@madscientist4energy It won't choke because there is a 12mm gap under the lower edge of the enclosure and the outer edge of the enclosed drip tray.
The square tubing forming the lower framework has horizontal angle grinder slots in the inside and it's plumbed into a 2.5lb CO2 extinguisher with 1/2" copper tube, in case of a fire.
Continued: Sorry about the rant! Simon I just wanted to know how you have attached the lid of the camp oven to the cylinder sleeve. Is it just welded and if so what type of rods did you use?
Hi, thanks for your comments. The lid is bolted to the sleeve from the under side with 4mm machine screws. There's plenty of meat (about 7mm) in the wall of the sleeve to drill and tap it. Thanks
I know Spike by email, I had built a fan forced heater. Very different to the model he built. It runs a white hot flame. The old guy that lives next door to me was a blacksmith and says the color of flame I had would be about 1500 degrees celsius. It heats my shed way to hot at an idle. The problem I had was the complexity in design and it takes about 30 minutes to disasemble to clean. After seeing your heater I am sold. Simple and effective.
I put screwed up news paper and a fire starter in the pot, light it and then turn on the oil. After a few minutes the pot gets hot enough to keep it going once the news paper and fire stater have burnt out.
thanks for that Simon i,ll see if i can find one.I have already tried to find one but the ones i have seen seem to be for the american market,especially the drip feed valve with the sight glass. I see the needle valve by Nebojsa looks interesting i might have a try at that .
hi, I made a motherearth oil heater a few months ago to heat my workshop which it does fine cold outside/degrees sweating inside. i am having trouble regulating it with a ball valve in line at the moment . I see on your comments you have a needle valve ,and i was wondering where you got this? i,m not too over the moon with my mother earth and was thinking of knocking up a similar heater to yours but i,ll try the flow first. the valve will be ready for mine. Derek when i make it
Hi Derek, you will definitely need a valve that will enable fine control of the oil flow given the relatively low fuel requirements of the heater and using a needle valve is really the only simple way to do that. I don't recall where I got my valve but any engineering supplier should be able to help. Thanks
Hi Mike, the drums are not welded together, the top drum is located on three steel pins that are in the bottom one and they are held together with gravity. The pan is a camp oven and made from cast iron. It's just a pot with a lid and used for cooking over an open fire. You should be able to get one from a camping or outdoors store.
Hi, you could build it to do the job, it's just a case of feeding in more oil and air. The difficult part is getting the mixture right which is done by increasing or decreasing the amount or size of the holes in the burner tube. It takes a bit of trial and error but you should be able to get it to burn clean. Thanks
Hi, the flywheel baffle hangs from the top plate by a couple of strips of steel about 40mm x 6mm and about 200mm long. They are welded directly to the flywheel and plate. Thanks
Hello, I wanted to know if there are any drawings out there for this heater. also inside the brake drum chamber is there any type of baffle or does the flame just free flow up into the brake drum chamber and then into the chimney.
I have built a Roger Sanders heater and am not very happy with its output. I am in the process of gathering up items to build this heater. I have a liner, pot and brake drums. I intend to turn the brake drums on a lathe so they fit together like Spike's drums. The rest of the heater will follow what you have done.
I have two questions, the first, how is your cast oven lid fastened to the liner and the liner to the lower drum?
Also what type of spring are you using under the cast oven?
Hi, I have the heater packed away at the moment as I have moved house and not currently using it. From memory, the holes are spaced approximately 10mm apart and there's about 520 of them. The hole size is 1.95mm. Thanks for you interest.
EXCELLENT! I like the fact that it is much quieter than other units out here. This is certainly on my must build list! Thanks for all the information.
hi, love the concept of your burner, we're in the process of making one , and would like to know if your drip feed viewer is a glass encased one or just an open viewer , thanks, regards john
Hi, I have a question. Would you consider building and selling one of these to me? How much would it cost, and how much would shipping be to USA zip 54401 in Wisconsin? I know you can build it better than me and now know some tweeks to make it work very well. Tx. Bob C
Hi, I have a question. Would you consider building and selling one of these to me? How much would it cost, and how much would shipping be to USA zip 54401 in Wisconsin? I know you can build it better than me and now know some tweeks to make it work very well. Tx. Bob C
you mention no visible emmissions from the flue,however I think its worth mentioning to viewers that they must ensure exhaust vents must be positioned outside, as I am sure if one were to place a Co2 detector at the flue's exit it would sound quickly. Non-visible doesn't mean non-existant. Nice set up mate!
Nice unit! I noticed your oil pan has 2 handles. Does the bottom disconnect from the top pan so you can clean out the soot more easily? I'm currently modifying the firepot of an old fuel oil room heater to burn waste motor oil.
The bottom handle is attached to the spring loaded cradle that holds the pot tightly up against the lid. The top handle is attached to the pot. To remove the pot, simply push the bottom handle down and lift the pot out. Good luck with your room heater conversion.
Thanks for that. I don't have any plans sorry. Have a read through all the previous comments on here and you should get a fair idea of how it's constructed.
Increasing the mass inside the stove could replace your baffle and if the heater is turned off at night maybe radiate heat longer?
If the heater is optimized maybe you burn less oil? Not that the oil is expensive... burning less oil means collecting it less often and less you need to handle and store for winter.
What would you think about cutting a 3rd drum into quarters. Put the quartered pieces inside all jumbled up. Do you think that may help swirl the gasses around a bit and radiate more heat?
Great Heater. I had a konskilde waste oil heater some years ago worked on same prnciple. Do you have baffles in between the two brake drums to stop flames gooing up the flue? What is the lid for the cast iron pot made from? Is that just mild steel? Do you just light it with some diesel to start it off? How much higher than the fire do you have your oil tank or is it pump feed? Thanks :-)
There's a baffle which hangs around mid height of the top drum. The flames don't hit it but it helps direct the heat out to the drum rather that shooting straight up the flue. The baffle is just a flywheel from a car engine. The lid is cast and is what comes with pot. The oil is gravity fed from a header tank in the garage and has a head of around 1.6 metres. The header tank is topped up from the main storage tank with an electric pump every day or two. Thanks
Regarding my previous comments, if anyone wants to jump in and correct me, please do so. This heater produces more than enough to heat my 140 square meter home. If you want more or less BTU's, just alter the amount of secondary combustion air so you can burn more or less oil while still maintaining a good clean burn. Thanks
I'm sorry but I don't know the answer to that and I'm not sure how to work it out. However, if we consider that 1 litre of waste mineral oil contains maybe 34000 BTU's and this heater in its current state of tune will burn up to 1.5 litres per hour that would equate to 51000 BTU's. However, this would only be the case if the burner was 100% efficient which is certainly is not. If we consider that it may be 50% efficient that would give us 25500 BTU's. Thanks
Is that perforated steel screen above the cast pot? Or is there glass in there? I see your air input in through the 4 or so driled holes. Just wondering if is air tight except for the drilled holes? This is great!! Thanks
The perforated tube is a cylinder liner out of a Cummins Signature diesel engine that has been drilled out to allow secondary combustion air in. The cast pot is basically air tight. The few holes holes in the lid allow in the primary combustion air. Thanks
I just got some diesel cylinder inserts and I'm building my heater now - it looks like you and ozzirt just used the lower half of the tube is that correct? You cut it off just above that first flange? The lower portion of the tube is thinner.
Also, I guess this hole configuration works just as well as ozzirts? He's got a couple rows of small ones towards the bottom and a couple rows (32 holes total) of bigger ones on the top portion close to the fire box.
I used the whole tube, the top half sticks up inside the bottom drum. I had always intended to cut it off but never got around to it. The hole configuration in my heater works well. The reason I use such small holes (1.95mm) is to reduce the noise but of course you need more of them. Good luck with your build.
Ahh I definitely like the bit about being more quiet. And I wasn't looking forward to cutting the top half of that tube off either so that's cool it works well with it like that.
Nice looking unit you've built there. Thanks for the info.
This looks easy to make and out of heavy enough metal to last a while. Could I have a set of plans to build this. I have a bunch of oil stored up and I would like to get started.
Yes it is easy to make and It should last for ever. I don't have any plans to offer you, just what you see on the video. Have a read through some of my previous comments and you should get a fair idea of what to do.
Ok, are these drums from a semi? Or is the whole unit a lot smaller than I think it is? What is the bottom part made out of? Looks like a cast iron pressure cooker, lol?
The drums are the standard 16.5'' trailer brake drum. The pot is a 4.5 quart cast iron camp oven and the burner tube is a cylinder liner out of a Cummins signature diesel engine.
Got it! It's all becoming so clear now. I just put my order in for some of the parts. My father is a master diesel tech. He's says those parts are very easy to come by. Thanks a lot for answerinf my questions. I think your heater is one of the simpler and nicer looking designs. Is you oil under any pressure or just gravity fed?
The paint work is starting to look pretty untidy. If I can find some high temp paint that I can brush on (don't fancy spraying in the house) I will do so to tidy it up a bit. The last paint I used was only good to 300c which I now know just isn't up to it.
I know what you mean about having over spray in the house. I sprayed mine before i reassembled it, but did do a touch up with a spray can once I got it inside. I used an old cotton sheet to stop most of the over spray.
The paint is available from automotive shops as header paint, made in USA under the brand name "Armor" High Heat 1200degF.
It smells a bit when first heated and needs 300degF., to cure.
Sorry, no plans. It's all very simple really. Just grab some scrap brake drums, a scrap cylinder liner for the burner tube and a camp oven for the pot. Drill a few holes and throw it all together. It will work but you will need to spend some time tuning the air and fuel flow to give the required heat output for your application while maintaining a clean burn.
hi have you ever tried injecting (dripping very small droplets of water in with the oil in the second stage burner or even a steam vapour by utilising the preliminary burner with a water feed copper coiled pipe then fed in to the secondary burner on the angle iron feeder
No I havent tried water injection and Im not sure why I would. I understand the principles behind the use of water injection to suppress detonation in an internal combustion engine but what are the benefits of its use in this application? Can you please explain? I dont use an angle iron to deliver the oil to the pot; it just drips into the bottom.
This is true craftmanship,
In england you can get the needle valves online from bes.co.uk.
Is there an air vent form outside supplying the air or is it just sucking out of the room.
I notice Ozzirt put his in a case with a door on but there is no mention why it doesnt choke.
From a few experiments I noticed it takes a lot of air to keep engine oil burning clean.
madscientist4energy 2 months ago
@madscientist4energy It won't choke because there is a 12mm gap under the lower edge of the enclosure and the outer edge of the enclosed drip tray.
The square tubing forming the lower framework has horizontal angle grinder slots in the inside and it's plumbed into a 2.5lb CO2 extinguisher with 1/2" copper tube, in case of a fire.
ozzirt 2 weeks ago
wow nice greatings from germany .
TheOllifant 2 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hi take a look at my homemade waste oil burner it is easy to fire.
youtube.com/watch?v=2bKNpb6-FOU
this is prototyp 1 and it have some smoke but i have made prototyp 3 now and it is very clean.
perjan6666 9 months ago
Continued: Sorry about the rant! Simon I just wanted to know how you have attached the lid of the camp oven to the cylinder sleeve. Is it just welded and if so what type of rods did you use?
That sure is one classy looking heater.
luckydave2207 9 months ago
Hi, thanks for your comments. The lid is bolted to the sleeve from the under side with 4mm machine screws. There's plenty of meat (about 7mm) in the wall of the sleeve to drill and tap it. Thanks
uopminvest 9 months ago
Hi Simon,
I know Spike by email, I had built a fan forced heater. Very different to the model he built. It runs a white hot flame. The old guy that lives next door to me was a blacksmith and says the color of flame I had would be about 1500 degrees celsius. It heats my shed way to hot at an idle. The problem I had was the complexity in design and it takes about 30 minutes to disasemble to clean. After seeing your heater I am sold. Simple and effective.
luckydave2207 9 months ago
so how are you getting the oil to ignight ? is there a gas burner under the bowl?
bessy164 10 months ago
I put screwed up news paper and a fire starter in the pot, light it and then turn on the oil. After a few minutes the pot gets hot enough to keep it going once the news paper and fire stater have burnt out.
uopminvest 10 months ago
hi how have you got the oil lit? is the bowl burning or is it like on a wick?
bessy164 10 months ago
Hi, the oil drips into the pot and burns on its own without a wick. Thanks
uopminvest 10 months ago
thanks for that Simon i,ll see if i can find one.I have already tried to find one but the ones i have seen seem to be for the american market,especially the drip feed valve with the sight glass. I see the needle valve by Nebojsa looks interesting i might have a try at that .
derek876544 1 year ago
hi, I made a motherearth oil heater a few months ago to heat my workshop which it does fine cold outside/degrees sweating inside. i am having trouble regulating it with a ball valve in line at the moment . I see on your comments you have a needle valve ,and i was wondering where you got this? i,m not too over the moon with my mother earth and was thinking of knocking up a similar heater to yours but i,ll try the flow first. the valve will be ready for mine. Derek when i make it
derek876544 1 year ago
Hi Derek, you will definitely need a valve that will enable fine control of the oil flow given the relatively low fuel requirements of the heater and using a needle valve is really the only simple way to do that. I don't recall where I got my valve but any engineering supplier should be able to help. Thanks
uopminvest 1 year ago
No doubt that this thing works very good!
I just have one question: Does it smells hot wast oil inside the house? That is the only drawback I can think of with this setup.
2550osiosterdalen 1 year ago
Hi, no smell what so ever comes from the burner. Thanks
uopminvest 1 year ago
Thx , keep up the cool projects .
Ratridez 1 year ago
thanks a mil. Hope to start soon. Regards Mike
washers58 1 year ago
Great unit. Any pictures im in the process of making one. Mike
washers58 1 year ago
Hi Mike, I don't have any photos sorry and the heater is in storage at the moment so I can't take any. Good luck with your build.
uopminvest 1 year ago
@uopminvest
Hi, can you tell me if the top brake drum is welded to the bottom one and where did you get the pan from and what is it made from. Mike
washers58 1 year ago
Hi Mike, the drums are not welded together, the top drum is located on three steel pins that are in the bottom one and they are held together with gravity. The pan is a camp oven and made from cast iron. It's just a pot with a lid and used for cooking over an open fire. You should be able to get one from a camping or outdoors store.
uopminvest 1 year ago
How hot can this heater get ? Building one for my 24 x 24 shop , not insulated really well .
Ratridez 1 year ago
Hi, you could build it to do the job, it's just a case of feeding in more oil and air. The difficult part is getting the mixture right which is done by increasing or decreasing the amount or size of the holes in the burner tube. It takes a bit of trial and error but you should be able to get it to burn clean. Thanks
uopminvest 1 year ago
@uopminvest Ok , thx bro . Love this design , looks like a factory job .
Ratridez 1 year ago
@uopminvest
washers58 1 year ago
@uopminvest
Really nice unit. Do you have any photos. Am in the process of making one
Mike in Ireland
washers58 1 year ago
@washers58 hi mike im in kildare let us know how it turns out for u or if u hit any snags .
fergwaggle 1 year ago
@uopminvest
washers58 1 year ago
sorry about below, just read the back posts.
one question, how did you secure the hanging flywheel baffle inside the top brake drum.
archaslade 1 year ago
Hi, the flywheel baffle hangs from the top plate by a couple of strips of steel about 40mm x 6mm and about 200mm long. They are welded directly to the flywheel and plate. Thanks
uopminvest 1 year ago
Hello, I wanted to know if there are any drawings out there for this heater. also inside the brake drum chamber is there any type of baffle or does the flame just free flow up into the brake drum chamber and then into the chimney.
Thanks
archaslade 1 year ago
I have built a Roger Sanders heater and am not very happy with its output. I am in the process of gathering up items to build this heater. I have a liner, pot and brake drums. I intend to turn the brake drums on a lathe so they fit together like Spike's drums. The rest of the heater will follow what you have done.
I have two questions, the first, how is your cast oven lid fastened to the liner and the liner to the lower drum?
Also what type of spring are you using under the cast oven?
dngspot 1 year ago
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dngspot 1 year ago
Comment removed
dngspot 1 year ago
Can you list hole sizes and approximate spacing? Thanks.
Kntryhart 1 year ago
Hi, I have the heater packed away at the moment as I have moved house and not currently using it. From memory, the holes are spaced approximately 10mm apart and there's about 520 of them. The hole size is 1.95mm. Thanks for you interest.
uopminvest 1 year ago
EXCELLENT! I like the fact that it is much quieter than other units out here. This is certainly on my must build list! Thanks for all the information.
Kntryhart 1 year ago
hi, love the concept of your burner, we're in the process of making one , and would like to know if your drip feed viewer is a glass encased one or just an open viewer , thanks, regards john
jonneebegoode 1 year ago
Hi John, the view window is simply a hole drilled in the side of the brass fitting that the tube fits into. Good luck with your build.
uopminvest 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hi, I have a question. Would you consider building and selling one of these to me? How much would it cost, and how much would shipping be to USA zip 54401 in Wisconsin? I know you can build it better than me and now know some tweeks to make it work very well. Tx. Bob C
bobWsterguy 1 year ago
Hi, I have a question. Would you consider building and selling one of these to me? How much would it cost, and how much would shipping be to USA zip 54401 in Wisconsin? I know you can build it better than me and now know some tweeks to make it work very well. Tx. Bob C
bobWsterguy 1 year ago
you mention no visible emmissions from the flue,however I think its worth mentioning to viewers that they must ensure exhaust vents must be positioned outside, as I am sure if one were to place a Co2 detector at the flue's exit it would sound quickly. Non-visible doesn't mean non-existant. Nice set up mate!
justaman6972 2 years ago
Nice unit! I noticed your oil pan has 2 handles. Does the bottom disconnect from the top pan so you can clean out the soot more easily? I'm currently modifying the firepot of an old fuel oil room heater to burn waste motor oil.
railbuggy 2 years ago
The bottom handle is attached to the spring loaded cradle that holds the pot tightly up against the lid. The top handle is attached to the pot. To remove the pot, simply push the bottom handle down and lift the pot out. Good luck with your room heater conversion.
uopminvest 2 years ago
thanks very much for all your info i cant wait to gather up some material and get started building ,no doubt i will be back in touch
thanks again
steve
mcmahons028 2 years ago
hi again how do you fix pot to lid
mcmahons028 2 years ago
The pot is simply held up against the lid with a large coil spring that is positioned directly under the cradle that the pot sits on.
uopminvest 2 years ago
hi again iam just wondering what dia of feed pipe are you useing thanks steve
mcmahons028 2 years ago
The tube is 10mm steel but you could get away with 6mm. The main delivery pipe from the tank is 19mm plastic.
uopminvest 2 years ago
excellent the best heater i have seen,do you have any plans info great job
mcmahons028 2 years ago
Thanks for that. I don't have any plans sorry. Have a read through all the previous comments on here and you should get a fair idea of how it's constructed.
uopminvest 2 years ago
Thanks for the quick reply.
I surely dont think it needs anything.
my thinking is purely economic.
Increasing the mass inside the stove could replace your baffle and if the heater is turned off at night maybe radiate heat longer?
If the heater is optimized maybe you burn less oil? Not that the oil is expensive... burning less oil means collecting it less often and less you need to handle and store for winter.
Thats All.
I love it... already have mine in the works!
Thanks again
builtrodewreckedit 2 years ago
What would you think about cutting a 3rd drum into quarters. Put the quartered pieces inside all jumbled up. Do you think that may help swirl the gasses around a bit and radiate more heat?
builtrodewreckedit 2 years ago
Yes it probably would help but I'm not sure that it's necessary as it works pretty well as it is. Thanks
uopminvest 2 years ago
Really nice looking heater.
Spike's design looks to work well but the changes you've made make yours attractive.
Nice workmanship
need to DRUM up the pieces for mine
builtrodewreckedit 2 years ago
Thanks for that. Good luck with your build.
uopminvest 2 years ago
were would i get plans for building one my shop is cold lol
gsjssss 2 years ago
I don't have any plans sorry but if you have a read through the previous comments you should get a fair idea of how it is constructed. Thanks.
uopminvest 2 years ago
Great Heater. I had a konskilde waste oil heater some years ago worked on same prnciple. Do you have baffles in between the two brake drums to stop flames gooing up the flue? What is the lid for the cast iron pot made from? Is that just mild steel? Do you just light it with some diesel to start it off? How much higher than the fire do you have your oil tank or is it pump feed? Thanks :-)
biggo618 2 years ago
There's a baffle which hangs around mid height of the top drum. The flames don't hit it but it helps direct the heat out to the drum rather that shooting straight up the flue. The baffle is just a flywheel from a car engine. The lid is cast and is what comes with pot. The oil is gravity fed from a header tank in the garage and has a head of around 1.6 metres. The header tank is topped up from the main storage tank with an electric pump every day or two. Thanks
uopminvest 2 years ago
A few calculatoins:
1 gallon produces 140,000 BTU (at 80% efficency)
1 gallon = 3.785 litres
1 litre = 36984 BTU = 39 020 kilojoules
Your burner's "power" (I can't find the right word): 39 020 * 0.6 / 3600 =~~ 6.5kW.
So your burner's output would be around 6.5kW at approx. 80% efficency and ~4kW at 50% efficency.
tacek97 2 years ago
36985BTU X 0.293071WH = 10839.231WH, or im i wrong ? (the "X" is multiply)
Dieselolds 2 years ago
You're right. I have no idea how I got theese strange numbers :)
36 984 BTU = 10.8389405 kilowatt hours, therefore, it's 10.8kW not 6.5...
Btw, I'd really like to see at least some sketches about theese burner...
tacek97 2 years ago
Yes it woud be fun to see some sketches but the KW is maybe after what you burn in them.
Dieselolds 2 years ago
Regarding my previous comments, if anyone wants to jump in and correct me, please do so. This heater produces more than enough to heat my 140 square meter home. If you want more or less BTU's, just alter the amount of secondary combustion air so you can burn more or less oil while still maintaining a good clean burn. Thanks
uopminvest 2 years ago
140sq meters thats great. I will be heating approx half that, 750sq feet, (70 sq meters). In a cold US climate
Thanks Again, I will leave you alone now.
4vermont 2 years ago
I'm sorry but I don't know the answer to that and I'm not sure how to work it out. However, if we consider that 1 litre of waste mineral oil contains maybe 34000 BTU's and this heater in its current state of tune will burn up to 1.5 litres per hour that would equate to 51000 BTU's. However, this would only be the case if the burner was 100% efficient which is certainly is not. If we consider that it may be 50% efficient that would give us 25500 BTU's. Thanks
uopminvest 2 years ago
Couple of questions.
Is that perforated steel screen above the cast pot? Or is there glass in there? I see your air input in through the 4 or so driled holes. Just wondering if is air tight except for the drilled holes? This is great!! Thanks
4vermont 2 years ago
The perforated tube is a cylinder liner out of a Cummins Signature diesel engine that has been drilled out to allow secondary combustion air in. The cast pot is basically air tight. The few holes holes in the lid allow in the primary combustion air. Thanks
uopminvest 2 years ago
Thank You
4vermont 2 years ago
Thanks for your response, I was not getting it at first but now I do.
One more question. Do you know the BTU rating of this unit? I know you built it but wondering if there is a calculation to get a ballpark BTU figure.
4vermont 2 years ago
I just got some diesel cylinder inserts and I'm building my heater now - it looks like you and ozzirt just used the lower half of the tube is that correct? You cut it off just above that first flange? The lower portion of the tube is thinner.
Also, I guess this hole configuration works just as well as ozzirts? He's got a couple rows of small ones towards the bottom and a couple rows (32 holes total) of bigger ones on the top portion close to the fire box.
yonmoore 2 years ago
I used the whole tube, the top half sticks up inside the bottom drum. I had always intended to cut it off but never got around to it. The hole configuration in my heater works well. The reason I use such small holes (1.95mm) is to reduce the noise but of course you need more of them. Good luck with your build.
uopminvest 2 years ago
Ahh I definitely like the bit about being more quiet. And I wasn't looking forward to cutting the top half of that tube off either so that's cool it works well with it like that.
Nice looking unit you've built there. Thanks for the info.
yonmoore 2 years ago
This is great!! Well Done and thanks for sharing.
I guess there is one good thing about my truck taking 15 quarts of oil to fill. (Navistar)
4vermont 2 years ago
This looks easy to make and out of heavy enough metal to last a while. Could I have a set of plans to build this. I have a bunch of oil stored up and I would like to get started.
Thanks
sherwina11 2 years ago
Yes it is easy to make and It should last for ever. I don't have any plans to offer you, just what you see on the video. Have a read through some of my previous comments and you should get a fair idea of what to do.
uopminvest 2 years ago
Did you use three drums with two being uncut and the one it the middle cut to make a ring or what?
MrNicks24 2 years ago
The main body is made out of two complete identical drums. The rings are just part of the drums with nothing being cut out or added.
uopminvest 2 years ago
Ok, are these drums from a semi? Or is the whole unit a lot smaller than I think it is? What is the bottom part made out of? Looks like a cast iron pressure cooker, lol?
beardicky 2 years ago
The drums are the standard 16.5'' trailer brake drum. The pot is a 4.5 quart cast iron camp oven and the burner tube is a cylinder liner out of a Cummins signature diesel engine.
uopminvest 2 years ago
Got it! It's all becoming so clear now. I just put my order in for some of the parts. My father is a master diesel tech. He's says those parts are very easy to come by. Thanks a lot for answerinf my questions. I think your heater is one of the simpler and nicer looking designs. Is you oil under any pressure or just gravity fed?
beardicky 2 years ago
It's all very simple and you can make it out of junk. The oil is gravity fed and a needle valve is used to control the flow.
uopminvest 2 years ago
Looks good. I'm making one for my garage and maybe for my basement .
MrNicks24 2 years ago
Comment removed
brain041 2 years ago
looks GrEaT
brain041 2 years ago
WOW.. Nice job!
shopken1 2 years ago
It's still the neatest and best finished home heater on YouTube. It makes mine look pretty "agricultural"
It's a great credit to you Simon. I have since included several of your innovations into my home heater, it's getting better.... :-)
ozzirt 2 years ago
Thanks Spike,
The paint work is starting to look pretty untidy. If I can find some high temp paint that I can brush on (don't fancy spraying in the house) I will do so to tidy it up a bit. The last paint I used was only good to 300c which I now know just isn't up to it.
uopminvest 2 years ago
I know what you mean about having over spray in the house. I sprayed mine before i reassembled it, but did do a touch up with a spray can once I got it inside. I used an old cotton sheet to stop most of the over spray.
The paint is available from automotive shops as header paint, made in USA under the brand name "Armor" High Heat 1200degF.
It smells a bit when first heated and needs 300degF., to cure.
It has a really nice Matt Black finish.
ozzirt 2 years ago
fab looking burner , have you plans that you could share with an irishman.
coljenpam 2 years ago
Sorry, no plans. It's all very simple really. Just grab some scrap brake drums, a scrap cylinder liner for the burner tube and a camp oven for the pot. Drill a few holes and throw it all together. It will work but you will need to spend some time tuning the air and fuel flow to give the required heat output for your application while maintaining a clean burn.
uopminvest 2 years ago
hi have you ever tried injecting (dripping very small droplets of water in with the oil in the second stage burner or even a steam vapour by utilising the preliminary burner with a water feed copper coiled pipe then fed in to the secondary burner on the angle iron feeder
honda4004 2 years ago
honda4004
No I havent tried water injection and Im not sure why I would. I understand the principles behind the use of water injection to suppress detonation in an internal combustion engine but what are the benefits of its use in this application? Can you please explain? I dont use an angle iron to deliver the oil to the pot; it just drips into the bottom.
uopminvest 2 years ago