I want to replace a worn barrel on my Yugo M70, but I have a good 1.6mm receiver. I want to save the receiver and replace the barrel. Can this be done and how?
If I can reach the back of the rivet, I just cut it off with a sharp cold chisel. Then the rivet punches right out. If I can't get to the back side, then I drill it out from the head side.
That's not always true, I've seen some sloppy factory rivet heads that were not on center with the shank, that will not locate you on exact center of the rivet. Suppose it's a polish demil with no factory head, what now? I still don't see how any of this relates to your claim that I don't know what I'm doing, nor do I understand where your beef with me lies.
all though it is hard to see where your drill placement is... the rivet is not squashed over in the hole. a rivet is 2 sides as you know. there is a factory head, (this style you have is universal , ms470) and there is the shop head.( the side that gets bucked... aka squashed)
always drill the center of the factory head and you will be centered with the hole
if drilling from the factory head. by being center on the head you will
well , it takes only 1 minute to remove all of those rivets if you do it properly. get yourself a pneumatic palm drill, or even a cordless. if you are drilling out a 1/8 rivet , use a #30 drill bit .... not a countersink ,
drill only deep enough to take the head off the rivet, if you are in the center and drilling straight the head will fall off.. continue drilling after the head is removed. or knock it out with a 1/8 punch.
These are 30 year old rivets that are often corroded into the bore, they don't always just punch out, especially on the lower ears. I have seen more trunnions cracked and holes egged out from people trying to do this quickly. The reason I start with the countersink drill is so that the bit doesn't walk and I can get the hole perfectly centered. This allows me to form perfect rivet heads because the rivet isn't tilting in an overbored hole when it is being compressed.
the hole diameter of a 1/8 rivet is 0.1285 not .1406
another way to do it is to drill the center with a 1/8 drill bit... just enough that the head is about to fall off, and use a cold chisel to take off the head. , then punch out the tail.
Ah twohundredandfortypixels, my old friend.
no0such0luck 4 months ago
I am having a tough time drilling out and removing the long rivets on my AK Fixed stock trunnion.
orlandocracker 4 months ago
I want to replace a worn barrel on my Yugo M70, but I have a good 1.6mm receiver. I want to save the receiver and replace the barrel. Can this be done and how?
troopcom 7 months ago
If I can reach the back of the rivet, I just cut it off with a sharp cold chisel. Then the rivet punches right out. If I can't get to the back side, then I drill it out from the head side.
sergeantsailorman 1 year ago
great video. thanks for showing some of us who want to build how.keep up the great work
odinn62 2 years ago
Great video!
chrissypoo90 2 years ago
That's not always true, I've seen some sloppy factory rivet heads that were not on center with the shank, that will not locate you on exact center of the rivet. Suppose it's a polish demil with no factory head, what now? I still don't see how any of this relates to your claim that I don't know what I'm doing, nor do I understand where your beef with me lies.
BuildyourownAK 2 years ago 3
all though it is hard to see where your drill placement is... the rivet is not squashed over in the hole. a rivet is 2 sides as you know. there is a factory head, (this style you have is universal , ms470) and there is the shop head.( the side that gets bucked... aka squashed)
always drill the center of the factory head and you will be centered with the hole
if drilling from the factory head. by being center on the head you will
KELBYL 2 years ago
well , it takes only 1 minute to remove all of those rivets if you do it properly. get yourself a pneumatic palm drill, or even a cordless. if you are drilling out a 1/8 rivet , use a #30 drill bit .... not a countersink ,
drill only deep enough to take the head off the rivet, if you are in the center and drilling straight the head will fall off.. continue drilling after the head is removed. or knock it out with a 1/8 punch.
KELBYL 2 years ago
These are 30 year old rivets that are often corroded into the bore, they don't always just punch out, especially on the lower ears. I have seen more trunnions cracked and holes egged out from people trying to do this quickly. The reason I start with the countersink drill is so that the bit doesn't walk and I can get the hole perfectly centered. This allows me to form perfect rivet heads because the rivet isn't tilting in an overbored hole when it is being compressed.
BuildyourownAK 2 years ago
this is absolutely painful to watch, you have no clue what you are doing
KELBYL 2 years ago
Please elaborate.
BuildyourownAK 2 years ago
the hole diameter of a 1/8 rivet is 0.1285 not .1406
another way to do it is to drill the center with a 1/8 drill bit... just enough that the head is about to fall off, and use a cold chisel to take off the head. , then punch out the tail.
KELBYL 2 years ago
A++ I watched it again
welshwarrior 3 years ago
A++ rivet removal. Would watch again
welshwarrior 3 years ago