Added: 3 years ago
From: HHO4ALL
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  • wow thats a good hho gen. hey mr. hho4all can you try also a stainless plates !!!

    have a good day !!

  • @boholhunter29 Thank you, I have tried plates after I played around with the stainless cups. I was surprised when I had better results with the cups.

  • @boholhunter29 those cups are 316 stainless steel and i GOT SOME just like them at wal-mart cheap get like 5 cups to a set for something like $1.99 and they are brushed stainless, and yes I have put them in simular sequence but used 40 cups hard to find all thread nylon that long but found some online, been 3 years ago used in Sch-40 PVC

  • I notice it is like an antenna array. The neutrals between the anode and cathode. I wonder if it will amplify with a log scaled array?

  • Marty, we need to prime the flux capacitor.

  • @scismgenie

    1.21 Jigawatts!!! The only thing that can generate that much power is a bold of lightning!

  • Hey I was wondering how much amperage it is drawing and also would this be enough output for a small torch

  • @legogunguy001

    I got it up to 12A and it produced 3/4 LPM. You will need atleast 1.5 to 2 LPM to run a torch.

  • OK I think that I will run two cells and a little more amperage so hopefully I will get a quality torch

  • @legogunguy001 You should use the flipcup redesign that I used from Video 17. It produced over 1 LPM. Neg Neutral (2 stacked) Neutral (2 stacked) Pos Neutral (2 stacked) Neutral (2 stacked) Neg This will give you less than 2 volts per cup and will keep the amperage and heat to a minimum. I hope this helps.
  • Ok I will do that

  • looks like a great design to me.....but where in the world do you get the stainless cups??? i tried looking in home depot and all i was directed to were stainless steel paint pans :(

  • Walmart = 4 cups for $.99

    This design was not efficient, so I retired it.

    Go to my channel and Watch Video 15.

    If you send me a personal message with your e-mail address, I will send you the plans.

  • dallorstore 2 fo 1$

  • aside from my first comment what is the side effect from this? does it create liquid oxygen if ran long enough or does it just evaporate the water creating the gas and expelling the water elsewhere?

  • It will not create liquid oxygen, because it only splits the water molecules into a gas form.

    2 Parts Hydrogen & 1 Part Oxygen.

    When burned the gas will return to its original state... water.

  • thanks for replying, wanting to build one myself and just was kind of confused on the actual process of what happens done a bit of research, and with some basic electrical knowledge anyone can build one of these.

  • Anyone with a little creativity and determination can build one. I don't have any special electrical training, but I have studied countless hours to understand the basic HHO cell design and the different methods to get better production.

    My best advice is watch as many videos on the subject as possible and take detailed notes. Don't be afraid to experiment with new ideas and always try to build a working unit from those ideas.

  • the old carbide lanterns used rocks and water maybe use in bubblier ? there's a filter that separates water from gasoline leaving water behind if one wanted to power gasoline engine on only hydrogen would stacking stainless steel bowls work

  • not rocks, carbide lol when mixed withw ater it gives off a gas that is flammable not an expert os i dont know what gas it is but theyre dangerous as hell saw several of them explode.

  • Actually I used 1 quart SS feed buckets because of the surface area of the side walls. But still, Its amazing the output of hydrogen from such a small area. way to go!

  • Thank you,

    I'm sure if you were to cut the cups and roll them out flat, they would probably be about the same surface area as the stainless wall plates.

  • Yes those little condiment cups do work good.You'll find that any with flaws will split. The assembly will fit nicely inside a two inch PVC pipe . are the cups in parallel or series.? You should also try the Dog Dish cells.

  • Smaller containers NICE... I like small instead of huge

  • Small is good and means way less water.

    So I guess that would be a good thing, because you don't want to be electrically charging a gallon of water to run a fuel cell.

    Plus it doesn't take as much electrolyte to run the cell.

  • Hey that cell sure looks familiar! you should try the larger ones (Dog Dish). But the small one works the best for its size. Way to go! Testing a condiment cup series cell showed it was more efficient than a Boyce Series Cell. also, a 2" PVC pipe makes a perfect container for the CC Cell.

  • i've heard the dog dish idea a few times, but they are way too big to be practical. Fun for testing, but I have a ford focus and there isn't a lot of room under the hood. That is why I'm focusing my efforts on trying to get the best output possible from a small fuel cell. After all I can always connect several cells together to get better output.

    You are absolutely right about PVC pipe. I'm working on a 2.5" wide x 4" tall clear pvc enclosure, because 2" was too small to fit the cups.

  • You are creating heat because your neutrals are wrong. You didn't isolate the neutrals from each other. If you measure the voltage you will notice that the voltage on your stacked neutral cups is far above 2 volt and then the cell will create more heat then it should. Adding more neutrals with no spacing is a waste of time if you want to make a useful cell. The reason why you have to use isolated neutrals is to create an even voltage drop from around 2 volts per cup or plate.

  • A different enclosure is not the way to go, you can get rid of the heat by making a cell that is build the wright way. A hydrogen cell that is working properly should not get much warmer as 110 degrees Fahrenheit. That is when you use 5 separated, isolated neutrals with one positive and one negative. Stacked neutrals will react as one single neutral, do your measurements.

  • I figured this was the case, because my neutral cups are touching each other they become one neutral cup. That would mean that my 15 cup cell is actually a 3 cup cell and the positive negative and neutral are all using 4 volts.

    I'll try reducing the number of neutrals and inserting spacers.

  • what if I have 10 neutrals, but only have spacers inbetween every 2 neutrals? This way I would be keeping the cups to 2 volts each, but would have more reactive surface area.

  • That is something that is worth to try.

    The smack booster makes use of that configuration. (check this channel from Eletrikride). But you know for sure that it is more productive when you can measure the HHO output. When you can measure the output you can calculate the efficiency called MMW, (milliliters per minute per used watt). The water temperature is also important because you get different outcomes with different water temperatures. The gas expands drastically when it gets warmer....

  • WOW! Impressive set great job!

  • Thanks, I found my tupperware that got melted.

    I'll have to put together a video of what not to do, so everyone can see the importance of using an enclosure that is capable of handling high temperatures.

  • That is something that is worth to try.

    The smack booster makes use of that configuration. (check this channel from Eletrikride). But you know for sure that it is more productive when you can measure the HHO output. When you can measure the output you can calculate the efficiency called MMW, (milliliters per minute per used watt). The water temperature is also important because you get different outcomes with different water temperatures. The gas expands drastically when it gets warmer....

  • and then it looks like you are producing more HHO gas but in fact it is the same amount of HHO gas. It only looks like more HHO gas when the water is warm. My teacher always said that you only know for sure when you do measurements. Keep up the good work though, you are learning fast :-)

  • I took your advice and reconfigured my cell as follows: + NN NN NN NN NN -

    It does not produce as much as before, but it isn't bad. The best part is that the connectors and the container never got warm during the past 4 hours I've had it running.

    I did have to add more KOH to get similar output. Instead of 1/4 teaspoon, I'm using a 1/2 teaspoon.

    I'll be sure to record the output and give credit where it is due. You helped me out big time!

  • Smack is the Man! I've been watching his videos for almost a year now.

    I built several other fuel cells before using the cups, but all I was doing was copying someone else's work, so I really didn't learn anything. I still have my Water4Gas (garbage), sirHOAX Lowes Clamshell, a Smack Cell knockoff, and I even tried to put together a replica of the EBN Dry Cell.

    But only having bits and pieces of the puzzle makes it difficult to know why or how to get results.

    Thank you for all of you help.

  • Awesome cell!!! Does your water ever turn a little brown with those cups? Also, how many amps are you pulling?

  • So far the water has not turned brown. With other cells I've gotten light brown water.

    I am still waiting on an Amp meter that I ordered online, but I know for certain that it is running less than 15 Amps. The reason that I'm certain it is below 15 Amps, is because I have a 15 Breaker that never popped after 2 hours of running the cell.

  • Your designs are very impressive. Can you try (while waiting for your amp meter to arrive) to replace this 15 amp fuse with 10 or 5? This will you some clues:-)

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