Added: 2 years ago
From: farmerrey
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  • Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.

  • This is the best video of How to Do IT! I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing all your experience.

  • Dude, this is awesome carpentry porn. Do you make and sell face plates and doors? If I want to build the kitchen cabinet boxes myself? 

  • @MrJones706 Porn... I'm confused

  • @farmerrey Carpentry porn. Meaning, umm really cool and exciting carpentry. It is a compliment and not meant to be taken literally. There is no sexual component to it. It is sort of a nerdy internet thing. When something interests you and in exciting, you call it (fill in the blank porn). Just wait, now that someone has said it to you, you will hear it all the time.

  • @farmerrey He's saying this was so informative and well done, that if this series was a girl, she'd be pinup model perfect.

  • That was a nice tip at the end showing about the x marked up to the fence of the jointer, in case the fence is even the smallest out of square

    Thanks

  • Bonito, pero al cortar com la sierra circular hace falta seguridad! (safety is first!), el aproxima la mano peligrosamente al disco de corte!, no haga eso en casa!.

  • great video and great ideas from this. i wish i could use that heavy handtools. haha

  • Wow, it's nice to see the effort (and tools) that goes into custom cabinets to help show why they cost what they do. Thanks.

  • wish me luck as i attempt to make some frame/cabinets using hand tools!

    Manual saws, pegs for joining frames. Using doors from an old 70's kitchen and painting them.

    Have an orbital sander to finish frames. Wish me luck here in the UK with my Edwadian kitchen.....if only i had your work shop and skills. Am renovating the whole house...

  • you know what yur doin dude,dammit man,i want that shop.

  • Hot!

  • awesome shop.  you have every tool you could possibly want or need. i like your ff assembly vertical table. toggle clamps, mounted on a slide rail would speed that up even more. just a suggestion.

  • Great jobs in the videos =)

  • So.... the vertical 2'' face frames are over hanging the outside of the cabinet by 1.25''. That's 2'' face frame minus the .75" width of the cabinet plywood.

    IS THIS CORRECT??

    And to install, your cutting filler stock between cabinets???

    Thanks so much for posting this video, with the help of this direction, i'm doing my own cabinets at home.

    Alan

    Memphis, TN

  • @thealanalan17 Where two cabinets come together I only use 1" stiles (vertical ff). With the two, it equals 2", so all the cabinets put together look like one giant cabinet. That leaves me with a little under a 1/4 of an inch of overhang for the ff which allows for scribe if necessary. I do use filler between cabinets. After install, I put in 1/4" panels on the bottom of the uppers to hide everything.

  • wow winslow maine im in winslow maine sweet

  • This is a great series Chris. Thank you, but quick question. I have a skill saw, hammer, screwdriver and hand sander. You think its possible to build cheap, but good quality, wood cabinets with the tools I have or should I just go buy them from a whole sale place?

    thanks,

    Craig

  • Hey chris ...... great kitchen. Have you seen the latest product from Kreg? It's a beaded face frame kit that will save you hours! It will also guarantee a great colour match ... you dont need to consider the colour of the beading as there isnt any. Just check it out on the Kreg new products on their site. Good luck.

  • I am please to know that you do indeed use ear protection. There are still many out there who ignore safety, case in point, safety guard on tablesaws. I had a man in my shop today who doesn't use his, Shame. Lorraine

  • How much would you charge to purchase finished stock pieces of wood like in this video? If you do sell finished stock pieces do ship to customers?

  • @5ofNov finished stock? Faceframe or door stock?

  • I was supprised to see that you did not use ear protection when running your tools.

  • @lowrainehope I am, look closely. I use the uncomfortable "stick em in your ear" jobies. I can't stand the low hum associated with the full on ear muffs, drives me crazy. I used to use those when using my farm equipment and found the low hum was much more painful than the high pitched sounds. The ear plugs cut out the highs associated with planing, datoing, and router use.

  • @lowrainehope As a added note, you dont need ear protection UNLESS your exposed to high decibels for a continuous period (running the machines for 5hrs straight.)

  • Chris -this clears things up. For insets, Blum recommends a horizontal block inside the cabinets so that the slide can be attached even with the face frame. You accomplish that by keeping the face frame and cabinet side even. Again, thanks for clearing this up. I was confused. Also, I really appreciated your advice on the confirmat screws and pilot bit. Skip

  • Chris - two questions about the face frames...getting ready to cut mine. 1) What is the width of your side and horizontal face frames? 2) I'm confused on where you attach these to the cabinet...how much overhang is there inside and outside the cabinet front? I am building inset cabinet doors and drawers w/ the bead mold. You can say you have provided an EXCELLENT model and method.

    Skip

  • @Skip28060 Skip... in an inset application I make the overall width of the verticals and horizontals 2" with the bead. No overhang on the inside of the ff's with the exception of the top. Having the ff's flush with the sides makes attaching drawer slides and hinge hardware super easy. Having the bottom of the ff flush with the deck is nice because everything slides out nicely without hitting. I know... seems like wasted space between cabs, but, makes install easier with scribes and such.

  • Chris - I'm confused as to your faceframe dimensions? Did you say you build them to fit flush with the insides of the cabinet carcass? Can you explain why you do this...and then...what is the total width of the sides of the faceframe. I think I'm wrong, but it sounds like the sides of the face frames would be about 3/4 inch...to fit the width of the carcass. Tx, Skip

  • Chris - I notice the wood racks on the wall. Setting up a shop now, need something similar for 10 ft walls. Are those custom/welded or a commercial product?

  • @Skip28060 Skip, it's custom welded. 10 foot channel iron sections with channel iron welded on the horizontal. Very strong. There is a "foot" at the bottom that takes the brunt of the weight, it is lagged to the wall every 18" or so.

  • Great video it is the little things that make a huge difference in custom cabinets great job, also nice shop layout

  • great video...good content.....enjoyed, thanks....wanted to respond to artisan22456 comment below.....find a good local mentor you can talk to....look in yellow pages etc, make phone calls..etc...be persistent finding good contacts (friends) and knowledge...it will get you far...good luck and watch these videos again, you've missed some things first time watching for sure.....:0 :)

  • Hey Chris, What advice do you have for a 16 yr old thats looking to start theyre own custom cabinetry business after highschool. I plan to take as many construction and custom woodworking courses at my school as I can. I'm just wondering if theres anything I should know from a pro. Thanks, Nate.

  • I'm surprised you don't face your rough boards on a jointer before thicknessing. Don't you have problems with non-flat stock?

  • @mithrandir10001 The stock is relatively flat as we hand pick all our cherry. The spiral cutterhead on the planer takes care of the rest

  • I'll have to give some thought to a spiral cutter on my next planer. You must have a very easy-going and understanding lumber supplier.

  • @mithrandir10001 I put a spiral cutter on both my jointer and planer. It cost around 1500 or so, but well worth it. They make cutterheads to fit most planers.

  • Not the DeWalt portable I currently use. When I get a more industrial unit, I'll consider it.

  • @farmerrey The Shelix cutters look like they have come down in price. The one I got for my 8" jointer was 375. I rented a bearing puller from the auto parts store and put the bearings on the journals myself.

  • @farmerrey Chris - any idea what the moisture content is on the rough wood your're working with? I will be using rough oak soon on kitchen. Tx Skip

  • @Skip28060 6%. Use kiln dried if possible

  • what name machine for finger join door??

  • Thanks for your information Bro!!

  • Chris -great set of videos. Wish I had some of your tools! Love the 13 hole drill setup and the Kreg pocket system. Question for u: You seem to build all of your cabinets as individual units, each having a separate face frame. For the Norm kitchen, he builds 1 box that has one faceframe, but is divided into maybe two banks of drawers. I like your method because you get really good at making your base units, but I like his method because you use less material, but it may not work on all jobs? Ron

  • @rtkothe Ron- I build separate units for the ease of installation. I am often on my own for installs, single boxes are easier to handle for scribes. Savings in material would get eaten up by install help.

  • Good videos.

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