I have a 86 735i vert, everything is good until I reach about 3800 rpm's then the engine has a power loss and fire. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator, the full throttle switch the mass air flow sensor crankshaft sensor ,coil spark plug,coil wire,distiboters, no luck so far, any ideas on what I should do next....rep me please thxxx
@Aussie50 I live in Lithuania, have got e34 535 and could say its insanely cheap to maintain old BMW in Europe. New parts arent very cheap but second hand ones are close to nothing! whole M30B35 engine (like in vid) you can get for like 300$.. Other parts I recently bought: all tail lights - 5$, hood - 20$, doors - 15$, gearbox - 50$, limited slip dif - 130$... some parts are close to metal prices in scrap yard!
in many cars the maf also controls the fuel pump relay, they can shut it off when the door completely closes, even during cranking the door pops open a bit and turns it on
bad luck on the coolant leak, if its running good you might as well replace the head, hopefully they dont all corrode through like that, i would patch it with some jbweld for a temp fix if it were mine but theres no telling what the inside of the cooling passages in the head look like
i had typed this out before reading it had 300k on it, if you can find a new lower mile(km) engine/trans for a few hundred bucks that is in reasonably good shape i would just do that
Cool! I didn't know about the fuel pump control, though I imagine the pump would run before cranking to build pressure in the injector rails?
I could screw a new plug in and epoxy the whole lot up and drive it just fine, but the plug would never be replaceable after, and the inside of the head would be pretty horrific considering there is nearly a 1/2" hole!
yeah, usually they will kick the fuel pump on for a second or two when you turn the ignition to run, and run it in the start position, its just some add it on top of that so if you crank it in start and the maf isnt opened the fuel pump wont come on, i know the mid 90s mazdas and some toyotas were like that
on the hole i wouldnt be suprised if the cooling passages in the adjacent cylinders were dangerously close to blowing out too if they are designed similarly
New engine is cheapest, well, good low mile engine anyway. the current one has nearly 300,000km on it.
BMW are exceptional cars compared with cheap shit like Ford and Jap cars. and even if it is a Ferarri, the same thing will happen if the car isn't taken care of 100%.
the engine has been lightly cooked (not my fault)
using modern engine coolant which is too strong (was recommended by retailer)
and numerous otehr things that happened in the 230,000km before I got the car and don't know about
your not wrong! soon as I saw the dried coolant residue I thought it was a hairline crack that could be fixed with a bit of coolant additive, but the metal was so thin corrosion ate the whole area!!
Ouch, do those have aluminum heads?
More350Power 2 months ago
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I have a 86 735i vert, everything is good until I reach about 3800 rpm's then the engine has a power loss and fire. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator, the full throttle switch the mass air flow sensor crankshaft sensor ,coil spark plug,coil wire,distiboters, no luck so far, any ideas on what I should do next....rep me please thxxx
MrSate11ite 1 year ago
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MrSate11ite 1 year ago
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MrSate11ite 1 year ago
why is there oil residue on the oxygen sensor?
Shouldn't it be dry if it's on the exhaust manifold?
I've never seen a plate to cover the distributor cap before!
readyset 2 years ago
The oxy sensor on this one is fitted to the cat converter down past the transmission.
when I got the car the sump gasket was leaky and never sealed up 100% so everything has a fine coat of oil on it now.
Aussie50 2 years ago
Did you guys get a new header for the engine?
BMW are pretty tough you'll see alot of them here from the late 80s still on the roads here in the states, but the parts are killer expensive.
readyset 2 years ago
nah the headers are stock as far as I know, but then, I bought it with 230k on the clock so I don't really know fir sure.
some cars have two sensors, one on the cat one on the exh manifold. but I couldn't see one on the exh manifold.
I'll find out when I take the engine out.
either way I only paid $230 for all the stuff you see at the beginning of the vid. maybe anotehr $150 for dissy cap and rotor later.
Aussie50 2 years ago
@Aussie50 I live in Lithuania, have got e34 535 and could say its insanely cheap to maintain old BMW in Europe. New parts arent very cheap but second hand ones are close to nothing! whole M30B35 engine (like in vid) you can get for like 300$.. Other parts I recently bought: all tail lights - 5$, hood - 20$, doors - 15$, gearbox - 50$, limited slip dif - 130$... some parts are close to metal prices in scrap yard!
SpunkyRabbit 1 year ago
@Aussie50 - First, you are running green coolant in it. Green coolant is the worst. Eats seals and hoses. Keep the BMWs latest Blue Coolant.
IPGAuto 1 year ago
@IPGAuto Nulon green is the best for modern engines, I've never seen or used Blue stuff.
what ate the head was wrong coolant, Techtalloy crap.
Aussie50 1 year ago
same here lad
jackf1231 1 year ago
impressive one hand camera work :)
WorldStove 2 years ago
in many cars the maf also controls the fuel pump relay, they can shut it off when the door completely closes, even during cranking the door pops open a bit and turns it on
bad luck on the coolant leak, if its running good you might as well replace the head, hopefully they dont all corrode through like that, i would patch it with some jbweld for a temp fix if it were mine but theres no telling what the inside of the cooling passages in the head look like
Kingratass 2 years ago
i had typed this out before reading it had 300k on it, if you can find a new lower mile(km) engine/trans for a few hundred bucks that is in reasonably good shape i would just do that
Kingratass 2 years ago
Cool! I didn't know about the fuel pump control, though I imagine the pump would run before cranking to build pressure in the injector rails?
I could screw a new plug in and epoxy the whole lot up and drive it just fine, but the plug would never be replaceable after, and the inside of the head would be pretty horrific considering there is nearly a 1/2" hole!
Aussie50 2 years ago
yeah, usually they will kick the fuel pump on for a second or two when you turn the ignition to run, and run it in the start position, its just some add it on top of that so if you crank it in start and the maf isnt opened the fuel pump wont come on, i know the mid 90s mazdas and some toyotas were like that
on the hole i wouldnt be suprised if the cooling passages in the adjacent cylinders were dangerously close to blowing out too if they are designed similarly
Kingratass 2 years ago
I wonder what will be cheapest, some head, new engine or just a new car.
I thought BMW were quality cars since their german, this almost tell the opposite.
diymania 2 years ago
New engine is cheapest, well, good low mile engine anyway. the current one has nearly 300,000km on it.
BMW are exceptional cars compared with cheap shit like Ford and Jap cars. and even if it is a Ferarri, the same thing will happen if the car isn't taken care of 100%.
the engine has been lightly cooked (not my fault)
using modern engine coolant which is too strong (was recommended by retailer)
and numerous otehr things that happened in the 230,000km before I got the car and don't know about
Aussie50 2 years ago
Damn! that sucks about the hole in the head.
mattyvt93 2 years ago
yeah, its not good :(
don't use Techalloy pre-mix coolant in older engines :(
Aussie50 2 years ago
Fair enough, my neighbor next door had the same problem with his 98' Subaru Liberty.
Even tho he got water into the cyl all he needed was a new head.
But i hope it all works out for ya Ed! ;)
mattyvt93 2 years ago
man that sucks
m3sca1 2 years ago
man that sucked. you got a good shot of the hole. its nasty.
V8Jagnut 2 years ago
worst i ever seen before ive worked with my dad in car shop and i never seen this bad lol
30GB 2 years ago
your not wrong! soon as I saw the dried coolant residue I thought it was a hairline crack that could be fixed with a bit of coolant additive, but the metal was so thin corrosion ate the whole area!!
Aussie50 2 years ago