Hi there. Only watched to 2:01, but I see one major issue. Your coils are probably fine (in number)- more is better than less, and particularly if you've got a small amount of coolant (as you have in that coffee can). BUT you need to make sure the entire coil is sloping downward. Water seeks level and will pool at any zero slope. That pooled water will block new vapor from coming through.
Fix the slope of the condenser coils and you're on your way.
Try looking up water cooler on youtube. For example making a radiator to recirculate the water in the can and cool it. Also if the water in the can is giving off too much steam put the cap on the can. Yes I do realize you probably alrready thought of this:)
Lately I've not even bothered putting water in the can. Actually I don't use this setup much because as it sits now it just creates too much back pressure. I need to remove at least half of the copper coil, I figure, and give the remaining stuff more of an incline to help it drain, because it does not drain well on its own. I had been using ice chiseled out of the deep freeze in it ;)
@Sojaofdapepo thats wet fine sand like is used for foundy practice. Altho I doubt anyone would fill a coil like that with sand for bending. try cerrobend or bendalloy, prolly much better than old hacks like sand! dgrdesignsDOTcoDOTuk
When running flat out the Jensen's usually maintain between 8-10PSI. They'll build up to about 20 before the check valve starts to vent steam.
Have a look at the Jensen 50 or 51 (not here: I can't afford either..). They have feed water pumps that keep the boiler full during running. Condensate, though, has some oil in it, which isn't good for the boiler (makes a mess inside), so I don't reuse it.
Hi there. Only watched to 2:01, but I see one major issue. Your coils are probably fine (in number)- more is better than less, and particularly if you've got a small amount of coolant (as you have in that coffee can). BUT you need to make sure the entire coil is sloping downward. Water seeks level and will pool at any zero slope. That pooled water will block new vapor from coming through.
Fix the slope of the condenser coils and you're on your way.
spottersjoshua 2 years ago
Thanks. At some point I'm going to remove a few feet of copper so that it can be sloped better. What I have in there now is overkill, I think.
MisterOcclusion 2 years ago
Also as I don't know of a whole lot of high heat tubing types what kind are you using
Anonymous660 2 years ago
Oh... The rubber tubing is just 1/8"ID silicone stuff, sold as fuel line for RC aircraft. The rest is just generic copper from the hardware store.
The silicone stuff is great. Doesn't break down, doesn't melt, lasts forever :)
MisterOcclusion 2 years ago
Try looking up water cooler on youtube. For example making a radiator to recirculate the water in the can and cool it. Also if the water in the can is giving off too much steam put the cap on the can. Yes I do realize you probably alrready thought of this:)
Anonymous660 2 years ago
Lately I've not even bothered putting water in the can. Actually I don't use this setup much because as it sits now it just creates too much back pressure. I need to remove at least half of the copper coil, I figure, and give the remaining stuff more of an incline to help it drain, because it does not drain well on its own. I had been using ice chiseled out of the deep freeze in it ;)
MisterOcclusion 2 years ago
fill ur copper tube with sand then it will bend w/out pinching
Sojaofdapepo 3 years ago
Thanks. I've also been told that salt works. These days I just try to not need bends. ;)
MisterOcclusion 3 years ago
@Sojaofdapepo thats wet fine sand like is used for foundy practice. Altho I doubt anyone would fill a coil like that with sand for bending. try cerrobend or bendalloy, prolly much better than old hacks like sand! dgrdesignsDOTcoDOTuk
Axbent 1 year ago
It clearly speeds up when you remove the hemostat and slows down when you replace it
Arnthorg 3 years ago
Yes, there is a good bit of back pressure in the system. I need to cut the coil count again.
MisterOcclusion 3 years ago
Nice Rig... what kinda psi are you getting from that boiler?
Also... is it not possible to pipe the condensate back into the boiler (for efficiency sake haha)?
jameshamel 4 years ago
When running flat out the Jensen's usually maintain between 8-10PSI. They'll build up to about 20 before the check valve starts to vent steam.
Have a look at the Jensen 50 or 51 (not here: I can't afford either..). They have feed water pumps that keep the boiler full during running. Condensate, though, has some oil in it, which isn't good for the boiler (makes a mess inside), so I don't reuse it.
MisterOcclusion 4 years ago