@MigdalBaval @MigdalBaval@MigdalBaval To get required density range on film, you would need to develop your film longer , or use a high contrast develop such as D-19. Films such as HP5 work better for carbon printing if it is developed in such a developer. With conventional developers, HP5's builds up a bit too much density in the shadows with extended development, preventing required density range (and decent blacks in the print) so high contrast developer is better suited.
Fantastic to actually SEE the whole process start to finish.
I want to start experimenting with this process. Would it work with paper negatives? I shoot 35mm and 120, so huge negatives have to be "produced" somehow.
@yeknom02, @yeknom02 , Thank you for watching, yeknom02! I imagine that paper negs would work but the exposure time would be quite long, I imagine. For my exposure unit (graphic arts plate burner) and HP5 film, my exposure time is 10:00. If possible, you could also enlarge your negs onto an ortho film such as APHS making an interpositive, then contact print that on another sheet of APHS to get a negative. Another option is digital negatives.
Thank you, I don't see any Golden products here,but was able to find Liquitex Acrylic Polymer Mediums or Varnishes and I think I'll give them a try. Anyway, thank you once again for this splendid demonstration of the process, it looks easier as it reads :)
Man this is wonderful. I would love to do this. What kind of expense would one have to invest at a minimum if he or she was kind of handy at building things Like a light box maybe. I just love this. It is amazing! Thanks for taking time to show this incredible process!
I should have indicated in the video that the sensitizer used is a dichromate and should be handled with care. When weighing it out, I wear a respirator as I wouldn't want to breath in the dust. Once it's in solution, I'm not too concerned about it. I do wear gloves but for a few scenes in the video, I do not.
4x5 is fine. It depends on which film you use and the density range to which it is developed to. I use a density range of about 1.90 for carbon. 1.35 for silver. I like working with HP5, but could only get it to a decent density range if develop in D-19, a high contrast developer. Conventional developers built up too much density in the negative's shadows, preventing good blacks in the print.
4x5 is fine. It depends on which film you use and the density range to which it is developed to. I use a density range of about 1.90 for carbon. 1.35 for silver. I like working with HP5, but I could only get it to a decent density range if I develop it in D-19, a high contrast developer. When you extend the developing time in a conventional developer (or even pyro developers), the shadow areas build up too much density, preventing good blacks in the print with HP5.
Great video showing the steps for Carbon Printing. Looks like a very detailed process that produces results with a unique features. How well will this process work work with 4x5 film?
Glad you guys like it. My intention is to get as many people turned onto this process as possible. It is labour intensive, but once you've worked out what works best for you, it's well worth it. Thank you!
Great! Can you write all the ingredients and quantity please!
CarolSanem 2 days ago
Comment removed
MigdalBaval 5 months ago
@MigdalBaval @MigdalBaval @MigdalBaval To get required density range on film, you would need to develop your film longer , or use a high contrast develop such as D-19. Films such as HP5 work better for carbon printing if it is developed in such a developer. With conventional developers, HP5's builds up a bit too much density in the shadows with extended development, preventing required density range (and decent blacks in the print) so high contrast developer is better suited.
andy8x10 5 months ago
Fantastic to actually SEE the whole process start to finish.
I want to start experimenting with this process. Would it work with paper negatives? I shoot 35mm and 120, so huge negatives have to be "produced" somehow.
yeknom02 6 months ago
@yeknom02, @yeknom02 , Thank you for watching, yeknom02! I imagine that paper negs would work but the exposure time would be quite long, I imagine. For my exposure unit (graphic arts plate burner) and HP5 film, my exposure time is 10:00. If possible, you could also enlarge your negs onto an ortho film such as APHS making an interpositive, then contact print that on another sheet of APHS to get a negative. Another option is digital negatives.
andy8x10 6 months ago
Thanks a lot, I also thought the matte would be much more suitable. Best wishes
andreios @ LFF
thehobbitable 8 months ago
The Liquitex polymer should be fine. The type I'm using comes either in gloss or matte finish. I prefer the matte finish.
andy8x10 8 months ago
Thank you, I don't see any Golden products here,but was able to find Liquitex Acrylic Polymer Mediums or Varnishes and I think I'll give them a try. Anyway, thank you once again for this splendid demonstration of the process, it looks easier as it reads :)
thehobbitable 8 months ago
I was using Golden GAC 100, but found a cheaper brand at my local art supply shop. It's kind of like gesso.
andy8x10 8 months ago
I was using Golden GAC 100, but found a cheaper brand at my local art supply shop.
andy8x10 8 months ago
May I ask, what is the acrylic polymer you are using for sizing the print support paper? Is it kind of gesso? Or sort of paint colour? Thank you!
thehobbitable 8 months ago
cool! Thanks!
Rockymthome 8 months ago
Man this is wonderful. I would love to do this. What kind of expense would one have to invest at a minimum if he or she was kind of handy at building things Like a light box maybe. I just love this. It is amazing! Thanks for taking time to show this incredible process!
healthpimp 8 months ago
awesome! thanks for sharing this!
vutEwa 8 months ago
I should have indicated in the video that the sensitizer used is a dichromate and should be handled with care. When weighing it out, I wear a respirator as I wouldn't want to breath in the dust. Once it's in solution, I'm not too concerned about it. I do wear gloves but for a few scenes in the video, I do not.
andy8x10 8 months ago
4x5 is fine. It depends on which film you use and the density range to which it is developed to. I use a density range of about 1.90 for carbon. 1.35 for silver. I like working with HP5, but could only get it to a decent density range if develop in D-19, a high contrast developer. Conventional developers built up too much density in the negative's shadows, preventing good blacks in the print.
Which 4x5 film do you use?
andy8x10 8 months ago
4x5 is fine. It depends on which film you use and the density range to which it is developed to. I use a density range of about 1.90 for carbon. 1.35 for silver. I like working with HP5, but I could only get it to a decent density range if I develop it in D-19, a high contrast developer. When you extend the developing time in a conventional developer (or even pyro developers), the shadow areas build up too much density, preventing good blacks in the print with HP5.
Which 4x5 film do you use?
andy8x10 8 months ago
Great video showing the steps for Carbon Printing. Looks like a very detailed process that produces results with a unique features. How well will this process work work with 4x5 film?
RollinCampbell 8 months ago
Glad you guys like it. My intention is to get as many people turned onto this process as possible. It is labour intensive, but once you've worked out what works best for you, it's well worth it. Thank you!
andy8x10 8 months ago
Fab-O!!! What a great video!! Makes me want to go out right now and produce carbon prints. thanks mate. cheers!
samcomet 8 months ago
Fantastic video, great inspiration, thanks for posting it!
oskajan2 8 months ago
Hot dog, that is amazing.
Amazing.
Thanks for sharing!
jawarden175 8 months ago