Added: 1 year ago
From: AronSensei
Views: 42,046
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  • Metolius PAS > Daisy chain

  • Comment removed

  • Finally someone in Japan, any instructors that speak english in the Tokyo area? Been climbing at the B-pump gyms so far, looking to get into rope climbing.

  • Thanks for the video. But thats tooo much for a 5.7 haha

  • @lizhenrocks It is a bit much for 5.7, but everyone is different. I did an easy route for the video. I have pushed it up to 5.12b so far, hoping to push into 5.13 this summer in Thailand! oh yeah!!!

  • Thanks for the video! I'm sure you've heard this before, but daisy chains aren't really designed as personal anchors.

  • @AndrewFreschetta Yes, you are absolutely right. Old habits die hard... Maybe I should check out one of those personal anchor systems from Metolius.

  • @AronSensei It's pretty common practice still - I read a trip report of Alex Honnold's recent gear solo of half dome / el cap in a day, and he mentioned he didn't realize till afterwards that using a daisy chain as his belay wasn't a good idea!

  • @AronSensei Even better: Take a 6mm rope and tie a prussik on itself. It is easily adjustable and a dynamic, both great advantages over the Metolius PAS. I used to have one but gave it away after I discovered this solution!

  • @AndrewFreschetta Daisy's usually are rated for 12+ Kn which is plenty for a personal anchor. But when belaying multi and there is a risk of falling on it, not really the best

  • blends in with the rock...

  • Thanks for your videos!

    Not the last time i am watching them I guess.

  • i just wish cams were not so expensive.......

  • the 5 vids make it.... i've been exlplaining self belay lead climbing for a decade now and words just couldn't 'say' what you 'showed'

  • @13inchFoot Thanks for the comment, glad to help!

  • Hey Aron, thanks for posting these. If you want to fix that pesky aspect ratio issue you've got there insert this: yt:stretch=16:9 into your 'tags'. that should fix it.

  • Nice vid bro...been curious how to solo.

    I'll check your other ones out too

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