WOW! Sounds and looks amazing! I'm having manual transmission jealousy though. Haha I have a 3 speed auto. I wish I knew what all that meant. The cams especially interest me. I have a '65 with a 302 two barrel (obviously not stock ;) )
And I'd like to do something to spice it up a bit. I don't really understand the cam except that it lifts higher for more fuel, which means more compression and more power Yes? No? Lol
@ParkTrotPlease Thanks. Higher lift simply means the valves open more. .500" vs .415", for instance. The other critical number to understand is duration, which refers to how many crankshaft degrees the valve is open at a given lift, typically .050". Simply put, longer duration gives the fuel/air mixture more time to enter the cylinder. Easy ways to spice up your 302 would be a new 4bbl intake, 4bbl carb, warmer cam, and headers.
I just bought a 66 mustang 289 and I cant make up my mind as far as what kind of shorty headers I should add, especially what type of dual exhaust. Can someone please help.......thank you
Thats cool that you get power out of a little 289. That should shut people up that say you cant do much with a small displacment engine. Well done. 1 thing, why solid lift?
I have a 289 in my 1950 Ford. This engine had fuel injection . I recently changed it to points and carb. I have been told the engine will never run right doing this. That i would have to change it back to module electronic ignition
hey im a mechanic and if its got 27 miles on it you should not be reving the engine like that you'll blow a head gasket or worse you could bend the push rods and then it would screw up the engine and then you would have to rebuild it so thats a bad idea just wait untell you get 500 miles on that engine before reving it like that k
@bree7878 I wish you had read in previous comments that I'm not interested in the least in comments from youtube users regarding any "suggestions" about my car. Although I'm sure you mean well, most of you are morons who are clueless about cars, and as I previously stated, I'm confident I know what's better for my car than most of you do. Unfortunately, your comments only reaffirm my beliefs that you do not know what you're talking about.
@bree7878 For instance, the head gaskets and pushrods aren't affected at all by the break-in process. The head gaskets are fully set once the stainless steel compression rings have been crushed. The pushrods are factory heat-treated and do not experience anything closely resembling strength increases during break-in. If you'd been concerned about bearing or ring seating, you may have been more believable. Also if you were a mechanic, you should know revving a fresh engine to 3500rpm is harmless.
im a mechanic i do this for a living.i know what im talking about and if you dont break that engine in gently it will blow a head gasket.pushrods are temperd to 250 degrees if the engine gets hotter then that it will warp them and it could collaps the oil rings and warp the heads ive been a mechanic all my life i started working on cars when i was 3 yrs old and im 26 yrs old and i do it for a living so dont tell me that it wont i can take apart a engine and put it together in an hour and 5 min
@NWpowerhouse85 It's not too bad and doesn't have to be done all that often. The engine is out of the car right now and I'm currently reassembling it. Changes will include increased compression from decking the block and milling the heads some more. Also decided to go with a hydraulic roller cam for now, a Comp 31-601-8 Mutha Thumpr . Have a new exhaust built for it as well, 2.25" mandrel bent with a custom X-pipe and Flowmaster 50s.
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
I love this car man. Great looking restoration. Like the hubcaps...makes it a major sleeper until you fire it up...lol. Great sound. Gotta love solid lifters and the hipo.
I have an A code 289 66 Fastback with a toploader and glasspacks that is still a work in progress. I also have an A code 289 66 coupe with a toploader and glasspacks.
But again man super sweet super rare ride...Hang on to it.
Typical starting procedure for any V8 gasoline engine with a carb equipped with an accelrator pump is to press the pedal to the floor once or twice prior to cold starting, to squirt fuel into the intake and richen the initial mixture. Standard practice when starting a warm engine is to crank it with the pedal depressed about a third of the way, to lean out the initial mixture. So yes, both of those are totally normal and have nothing to do with a rebuilt engine.
The play is valve lash, or the slack between all valvetrain components (valve stem, rocker, pushrod, lifter, and cam). A solid lifter cam needs physical valve lash because the lifter cannot adapt (as can a hydraulic lifter with a piston) to compensate for lash. This means there is about .016" free-play between the valvetrain components. Therefore, when valves open and close, metal bangs into metal creating a tick.
Ducttape789 onviously has not done his home work on K code 289's. These engines were offered as an option in many 64-67 ford products. Including Comet Cyclones and Ford Fairlanes. They were offered also as an option in GT and non GT coupes and fastback Mustangs. I have seen all the above cars in the late sixties when I was lucky enough to have a 1965 GT 2 plus 2 Mustang. PS that is a very nice 66. Hearing those solid lifters in the video really brings back the memories. Again nice Mustang.
nice stang. i got a question for you since you have a 289 hi-po. i recently bought a 1965 289 4v engine off an old guy that said he bought a 65 mustang with a 289 2v. the previous owned had died and his wife sold him the car and must take all extras, including the 289 4v engine. he wanted to keep it origional so he sold me the 4v engine. how do i find out if it is just a 289 4v, or a hi-po? it has an autolite carb. cast iron intake and adjustable lifters. but the harmonic balancer is missing.
Some things you can look for are a dual point distributor, screw-in rocker studs (as opposed to press-in) and main caps with a bit more meat on them. Does it have hi-po exhaust manifolds as well?
distributor, harm. balancer and manifolds were missing. however, i did see the rocker studs are screw in because the rocker covers are missing too. as far as the main caps, i havent tore it apart yet. i have a ways to go on my project (1964 galaxie convert.) before i get to the engine. i couldnt pass the deal up for $125
Sounds like it could be an original hi-po assuming it's a factory job. When you get inside you can also look at the rod bolts and see if theyre 3/8 instead of 5/18. If the heads, caps, and rod bolts look like original hipo parts it's likely a hipo motor.
isnt a 670 cfm street avenger a little big for that 289 even with the mods? ive got a 351c 2v with one on it with a roller cam, headers, and a bunch of other mods and its perfect size
It works well on the 289. Remember, the 289 only has a 2.87 inch stroke so it's a high winder. The 670 cfm can easily support 7000 rpm. Also, keep in mind it has vacuum secondaries so the secondaries open only as much as the engine needs. Having a large 4 barrel ensures enough airflow even at high rpms but low rpm performance is still snappy and torquey.
a 570cfm Holley Street Avenger would be the maximum I`d put on such an engine. I actually use a Holley 500cfm 2bbl, which is more than enough for my 289.
cool mustang. In Michigan we cant drive muscle cars all year round. Be sure to drive that car once in a while. Im a mopar guy myself but i respect blue oval.
No doubt, it gets driven year round here in California. Same here, I love mopars but Fords can be nice too. I need to post a video of my '68 Coronet R/T for all the mopar fans on youtube to see. Last I checked, there were no good videos of one.
I am not going to put on headers or especially aftermarket heads. The car is set up to retain *most* of the look of a stock hi-po. Yes, both cams were broken in properly with cam lube and the requitiste run times, while running Gibbs break-in oil in the sump. The first failed regardless. I have my suspicions about the second one.
Get some headers and a good 2 1/2 inch exhaust system. Change that gear ratio too. AFR 165 heads would be nice. If you plan on lots of drag racing go with the AFR 185.
If you change cams to a hydraulic, check out Comp Cams Magnum 280h. Same duration 230 with 512 lift and works great. Don't bother with roller cams. More money than gain. If you do remember to change the distributor gear.
nice car you got but a 670 holley is way too much carb for a 289. Your loosing bottom end torque. Nice stang though, should be a screamer. Its definatly a hipo motor considering the solid lifters. If i were you i would sell all the k code parts and build a different motor buts thats just me. And maybe larger tires.
The big holley seems to work fine even with the large plenum intake and 1" spacer, but right now I don't have any other comaptible 4 barrels to try. All in all, everything seems to work out well but I'm not as happy with the cam as I used to be. I think it could stand a bit more duration and lift to bump up the power and torque curves. Anyways, its got springs that are 135 lbs at the seat right now so putting in even a pretty radical cam wouldn't cause valvetrain issues.
I wouldn't be worrying about that cam, its plenty. Save up for some afr heads. You could probably sell them hipos and just pay a couple more for the aluminum heads. Are you going for the full out sleeper? because at WOT, your not goin anywhere, those tires will just be spinnning haha.
I think the heads are pretty good. They are ported/polished, have a 3 angle valve job, ARP screw-in studs, etc. I like the look of the stock heads. For now I want to keep it looking basically like a factory sleeper with the 14" wheels with hubcaps, and yes, the engine will wind way out spinning the tires not even at WOT, a pain to launch right now with that plus 2.90 gears. Lately my '68 Coronet R/T has been getting my attention though...gotta love B-body Mopars with 440s!
I want to pull the cam out some day anyways. The first one from the same guy made to same specs went flat and ruined the bearings and crank journals with metal shavings. I'm paranoid this one (as it's the same exact thing) could be experiencing rapid wear with the tough valve springs, as there are a few valves where lash never seems to stay adjusted. I might replace it with a hydraulic lifter setup, or possibly a roller setup.
Hi and greetings from sweden. My father is a collector and has 3 mustangs. 66 Mustang fastback, 66 Cab (baby blue with white cab) and a 67 Fastback, and he sorta made me a mustang freak too. I used to own one too (74 Mach1) but sold it to buy an appartment.
Anyway, the sound of your car gave me goosebumps. Great work dude. Cheers.
WRONG, The K Code engine was a factory engine from ford. Very minor changes from the standard 289, thats why it was not sold, making it an extremely rare option.
I do not believe this is a true k code in the video, most people with a k code leave it stock because it is a minor performance upgrade that can easily be topped with performance parts. K codes are typically used in concourse cars, which this is far from.
You believe it isn't a K code because it has a bigger Holley 4bbl, an aftermarket intake, and Ford Racing valve covers? I think the internals, which really count, would beg to differ, like the screw-in rocker arm studs and the meatier main caps. You seem to know what you're talking about; however, the K engine is not a minor upgrade from an A code. The hotter solid lifter cam, better distributor curve, and much larger manifolds let it breath much better and it is quite a bit healthier.
Great car, I love the tick of the solid lifters. I have heard speculation that the HIPOs will be the new shelbys as far as the collector car hobby goes. Enjoy!
Yes, not many HiPos were built as a percentage of total mustang production so it's quite a rare option for a mustang, but still nothing like an original 426 hemi in a mopar.
Thanks. 426s are nice, great at the strip, but my original 440 magnum '68 R/T is quicker on the street. The torque is just great. I need to put a video of the old dodge up, I think people would like it too.
Nice car, great engine. That engine is built to race on the strip with the specs you quote. Pity you'll not be taking it to the track, but as the other guy said, I can respect that. I don't understand, but i will respect your decision.
P.S
an engine with those specs and obvious power would thank you for the occasional 1/4 mile run. You can still treat your car with respect and have a little 1/4 mile action.
Don't worry, the HiPo does get revved out on occasion when it's driven. Actually, it has eaten a few unsuspecting old chevies for lunch on the street. You're right, an occasional quarter mile run wouldn't hurt the engine -- it's built for it. However, it gets in enough high RPM time on the street to make up for it. The car's not set up to be a 1/4 mile runner so I never saw a need to take it. Not too happy with the custom ground cam right now though, so a cam swap may be in the future.
Don't know, don't know, and don't know, respectively. Car hasn't been to (and will not go to) the track and has not been on an engine or chassis dyno.
Nice motor. I know it well which raises a question about the distributor. It should be a dual-point centrifugal advance distributor, with no vacuum advance. Actually the original dual point dist was a rock solid performer, but I suspect they are very expensive to get today.
Had just got the car running with another distributor correct for a 66 non hipo while awaiting the components to arrive in the mail to replace the dual points with a digital electronic system under the cap. On a hot 289, full mechanical advance works quite a bit better than using a vacuum advance.
Lots of top end horsepower and surprisingly a lot of torque, and that's coming from someone who is spoiled by the torque and horsepower from a 440 magnum.
Thanks for the suggestion, but there are a few reasons it doesn't have headers on it. First, original high performance headers flow very nearly as well as a standard set of headers. Second, they are original manifolds to a pretty rare engine option. Third, headers often have fitment issues and clog up the compartment a bit in the case that I needed or wanted to do some work.
Hehe, you don't seem to be familiar with these engines so let me explain. What you hear isn't "lifter tick" as you wrongly call it, it is the noise of ALL valvetrain components hitting each other when the 15 thou of lash is eaten up by movement. It is exactly as it should sound in a true solid lifter engine, and a strong point in showing this is a K-code engine, not some hydraulic lifter copycat. Please know what you're talking about in the future before making silly "know it all" comments.
Thanks - the high performance models do handle pretty well with stiffer sway bars and quicker ratio steering. Base models without high performance suspension do not corner like anything special as those were built as inexpensive vehicles to get from point A to point B economically.
that 289 sounds pretty nice. not bad for a small block. but some of my friends run solid lift cams and dont have that mild knocking sound. but obviously you built it and know about your own motor more than me. nice though...!
Yeah built this motor from the ground up. The reason its louder than you'd think is probably because of the style of solid lifters. They are Chet Herbert lifters made from hydraulic lifter bodies. Instead of a piston in the body, it's essentially a solid cylinder with a cup for the pushrod ball and a C-clip to hold it in. The solid cylinder in the body rattles around a tiny bit if you shake the lifter. This bit of freeplay is what causes the noise.
The value of a 1966 Mustang coupe with a K-code 289 hipo and a 4spd manual transmission is pretty high, $25,000-$40,000 varying from good to excellent condition
I like everything except the hubcaps and it isn't very loud. The ticking of the engine was MUCH louder than the exhaust, but only when it was idling. Plus, on your next video could you show the K-code? Thats why i watched the video was to see a K-code Hi-Po, but you didn't show the actual K-code on the car.
Your comment is interesting, but you have no way of knowing how loud it is -_- You have never heard it in real life, only through a digital camera movie with unidirectional sound that was divx encoded and then encoded by youtube again, i.e. horrible sound as is standard with youtube. Don't like the hubcaps? They're original to the car. The originality is what sets this Mustang apart. And no, I am not going to take a picture of my VIN number for you.
For one thing, i meant it isn't very loud in the video, never said in real life. Two, you don't have to show the entire VIN number, just the K. And two side notes: A LOT of mustangs have hubcaps, and your camera is one of the best i've seen sound and video wise on youtube...
Interesting, I don't think the sound and video from my digital camera is very good, been looking into a camcorder. Those hubcaps are the FACTORY ORIGINAL hubcaps and in good shape, and I'm still not going to take any pictures of the VIN. The hubcaps are unique as part of the package including the 289k and the 4spd..original AM rad works btw. Don't see many of those around, do you? Now, if I could just get it to go faster than my '68 Coronet R/T 440 Magnum...
It's a joke. But for argument's sake, I could get my 66 to beat my 68. I'm not going to change the K engine though, its plenty fast and works great, that and its been freshly rebuilt, I don't plan on touching it again for years.
Dont Laugh, I've seen it done. I watched a well built Maverick 302 (very similar to 289/Mustang) Beat a very nice 70 Charger R/T several weekends in a row. Charger dude was really frustrated, and kept coming back with new improvements, and the Maverick continued to embarrass him. its been done
I have a 64 1/2 289 hi po K code mustang. Back in 68 it was turning 11:80's. Launched at 6000 rpm, shifted at 9800...all documented on the original time slips. It had twin 500cfm holleys, 5:89 gears an Art Carr C-4 Massively ported and polished heads, 12.5-1 pistons, etc. etc. It would eat a 427 Vette without a problem. It is all back to stock now.
Like how it sounds. wondering what brand mufflers you are using and can you post a video doing a launch and drive by? I am auditioning mufflers for my 65 K code.
It idles a bit differently now as I've done some stuff to the distributor. It has dual glasspacks, blue streaks I think, but they will be changed before too long. I will post a video of a launch and driveby *if* I can get ahold of a camcorder, the digital camera isn't good enough.
I have a 65 coupe/289/4spd and I bought the stainless Magnaflow set up. Has long tube headers and a Lunati cam. It sounds sweet!!!!!! Sets off lots of car alarms, but it's not too loud in the car. Nice, deep tone. It's funny, I don't like Flowmasters, but the owner at the muffler shop I use does. He says my car is one of the best he's heard!
Do you have any clips posted? Magnaflow type sound is what I'm looking for, I think. I don't want to vibrate my interior loose but want a deep sound, not a broken pipe type sound like some turbo mufflers give out. I am thinking about tri-y setup, right now mine is stock (original Ford mufflers about 40 years old). I have a clip posted, search 289 hipo, look for gray fastback.
No clips, sorry. My video camera is not working. It's a JVC, which must be Japanese for 'cheap crap', or 'will fail after warranty is up'. (I had a JVC tv, dvd player, and video camera, all with problems) I know, it's a whole other topic. Try the Magnaflows, I don't think anyone would not like them. Maybe look at the Edelbrock SDT mufflers. They don't have that "tinny" Flowmaster sound. Check out Edelbrock's site, there are sound clips.
That is BEAUTIFUL, I'm doing an almost identical setup on my '67 289, good cam with dual glass, I just need to get the money first, minor details. Lol.
Thanks for the commet, glad you like it. It was a LOT of work to restore the engine compartment and rebuild the engine...and quite a bit of money too. I have since the video swapped distributors to a more tuneable aftermarket one, so the engine is quite a bit lopier when idling and makes a bit more power. Good luck with your project, make that 289 a screamer ;)
Alternate account here too, forgot my other password so I made a new account. Got my engine pulled and cleaned, with the amount of oil and shit that was all over it before I am amazed at how true the cylinders are. I'm gonna stroke it to 3.250" but I'm not sure yet if I want to keep the cylinders and have a 327 or go the .030" overbore and do 331. Have a trickflow .541/.564" 256dur Trickflow cam with hydraulic rollers and roller rockers, Trickflow spiral flow heads and a gear drive timing set
i know its a solid lifter cam so it makes noise... but it sounds like one of them is ticking more than the others. i would check to make sure all rocker arms are tight before i really cranked on it. other than that awesome job on the car!
Rocker arm clearances have been checked twice (hot) and are dead on. We've taken it to the guy that ground our cam and he said it's so loud due to the type of solid lifters he supplied us with. They are proprietary Chet Herbert SBF solid lifters made out of hydraulic lifters. The piece of metal in the lifter has a bit of freeplay and will rattle a bit on its own if shaken.
He said the bit of extra freeplay is the cause of the louder ticking sound. In real life the volume of all the ticking is pretty similar, so no one thinks that one or two rockers are off.
Yes we did all the work by ourselves. If you want to count machine shop services like machining the crank, then no lol, don't have a full service machine shop in our garage. Other than that, we did 100% from teardown to rebuild.
WOW! Sounds and looks amazing! I'm having manual transmission jealousy though. Haha I have a 3 speed auto. I wish I knew what all that meant. The cams especially interest me. I have a '65 with a 302 two barrel (obviously not stock ;) )
And I'd like to do something to spice it up a bit. I don't really understand the cam except that it lifts higher for more fuel, which means more compression and more power Yes? No? Lol
ParkTrotPlease 10 months ago
@ParkTrotPlease Thanks. Higher lift simply means the valves open more. .500" vs .415", for instance. The other critical number to understand is duration, which refers to how many crankshaft degrees the valve is open at a given lift, typically .050". Simply put, longer duration gives the fuel/air mixture more time to enter the cylinder. Easy ways to spice up your 302 would be a new 4bbl intake, 4bbl carb, warmer cam, and headers.
donlugohs 10 months ago
Man I know that sound so well. I miss my '64 1/2 more than I miss my old dog.
tbmike23 11 months ago
thats a VERY nice car,i prefer the inline six personally.love the valve covers
FlamingTightyWhiteis 1 year ago
Nice! i got a 66 mustang, i don't have the 289 in it, still have it, but i got a 351 in it now.
i know i will hear "there is no such thing as a 351"
kingkoax 1 year ago
so how many horses are you pushing in that stang for a 289??
punnkypo 1 year ago
@punnkypo the k codes usually had close to 305. but with his set up maybe a little more
deathdefyingleap 10 months ago
I just bought a 66 mustang 289 and I cant make up my mind as far as what kind of shorty headers I should add, especially what type of dual exhaust. Can someone please help.......thank you
skytrooper30 1 year ago
Thats cool that you get power out of a little 289. That should shut people up that say you cant do much with a small displacment engine. Well done. 1 thing, why solid lift?
kd5icr1967 1 year ago
I have a 289 in my 1950 Ford. This engine had fuel injection . I recently changed it to points and carb. I have been told the engine will never run right doing this. That i would have to change it back to module electronic ignition
kevykev38 1 year ago
How much horse you making?
67stang721 1 year ago
hey im a mechanic and if its got 27 miles on it you should not be reving the engine like that you'll blow a head gasket or worse you could bend the push rods and then it would screw up the engine and then you would have to rebuild it so thats a bad idea just wait untell you get 500 miles on that engine before reving it like that k
bree7878 1 year ago
@bree7878 I wish you had read in previous comments that I'm not interested in the least in comments from youtube users regarding any "suggestions" about my car. Although I'm sure you mean well, most of you are morons who are clueless about cars, and as I previously stated, I'm confident I know what's better for my car than most of you do. Unfortunately, your comments only reaffirm my beliefs that you do not know what you're talking about.
donlugohs 1 year ago 6
@bree7878 For instance, the head gaskets and pushrods aren't affected at all by the break-in process. The head gaskets are fully set once the stainless steel compression rings have been crushed. The pushrods are factory heat-treated and do not experience anything closely resembling strength increases during break-in. If you'd been concerned about bearing or ring seating, you may have been more believable. Also if you were a mechanic, you should know revving a fresh engine to 3500rpm is harmless.
donlugohs 1 year ago 13
im a mechanic i do this for a living.i know what im talking about and if you dont break that engine in gently it will blow a head gasket.pushrods are temperd to 250 degrees if the engine gets hotter then that it will warp them and it could collaps the oil rings and warp the heads ive been a mechanic all my life i started working on cars when i was 3 yrs old and im 26 yrs old and i do it for a living so dont tell me that it wont i can take apart a engine and put it together in an hour and 5 min
bree7878 1 year ago
HELL YEAH!!!!!!!! one of the diferences beetween the normal mustang and the HI-PO mustang was that if they are manual they all have 4 gears
ricardoeldelmustang 1 year ago
I'd bet that you love adjusting those solid lifters eh? Haha, nice car
NWpowerhouse85 1 year ago
@NWpowerhouse85 It's not too bad and doesn't have to be done all that often. The engine is out of the car right now and I'm currently reassembling it. Changes will include increased compression from decking the block and milling the heads some more. Also decided to go with a hydraulic roller cam for now, a Comp 31-601-8 Mutha Thumpr . Have a new exhaust built for it as well, 2.25" mandrel bent with a custom X-pipe and Flowmaster 50s.
donlugohs 1 year ago
nice car sounds great
KawiKZ400 1 year ago
nice car sounds great
KawiKZ400 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
nice im getting my 66 mustang on my 16th birthday in july. this car is sic but you should put new rims on it cause those rims dont look that good but still im jeaous of you haha
cbradleyy 1 year ago
I love this car man. Great looking restoration. Like the hubcaps...makes it a major sleeper until you fire it up...lol. Great sound. Gotta love solid lifters and the hipo.
I have an A code 289 66 Fastback with a toploader and glasspacks that is still a work in progress. I also have an A code 289 66 coupe with a toploader and glasspacks.
But again man super sweet super rare ride...Hang on to it.
66fastback351 1 year ago
I'm doing pretty much the same thing to my '66!
jrodigan5 1 year ago
I have a 289 in my 1965 Ford Galaxie 500 XL.
TrueSouthernPride 2 years ago
Tight that valve lash up a little or ur valve train with suffer a short life span.
TheSouth79 2 years ago
The sound is normal in a solid lifter valvetrain. The lash is right where it should be, at 0.014".
donlugohs 2 years ago
@ "ducttape789" :
You dont know the first thing about K code motors, nor Ford products in general. Please remain quiet. You sound dumb.
papabugs71 2 years ago
i love your interior man, a few questions from a ford nut:
did you have to press the gas to get it started? it seems that even after my dad's rebuild he STILL has to press the gas,
also, im unfamiliar with what you mentioned as the "play" in the cam that makes the lifters tick is that considered mid range?
drwombat 2 years ago
Typical starting procedure for any V8 gasoline engine with a carb equipped with an accelrator pump is to press the pedal to the floor once or twice prior to cold starting, to squirt fuel into the intake and richen the initial mixture. Standard practice when starting a warm engine is to crank it with the pedal depressed about a third of the way, to lean out the initial mixture. So yes, both of those are totally normal and have nothing to do with a rebuilt engine.
donlugohs 2 years ago
The play is valve lash, or the slack between all valvetrain components (valve stem, rocker, pushrod, lifter, and cam). A solid lifter cam needs physical valve lash because the lifter cannot adapt (as can a hydraulic lifter with a piston) to compensate for lash. This means there is about .016" free-play between the valvetrain components. Therefore, when valves open and close, metal bangs into metal creating a tick.
donlugohs 2 years ago
i have had similar problems.. i went through and flushed out my fuel lines and rebuilt the fuel pump...
ive yet to step on the gas to stop my car
TheDForLess 1 year ago
Ducttape789 onviously has not done his home work on K code 289's. These engines were offered as an option in many 64-67 ford products. Including Comet Cyclones and Ford Fairlanes. They were offered also as an option in GT and non GT coupes and fastback Mustangs. I have seen all the above cars in the late sixties when I was lucky enough to have a 1965 GT 2 plus 2 Mustang. PS that is a very nice 66. Hearing those solid lifters in the video really brings back the memories. Again nice Mustang.
thecobrasnake97 2 years ago
You could also get the hipo 289 in the little 66 ford broncos as well.
66fastback351 1 year ago
nice stang. i got a question for you since you have a 289 hi-po. i recently bought a 1965 289 4v engine off an old guy that said he bought a 65 mustang with a 289 2v. the previous owned had died and his wife sold him the car and must take all extras, including the 289 4v engine. he wanted to keep it origional so he sold me the 4v engine. how do i find out if it is just a 289 4v, or a hi-po? it has an autolite carb. cast iron intake and adjustable lifters. but the harmonic balancer is missing.
aaronjam99 2 years ago
Some things you can look for are a dual point distributor, screw-in rocker studs (as opposed to press-in) and main caps with a bit more meat on them. Does it have hi-po exhaust manifolds as well?
donlugohs 2 years ago
distributor, harm. balancer and manifolds were missing. however, i did see the rocker studs are screw in because the rocker covers are missing too. as far as the main caps, i havent tore it apart yet. i have a ways to go on my project (1964 galaxie convert.) before i get to the engine. i couldnt pass the deal up for $125
aaronjam99 2 years ago
Sounds like it could be an original hi-po assuming it's a factory job. When you get inside you can also look at the rod bolts and see if theyre 3/8 instead of 5/18. If the heads, caps, and rod bolts look like original hipo parts it's likely a hipo motor.
donlugohs 2 years ago
isnt a 670 cfm street avenger a little big for that 289 even with the mods? ive got a 351c 2v with one on it with a roller cam, headers, and a bunch of other mods and its perfect size
ledrocker123 2 years ago
It works well on the 289. Remember, the 289 only has a 2.87 inch stroke so it's a high winder. The 670 cfm can easily support 7000 rpm. Also, keep in mind it has vacuum secondaries so the secondaries open only as much as the engine needs. Having a large 4 barrel ensures enough airflow even at high rpms but low rpm performance is still snappy and torquey.
donlugohs 2 years ago
oh ok, well nice car/engine none the less
ledrocker123 2 years ago
Thanks.
donlugohs 2 years ago
a 570cfm Holley Street Avenger would be the maximum I`d put on such an engine. I actually use a Holley 500cfm 2bbl, which is more than enough for my 289.
NorwegsicheWaldkatze 2 years ago
cool mustang. In Michigan we cant drive muscle cars all year round. Be sure to drive that car once in a while. Im a mopar guy myself but i respect blue oval.
340magnum 2 years ago
No doubt, it gets driven year round here in California. Same here, I love mopars but Fords can be nice too. I need to post a video of my '68 Coronet R/T for all the mopar fans on youtube to see. Last I checked, there were no good videos of one.
donlugohs 2 years ago
Your cam problem may be break in related. Were the lobes coated with lube and run at 2000 rpm for 15-20 minutes?
boss351dude 2 years ago
I am not going to put on headers or especially aftermarket heads. The car is set up to retain *most* of the look of a stock hi-po. Yes, both cams were broken in properly with cam lube and the requitiste run times, while running Gibbs break-in oil in the sump. The first failed regardless. I have my suspicions about the second one.
donlugohs 2 years ago
Get some headers and a good 2 1/2 inch exhaust system. Change that gear ratio too. AFR 165 heads would be nice. If you plan on lots of drag racing go with the AFR 185.
boss351dude 2 years ago
If you change cams to a hydraulic, check out Comp Cams Magnum 280h. Same duration 230 with 512 lift and works great. Don't bother with roller cams. More money than gain. If you do remember to change the distributor gear.
boss351dude 2 years ago
wrong, a 670 cfm is street perfect.
gst69man 2 years ago
nice car you got but a 670 holley is way too much carb for a 289. Your loosing bottom end torque. Nice stang though, should be a screamer. Its definatly a hipo motor considering the solid lifters. If i were you i would sell all the k code parts and build a different motor buts thats just me. And maybe larger tires.
FordGtman333 2 years ago
The big holley seems to work fine even with the large plenum intake and 1" spacer, but right now I don't have any other comaptible 4 barrels to try. All in all, everything seems to work out well but I'm not as happy with the cam as I used to be. I think it could stand a bit more duration and lift to bump up the power and torque curves. Anyways, its got springs that are 135 lbs at the seat right now so putting in even a pretty radical cam wouldn't cause valvetrain issues.
donlugohs 2 years ago
I wouldn't be worrying about that cam, its plenty. Save up for some afr heads. You could probably sell them hipos and just pay a couple more for the aluminum heads. Are you going for the full out sleeper? because at WOT, your not goin anywhere, those tires will just be spinnning haha.
FordGtman333 2 years ago
I think the heads are pretty good. They are ported/polished, have a 3 angle valve job, ARP screw-in studs, etc. I like the look of the stock heads. For now I want to keep it looking basically like a factory sleeper with the 14" wheels with hubcaps, and yes, the engine will wind way out spinning the tires not even at WOT, a pain to launch right now with that plus 2.90 gears. Lately my '68 Coronet R/T has been getting my attention though...gotta love B-body Mopars with 440s!
donlugohs 2 years ago
I want to pull the cam out some day anyways. The first one from the same guy made to same specs went flat and ruined the bearings and crank journals with metal shavings. I'm paranoid this one (as it's the same exact thing) could be experiencing rapid wear with the tough valve springs, as there are a few valves where lash never seems to stay adjusted. I might replace it with a hydraulic lifter setup, or possibly a roller setup.
donlugohs 2 years ago
nice to see a video with someone who is explaining the car in detail....you know your stuff and I'm jealous.....nice car
element774 2 years ago
Thank you.
donlugohs 2 years ago
Hi and greetings from sweden. My father is a collector and has 3 mustangs. 66 Mustang fastback, 66 Cab (baby blue with white cab) and a 67 Fastback, and he sorta made me a mustang freak too. I used to own one too (74 Mach1) but sold it to buy an appartment.
Anyway, the sound of your car gave me goosebumps. Great work dude. Cheers.
0verseer 2 years ago
What makes this a hipo 289?
NextGenerationMovies 2 years ago
performance parts and chrome
kyew92 2 years ago
WRONG, The K Code engine was a factory engine from ford. Very minor changes from the standard 289, thats why it was not sold, making it an extremely rare option.
I do not believe this is a true k code in the video, most people with a k code leave it stock because it is a minor performance upgrade that can easily be topped with performance parts. K codes are typically used in concourse cars, which this is far from.
ducttape789 2 years ago
You believe it isn't a K code because it has a bigger Holley 4bbl, an aftermarket intake, and Ford Racing valve covers? I think the internals, which really count, would beg to differ, like the screw-in rocker arm studs and the meatier main caps. You seem to know what you're talking about; however, the K engine is not a minor upgrade from an A code. The hotter solid lifter cam, better distributor curve, and much larger manifolds let it breath much better and it is quite a bit healthier.
donlugohs 2 years ago
"pony" cars
nls8520 2 years ago
Great car, I love the tick of the solid lifters. I have heard speculation that the HIPOs will be the new shelbys as far as the collector car hobby goes. Enjoy!
nls8520 2 years ago
Yes, not many HiPos were built as a percentage of total mustang production so it's quite a rare option for a mustang, but still nothing like an original 426 hemi in a mopar.
donlugohs 2 years ago
I would love to own any 426 Hemi mopar car. Enjoy your HIPO!!
nls8520 2 years ago
Thanks. 426s are nice, great at the strip, but my original 440 magnum '68 R/T is quicker on the street. The torque is just great. I need to put a video of the old dodge up, I think people would like it too.
donlugohs 2 years ago
Yeah definatley post a vid of that one as well. I am not brand specific, I like nearly all muscle and pont cars..
nls8520 2 years ago
Nice car, great engine. That engine is built to race on the strip with the specs you quote. Pity you'll not be taking it to the track, but as the other guy said, I can respect that. I don't understand, but i will respect your decision.
P.S
an engine with those specs and obvious power would thank you for the occasional 1/4 mile run. You can still treat your car with respect and have a little 1/4 mile action.
Regardless... I'm sure you'll enjoy driving her...
FalconXE302 2 years ago
Don't worry, the HiPo does get revved out on occasion when it's driven. Actually, it has eaten a few unsuspecting old chevies for lunch on the street. You're right, an occasional quarter mile run wouldn't hurt the engine -- it's built for it. However, it gets in enough high RPM time on the street to make up for it. The car's not set up to be a 1/4 mile runner so I never saw a need to take it. Not too happy with the custom ground cam right now though, so a cam swap may be in the future.
donlugohs 2 years ago
whats the 1/4 times? or the hp and touque?
BeboAltizer 3 years ago
Don't know, don't know, and don't know, respectively. Car hasn't been to (and will not go to) the track and has not been on an engine or chassis dyno.
donlugohs 3 years ago
i can respect that.
BeboAltizer 3 years ago
I had a 1965 Mustang 289
But not like this one, that's power.
Don't ever sell it,that would be sad...
Excellent car All American,
Right down to the wires.
rudder11 3 years ago
Nice motor. I know it well which raises a question about the distributor. It should be a dual-point centrifugal advance distributor, with no vacuum advance. Actually the original dual point dist was a rock solid performer, but I suspect they are very expensive to get today.
dinkledorph 3 years ago
Had just got the car running with another distributor correct for a 66 non hipo while awaiting the components to arrive in the mail to replace the dual points with a digital electronic system under the cap. On a hot 289, full mechanical advance works quite a bit better than using a vacuum advance.
donlugohs 3 years ago
i bet she's a ripper! 289 is a good motor w/Hi-Po options and 4spd.
sweendog1969 3 years ago
Lots of top end horsepower and surprisingly a lot of torque, and that's coming from someone who is spoiled by the torque and horsepower from a 440 magnum.
donlugohs 3 years ago
not a big fan of those wheels get the 66 fastback's, the rest though is dope!
BDthizzin 3 years ago
What you see are hubcaps, and the fastbacks came standard with exactly the same hubcaps. Are you referring to rally wheels?
donlugohs 3 years ago
I used to say a solid lifter engine sounds like a "Busy Office"...LOL..Nice car!
TechMaven 3 years ago
dude throw some nice headers on that
mlbbman 3 years ago
Thanks for the suggestion, but there are a few reasons it doesn't have headers on it. First, original high performance headers flow very nearly as well as a standard set of headers. Second, they are original manifolds to a pretty rare engine option. Third, headers often have fitment issues and clog up the compartment a bit in the case that I needed or wanted to do some work.
donlugohs 3 years ago
owned again ^^^
doodles6857 3 years ago
you have lifter tick dont play it off
muskyrush 3 years ago
Hehe, you don't seem to be familiar with these engines so let me explain. What you hear isn't "lifter tick" as you wrongly call it, it is the noise of ALL valvetrain components hitting each other when the 15 thou of lash is eaten up by movement. It is exactly as it should sound in a true solid lifter engine, and a strong point in showing this is a K-code engine, not some hydraulic lifter copycat. Please know what you're talking about in the future before making silly "know it all" comments.
donlugohs 3 years ago
owned. ^^^
doodles6857 3 years ago
could you tell me what liter a 289 ford would be to help settle a little debate?
thyringmaster 3 years ago
A stock bore (4.00") and stock stroke (2.87") 289 is a 4.7L engine
donlugohs 3 years ago
I love my 64 mustang 170
fun to drive and fix up. yours looks good
hackmattr 3 years ago
you gota love a ford v8 with a top loader
swisherboi 3 years ago
Very nice
PurplehippoGK 3 years ago
Is the car for sale? If so how much?
nls8520 3 years ago
Hehe nope sorry, this car has been in the family forever and is going nowhere.
donlugohs 3 years ago
congrats man it must of been fun fixing her up, enjoy!
mgsucks 3 years ago
hot car!!!
LindaWSparks 3 years ago
This sound is...awesome... :o~~~~~~
jaminoga 3 years ago
nice car!!!
LoVeStern 4 years ago
Hey, nice car by the way! I hear that these things don't handle to well? is this so?
JANNOSPR 4 years ago
Thanks - the high performance models do handle pretty well with stiffer sway bars and quicker ratio steering. Base models without high performance suspension do not corner like anything special as those were built as inexpensive vehicles to get from point A to point B economically.
donlugohs 4 years ago
ya thats true on a bone stock mustang set aside the shelbies
arabrockerman 3 years ago
The sound from the 289 is nothing like I've ever heard before . Nice job
vegasdrunk21 4 years ago
that 289 sounds pretty nice. not bad for a small block. but some of my friends run solid lift cams and dont have that mild knocking sound. but obviously you built it and know about your own motor more than me. nice though...!
408Sleeper 4 years ago
Yeah built this motor from the ground up. The reason its louder than you'd think is probably because of the style of solid lifters. They are Chet Herbert lifters made from hydraulic lifter bodies. Instead of a piston in the body, it's essentially a solid cylinder with a cup for the pushrod ball and a C-clip to hold it in. The solid cylinder in the body rattles around a tiny bit if you shake the lifter. This bit of freeplay is what causes the noise.
donlugohs 4 years ago
hey. i'm from europe.. and absolutely mad about this car.. how much would it cost one of these in the us ? how much is your car worth?
radioheadski 4 years ago
The value of a 1966 Mustang coupe with a K-code 289 hipo and a 4spd manual transmission is pretty high, $25,000-$40,000 varying from good to excellent condition
donlugohs 4 years ago
I like everything except the hubcaps and it isn't very loud. The ticking of the engine was MUCH louder than the exhaust, but only when it was idling. Plus, on your next video could you show the K-code? Thats why i watched the video was to see a K-code Hi-Po, but you didn't show the actual K-code on the car.
blkhwkrising 4 years ago
Your comment is interesting, but you have no way of knowing how loud it is -_- You have never heard it in real life, only through a digital camera movie with unidirectional sound that was divx encoded and then encoded by youtube again, i.e. horrible sound as is standard with youtube. Don't like the hubcaps? They're original to the car. The originality is what sets this Mustang apart. And no, I am not going to take a picture of my VIN number for you.
donlugohs 4 years ago
For one thing, i meant it isn't very loud in the video, never said in real life. Two, you don't have to show the entire VIN number, just the K. And two side notes: A LOT of mustangs have hubcaps, and your camera is one of the best i've seen sound and video wise on youtube...
blkhwkrising 4 years ago
Interesting, I don't think the sound and video from my digital camera is very good, been looking into a camcorder. Those hubcaps are the FACTORY ORIGINAL hubcaps and in good shape, and I'm still not going to take any pictures of the VIN. The hubcaps are unique as part of the package including the 289k and the 4spd..original AM rad works btw. Don't see many of those around, do you? Now, if I could just get it to go faster than my '68 Coronet R/T 440 Magnum...
donlugohs 4 years ago
Cool! A '68 Coronet R/T! But of course, the mustang is better IMO ;)
blkhwkrising 4 years ago
HAHA good luck trying to get a 289 faster than a 440 big block.... XD
fourstar7 4 years ago
It's a joke. But for argument's sake, I could get my 66 to beat my 68. I'm not going to change the K engine though, its plenty fast and works great, that and its been freshly rebuilt, I don't plan on touching it again for years.
donlugohs 4 years ago
I know some one that juked a K code. I wanted to kill him.
iwkyall 4 years ago
Dont Laugh, I've seen it done. I watched a well built Maverick 302 (very similar to 289/Mustang) Beat a very nice 70 Charger R/T several weekends in a row. Charger dude was really frustrated, and kept coming back with new improvements, and the Maverick continued to embarrass him. its been done
Stucifer 4 years ago
I have a 64 1/2 289 hi po K code mustang. Back in 68 it was turning 11:80's. Launched at 6000 rpm, shifted at 9800...all documented on the original time slips. It had twin 500cfm holleys, 5:89 gears an Art Carr C-4 Massively ported and polished heads, 12.5-1 pistons, etc. etc. It would eat a 427 Vette without a problem. It is all back to stock now.
cyclonesteve 3 years ago
Like how it sounds. wondering what brand mufflers you are using and can you post a video doing a launch and drive by? I am auditioning mufflers for my 65 K code.
289kford 4 years ago
It idles a bit differently now as I've done some stuff to the distributor. It has dual glasspacks, blue streaks I think, but they will be changed before too long. I will post a video of a launch and driveby *if* I can get ahold of a camcorder, the digital camera isn't good enough.
donlugohs 4 years ago
I have a 65 coupe/289/4spd and I bought the stainless Magnaflow set up. Has long tube headers and a Lunati cam. It sounds sweet!!!!!! Sets off lots of car alarms, but it's not too loud in the car. Nice, deep tone. It's funny, I don't like Flowmasters, but the owner at the muffler shop I use does. He says my car is one of the best he's heard!
monster289 4 years ago
Do you have any clips posted? Magnaflow type sound is what I'm looking for, I think. I don't want to vibrate my interior loose but want a deep sound, not a broken pipe type sound like some turbo mufflers give out. I am thinking about tri-y setup, right now mine is stock (original Ford mufflers about 40 years old). I have a clip posted, search 289 hipo, look for gray fastback.
289kford 4 years ago
No clips, sorry. My video camera is not working. It's a JVC, which must be Japanese for 'cheap crap', or 'will fail after warranty is up'. (I had a JVC tv, dvd player, and video camera, all with problems) I know, it's a whole other topic. Try the Magnaflows, I don't think anyone would not like them. Maybe look at the Edelbrock SDT mufflers. They don't have that "tinny" Flowmaster sound. Check out Edelbrock's site, there are sound clips.
monster289 4 years ago
Thats a true K code?
kracker0469 4 years ago 3
The ford 289 is my favorite V8. Call me whatcha want, can't change my opinion.
DemoFly 4 years ago
That is BEAUTIFUL, I'm doing an almost identical setup on my '67 289, good cam with dual glass, I just need to get the money first, minor details. Lol.
10secondfox 4 years ago
Thanks for the commet, glad you like it. It was a LOT of work to restore the engine compartment and rebuild the engine...and quite a bit of money too. I have since the video swapped distributors to a more tuneable aftermarket one, so the engine is quite a bit lopier when idling and makes a bit more power. Good luck with your project, make that 289 a screamer ;)
2xxhotcheetos 4 years ago
2xxhotcheeots in case you didnt guess is an alternate account.
donlugohs 4 years ago
Alternate account here too, forgot my other password so I made a new account. Got my engine pulled and cleaned, with the amount of oil and shit that was all over it before I am amazed at how true the cylinders are. I'm gonna stroke it to 3.250" but I'm not sure yet if I want to keep the cylinders and have a 327 or go the .030" overbore and do 331. Have a trickflow .541/.564" 256dur Trickflow cam with hydraulic rollers and roller rockers, Trickflow spiral flow heads and a gear drive timing set
mystang67 3 years ago
if that's a K-code you better hang on to that thing
mustangs4life07 4 years ago
It's been in the family since it was a baby, and it's not going anywhere.
donlugohs 4 years ago
thats what i like to hear
mustangs4life07 4 years ago
Atta boy.
DemoFly 4 years ago
yeaaaa..i think its more interesting and more ammusing to rev it with the carb then the pedals..lol..idky but its just better..
omygoodnessiluvit 4 years ago
i know its a solid lifter cam so it makes noise... but it sounds like one of them is ticking more than the others. i would check to make sure all rocker arms are tight before i really cranked on it. other than that awesome job on the car!
elementdude72 4 years ago
Rocker arm clearances have been checked twice (hot) and are dead on. We've taken it to the guy that ground our cam and he said it's so loud due to the type of solid lifters he supplied us with. They are proprietary Chet Herbert SBF solid lifters made out of hydraulic lifters. The piece of metal in the lifter has a bit of freeplay and will rattle a bit on its own if shaken.
donlugohs 4 years ago
He said the bit of extra freeplay is the cause of the louder ticking sound. In real life the volume of all the ticking is pretty similar, so no one thinks that one or two rockers are off.
donlugohs 4 years ago
did you do all the work by urself?
englisia1 4 years ago
Yes we did all the work by ourselves. If you want to count machine shop services like machining the crank, then no lol, don't have a full service machine shop in our garage. Other than that, we did 100% from teardown to rebuild.
donlugohs 4 years ago
Awesome Mustang!
KemazoProductions 4 years ago
that ticking is so loud
thetvirus 4 years ago
that is one sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet engine!
MartyKemp 4 years ago