Added: 2 years ago
From: AllThingzVideo
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  • Quick question... I have 96' which pretty much looks like the same engine. do you happen to know where the Oil pressure sensor is on that car? and is a difficult part to change?

  • @N33D2BFR33 Oil pressure sensor is typically located above and around the oil filter. Not difficult to change. Just unplug connector, soak with PB Blaster, remove sensor, put teflon tape on threads of new sensor, re-install, plug in connector, start engine and check for leaks. Done. However, these typically dont go bad. You sure you dont have a spun bearing?

  • I got 264,000 miles out of my Taurus the only repair was a leaking water pump where the heater hose connects. I repaired it with JB Weld.

  • @DONDIVA1969 Mine leaked there too. Ive got a video to upload on that repair. The hole was too big and the pipe too rusty to avoid changing it. That job was a B#tch! :\

  • did u ever get rid of the hesitation?

  • @privateblue its was the VSS. Vehicle Speed Sensor. Watch that video of replacing it on my channel.

  • I just got a '99 about a week ago and the transmission is acting like you explained in the beginning of your description. Did it start shifting smoother after these repairs?

  • @PrestoneFuegoKL No, it was the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Watch that video in my collection to see where that is and how to change it. Its inexpensive and works like magic to fix the shift / studder start problem. Let me know how it goes. Thanks

  • Thats is the better transmission

  • please tell me how you cleaned your air intake step by step please

  • @kantgetrite803 I used a plastic scrapper and a shop vac. Leaving the butterfly valve closed, scrape the black crud while holding the hose of the shop vac over the intake hole. Soak a clean rag with throttle body cleaner and stuff it in the hole and let it sit to disolve the crud. Then, prop the secondary butterfly valve open and do the same for underneath. I used a dremel with a soft stone to polish the intake plenum ports. Spray cleaner inside and let it run out the other end. Blowdry it all.

  • My sister has a

    1999 ford taurus, it doesn't start, nor does it shift into gear when it does. Can you help in determining what could be the problem, she can not get it to a place where she can get it tested for the problems

  • @Ladyamr7 You say it doesnt start. Does it crank over but not fire? Turn the key to the on position but do not crank the car. Listen for the fuel pump to run breifly. Should pump for a second or so. If you do not hear the pump, it is shot. The filter could also be plugged. Not shifting into gear could be trans very low on fluid or linkage broken or troque convertor shot.

  • Nice, i'm at 206,000 on my OHV 99 taurus. These cars sure are strong.

  • Can you tell me the firing order for the Taurus 1999?

  • @MrJabroni65 you shouldnt need to know them, change one plug and wire at a time and all is well. But you can look it up on autozone's website.

  • @MrJabroni65 Which engine? All are 1-4-2-5-3-6. The 3.0L OHV engine, the coil pack is perpendicular to the firewall and number one ir at the top right corner, 2 below it, then 3. 5 is on the top left, then 6 below it, then 4. On the 3.0L OHC Duratec, the coil pack is parallel with the firewall. Bottom right is 1, then 2 to the left, then 3. Top right, toward the firewall is 5, then 6 to the left, then 4.

  • What problems would you notice with a 1999 Ford Tarus if the fuel pump or fuel filter is bad?

  • @CocoaBFly lack of power/hesitation in idling and when its running

  • hope you replaced that stupid steel rad hose,they always rust to hell and end up busting eventually

  • @This0is0pointless Yes, I did. It sprung a pinhole leak. I have a video of that job somewhere I have to upload. It was a bitch trying to get the new hose up in there. The hose was $220 only available from the dealer!! Now I gotta find that vid, forgot about that one. Thanks.

  • @AllThingzVideo yeah getting it in there is a huge pain in the ass,i picked one up from NAPA for $150

    Part Number: BK 8273700

  • My 96 ford taurus wont shift from park does anyone know whats wrong?!!!

  • @heathermachelle1 Is the shift lever "stuck"? The brake interlock could be froze up. Also, Check under the hood near the fire wall down on the trans axle while someone else works the shift lever. Make sure the linkage is actuating the shift pawl on the transmission. Check the fluid, if too low, the trans wont engage. I need more symptoms in order to help.

  • @heathermachelle1  maybe your rear brake lamps are out. Have someone help check if your rear lamps work.

  • hey AllThingzvideo, is there any way to test the VSS ? I have horrible lag/hesitation from a dead stop when i put my foot to the floor or almost to the floor. then the engine revs up to about 4k and then all of a sudden it shifts and is on its way? my car is also a 99 taurus dohc 24v 3.0L. Fuel filter is pretty much new. spark plugs and wires i changed not too long ago and swapped the coil pack with a used one just for the hell of it cause my grandpa had a spare.

  • @googema Testing would be difficult without a really good scan tool like at the dealer. The part is cheap enough that replacing in your case is a really good idea. It will only get worse as time goes on and you may throw a lot of money at it trying to fix the problem when the VSS was bad all along. I would just replace it and be done with it.

  • My taurus is kinda shaky or trembly, not all the time though but i do notice it in my car, what could u think it is, also the steering wheel gets hard when stopped but smooth when running but no whining noise from the power steering pump, what could u think it is, thank u and nice video

  • interesting

  • Thanks for all your help and we live in upstate NY 1 mile south of Canadian Border I have a mechanic here he's awesome but sometimes can't find everything haha but we go to our old mechanic about 40 miles away and he knows the family and we trust him .....no thats one thing I never done in my life is run out of gas and Im 45 been close alot of times gambling with the fuel light haha hopefully we will work it out but thanks so much for keep responding

  • not really from a stop but seems to happen mostly on hills like my wife is using my jeep and Im using her car for 2 days and on flats great but if we hit a hill then its like you said seems to starve for fuel and hesitates but Im taking it to a mechanic tommorow as im not mechanically inclined at all haha Im hoping its just a fuel filter because thats never been changed If it were cylinders I would think light would come on but no light....thanks for your advice and responses...

  • @adkbeau Have you ever run the car out of gas and then attempted to start it for long periods? The fuel pump gets damaged when things like that happen. Gas lubricates and keeps the pump cool. Also, there are several screens or "socks" that filter the fuel prior to entering the pump in the tank. Excessive dirt could clog them up and when going up or down a steep hill, the pump starves for fuel. Engine or drivetrain issues almost always light the check engine light. Good luck.

  • @adkbeau When my car was acting up, I took it to a very good mechanic and he tested it on a high dollar snap-on computer. He did not find the VSS problem and told me it needed a trans fluid change. I had just changed it several months before that (this video) He changed it again. $200+ later and the problem was not fixed. So even the pros sometimes cant figure it out. Ask a lot of questions and ask to see the data before paying big repair bills!

  • hi guy well I took it yesterday to bring kids to school we added a full tank of super and can of dry gas it did fine up the hill near our house but near the city were my kids go to school it acted up a little kind of hesitation and stutter ... but worked itself out but im not mechanically inclined and we have apt thurs to see whats going on hopefully something simple as fuel filter... when I had the 98 Camaro worst car ever for repairs was cylinder. Ford has no light come on thanks

  • @adkbeau is it hesitation from a stop? If so, it may be the VSS. (vehicle speed sensor) see my other video on replacing that. My Taurus did the same thing for months until I finally figured it out. It would shudder and buck and act like it was starving for fuel going from 1st to 2nd gear. I changed a lot of parts trying to fix it. The VSS tells the PCM when to shift and when its broke the car just doesnt drive right at all!

  • @AllThingzVideo  Ive had a NSS/Transmission range sensor go bad causing the same symptoms.

  • @AllThingzVideo i thought it was a misfire when it did that

  • Wow your mechanically inclined I'm not we bought a ford taurus 2001 with 30 thousand miles on it last year for 5 grand. we drive alot and now has 90 thousand miles but this weekend wife says its hesitating so I said hhhhmmm can be plugs wires fuel filter bad gas so she took it today it acted up once so tonight I said lets fill it up and add dry gas but coming home on the hill did it again what do you think? could it be cylinders misfiring Id like advice before I go to garage???

  • @adkbeau so many things it could be. Sounds like an issue under load. First thing I would check is catalytic convertor overheating/ plugged. Is your engine light on? Could also be the coil pack breaking down when hot or even the fuel pump beginning to fail. I need more symptoms and when it occurs. ie only at road speed, from a stop and start, rough idle, etc. Send me a PM with full details I will offer whatever advice I can.

  • where is the thermostat on the engine (DOHC)

    THANKS

  • @obedalfredo Below the throttle body, down inside the lower intake manifold. Follow the top-most radiator hose where it is rubber down in toward the engine. The housing at the end is the thermostat housing. Not a lot of room to work there. May need to remove upper items to gain access.

  • i have a 99 tauras with the dohc engine with 89000 miles. when the engine is cold it cranks an extra few cranks to fire up and while driving there's hesitation annd lack of power and bad gas milage. do you have any idea's? i have a new fuel filter and fuel pump, plugs and wires only have 3000 miles on them and i had to get a cam sensor but that didn't help. the only thing i could think of is the injectors or ignition coil pack. any idea's is greatly apreciated.

  • @MrStevens1989 First off, is your check engine light on? There are so many systems that effect performance. That's pretty low mileage to be having those problems. I would start by removing the EGR valve and cleaning it out. If this valve is stuck or sticking, the engine will run very rough and lack power. Especially upon accel from a stop. This valve should only open at road speeds. When it opens near idle or at start, it leans the engine out too much, causing these problems.

  • @AllThingzVideo i have a new egr valve and no check engine light on. it doesnt accelerate smoothly like it should and while driving on the highway you'll feel it loose a little power for a couple seconds and then pick back up. it does that repeatedly while on the highway

  • I have a 2005 Duratec 2.3L in my Escape with 138000 on the clock. Your videos have given me even more faith in these duratec engines!! I'm also impressed that you took the time to remove the intake plenum and give it TLC. Those "tumbles" or swirl plates for the VLI can get carbon locked, break off, and end up in the combustion chamber!

  • Thanks for the video! I'm starting tomorrow replacing my brakes, but seeing this makes me want to do more! Thanks.

  • @proc1028 You're welcome. I did do a lot in this video. If there is anything specific you have questions on, please ask. I am glad to help.

  • Great video

  • @kcaddy87 Thank you!

  • Also, I have gained a lot of respect for the Ford Motor Company after they refused the government TARP loan.

  • Thanks for the awesome video. I was wondering if you have any experience removing the alternator? There are a lot of pipes and hoses that make it hard to get to. Would it be worthwhile to try to remove these first?

  • @nfcopier1 What year is your Duratec? Removal will be easier from either underneath the car or from the RH fenderwell area. If its 2000 or newer, the crankshaft pulley will have to be removed for removal clearance. Just changing the serp belt on these engines is a chore! That area is extremely tight. I would not attempt from the top, too much in the way. Start under the car.

  • @AllThingzVideo Mine is a 1999 Duratec DOHC 3.0L 24V. I pulled of the front passenger tire and the plastic inner fenders. It looks like I only have access to the bottom bolt from there. I added a video response that shows some of the issues I'm having. Thanks for your help!

  • cont... start after ive shut it off (having run it for at least 10 minutes) and i once again have to wait for 15 or more minutes before it will start. i was thinking the fuel pump is the issue i just would like some input before i spend the money and replace the pump

  • @bigwoodtommy Gas is the lubricant for pumps and keeps them cool. If you run the car out of gas and then attempt to start it over and over, the fuel pump will get hot and burn out. Electricity flows "easier" in cold metal so perhaps the marginal pump may have worked better during the winter. The "wait to start" period is allowing it to cool down. Once the pump spins up at start, it generally keeps going. Its when you shut the car off & then try to start it that you find it is dead for good.

  • hey i have a 99 ford taurus 3.0 duratec and last fall before it got cold i was running it low on fuel alot (cos of money issues at the time) and it began to not start for me after i would stop at a gas station or stop anywhere for only a few minutes. it would only start if i waited 15 or more minutes and tried it again. once it got cold out it started running fine with the exception of occasionally sputtering, now that its once again getting warm out it has resumed its behavior of refusing CONT.

  • Love the video, it's amazing that you made this video several years ago and still are answering questions about it, thanks for your time and I also wanted to mention that I loved the part where you said" clean that shit out of there"! Classic! Also I agree with your debate with the other guy about his import vs. your american vehicle. The guy should have just said thanks but great response. I also have a 1999 Ford Taurus V6 24V DOHC.. 170000 miles. Thanks again for all your help..

  • @intsurf Thanks for your positive comments. My Taurus is well over 205,000 now and still running excellent! Plenty of pulling power left. Only a few minor issues but nothing that keeps me from enjoying it still. Its all in how you take care of them.

  • gotta love your secondairy air runners

  • @g20s10silveradoman True! I knew they were in there but wasnt sure how they were laid out until I got it apart. I was surprised to see that each cylinder gets double the air input above 3500 RPM and you definitely feel it pull! :)

  • Those 3.0 pushrod engines run forever! I have a 99 se that has 250000 on it. Just had the plugs and wires changed at 210000 because it was missing on one cylinder. A little bit of a tranny slip, but other than that it runs perfect. 29 mpg average! Lots of hwy driving.

  • @stover77 Keep after the routine maintenance and it will run another 100k for you!

  • Yes it is a 3.0 duratec thank you for your help.I have another question its about a 1976 F100 2WD.How long will it take and do i need any special tools to change the centerlink bar with all the ball joints on it. 

  • @88quadzilla88 Not really familiar with that repair, sorry. If ball joints are involved you will need a puller or pickle fork to separate them. A torch is probably going to come in handy too if its been on there a while! Good luck.

  • @88quadzilla88 theres an easyer way i have a 1999 taurus and all you have to do is losen the motor mounts and tip the motor forward,easy.

  • @headace444 Ty very much for your reply bro greatly appreciated take care

  • @88quadzilla88

    hey do you know where the fuel pressure regulator is at ?

  • @tito421788 sorry bro i dont

  • When i turn the wheel left or right all the way it starts leaking fluid.Can any one tell me where the powersteering pump is located and is it an easy fix.Hoping its just a hose or the pump bolts are loose.A video off where its located would be so helpfull or information of getting at it from the top or bottom.

  • @88quadzilla88 Is it a 3.0 Duratec? If so the power steering pump is located right at the top on the belt side of the engine. The reservoir sits on the strut tower next to the washer fluid bottle. Follow the hoses down from the ps bottle. This sounds like a blown rack and pinion! That is not an easy job and may cost upwards of $1,000 to replace it! Its a lot of work! Jack the car up and watch near the firewall for fluid escaping around the inner tie rod boots. Good luck.

  • @AllThingzVideo Yes it is the 3.0 duratec.Didn't think i'd get a response so fast thank you very much.Could you tell me how many hours and if i need any special tools to change the center link bar on a 1976-F100 2wd.Thats the bar with all the ball joints on it.

  • @88quadzilla88 Yes it is the 3.0 duratec. Ty very much for your help.I have another question this time its about a 1976 F-100 2WD.Could you tell me if i need any special tools to change the centerlink bar.Thats the bar with all the ball joints and approx time it will take.

  • needs band adjustment or shift cable adjustment

  • @jayguy173 Actually ended up needing a new VSS. Drove it messed up for 8 or 9 months before I finally figured it out with the help from the guys at TCCA.

  • Did you know that if you pull off the wiper arms, and the top and bottom pieces of the plastic cowl assembly at the base of the windshield, you DON'T have to remove the UIM to get to the 3 rear bank spark plugs. Rock on, TCCA!

  • I have a 99 Taurus that hesitates and sputters going down the road. I changed the plugs and wires about 3 days ago and it's still doing it. Any ideas on how to make it better or fix it? I'm starting to think it has something to do with the transmission but i'm not a 100% sure. Thanks.

  • @joesmxracing Does it feel like a shift problem from 1st to 2nd? Does it idle ok cold or hot? is the check engine light on? Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Give me a better idea of when the problem occurs ie driving under load, taking off from a stop, rough idle etc. I can help....

  • @AllThingzVideo Alright thanks. I'll send you a message and explain in more detail.

  • Sup, need some help please. I have a 96 sable but they are basically the same thing as it seems in this vid.... So in minute 3:04 of your video, if you freeze it right there you can see right at the middle top a red cable, right? that is a plug that has some kind of 3 mini cables on them when I took the intake up like you, that was unpluged, and the 3 mini cables also were unpluged, and now I can't seem to find where they all go, specially if you follow the cable down, there is a yellow one.

  • @Thedarkaztek That is a vacuum line that splits off and comes around under the throttle body. There is a 90 degree rubber boot on the top of it. It plugs into the port on the back of the intake plenum. You can barely see it, more have to feel your way around back there. There is a better shot of it near the end of the video when I am checking the trans fluid. If you climb up onto the engine bay, you can peek behind the intake to see the port(s) hope this helps.

  • @Thedarkaztek around 9:16 of the video, I shine the flashlight on the plastic jacket that houses those hoses. Follow them up to see where they connect.

  • Holy shit man you did a great job on cleaning those manifolds out

  • @earlybird38 Thanks for the compliment! I like to be complete when I do these jobs. It took about 3 hours once I got rolling with it but it was worth it in the end.

  • @AllThingzVideo Yeah man I have a '96 Taurus GL station wagon and a '99 Ford Ranger and I changed the spark plugs, wires, trans filter, trans fluid, etc. Also do you have rough idleling in your car if you do than maybe you will need to clean out your IAC valve with some carburator cleaner. Also you should try cleaning out your EGR valve with some carb cleaner also I do not recommend degreaser on these components because they have rubber grommets inside that can get brittle and weak. Good luck

  • @earlybird38 Hey thanks. It doesnt really idle rough, only if it sits idleing for an extended period then it idles really low sometimes. The main problem is the hesitation and stuttering when start from a dead stop at operating temp. Its getting to be a pain bcuz if you try to take off too fast it slams into 2nd gear! Ive replaced ALOT of parts & it still does it! Wish I knew what it was! o.O

  • this guy is changing the plugs the hard way, he is not seeing everything.

  • @taurus467 Ive heard you can remove the cowl piece but I wanted to clean the intake anyway so I proceeded with complete tear-down.

  • Very cool man..a few questions: how did u determine how much tranny fluid to put in without overfilling? Also did u use mercon V? Ive read that most tranny shops won't service one with such high mileage, because the detergants in the new fluid will release any residue built up inside, and wreck it. Then they have an angry customer blaming the shop for a broken tranny. can u contest to this at all? has yours continued working fine?

  • @Franko94 I did use Mercron V and it took roughly 7 quarts to top it off I referred to the repair guide for amount required. I added about 5 1/2 and then started it & ran it till hot then kept adding fluid to full mark. I dont agree with the "releasing residue" statement. Changing any fluid is always a good thing! Whats more is that most fluids avail today are better than they were in 99. The trans is performing great and I feel good knowing the fluid and filter are fresh.

  • i enjoyed your video here, my mom has a 1999 taurus, there is a hose bottom of the motor i guess under the radiator area that is either made of metal or has sum metal on it, very long hose, i havent seen it, my brother was telling me, anyhow i was told it was $217 it has a bunch of holes in it, made the car overheat, do u have an idea what im talking about and how to replace that? tyvm

  • @Budsmoker72 The hose you are talking about does have several sensors in it and it runs from one side of the engine to the other across the middle lower front. It Y's off to feed the block and the radiator. Bcuz it is lower and in the front of the engine bay, it gets subjected to road grime and road salt in winters and does rust and become brittle. I have not had to change mine yet but I bet the time is coming soon. If you need more info, pease send a PM. Thanks!

  • I've heard that on Tauruses with the Duratec, that if you remove the plastic cowling thing under the wiper blades, that it gives you just enough room to get to the rear spark plugs.

  • I suppose that might be possible but your hand/ arm would have to be pretty small. Also, the coil pack would be in the way coming in from that angle leaving only a small opening between the plenum and the front edge of the coil pack to get at the center plug. The Duratec engine compartment is capital T - Tight! Just changing the serp belt is a challenge!... LOL

  • yeah i run the scan and it says the egr valve and sometimes the engime ligh come out some days its erase bby itself, i have by a new egr valve? and i want to know why the temperature of the cars changes sometimes is in the medium and others more lower what is this?

  • i got the same car but its feels like the car have no power very slow and heavy can you tell me whats wron? or what i have to clean or change

  • Well thats a broad general statement to troubleshoot in a comment? Start with the basics: change the fuel filter & air filter if they have never been changed before. Also, is the check engine light on? Run a scan code test to see if any sensors are bad. I cant offer too much help without more symptom information. Give me more input?.....

  • usually the torque conveter fails before the trans on the ax4n if you suddenly have a higher then normal fuel use run the codes and p0741 will come up converter t/c open

  • Lately mine stays in first and redlines when driving then shifts.  Also when downshifting it slams first sort of hard sometimes lol. Don't know how much life I have left out of it.

  • on the Duratec, you have to take off the intake manifold to get to the middle back spark plug. But i just took it off to get the 3.Its a whole lot easier and less painful. I had to replace my rack and pinion and that shit was hell. I had a 99 Mercury Sable with the Duratec so i know how you feel.

  • The AX4N is the better of the two. The Pre-1995 AX4S were the ones with trouble. So your set.

  • Thanks! The transmission has been fine after the fluid change. I am actually having trouble with an O2 sensor that causes the car to hesitate when it gets warmer than usual...it stumbles at start and then picks up fine. My friend has a Sable that does the same thing but not with a Duratec...just a plain 3.0....guess Ill change it out soon...Thanks for the input on the trans, I feel better knowing I have the better one! :)

  • nice video, it would've been great if you could show how to take the top off , i need to do that to check for a low compression in cylinder 6...

  • Start by taking off the EGR valve. Unhook all hoses, springs, and connectors by the throttle body and the opposite end of the plenum. Keep good track or draw pictures of where each hose goes. There is one behind the plenum by the firewall which also must be disconnected. Loosen the six plenum retaining bolts and lift the plenum off. You may need to "bump" it with a rubber hammer if its stuck. You WILL need new gaskets, don't re-use the old ones. Change the plugs and wires while your at it.

  • pretty cool. i would have loved to see you actually do some of these things.

  • I have a 07 fordfusion with the 3.0 Duratec it has alot of power but at 20.000 miles there was a loud ticking noise at idle, its still under warranty i took it to ford and they had to replace the camshaft by cylinder 6 it was clasping on the exhaust vavle, they had a revised camm for it now its great, im really hard on the car though. just check out my page and see.

  • Hey thanks for the comment. Your Duratec should last as long as mine. I'm not always "easy" on the Taurus either...what fun would that be? I hammer it on occasion. It would burn the tires off if I let it! LOL....

    Its really running good now since the tune up...should have done it months ago. Your Fusion looks sweet, I like the black on black. Could you post a video of your engine compartment? I'd like to compare it to my Duratec.

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