inspiration you have given me to try my hand at making one of these stabilizers myself. I have been very impressed with how well it functions. I will be posting a video soon to show some of the elements and demonstrate the improvement to the stability that it makes.
First,I want thank you for your ingenuity and inspiring me to create my own DIY steadicam. Five Stars. Secondly, I want to ask you a few questions. How is the camera mount bolt attached to the wood? Also, it seems like the entire mount would have to spin to attach it to the cameras thread, so how does it tighten at the right spot? Lastly, what is the wing nut screwing into on the mount? Is the wood threaded somehow? Thank You!
How is the camera mount bolt attached to the wood? >> I drilled a hole all the way up through the wood, then cut the head off a 1/4x20 bolt and then slotted the end of it so I could screw it up through the wood to expose a mount for the camera.
Also, it seems like the entire mount would have to spin to attach it to the cameras thread, so how does it tighten at the right spot?
>> Basically I spin the camera down until it is as low as possible and still straight ahead, then use a slotted screw driver to finish tightening from below (remembering that the camera mount is just a 1/4x20 bolt with the head cut off and then slotted to accept a screwdriver from the bottom
Lastly, what is the wing nut screwing into on the mount? Is the wood threaded somehow?
>>> Yes exactly. I drilled a pilot hole slightly smaller than the wing bolt then screwed it in. The first time is hard, the second time is a bit easier, and the third time is perfect. If it ever gets too loose (mine did as I experimented) I soak the hole with thin-CA glue which hardens the threaded hole. This is a common model-airplane builder's trick.
I've only run a little bit with it and it seems fine. I suspect it is no worse than the commercial units when it comes running. Lots of practice and no wind help!
You SIR are AWESOME !!! you some kind of engineer ??? is there a chance of that ball off the balljoint popping out ???? im going to make one i have an HV30 witch is not that heavy but i heard that on the pro ones has that known problem of the ball coming out of the socket...? please answer... Thanks !!!
Thanks! Yes I'm an engineer but I take no credit for the design. Everything is adapted from what I've found on the AV forums and Youtube. Regarding the ball joint, there is no way that ball is coming out of the socket without a ball joint extractor tool. It's a tie rod end with a metal socket and metal ball.
It's a nice job, no doubts about it. The only down side is the bulkiness of it, which is the same problem I had with my own trials. In the end I opted for the neatly compact Hague MMC Stabilizer which didn't cost all that much. Good work though. All praise to you.
The Hague MMC is a great piece of engineering, for sure, but I think it is more limited than the steadicam Merlin which was the basis for my design. The version in this video has a fixed head-to-tail ratio like the Hague and I realized that this meant adding a LOT of weight as my cameras got heavier. My third revision has joints that allow the bottom weights to be moved farther below the head, giving them more leverage and therefore needing less weight.
I should add that my main goal was to best the commercial designs in price, while getting 'good enough' results. If I were to get into professional videography I'd be all over the Hague for my small camera and one of the flycam/glidecam derivatives for my heavier cameras.
The ball joint is 'mostly' friction free, so I get it to turn just by rotating the handle. As I prepare to make a turn around a corner I'll give the handle a small twist to get the unit started into the turn. Then it will stay in the turn just as long as I am turning. When I stop the turn (returning to straight line) the unit takes a second to stop rotating, which I have to plan for so I don't overshoot.
Yes, thats very impressive, the best DIY Glidecam i ever have seen. The video looks a litle bit jittery as you step up the stairs, have you used a Software to stop shaking the video?
Nope, no software stabilization. I've noticed the jittery-ness also and I think it was just something funky in the encoding, or how it was captured in camera. It's hard to tell, but the clip up the stairs was actually played *backwards*... I was actually walking down the stairs.
That's pretty awesome. The vid looks so smooth and I guess the whole set is not that heavy, isn't it? Why do you use wood instead of aluminum? I'm thinking it would take a little more time to sharpe the frame, right?
So roughly estimate, I'm just curious how much did you spend for the whole set?
Any way, that's still a very cool stuff I've ever seen, thanks so much.
My main decision to go with wood is that my little garage/shop (literally just a bench in the garage) has mostly woodworking tools and that is where my comfort is. Youtuber 'forthaney' has done a metal version that I am trying to learn about and I think that will be my next version. The cost of my wood one is around $15 and that includes almost $5 for just the ball joint! It is hard to calculate for sure since each part is cut from larger stock (plywood sheets, PVC pipe, etc)
That's pretty awesome. The vid looks so smooth and I guess the whole set is not that heavy, isn't it? Why do you use wood instead of aluminum? I'm thinking it would take a little more time to sharpe the frame, right?
So roughly estimate, I'm just curious how much did you spend for the whole set?
Any way, that's still a very cool stuff I've ever seen, thanks so much.
oh definitely, this isn't intended to look 'pro'. Just a personal goal is all, trying to get similar results for about $750 less than the commercial version. Can you imagine trying to use this in a commercial venture? The Clampett's go to Hollywood :)
So is this footage using the 1/4" right angle ball joint model? I just ordered one of the ball joints.
TheMidwestbear 1 year ago
cool, but would be better in iron
oasotam 1 year ago
ummm, maybe you don't mind to explain how you build this?
HiroIndo16 1 year ago
I'm pretty impressed...
The video is very, very smooth, although you are using a homemade Steadicam...
I guess I'll make one myself.
Winnerslay 1 year ago
It's leaning right. Give it some weights on the left side and you're good.
BDGLZ 1 year ago
Is there anyway i can purchase one from you, sir?
JeffysPlayhouse 1 year ago
Hello, what the correct measures to use? very nice. As was done for Steadicam Gimbal? what kind of material? Thanks - msn?
Lucianolmm 1 year ago
Hello, what the correct measures to use? very nice. As was done for Steadicam Gimbal? what kind of material? Thanks - msn?
Luciano.
Lucianolmm 1 year ago
'
bravoo,,,
very good make this steadicam
bestamerica 1 year ago
Great demo! Thanks for sharing! I'd like to see what you could do if you had a machine shop!
miksilplik 1 year ago
its soooo sad they sell steadycams for sooooooo much money when everybody knows its not so difficult to make one... I mean this one has way better results than the monosteady footages Ive seen so far.....
bravo~
motu828mk2 1 year ago
So which one do you recommend? This type of the other one with the threaded bar and PVC pipe gimbal?
Thanks!
catascouts 1 year ago
Thank you so much! This is just what I needed, an affordable DIY steadicam that actually works very well!
aznandprd 2 years ago
Looks great, i'mrpobabaly going to try and build one for myself. But i thought what about using an old hard drive (they are practically free) as a gyroscope?
bijleveldrc 2 years ago
well done thats really nice i want to make one now
33fgfhjjggy6y 2 years ago
Oh Yeah...beutiful smoooth picture!Great job!
luke01112121212121 2 years ago
Wow for a prototype of a merlin steadicam - and so it works actually. I'll see a turn in the carpentry workshop. Now if you made a tapped session of the kink so it works just like the orriginale so you can adjust the weight below, but otherwise a good alternative. I have the orriginale steadicam JR with Monitor and the movie with me - in particular the video I have recorded in Legoland in Denmark (although it blows a part so it was hard to manage). Best greetings from Denmark.
midtvideo 2 years ago
you need balls to go with that joint !
:)
artdv1 2 years ago
ball joints have more friction than a gimbal. stay away from ball joints.
you won't regret it.
artdv1 2 years ago
It's all a big cost-benefit analysis. Ball joints have their place... while not perfect, they are easy to work with, and a 'good' ball joint can be better than a poorly assembled gimbal. Trust me, I know ;)
yb2normal 2 years ago
Absolutely right!
I'm with you!
sturdyshots 1 year ago
artdv1,
'
ball joint is limit position,,,
gimbal is more room
bestamerica 1 year ago
Hi yb2normal, I just can't wait to do one of your steadicam version (1,2,3,4,5)but i have a problem..... I don't know wich version is the version that works better than the others, so please respond to this message, i will apreciate because I've been looking a thousands of DIY steadicams and yours is the best so far.
Thanks a lot!!!!!!!!
(If my English is don't right is because I am Mexican, so sorry, but I hope that you understand what I say)
Thanks again!!!
malouni95 2 years ago
Hi there! Your english is fine :)
Each stabilizer has it's benefits and problems. Amount of friction, ease of building etc... all different factors in deciding. You've seen my results... they are all capable!
yb2normal 2 years ago
@malouni95 I had trouble putting together a DIY steadicam that I could trust my DSLR on. I've been using the Cam Caddie Scorpion with great success i suggest to anyone in search of an effective independent setup.
SoRealCereal 7 months ago
Hi and thanks a lot for doing this video I really want that you show to us how to build it because I've been looking homemade steadicams and your steadicam is the best so far, so please do a tutorial or something and thanks a lot!!!!!!!!!!!!
malouni95 2 years ago
wow this looks great I'm planning on building my own as well....I'm really excited now!!
lliicckk 2 years ago
its amaizing how much better a steadicam makes it
loopafox 2 years ago
What is the maximum weight that this steadicam is capable of holding? How much does it cost in it's entirety?
Screenwriter314 2 years ago
I don't know the max weight but I'd say the main limiting factors are the wood block that holds the ball joint, and the fact that you would need to add a corresponding amount of weight on the lower arms, making the unit difficult to carry. Cost is also hard to say since I made it from scraps around the house. The really expensive parts were the tools I bought to build it! But now I have a very nice little bench grinder :)
yb2normal 2 years ago
where do you get ball joints like that? plus, do you have to rotate it with your other hand or can it move by twisting the handle? I want to make one
imacrazydude9999999 2 years ago
Follow the link in the video description to learn about the ball joint. To rotate the unit I took advantage of the inherent friction in the joint, and was able to get the unit to rotate slowly by rotating the handle.
yb2normal 2 years ago
How does it do at high speeds, such as running?
FlukyFilms 2 years ago
As well as the operator who is controlling it :) Seriously though, I haven't run with it. Most asymmetrical stabilizer designs are going to be impacted by the wind generated from running and have a tendency to wind-vane. The effect can be minimized by using the smallest profile building materials you can find (many people use electrical conduit with great success.)
yb2normal 2 years ago
Hey, quick question. You said you had trouble with this gimbal design because it had too much friction. Did you try lubricating it? thanks!
paulbutts09 2 years ago
Yup, I have lubricated it. Ball Joints aren't really intended to be friction free so I'm actually pretty happy with the results I got. It's really a matter of understanding the design's limitation and working within it.
yb2normal 2 years ago
Dude seriously, this is awesome. really great job. Not sure how much of this is the design of the rig and how much is your skill at operating, but wow...
thorne06 2 years ago
It's a combination of a reasonably well balanced stabilizer and an hour or so of practice. I shoot 5 minute clips then go back and view them so I can get immediate feedback on my technique. It really helped me dial it in.
yb2normal 2 years ago
is one of the best steadycam Videos here on You Tube
VVMagicboy 2 years ago
When I saw the Merlin I thought: somebody is going to replicate that for a couple of bucks.
And here it is!
Awesome. And it works perfectly. When the camera followed the boy it was just like a scene out of "The Shining". One of the first movies to use steadicam.
65DDTG 2 years ago
I am impressed with results for thing like that... very very good...
hrmarinkovic 2 years ago
hell yeah when i saw this i immediately thought "Shinning"
TrexTony117 2 years ago
works well
halcncod 2 years ago
Thanks for the ideas. I'm wondering if I can adapt an anglepoise lamp arm for the the vertical section. I've just out a wanted ad. on Freecycle.
raybarber 2 years ago
I say give it a try! Sustainability is about using local materials to accomplish our goals. The materials uses are secondary to mastering the physics of the unit. Good luck!
yb2normal 2 years ago
hey can i have a list of the stuff you need to make that? and maybe the measurements too? thanks!
FreakyFritterFilms 3 years ago
I have a link to my website in the video description which offers all the details I've posted on the rig. Thanks! Bill
yb2normal 2 years ago
wonderful. I need to build me one of these
MultiTalentedMan 3 years ago
man that steadicam is amazing.
5/5
toomasio 3 years ago
Thanks a lot, just ordered the ball joint from ebay and can't wait to start building. Mine is gonna be almost entirely from metal. I'm not exactly sure whether that's an advantage or disadvantage, but time will tell. I'll post my results as soon as the mail man's here and i'm done building.
tom13411341 3 years ago
It depends on the metal I think. As long as it doesn't resonate much (amplifying the small inevitable jarring movements of the user) it should be fine, and the extra mass should actually help ("inertial dampening"). If it is a lot heavier though it could get tiring to fly properly.
yb2normal 3 years ago
Again sorry to ask but can we have some further details on building that fantastic rig? In the form of a video make would be more the exelent! i am sure loads of people would aprriciate it!
GeekStars
geekstars 3 years ago
I wish I had the time! Really it is an organic process and I would say success depends on (1) getting a proper gimbal (2) making sure you have good x/y adjustment of the camera plate (3) being able to fine tune the top/bottom balance and (3) understanding *why* these designs work. My exact measurements would be mostly meaningless to someone flying a different camcorder, but for sure I can recommend the gimbal I found, as well as the camera plate design. Beyond that... experiment! :)
yb2normal 3 years ago
Hi can I have the exact measurements?
imangelanjo 3 years ago
Hi,
I love your homemade steadycam system.
Can you please, please send me a list of the parts you used and its dimensions?
I've been to your website bute there is no list nor dimensions.
Thank you very, very much.
Filipe Garcia
PS. I'm looking forward to buil one like yours
lboymusic 3 years ago
hello,
can you please let me know how you made, or where did you get the handle (gimbal)?
Thanks
stevesperandeo 3 years ago
The link to the source is on the webpage in the video description. It is an ebay seller that goes by the name "quality-stuff-for-you"
yb2normal 3 years ago
hey, can you tell me what are better with version one and version 2
DiaboloNiclas 3 years ago
Please!!
DiaboloNiclas 3 years ago
Hey great job, It looks really good. I have been thinking of making one for a while now. Where can you get a ball joint gimbal?
NormaJean337 3 years ago
Hi from Turkey. Perfect job. That's project is my inspiration. Thanks yb2normal
7tenten7 3 years ago
can you run with it?
pn0yb0iProductions 3 years ago
Not so much... the overall mass of the camera and stabilizer is very low, so not a lot of inertia to help you out. Also, this particular design relies to a great extent on your ability to absorb motion within your arm which gets harder as you try to run. I think this is a limitation of any Merlin-like design.
yb2normal 3 years ago
I was thinking, because these kids here watch?v=Awh3x_Zm00g&feature=related are running with theirs, though not quite merlin style, it does seem similar. What are your thoughts on this particular design in that video?
pn0yb0iProductions 3 years ago
They took down the 'how to' video so I can't really comment on the design, but I'd love to see it!
yb2normal 3 years ago
Hello m8, very son I'll put some test videos up of my upgraded unit, I think it's the closest approach to the real thing in terms of DIY. I've got unsurpassed stability even while running. I still thik I have too much wood, this would be the fourth attempt. Coming soon.
DaveDrumstick 3 years ago
Wonderful! Thank you for sharing it!
athenathon77 3 years ago
dude that stabilizer is 10x better than a friggin dolly!
ps: anyone the song is the vid?
SMITHERSTHEMAGICIAN 3 years ago
If I lived in your city, I would buy one for ya, cause the MErlin is 800 dollars....that is not an option for me. I know I can edit great videos, but a tracking shot is just what I need.
Schizophrenik7 3 years ago
HOLY CRAP
it works so good i almost don't believe you.
you used a dolly...jk
great!
funkyfredscool 3 years ago
this is smooth man.. love the music that goes with it!
senyores2000 3 years ago
WOW! works just like the retail version of merlin! nice work!
brok3npr0ductions 3 years ago
Thank you for the demonstration and the incentive to build one of my own. It was quite the fun project to do. I spent about 6 evenings designing and building it. I was impressed with how much improvement it did make to the video as opposed to just hand holding the camera. I posted a little video showing it off.
Do you find that of the 2 types you built and demonstrated here, 1 is easier or better to use over the other?
Gambalnook 3 years ago
I would say the first version is easier to 'fly' since the main shaft gives you something easy to steer with. It was much more complicated to build though, due to the homemade gimbal, and that is why I focus on the Merlin-like design for version 2 and 3
yb2normal 3 years ago
I too wish to share my thanks for the inspiration you have given me to try my hand at making one of these stabilizers myself. I have been very impressed with how well it functions. I will be posting a video soon to show some of the elements and demonstrate the improvement to the stability that it makes.
Gamblenook 3 years ago
First,I want thank you for your ingenuity and inspiring me to create my own DIY steadicam. Five Stars. Secondly, I want to ask you a few questions. How is the camera mount bolt attached to the wood? Also, it seems like the entire mount would have to spin to attach it to the cameras thread, so how does it tighten at the right spot? Lastly, what is the wing nut screwing into on the mount? Is the wood threaded somehow? Thank You!
wildkeith 3 years ago
Also, what kind of bolt is the camera mount bolt?
wildkeith 3 years ago
How is the camera mount bolt attached to the wood? >> I drilled a hole all the way up through the wood, then cut the head off a 1/4x20 bolt and then slotted the end of it so I could screw it up through the wood to expose a mount for the camera.
yb2normal 3 years ago
Also, it seems like the entire mount would have to spin to attach it to the cameras thread, so how does it tighten at the right spot?
>> Basically I spin the camera down until it is as low as possible and still straight ahead, then use a slotted screw driver to finish tightening from below (remembering that the camera mount is just a 1/4x20 bolt with the head cut off and then slotted to accept a screwdriver from the bottom
yb2normal 3 years ago
Lastly, what is the wing nut screwing into on the mount? Is the wood threaded somehow?
>>> Yes exactly. I drilled a pilot hole slightly smaller than the wing bolt then screwed it in. The first time is hard, the second time is a bit easier, and the third time is perfect. If it ever gets too loose (mine did as I experimented) I soak the hole with thin-CA glue which hardens the threaded hole. This is a common model-airplane builder's trick.
yb2normal 3 years ago
How does it preform while running/slight jog (maybe)???
tsccea 3 years ago
I've only run a little bit with it and it seems fine. I suspect it is no worse than the commercial units when it comes running. Lots of practice and no wind help!
yb2normal 3 years ago
You SIR are AWESOME !!! you some kind of engineer ??? is there a chance of that ball off the balljoint popping out ???? im going to make one i have an HV30 witch is not that heavy but i heard that on the pro ones has that known problem of the ball coming out of the socket...? please answer... Thanks !!!
1lopezgarza 3 years ago
Thanks! Yes I'm an engineer but I take no credit for the design. Everything is adapted from what I've found on the AV forums and Youtube. Regarding the ball joint, there is no way that ball is coming out of the socket without a ball joint extractor tool. It's a tie rod end with a metal socket and metal ball.
yb2normal 3 years ago
It's a nice job, no doubts about it. The only down side is the bulkiness of it, which is the same problem I had with my own trials. In the end I opted for the neatly compact Hague MMC Stabilizer which didn't cost all that much. Good work though. All praise to you.
kadzbiz 3 years ago
The Hague MMC is a great piece of engineering, for sure, but I think it is more limited than the steadicam Merlin which was the basis for my design. The version in this video has a fixed head-to-tail ratio like the Hague and I realized that this meant adding a LOT of weight as my cameras got heavier. My third revision has joints that allow the bottom weights to be moved farther below the head, giving them more leverage and therefore needing less weight.
yb2normal 3 years ago
I should add that my main goal was to best the commercial designs in price, while getting 'good enough' results. If I were to get into professional videography I'd be all over the Hague for my small camera and one of the flycam/glidecam derivatives for my heavier cameras.
yb2normal 3 years ago
How do you control turning with it? does the ball joint spin freely or is it locked while the other movements are available?
vgaboy 3 years ago
The ball joint is 'mostly' friction free, so I get it to turn just by rotating the handle. As I prepare to make a turn around a corner I'll give the handle a small twist to get the unit started into the turn. Then it will stay in the turn just as long as I am turning. When I stop the turn (returning to straight line) the unit takes a second to stop rotating, which I have to plan for so I don't overshoot.
yb2normal 3 years ago
you are the man!
sinnermenproductions 3 years ago
Nice work! I've been looking all over for a ball joint, where did you find yours?
defcondeal 3 years ago
Check out the link in my video description, I give a link to the guy on Ebay...
yb2normal 3 years ago
Yes, thats very impressive, the best DIY Glidecam i ever have seen. The video looks a litle bit jittery as you step up the stairs, have you used a Software to stop shaking the video?
MacMave 3 years ago
Nope, no software stabilization. I've noticed the jittery-ness also and I think it was just something funky in the encoding, or how it was captured in camera. It's hard to tell, but the clip up the stairs was actually played *backwards*... I was actually walking down the stairs.
yb2normal 3 years ago
IM SOO BUILDING ONE. RIGHT NOW!
pigpen7471 3 years ago
its the best homemade steadicam really man congrat
Aroldo2k6 3 years ago
Best diy steadicam i've seem so far! Very impressive.
redphelt 4 years ago
Thanks for the nice comment! I've completed a new and improved version which I document here:
yb2normal dot com forward slash DIYsteadicam3dot html
yb2normal 3 years ago
You're a motherfucking genius man!
DaveDrumstick 3 years ago
wow your steadicam kicks ass lol. i defenitly wanna make yours instead because of its compatibility with many other camreas!! sweet video!!
Ben1257sb 4 years ago
hey very nice work there ! sent a pm ! do reply thanks mate
anthonyt87 4 years ago
Hi Anthony... I've replied to your PM, thanks for the contact
yb2normal 4 years ago
That's pretty awesome. The vid looks so smooth and I guess the whole set is not that heavy, isn't it? Why do you use wood instead of aluminum? I'm thinking it would take a little more time to sharpe the frame, right?
So roughly estimate, I'm just curious how much did you spend for the whole set?
Any way, that's still a very cool stuff I've ever seen, thanks so much.
bongkin123 4 years ago
My main decision to go with wood is that my little garage/shop (literally just a bench in the garage) has mostly woodworking tools and that is where my comfort is. Youtuber 'forthaney' has done a metal version that I am trying to learn about and I think that will be my next version. The cost of my wood one is around $15 and that includes almost $5 for just the ball joint! It is hard to calculate for sure since each part is cut from larger stock (plywood sheets, PVC pipe, etc)
yb2normal 4 years ago
That's pretty awesome. The vid looks so smooth and I guess the whole set is not that heavy, isn't it? Why do you use wood instead of aluminum? I'm thinking it would take a little more time to sharpe the frame, right?
So roughly estimate, I'm just curious how much did you spend for the whole set?
Any way, that's still a very cool stuff I've ever seen, thanks so much.
bongkin123 4 years ago
That'scool, but eventualy if consumers want the pro look they will need to go with the OG Merlin.
It still cool,thanks.
DevesterOner 4 years ago
oh definitely, this isn't intended to look 'pro'. Just a personal goal is all, trying to get similar results for about $750 less than the commercial version. Can you imagine trying to use this in a commercial venture? The Clampett's go to Hollywood :)
yb2normal 4 years ago