It appears that YT won't let me post a web address in a comment. For a good discussion on crosscut saw filing and related topics, visit crosscutsawyer(dot)com
Anderson Gauge: Set the filing plate of your gauge high and do a raker at one end of the saw. Place a straight edge across the two teeth on either side of the raker and measure that height with a feeler gauge. Repeat until you have the height you want then finish all rakers. The numbered plate is Anderson's version of a pin gauge.
I haven't filed any yet. I do have some saw sets I got off of ebay, maybe some day I'll try and take this on. One quick tip for rust removal, brake fluid works well if you don't leave it on too long.
wow, gives us an idea of how the old lumber jacks had to be so precise and accurate to make their work as efficient as possible, not just sitting down and hogging metal off the saw with an old file. As a collector of old crosscut saws, I apprecitate the time and effort it took to put together this video very much.
I'm new to filing and your video is lifesaver who wants to learn! Thanks for taking the time to do such an informative job. Question on the Anderson No. 3 raker gauge. How to initially set the slotted-angled plate to bring the rakers down the correct amount? What are the numbers on the opposite plate for?
If your saw has a consistent arc (not always the case), place the jointer on the saw and see how many teeth are making contact with the file (shine a light up under the file for a better look). If too flat or too curved, adjust the jointer's screw until all teeth are touching the file. Better to be a little less curved than too much, as the center of the file will ride the curvature as you run it over the teeth. WEAR GLOVES, as files are famous for slipping off the jointer.
I was wondering if you have a version of how you sharpen crosscut saws that can be printed off. It would be helpful to have a paper version to bring into the shop with us.
No, but I suppose you could stop the video and make a screen grab (ctrl+print) of each frame and paste them into a Word document. Select the frames you want then print the whole doc. If you try this, run the video in HD as it will give you a better quality image.
I just bought a saw nigh about identical to this one. It's a disston. The seller didn't tell me that 2 of the teeth were slightly chipped. maybe 1/16th of an inch on one and slightly more on another. Looks like I'ma need to get a jointer. Do you have any recommendations? All of my saws are 5 foot or under, so something for smaller saws would be prudent I think. Thanks for the good video, I've watched it several times.
The Simonds #342 is a good combination jointer, as it also has a swaging pin and a raker filing plate. The raker pin and filing plate plate may be too wide for your small saw though.
@PATCsawyer Is this is a situation where I am best off to buy a named brand tool like a simonds, or will any generic jointer with all the parts present be just as usable?
You will not likely find a non-named brand tool for this job. Surf Ebay, as there are lots of crosscut saw tools up for auction. Other than the Simonds 342, The Atkins #3 and #4 are execellent raker gauges, but hard to come by, Simonds 550 and Galt 460 are good for small saws, and Atkins #15 is a good pin gauge. I've heard that Disston made a good gauge, but I don't own one.
I've not used that method, but vinegar is a known rust remover. Depending on how rusty/pitted the saw is, you may still need to follow up the vinegar treatment with oil and light sandpaper or steel wool to get it clean.
My 10 minute slide show wasn't meant to be the last word on saw filing. This is something you learn by doing. I'm eight years into filing, and every saw is an education.
great video i just picked up two saws one is a felling saw and the other is a bucking saw and i want to redo them so i can use them this will help alot both have a champion-tooth pattern the teeth are in good shape not as bad as the one in the video thanx for posting ttyl
Concave side goes down on the anvil over some THIN material that will absorb the hammer strike. Work slowly on this, and don't hammer too hard. You can easily over correct. Modern saws will bend and warp without much effort; older saws will take more work. Other filers may have their own way of dealing with bowed blades. If you can find one, pick his/her brain.
After such a restoration process...what would you resell such a repaired one-man saw for? Do you approach it from a 'restored antique' perspective, or more towards new-saw pricing?
I've never sold a saw as a business venture. I recondition them for trail overseers. Perhaps someone who's interested in traditional tools, or living off the grid would be a customer. I try to keep my price at the break even point which includes finding a good one, having it shipped, replacing hardware, making a new handle, adding a second handle, and making a sheath.
Thanks so much for posting this. This is one of the references I'm using in getting my first saw in shape. I just signed on for the Powell Mtn. Trail - hope to see you in the woods soon. I wonder why YouTube decided that a related video was 'Danish Girls Enjoying Beach Life In Copenhagen'. I missed the bikini section of your video.
I get most of my saws and tools on Ebay, though I have purchased some large 2-mans from The Axe Hole; I purchased my Gibbs jointer from the Crosscut Saw Company, as the originals are are too pricey; and I purchase my files from Warrensville Knife and File Inc.
John - The first saw is always the hardest. I tell people to start with a rummage sale beater and practice. Then put your good one in the vise and apply your own personal lessons learned. The raker swaging is a bit advanced and your saw will cut ok with straight rakers. It will run smoother with the straight ones though.
Great job! You've added to the much-needed documentation of traditional skills, which I think will be very accessible for more people (is the future?). I'm sharpening my own saws, in particular the 3-5 ft saws, since that's mostly what we're carrying in the backcountry in CO and AZ. Currently working on a saw in bad shape, similar to yours. Hope to "salvage" the saw, at times I've become a little down on it, not knowing where to go with things. You've helped me a ton in that regard John Nelson
Great video... I just started getting into cross-cut saws... was planning on putting them up at the cabin but decided to clean some up... I had been only using the ones that were already sharp... might now try and bring back one of the dull one
Thanks. I went looking for something like this when I first started filing, but there was nothing online at the time. So, I decided to make one myself.
It appears that YT won't let me post a web address in a comment. For a good discussion on crosscut saw filing and related topics, visit crosscutsawyer(dot)com
PATCsawyer 1 month ago
Anderson Gauge: Set the filing plate of your gauge high and do a raker at one end of the saw. Place a straight edge across the two teeth on either side of the raker and measure that height with a feeler gauge. Repeat until you have the height you want then finish all rakers. The numbered plate is Anderson's version of a pin gauge.
PATCsawyer 1 month ago
I haven't filed any yet. I do have some saw sets I got off of ebay, maybe some day I'll try and take this on. One quick tip for rust removal, brake fluid works well if you don't leave it on too long.
jcorb3380 1 month ago
wow, gives us an idea of how the old lumber jacks had to be so precise and accurate to make their work as efficient as possible, not just sitting down and hogging metal off the saw with an old file. As a collector of old crosscut saws, I apprecitate the time and effort it took to put together this video very much.
jcorb3380 1 month ago
@jcorb3380 Do you file the saws you collect?
PATCsawyer 1 month ago
Hi,
I'm new to filing and your video is lifesaver who wants to learn! Thanks for taking the time to do such an informative job. Question on the Anderson No. 3 raker gauge. How to initially set the slotted-angled plate to bring the rakers down the correct amount? What are the numbers on the opposite plate for?
Williamolsenjr 2 months ago
@Williamolsenjr YT won't let me post my full comment, but for some reason lets me make this response. Must be a bad character somewhere.
PATCsawyer 1 month ago
wow, i have the same florescent lamp on my bench
buzz
bluetoad2001 2 months ago
One last question! How do you know you are impart the right amount of curvature in the file to match the arc of the saw?
aguineapig 1 year ago
If your saw has a consistent arc (not always the case), place the jointer on the saw and see how many teeth are making contact with the file (shine a light up under the file for a better look). If too flat or too curved, adjust the jointer's screw until all teeth are touching the file. Better to be a little less curved than too much, as the center of the file will ride the curvature as you run it over the teeth. WEAR GLOVES, as files are famous for slipping off the jointer.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
Hello!
I was wondering if you have a version of how you sharpen crosscut saws that can be printed off. It would be helpful to have a paper version to bring into the shop with us.
Thanks!
ameliaupnorth 1 year ago
No, but I suppose you could stop the video and make a screen grab (ctrl+print) of each frame and paste them into a Word document. Select the frames you want then print the whole doc. If you try this, run the video in HD as it will give you a better quality image.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
I just bought a saw nigh about identical to this one. It's a disston. The seller didn't tell me that 2 of the teeth were slightly chipped. maybe 1/16th of an inch on one and slightly more on another. Looks like I'ma need to get a jointer. Do you have any recommendations? All of my saws are 5 foot or under, so something for smaller saws would be prudent I think. Thanks for the good video, I've watched it several times.
aguineapig 1 year ago
The Simonds #342 is a good combination jointer, as it also has a swaging pin and a raker filing plate. The raker pin and filing plate plate may be too wide for your small saw though.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
@PATCsawyer Is this is a situation where I am best off to buy a named brand tool like a simonds, or will any generic jointer with all the parts present be just as usable?
aguineapig 1 year ago
You will not likely find a non-named brand tool for this job. Surf Ebay, as there are lots of crosscut saw tools up for auction. Other than the Simonds 342, The Atkins #3 and #4 are execellent raker gauges, but hard to come by, Simonds 550 and Galt 460 are good for small saws, and Atkins #15 is a good pin gauge. I've heard that Disston made a good gauge, but I don't own one.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
Ive been soaking an old crosscut in white vinegar for the past three days to remove years of rust. Do you think this will harm the saw?
DeltaBeav 1 year ago
I've not used that method, but vinegar is a known rust remover. Depending on how rusty/pitted the saw is, you may still need to follow up the vinegar treatment with oil and light sandpaper or steel wool to get it clean.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
Where is the sound?
mizz31 1 year ago
Good for beginners.
gixxersdad52 1 year ago
My 10 minute slide show wasn't meant to be the last word on saw filing. This is something you learn by doing. I'm eight years into filing, and every saw is an education.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
Great! This is very helpful. A question..when you say "bow side down" (straighten the saw) do you mean concave or convex side down? Thanks!
grougier 1 year ago
great video i just picked up two saws one is a felling saw and the other is a bucking saw and i want to redo them so i can use them this will help alot both have a champion-tooth pattern the teeth are in good shape not as bad as the one in the video thanx for posting ttyl
sterling
bloodmoonwidow 1 year ago
Concave side goes down on the anvil over some THIN material that will absorb the hammer strike. Work slowly on this, and don't hammer too hard. You can easily over correct. Modern saws will bend and warp without much effort; older saws will take more work. Other filers may have their own way of dealing with bowed blades. If you can find one, pick his/her brain.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
After such a restoration process...what would you resell such a repaired one-man saw for? Do you approach it from a 'restored antique' perspective, or more towards new-saw pricing?
mountaindweller44 1 year ago
I've never sold a saw as a business venture. I recondition them for trail overseers. Perhaps someone who's interested in traditional tools, or living off the grid would be a customer. I try to keep my price at the break even point which includes finding a good one, having it shipped, replacing hardware, making a new handle, adding a second handle, and making a sheath.
PATCsawyer 1 year ago
Thanks so much for posting this. This is one of the references I'm using in getting my first saw in shape. I just signed on for the Powell Mtn. Trail - hope to see you in the woods soon. I wonder why YouTube decided that a related video was 'Danish Girls Enjoying Beach Life In Copenhagen'. I missed the bikini section of your video.
vitamaltz 2 years ago
There is a link on my last slide for Alan Boyko. He is an expert filer and sells reconditioned crosscut saws, both one and two person.
PATCsawyer 2 years ago
Very informative video! I am also getting into using crosscut saws, where do you buy your supplies? (Files, etc.)
SuperCubPA18 2 years ago
I get most of my saws and tools on Ebay, though I have purchased some large 2-mans from The Axe Hole; I purchased my Gibbs jointer from the Crosscut Saw Company, as the originals are are too pricey; and I purchase my files from Warrensville Knife and File Inc.
PATCsawyer 2 years ago
Thanks!
SuperCubPA18 2 years ago
John - The first saw is always the hardest. I tell people to start with a rummage sale beater and practice. Then put your good one in the vise and apply your own personal lessons learned. The raker swaging is a bit advanced and your saw will cut ok with straight rakers. It will run smoother with the straight ones though.
PATCsawyer 2 years ago
Great job! You've added to the much-needed documentation of traditional skills, which I think will be very accessible for more people (is the future?). I'm sharpening my own saws, in particular the 3-5 ft saws, since that's mostly what we're carrying in the backcountry in CO and AZ. Currently working on a saw in bad shape, similar to yours. Hope to "salvage" the saw, at times I've become a little down on it, not knowing where to go with things. You've helped me a ton in that regard John Nelson
FtValleyPS 2 years ago
Great video... I just started getting into cross-cut saws... was planning on putting them up at the cabin but decided to clean some up... I had been only using the ones that were already sharp... might now try and bring back one of the dull one
buffcleb 2 years ago
Thanks. I went looking for something like this when I first started filing, but there was nothing online at the time. So, I decided to make one myself.
PATCsawyer 2 years ago
Excellent Video
John Starling
RufusTowhee 2 years ago
Dan,
Thank you so much for this information. Images are excellant! I have been looking for this for some time.
Dennis K.
DenKnob 2 years ago