It appears to have been removed, I can't find it either. Basically, it involved tightening all the screws (from the inside), and silicone caulking all joints where air could escape. Do not overtighten the screws holding the speakers, or you will warp the frames. Sealing the cab seams gives the speakers a better "cushion" to move against, reducing cone "flop", and resulting in a tighter focus / low end. Hope that helps.
I took the back off my cab and stapled fiber glass insulation to it...Made a deeper sound cranked...Less air flow. I want to try egg carton sound foam next...
The corking does work to tighten up the structure but it reallt has little effect with sound actual waves rather vibration...Try insulation of all types if your looking to fatten up the sound.
This is needed if you use faster break up speakers like V30 or greenbacks.
I just caulked the inside of my Marshall 4x 12 cab. I did all the front edges and the handles.The tone difference is incredible! The botom end is so much tighter and mids have so much more bite. If you own a marshall cabinet........ do yourself a favor and caulk the interior edges and you will be blown away by the difference! One side of my cab had a 3 or 4mm gap!
It does sound slightly more focussed. When you mention caulking that means layering the back of the baffle board with white poly filler to seal any gaps??
@5150VanAlien No, you don't want to caulk the back. If you take the back off, you'll see joints between the sides and front baffle. These are the joints to caulk. Also, tighten up all the screws holding the cabinet together. Search for "Bob Molton Tone Secrets" for the video.
@utubefloyd That's not what I meant. When I say the back of the baffle board, I meant the back of the "FRONT" baffle board. I just wanted to gain the interpretation of caulking that's all. Seems it is what I thought, using polyfiller to cover the gaps.
I have seen the Bob Molton video many months ago, though I don't agree with wetting the cabinet as soft pine/plywood can distort in shape. Also, he doesn't mention replacing standard Marshall wiring with high grade either.
I heard the difference but did you tighten up all the interior screws as well? Did you caulk the handles too? Did you add an extra screw to the back board to the center post? Have you tried filling the cabinet with carpet padding?
@MrGuitarandvocals You ass, I mean what have you found out? What happens when there is a screw in there? Do you gain or lose anything? Sheese! Hard day at the office?
@1971SuperLead Yes, tightened all interior screws. No, I did not caulk the handles, they seemed to be pretty well sealed. No, I did not add an extra screw to the back, the one screw is sufficient and I did not want to alter the look of the cab from the outside. No, I did not put carpet padding in the cab, I only did the mods that Bob Molton suggested in his video.
It sounds good to me. Dude can I ask a question, is there any way I can connect a marshall 1912 cab to a stereo Line 6 Spider IV 150 head. Line 6 say both 75W outputs need to be connected to 8ohm loads. Is there any way I can modify the Marshall to make it work with the Spider IV head? Thanks
@WishlistTheBand Doesn't really lose or gain in bass response, , but does tighten up the bass. If you like a "loose" feel in the low end, I would leave it stock. If you play metal, or like a tighter bass feel, it would be beneficial.
Yes, it's hard to hear with my cheap little camera mic. I did two cabinets, and compared them after caulking the first. The caulked cab sounded more focused, and the uncaulked cab sounded more compressed.
honestly i like it before the caulking, sounds more mean to me
Pain715 3 weeks ago
It appears to have been removed, I can't find it either. Basically, it involved tightening all the screws (from the inside), and silicone caulking all joints where air could escape. Do not overtighten the screws holding the speakers, or you will warp the frames. Sealing the cab seams gives the speakers a better "cushion" to move against, reducing cone "flop", and resulting in a tighter focus / low end. Hope that helps.
utubefloyd 2 months ago
Can you refer me to the Molton video you mentioned? I can't seem to find it.
danielgfaria 2 months ago
Sounds a bit more single-coily after caulking.
Subdivisions95 2 months ago
Marshall cabinets are junk - they use to make good cabinets in the eighties and early nineties - not now
Voodoo amps makes the best guitar cabinets
MrGuitarandvocals 4 months ago
@MrGuitarandvocals Whitebox makes good cabs too. Designed in the UK & made in the USA.
hawg427 1 month ago
@hawg427
cool
MrGuitarandvocals 1 month ago
I took the back off my cab and stapled fiber glass insulation to it...Made a deeper sound cranked...Less air flow. I want to try egg carton sound foam next...
The corking does work to tighten up the structure but it reallt has little effect with sound actual waves rather vibration...Try insulation of all types if your looking to fatten up the sound.
This is needed if you use faster break up speakers like V30 or greenbacks.
JBL8863 1 year ago
much more high ends after !!! pretty good mod ! very 80's sounding
leejackson13666 1 year ago
I just caulked the inside of my Marshall 4x 12 cab. I did all the front edges and the handles.The tone difference is incredible! The botom end is so much tighter and mids have so much more bite. If you own a marshall cabinet........ do yourself a favor and caulk the interior edges and you will be blown away by the difference! One side of my cab had a 3 or 4mm gap!
Briman24 1 year ago
what do you mean by caulking? in what does it consist?
nitraus 1 year ago
It does sound slightly more focussed. When you mention caulking that means layering the back of the baffle board with white poly filler to seal any gaps??
5150VanAlien 1 year ago
@5150VanAlien No, you don't want to caulk the back. If you take the back off, you'll see joints between the sides and front baffle. These are the joints to caulk. Also, tighten up all the screws holding the cabinet together. Search for "Bob Molton Tone Secrets" for the video.
utubefloyd 1 year ago
@utubefloyd That's not what I meant. When I say the back of the baffle board, I meant the back of the "FRONT" baffle board. I just wanted to gain the interpretation of caulking that's all. Seems it is what I thought, using polyfiller to cover the gaps.
I have seen the Bob Molton video many months ago, though I don't agree with wetting the cabinet as soft pine/plywood can distort in shape. Also, he doesn't mention replacing standard Marshall wiring with high grade either.
5150VanAlien 1 year ago
I heard the difference but did you tighten up all the interior screws as well? Did you caulk the handles too? Did you add an extra screw to the back board to the center post? Have you tried filling the cabinet with carpet padding?
1971SuperLead 1 year ago
@1971SuperLead Yes, No, Yes, No. I'm happy with the bass response at this point.
utubefloyd 1 year ago
@1971SuperLead
any screw to the backboard post is a terrible flaw on marshalls part
MrGuitarandvocals 4 months ago
@MrGuitarandvocals Why? What do you know?
1971SuperLead 4 months ago
@1971SuperLead
More than you
MrGuitarandvocals 4 months ago
@MrGuitarandvocals You ass, I mean what have you found out? What happens when there is a screw in there? Do you gain or lose anything? Sheese! Hard day at the office?
1971SuperLead 4 months ago
@1971SuperLead
You lose your hard on - I work for myself - not in a piece of shit office
MrGuitarandvocals 4 months ago
@MrGuitarandvocals I never lose my hard on, but sorry to hear about your screw problem.
1971SuperLead 4 months ago
@1971SuperLead
Don't have a screw problem - I wouldn't buy mass produced shit like Marshall
MrGuitarandvocals 4 months ago
@1971SuperLead
So the cialis is working for you now?
MrGuitarandvocals 4 months ago
@1971SuperLead Yes, tightened all interior screws. No, I did not caulk the handles, they seemed to be pretty well sealed. No, I did not add an extra screw to the back, the one screw is sufficient and I did not want to alter the look of the cab from the outside. No, I did not put carpet padding in the cab, I only did the mods that Bob Molton suggested in his video.
utubefloyd 4 months ago
@utubefloyd Oh thanks!
1971SuperLead 4 months ago
It sounds good to me. Dude can I ask a question, is there any way I can connect a marshall 1912 cab to a stereo Line 6 Spider IV 150 head. Line 6 say both 75W outputs need to be connected to 8ohm loads. Is there any way I can modify the Marshall to make it work with the Spider IV head? Thanks
Hertsman50 1 year ago
@Hertsman50 dude in my band me and the rhtyhm guitarist are combining line 6 150 head with a marshall cab 1960
TheBlackmetalhead 10 months ago
I honestly don't hear a difference.
andy92811 1 year ago
does this loose or gain bass responce?
coz i like a bit more bottom end out of mine.
also did you do the handles and back plate aswell?
thenks
WishlistTheBand 1 year ago
@WishlistTheBand Doesn't really lose or gain in bass response, , but does tighten up the bass. If you like a "loose" feel in the low end, I would leave it stock. If you play metal, or like a tighter bass feel, it would be beneficial.
utubefloyd 1 year ago
its hard to hear with the camera mic but it is audible on the bottom end
try clicking the time line cursor back and forth between the two sections
patfurlan 2 years ago
I didnt really notice a difference. But I'm sure you could being next to the amp!
GuitarzFromMarz 2 years ago
Yes, it's hard to hear with my cheap little camera mic. I did two cabinets, and compared them after caulking the first. The caulked cab sounded more focused, and the uncaulked cab sounded more compressed.
utubefloyd 2 years ago