Daniel, This is a great idea! It is so clever in that it may be the smallest of spots, making it easy for it to be installed on most any surface in the vehicle. I am going to install one in my Chevy Blazer... here is the rub: My blazer has a 24volt starter. Is the system your plans outline designed to carry such a load?
As far as I am aware, it is the simplest, cheapest and easiest form of electronic immobilizer to manufacture, install and operate. Plus it can prevent your vehicle being stolen by someone who has your keys!
If you can design a simpler one, feel free to share it with us.
with the 10k resistor to tranny base and 330k from emitter to base where dose the other end of the 10k resistor go to it wasent mentioned in the video
@afreethinkerer but dident the video say the wire from the tab of the scr goes to the g spot on the car to if so then there would be 2 wires one from scr tab and one from the 10k resister that isent showen going to the g spot on your car , in the video shows him soldering a thin wire to the scr tab to
Definitely only one wire which is soldered to one side of the 10K resistor - the other side of the resistor is soldered on to the base of the transistor. There's a schematic at the bottom of the "Tech Info" page on the website mentioned. Hope that helps.
TO220 cases don't like pop rivets, use a machine screw spring washer and locking nut instead - or if you have a big-enough iron just solder those parts together
why trim the heatshrink close to the crimp connectors?
normal crimp connector have several mm of insulation before the metal.
I bult a thyristor based kill switch in the 80s, it suffered from false triggering if I turned the wipers or heater fan on and off, I had to add a capacitor between gate and cathode to stop this.
Great observations - I normally use a Utilux 3132 ring crimp whose mounting hole is the right size to allow for the rivet to go through the copper, then the SCR then the ring crimp.
Trim or don't trim - if it shrinks smaller than the wire you want to fit to it later, you will need to trim it.
I also had issues with false triggering with my earlier prototypes - more info about this on the "Original Patent" page on the website - I've had no complaints of these getting falsely triggered
It can be used in the starting solenoid circuit to prevent the motor from turning over or to control a relay preventing power to the ignition coil or an electric fuel pump. It requires the operator to be earthed, usually via the ignition key/barrel, at the same time as they operate their vehicles G-Spot. So a thief would have to either find the G-Spot and have the keys or bypass the control unit(s) physically which would mean either getting under the bonnet or behind the dash which takes time.
Daniel, This is a great idea! It is so clever in that it may be the smallest of spots, making it easy for it to be installed on most any surface in the vehicle. I am going to install one in my Chevy Blazer... here is the rub: My blazer has a 24volt starter. Is the system your plans outline designed to carry such a load?
edpdx 1 month ago
you call this simple?
flamedrag18 8 months ago
@flamedrag18
As far as I am aware, it is the simplest, cheapest and easiest form of electronic immobilizer to manufacture, install and operate. Plus it can prevent your vehicle being stolen by someone who has your keys!
If you can design a simpler one, feel free to share it with us.
afreethinkerer 8 months ago
with the 10k resistor to tranny base and 330k from emitter to base where dose the other end of the 10k resistor go to it wasent mentioned in the video
stevenchiverton 1 year ago
Thanks for pointing that out - that's where the wire that goes to the "G-Spot" is soldered on.
afreethinkerer 1 year ago
@afreethinkerer but dident the video say the wire from the tab of the scr goes to the g spot on the car to if so then there would be 2 wires one from scr tab and one from the 10k resister that isent showen going to the g spot on your car , in the video shows him soldering a thin wire to the scr tab to
stevenchiverton 1 year ago
@stevenchiverton
Definitely only one wire which is soldered to one side of the 10K resistor - the other side of the resistor is soldered on to the base of the transistor. There's a schematic at the bottom of the "Tech Info" page on the website mentioned. Hope that helps.
afreethinkerer 1 year ago
Were can i find this tools so i can make my one G-spot??
people tried to steal my car a couple of times.
sk8ter4life1 2 years ago
Not sure where you live but most electronic suppliers will stock all the parts & tools required. Thanks
afreethinkerer 2 years ago
TO220 cases don't like pop rivets, use a machine screw spring washer and locking nut instead - or if you have a big-enough iron just solder those parts together
why trim the heatshrink close to the crimp connectors?
normal crimp connector have several mm of insulation before the metal.
I bult a thyristor based kill switch in the 80s, it suffered from false triggering if I turned the wipers or heater fan on and off, I had to add a capacitor between gate and cathode to stop this.
z404 2 years ago
Great observations - I normally use a Utilux 3132 ring crimp whose mounting hole is the right size to allow for the rivet to go through the copper, then the SCR then the ring crimp.
Trim or don't trim - if it shrinks smaller than the wire you want to fit to it later, you will need to trim it.
I also had issues with false triggering with my earlier prototypes - more info about this on the "Original Patent" page on the website - I've had no complaints of these getting falsely triggered
Cheers
afreethinkerer 2 years ago
And how exactly does this stop somebody pinching one's car ?
geoffwoodwogga 2 years ago
It can be used in the starting solenoid circuit to prevent the motor from turning over or to control a relay preventing power to the ignition coil or an electric fuel pump. It requires the operator to be earthed, usually via the ignition key/barrel, at the same time as they operate their vehicles G-Spot. So a thief would have to either find the G-Spot and have the keys or bypass the control unit(s) physically which would mean either getting under the bonnet or behind the dash which takes time.
afreethinkerer 2 years ago