Added: 3 years ago
From: shazmegali
Views: 44,222
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (76)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • what bottom bracket are you using?

  • dude, trash the bike, but tell me where you dump it so i can go pick it up.

  • just not good enough

  • poor installation

  • i riding 2years with cervelo r3sl with sram red en i had no problems,i riding with a shimano cassette & kmc chain

  • MUST SEE !

    keyword ''CERVELO TOMAHAWK SPRINT TEST''

  • I want popcorn for some reason.

  • Torque the cassette to 40nm. I fixed the exact same problem yesterday by removing the cassette and installing again. hope this helps...

  • Now I cant get that noise out of my head

  • We build and service a million cervelo R3's with Sram Red. There is NO reason why if that bike is properly assembled and maintained that there is such a noise.

  • 1400 dollars group?

  • eekk!! what horrible noise :( lol

  • the problem is everything! a shit bike a shittier groupset and wheels that are over priced!

  • OUCH! Man the cackling, grinding sound is enough to give any cyclist a heartbreak - expensive quality gear that sounds like it's going to break apart!

  • is that a sram red cassette???

  • @ericrd1989 Sounds like a POS. I had a similar issue w/ my bike. Canadian craftsmanship.

  • Canadian craftsmanship? This Cervelos has none of this so called Canadian craftsmanship. Sram comes from USA and the frames come from China.

  • @opmdevil Oh, my bad. Canadian design.

    PS: SRAM is not made overseas?

  • Not only that, it's the lightest of both groupsets.

  • @dahgutone there are 3

  • DUDE I just watched it again I can tell you without a doubt GREASE THE MAIN REAR OUTER AXEL. Do us all a favor for gods sake.

  • Just to add to my earlier comment to prove the theory take the zipp wheel out and put it in another bike and you will find the same noise will happen. This is how I found the noise in mine as I use my zipps on several bikes.

  • You will notice there are 2 issues here I run dura ace and zipp wheels and if you want to fix this problem for good you have to service the rear hub, take it apart and grease the outside of the main axle, clean and lightly oil the main ratchet then lightly grease the dust covers and skewer when you re install I also very lightly grease the aluminum piece that holds on the cassette. The zipp hub is designed to be serviced so I recommend cleaning and re greasing the rear hub every 5000 ks

  • well i could be wrong but watching the cassette in the rear, and because i just had this issue with the same noise, i would say that your cassette was installed improperly. just a little bit off and when ever i put pressure on a climb it would actually switch back and forth, but if its barely off it will rub like that.

  • Hi there, what make/type turbo trainer are you using in this video? Thanks

  • The Red group is nice when properly installed. I've seen issues with the chainrings on the 08 cranksets flexing, but this was corrected for 09. I find that the shifting is more solid than other shimano components used. Definitely a value, IMO, compared to the Sram, I mean ,DA 7900

  • Had a similar problem too... turned out my local BS mechanic had left the shimano spacer (the one that fits in the recess at the rear of the cassette) on the freehub when he installed the SRAM cassette (Numpty!!). Haven't had a problem with the Sram cassette working loose since it was removed.

  • in the UK, campy and shimano are cheaper than sram. it is shimano that is poor value for money - it has no ceramic bearings and is heavier than campy

  • "sram hasnt perfected their road components yet....." so why do they charge £1700 for the red groupset?

  • Cassette is loose. Tighten it, and it may do the job.

  • Spot on answer. Few commnets: Its on a turbo so I could get some video of it. When you're out on the road its a bit tricky to film. I do about 200miles a week and race a bit so I reverted back to my old bike whilst I tried to get t sorted. The manual gives you a nM torque to tighten to - but if you only do it this tight after one decent length ride of 60+ miles it starts making the noise. Answer is to 'over tighten' by around 5nM. That way it stays solid for about 200 miles. Prob sorted

  • these guys obviously dont have any mechanical ability, and the one with the camera is a eunuch

    can i ask what the point of riding a turbo trainer is? if i wanted to ride a bike indoors id go to my local gym where id at least be entertained by the odd glimpse at a beautiful womans tits and ass, but then i am a pervert

  • If you're a hard cycling racer, you want to get a trainer. It's obviously alot cheaper than the machines at the gym.

  • You can always watch porn at home. Plus rollers are a lot more fun then an exercise bike.

  • these guys obviously dont have any mechanical ability.

    can i ask what the point a turbo trainer is? if i wanted to ride a bike indoors I`d go to my local gym where I`d at least be entertained by the odd glimpse at a beautiful womans tits and ass, but then again I am a pervert

  • just buy campy, problem solved.......

  • You don't have a clean view of the rear duraileur. You gotta see it up closer

  • Such a waste of a nice gruppo.:((

  • guys...come on..it's not because of the frameset and the groupset...

    u need to know that once u mount your bike on the trainer the thing will compressed your bike especially at the RD area..so it will affect the shifting..u cant even tune it to perfect while the bike still on it..that actually the reason it keep jumping and scratching..got what i mean?

  • continue padelling along with such horrible scratch...i salute u!!!

  • I'm guessing you've sorted it, but for what it's worth I had a very similar problem with a scott addict and a brand new ultegra groupO. Turned out that the bike shop staff failed to fit the spacer designed to position the 10sp cassette on a 9sp freehub??

  • it's sad to see a nice reputable gruppo being tortured like this... sigh. that's why never send a monkey to do a man's job.

  • you are a moronnnnnnnnnnn

  • ur back deralur is hitting the rear cog

  • I agree with JimexJimex... Obviously you have a problem, take it off, and put in on a stand before you ruin your equipment. I ride a Cervelo Soloist Carbon with SRAM Red, and it is not the fault of either company... you just need to fine tune your stuff

  • Dude! Put it on a STAND for repair examinations!!!

    If you know that there is an existing problem, why worsen it by putting another 170lb load on the system?

  • aww sram red is really nice

  • Thanks - think you are right in that the cassette fix seems to have cured it. Still, bit p1ssed that sram have never come back to me...

    As for saddle height - I get knee problems if I go any higher - odd but true.

  • @shazmegali I agree, that is hardly acceptable for such a groupset.

    Have you heard nothing at all from SRAM?

  • its from the cassette being to loose. The cassette itself is hollow and echos loudly even when you move your fingers through it. Just tighten the cassette and it should go away; assuming the derail's are adjusted properly.

  • No it isn't

  • Actually it is! I tried a new, non Red cassette and it worked fine, then went back to the red cassette and it eventually worked itself loose after another 300 miles or so over a couple of weeks. When I re-tightede it it stopped. So now I tighted it every week and its been fine.

    Not sure this acceptable on a gruppo that is a (for me) once in a lifetime purchase. Better off sticking with shimano or campag...

  • Ignore my vulgar friends below, thats BB and By, they'd like, along with myself to invite you to become an honourary member of "VeloRiders". Its a super friendly site where no matter what youre into either Tony(Tellitlikeitisimo) or Nettie will see to your every need, they also cater for three sums, multiplying in algebraic rhythmicity. Lovely bike by the way.

  • Sorry babe....noooooooooooo

  • Ask them on the "Weight Weenies" forum.

  • You have too much money and not enough brain.

    Get your credit card out and get a new one it's fooked.

  • FFS - You really shouldn't be allowed to have that bike!

  • Get a new bike, that is junk. :)

    If you can't work it out how can I do it from a tiny YT video.

  • Probably the front mech (derailleur) isn't adjusted to the correct height to the large chainring.

  • Is that coming from the crankset?

  • OMFG!!!! Stop doing it U wanna kill rear deraileur for 180-230 euro!!

  • 1) the most obvious thing that it could be would be the front deraileur alignment.

    2) rear deraileur could be rubbing against cassette.

    that's all i can think of.

  • First the cassette is not form the group, so it have to sound, second could be that the Rear del is not on the correct place.,

  • stop it!!! you going to f.... it up

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more