@tabaleao : Refer to the video on "Bambi" on my web site OR in Low Stress Handling, Restraint and behavior Mod of dogs and cats textbook and DVd there are many examples on video.
I hear you say "negative reinforcement", or R-, an OC term meaning to increase likelihood of a behavior by removing something, inferring it was something unpleasant. I think you're trying to lessen the dog's reactivity and aggression, which means punishment. Are you removing the reward of an unrestricted walk (P-), or pulling on the GL to force him to turn toward you or else suffer pain (P+) due to the collar? Why use the R- term? Bad association of term "punishment" and that positive=good?
@PaulAndMuttley: I'm using GL to guide his head up so that he will look at me. goal behavior is that he looks at me. Then once he looks at me I remove the GL guidance (thus -R) and follow with food reward (+R) for attention.
Would the training protocol be the same if my dog reacts the same on-leash but does not run away from dogs when on-leash? I don't know what type of aggression she has, but she has attacked another dog and bit and shook it badly. (and hasn't had that opportunity since). She does bark and lunge like Podee did on leash. She's also a picky eater who doesn't seem to like kibble. How do I get her from the first shots of Podee in the emergency situation to the second round?
@Beckcycle : Your dog first most likely needs to go through the learn to earnprogram first to learn to look to you for guidance (and for you to learn to provide clear guidance). you can find this program photoillustrated with a ton of photos in Perfect Puppy in 7 days which is available on amazon.com
you have no idea about dogs! you may know something about conditionig, but as far as dog behavior, you don't know what you are doing. btw, i am sure you wont allow this comment to be posted
@ivernave : To see my credentials as a veterinarian and applied animal behaviorist lecturing all over the world, go to my web site at drsophiayin. Or just believe whatever makes you feel good.
It is clear that Podee is way overthreshold from 38 seconds onward. I am curious why you didn't remove him for the situation to a point where he was back under threshold, then work your way back toward the dog as you do later? Have you heard about the use of operant conditioning (letting the dog choose his behavior ) that is recently been used in reactive dogs? Behavioral Adjustment Training (Bat) is what it is called. Grisha Ahimsa in Seattle is spearheading it.
As you can see from the 3rd session, I don't need to use BAT to get him under control and happy although I could if I wanted. It would just take longer.
you are right that the dog is over threshold but not at 38 seconds, right away. in order to show people the difference in how a dog should look when he's ready vs not ready to be in a situation, you must show them both and provide enough explanation. But people do need to listen to the explanation of what's happening.
This video is a gem and perfect example of effective counter-conditioning. It deserves a lot more views. Hope to see more videos from you in the future. -Tab.
The head halter can be bad for the neck if the handler no skill. e.g. if they just stand around and leg the dog rush to the end and pull it's head around and also don't train the dog that leash is loose unless the dog gets ahead of them. It's important to really control the leash/ head so that you're guiding and not yanking when using this technique. This technique is much more difficult than it looks. I tell owners they should be the distance where they can control the dog pretty easily.
You're correct that if you LET the dog get out of control you're in trouble. Which is why I'm careful to set up situations where I don't let the dog get out of control. It's smart to be prepared instead of having to be reactive.To see a video of what leadership is go to drsophiayin home page.
@shellylanette : That's because you have to shape the behavior rather than put them in that situation first thing and expect it to work. you can see a video that explains what shaping is on the superbark youtube channel.
My dog, (a 1 year old Australian shepherd), has had some bad experiences at the vet recently. He injured his paw and the vet was rather rough in their handling with him, since they don't have time to take it slow. Now my dog's become more and more obsessive around his injured paw. He's actually begun to try and bite us when we aproach to change his bandage and so on. Can this be counter conditioned and how to do it? He's always been easy to handle before this happened, and relaxed about it... =(
@Silivr1 : Best resource on specifics for what you need is my textbook and DVD Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs and Cats. It has 106 DVds and teaches step by step. It's now used by many veterinarians and being adopted in technician programs. you can see the lower cost online version at lowstresshandling
well, without really seeing her and taking a regular behavioral history, I can't really give say anything specific to her. But the dogs that I have seen that are actually emaciated have been sick (only seen 2). I'd wait for the online learning. Rate is $25.00/month and once the MannersMinder stuff is up you will have access to all of that and to the puppy learn to earn course which will be go up within a month therafter probably. That will have a lot of the outdoor exercises.
Thank you. You've been very helpful in answering my questions! The vet thought she was pretty thin just because she ran too much. She's not actually emancipated but if my mother feeds her anything human food related, she does become quite thin to starve herself.
By the way, if you're ever coming to Canada (specifically Vancouver) please let me know! I'll try and contact Dr. Gary Landsburg and Dr. Diane Frank. Thanks for all your help.
May I ask a question? What do I do if my dog is a picky eater and by giving her high value treats, even a few, she starts to skip meals wanting something better and ends up starving for days? She's a 6 lbs Papillon by the way. I would like to try this but I'm afraid she will become picky again with the amount of treats given?
Wow this video is excellent! My dog reacts by barking at any new dogs whenever she sees one because she becomes very excited and a little nervous.
For learn to earn program which they need to do inside first they learn to work for every piece of their kibble. So then you get them to work for their kibble even outside (since this is the only way they get fed--they learn to value the kibble more). Then in the really difficult situation I use treats. If that means they won't eat the next day that's ok because they won't starve themselves. But likely they will because they will come to enjoy interaction of food with training.
Thank you for the reply but the thing is, my dog really does starve herself. Even if she is fed ONE piece of human food during the day, she will eat only a few bites a day for a week to wait out for better food even when we don't give any. She will literally lose pounds because sometimes she goes 48 hrs without eating.
Also, she only eats when she's starving and whenever I offer her kibble, she won't eat it. She'd rather starve, that's how picky she is.
First, I would have your veterinarian evaluate her body condition score when she's "starved." Most likely when she's lost that extra pound, she would be considered athletic condition (4.5/9 score) and she's normally a 5/9 body score (which is ok but not atheletic condition). Many people tell me their dogs aren't food motivated but every time I take one of these in I find that when they work for food they become more motivated to eat regularly.
I also find that they were either getting much more than they needed before (based on a better body condition score) or really they don't need to eat as much as the owner thinks. You always have the option to only have her work for kibble or to train her to really love working for toys. part of having them work for kibble is knowing how to deliver it correctly and when the "lack of motivation" could be fixed by slight variation in delivery.
These are things I will address in more detail on my online education center of my web page eventually once I get the many specific exercises up. The MannersMinder DVD shows the indoor learn to earn exercises and goes over body condition scoring and food motivation. A version of the learn to earn exercises are on the dog articles page of my web site under "Lucy." Your papillon may never have the appetite of a "lab" but you can get her more consistently motivated. You can use petting too.
She only eats between 1/3 to 1/4 cup food a day, she's 6 lbs.
The vet says she should be eating at least 1/3 cup minimum and better if it's 1/2 cup of food a day because she runs for 1-2 hrs a day.
I would like to buy one of your books/DVDs. Which one would you recommend? Her main behavioral problem is barking at other dogs and lunging (not sure with excitement or nervousness). Most likely a mixture of both.
Thank you. Actually her normal body condition is already very very thin (according to the vet) and when she loses that extra pound, the vet said she was quite underweight. Her ribs, hips, spine all protrude but he did all the tests (stool sample, blood analysis, urinalysis, x-ray) and can't find a thing wrong with her. She's wormed regularly.
I'm located in Canada and I don't think our vet used a body score.
There are also veterinary behaviorists in Canada. Dr. Gary Landsburg in Toronto. Dr. Diane Frank. They might be able to guide you to someone closer to your part of Canada.
Thanks again for your help! I've been trying the technique in the last few days and my dog really likes her food a lot more outside! She even started to eat more during the day as well! She's now eating at least 1/2 cup a day.
One last question, if I find it very hard to get her attention even with walking/sitting/heel/come/etc. should I try a gentle leader head collar? Giving her a small correction with her regular collar makes her shut down, avoid eye contact, refuse food(only tried twice
So currently I've basically been snapping, saying 'hey!' or even calling her name to get her attention on me. Is there a better way to get/hold her attention?
On my askdryin web site I have videos on the learn to earn exercises that I do and will have more detailed videos up in maybe a month. Watch the ones on say please by sitting or rewarding calm behavior. It's often hard to get good attention outside without doing learn to earn inside first (with difficult dogs). Do consider training a "watch me." I have instructions for that in How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves.
I'm sorry that I keep bothering you. Um...today I noticed maybe my dog is actually barking from excitement instead of fear because we were with a few dogs that she knows and she never barks at. But when they were walking away and they got pretty far, she started to bark at them too. Same with barking at my mother on a walk if she gets waaay too far. Is it possible that she's barking from excitement instead of fear?
Her normal behavior for seeing another dog is bark bark bark bark, charge charge(tail wagging like crazy). When she gets to the dog however, her tail and butt is wagging furiously and she sniffs and licks them, never any growling or biting. Is she fearful? And does counter conditioning work for both situations? I've started to try the at home videos, thank you.
Also, when I ignored her and waited for her to calm down, sit and look at me, she started to whine. I'm so confused with her behavior. We were doing good a few days ago today I guess there are too many dogs that she knows and she was too excited but she wouldn't even eat food or look at me even when I walked her away. She only started to look at me and eat when all the dogs were out of sight.
See comment below. I'd work on Learn to earn exercises first indoors then out. Then after that add the gentle leader head collar or snootloop. You'll need to train her to like it by giving her treats through it. I'll have video up under online learning in maybe several weeks. Also with GL you want to guide gentle so that you can reward good behavior vs using it as a correction (just a heads up on GL use).
Thank you for posting this very simple but very encouraging video. It's caused me to tear up a bit because this is my summer project: to fix my fear-based dog aggressive dog. We've purchased our gentle leader, muzzle, and I'm off for the "treat bag" today. Thank you.
this dog is not agressive to people. i want to see your tactic with a dog agressive to people - including the one with the leash.
tabaleao 5 months ago
@tabaleao : Refer to the video on "Bambi" on my web site OR in Low Stress Handling, Restraint and behavior Mod of dogs and cats textbook and DVd there are many examples on video.
SuperBark1 4 months ago
I hear you say "negative reinforcement", or R-, an OC term meaning to increase likelihood of a behavior by removing something, inferring it was something unpleasant. I think you're trying to lessen the dog's reactivity and aggression, which means punishment. Are you removing the reward of an unrestricted walk (P-), or pulling on the GL to force him to turn toward you or else suffer pain (P+) due to the collar? Why use the R- term? Bad association of term "punishment" and that positive=good?
PaulAndMuttley 7 months ago
@PaulAndMuttley: I'm using GL to guide his head up so that he will look at me. goal behavior is that he looks at me. Then once he looks at me I remove the GL guidance (thus -R) and follow with food reward (+R) for attention.
SuperBark1 4 months ago
Would the training protocol be the same if my dog reacts the same on-leash but does not run away from dogs when on-leash? I don't know what type of aggression she has, but she has attacked another dog and bit and shook it badly. (and hasn't had that opportunity since). She does bark and lunge like Podee did on leash. She's also a picky eater who doesn't seem to like kibble. How do I get her from the first shots of Podee in the emergency situation to the second round?
Beckcycle 8 months ago
@Beckcycle : Your dog first most likely needs to go through the learn to earnprogram first to learn to look to you for guidance (and for you to learn to provide clear guidance). you can find this program photoillustrated with a ton of photos in Perfect Puppy in 7 days which is available on amazon.com
SuperBark1 4 months ago
you have no idea about dogs! you may know something about conditionig, but as far as dog behavior, you don't know what you are doing. btw, i am sure you wont allow this comment to be posted
ivernave 8 months ago
@ivernave : To see my credentials as a veterinarian and applied animal behaviorist lecturing all over the world, go to my web site at drsophiayin. Or just believe whatever makes you feel good.
SuperBark1 4 months ago
It is clear that Podee is way overthreshold from 38 seconds onward. I am curious why you didn't remove him for the situation to a point where he was back under threshold, then work your way back toward the dog as you do later? Have you heard about the use of operant conditioning (letting the dog choose his behavior ) that is recently been used in reactive dogs? Behavioral Adjustment Training (Bat) is what it is called. Grisha Ahimsa in Seattle is spearheading it.
supernaturalbc2009 11 months ago
As you can see from the 3rd session, I don't need to use BAT to get him under control and happy although I could if I wanted. It would just take longer.
you are right that the dog is over threshold but not at 38 seconds, right away. in order to show people the difference in how a dog should look when he's ready vs not ready to be in a situation, you must show them both and provide enough explanation. But people do need to listen to the explanation of what's happening.
SuperBark1 8 months ago
This dog is not aggressive
reactancio 11 months ago
Re: The statement that this dog is not aggression. This dog actually got loose once and bit another dog, sending the dog to the hospital.
SuperBark1 8 months ago
@SuperBark1 That it has bitten does not mean that he is aggressive. With this method one is not able to eliminate aggressiveness.
reactancio 8 months ago
It nice to see a tutorial vid which is using untrained dog to its issue.
strangerxxx 1 year ago
This video is a gem and perfect example of effective counter-conditioning. It deserves a lot more views. Hope to see more videos from you in the future. -Tab.
tab289 1 year ago
well but isn't the head leash also bad for the neck? i watched this after watching "Shadow turns blue. Anyway, nice videos. I enjoy watching them.
withthewolves 1 year ago
The head halter can be bad for the neck if the handler no skill. e.g. if they just stand around and leg the dog rush to the end and pull it's head around and also don't train the dog that leash is loose unless the dog gets ahead of them. It's important to really control the leash/ head so that you're guiding and not yanking when using this technique. This technique is much more difficult than it looks. I tell owners they should be the distance where they can control the dog pretty easily.
SuperBark1 8 months ago
this shit wouldnt work with a real out of control pitbull or rottie what happens if you have no treats bull shit positive crap you gota be the leader
badabingrockford 2 years ago
You're correct that if you LET the dog get out of control you're in trouble. Which is why I'm careful to set up situations where I don't let the dog get out of control. It's smart to be prepared instead of having to be reactive.To see a video of what leadership is go to drsophiayin home page.
SuperBark1 8 months ago
@badabingrockford Funny, because my American Pit Bull Terrier is severely Dog aggressive, wants to kill them. Yet this has helped her tremendously.
magicalcrazyness 6 months ago
@badabingrockford Yeah, some dogs will not even care about the treat, even if you put it directly ON it's nose!
shellylanette 6 months ago
@shellylanette : That's because you have to shape the behavior rather than put them in that situation first thing and expect it to work. you can see a video that explains what shaping is on the superbark youtube channel.
SuperBark1 4 months ago
My dog, (a 1 year old Australian shepherd), has had some bad experiences at the vet recently. He injured his paw and the vet was rather rough in their handling with him, since they don't have time to take it slow. Now my dog's become more and more obsessive around his injured paw. He's actually begun to try and bite us when we aproach to change his bandage and so on. Can this be counter conditioned and how to do it? He's always been easy to handle before this happened, and relaxed about it... =(
Silivr1 2 years ago
@Silivr1 : Best resource on specifics for what you need is my textbook and DVD Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs and Cats. It has 106 DVds and teaches step by step. It's now used by many veterinarians and being adopted in technician programs. you can see the lower cost online version at lowstresshandling
SuperBark1 4 months ago
I very much enjoy your videos. I have been looking for a hands-free leash system for a while but can not find any in my local stores.
What kind do you use and do you have a website where I can find them?
Thank you
cjkize 2 years ago
It's the buddy system at buddysys
SuperBark1 8 months ago
well, without really seeing her and taking a regular behavioral history, I can't really give say anything specific to her. But the dogs that I have seen that are actually emaciated have been sick (only seen 2). I'd wait for the online learning. Rate is $25.00/month and once the MannersMinder stuff is up you will have access to all of that and to the puppy learn to earn course which will be go up within a month therafter probably. That will have a lot of the outdoor exercises.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
Thank you. You've been very helpful in answering my questions! The vet thought she was pretty thin just because she ran too much. She's not actually emancipated but if my mother feeds her anything human food related, she does become quite thin to starve herself.
By the way, if you're ever coming to Canada (specifically Vancouver) please let me know! I'll try and contact Dr. Gary Landsburg and Dr. Diane Frank. Thanks for all your help.
Boboua 2 years ago
May I ask a question? What do I do if my dog is a picky eater and by giving her high value treats, even a few, she starts to skip meals wanting something better and ends up starving for days? She's a 6 lbs Papillon by the way. I would like to try this but I'm afraid she will become picky again with the amount of treats given?
Wow this video is excellent! My dog reacts by barking at any new dogs whenever she sees one because she becomes very excited and a little nervous.
Boboua 2 years ago
For learn to earn program which they need to do inside first they learn to work for every piece of their kibble. So then you get them to work for their kibble even outside (since this is the only way they get fed--they learn to value the kibble more). Then in the really difficult situation I use treats. If that means they won't eat the next day that's ok because they won't starve themselves. But likely they will because they will come to enjoy interaction of food with training.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
Thank you for the reply but the thing is, my dog really does starve herself. Even if she is fed ONE piece of human food during the day, she will eat only a few bites a day for a week to wait out for better food even when we don't give any. She will literally lose pounds because sometimes she goes 48 hrs without eating.
Also, she only eats when she's starving and whenever I offer her kibble, she won't eat it. She'd rather starve, that's how picky she is.
Boboua 2 years ago
First, I would have your veterinarian evaluate her body condition score when she's "starved." Most likely when she's lost that extra pound, she would be considered athletic condition (4.5/9 score) and she's normally a 5/9 body score (which is ok but not atheletic condition). Many people tell me their dogs aren't food motivated but every time I take one of these in I find that when they work for food they become more motivated to eat regularly.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
I also find that they were either getting much more than they needed before (based on a better body condition score) or really they don't need to eat as much as the owner thinks. You always have the option to only have her work for kibble or to train her to really love working for toys. part of having them work for kibble is knowing how to deliver it correctly and when the "lack of motivation" could be fixed by slight variation in delivery.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
These are things I will address in more detail on my online education center of my web page eventually once I get the many specific exercises up. The MannersMinder DVD shows the indoor learn to earn exercises and goes over body condition scoring and food motivation. A version of the learn to earn exercises are on the dog articles page of my web site under "Lucy." Your papillon may never have the appetite of a "lab" but you can get her more consistently motivated. You can use petting too.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
She only eats between 1/3 to 1/4 cup food a day, she's 6 lbs.
The vet says she should be eating at least 1/3 cup minimum and better if it's 1/2 cup of food a day because she runs for 1-2 hrs a day.
I would like to buy one of your books/DVDs. Which one would you recommend? Her main behavioral problem is barking at other dogs and lunging (not sure with excitement or nervousness). Most likely a mixture of both.
Boboua 2 years ago
Thank you. Actually her normal body condition is already very very thin (according to the vet) and when she loses that extra pound, the vet said she was quite underweight. Her ribs, hips, spine all protrude but he did all the tests (stool sample, blood analysis, urinalysis, x-ray) and can't find a thing wrong with her. She's wormed regularly.
I'm located in Canada and I don't think our vet used a body score.
Boboua 2 years ago
There are also veterinary behaviorists in Canada. Dr. Gary Landsburg in Toronto. Dr. Diane Frank. They might be able to guide you to someone closer to your part of Canada.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
Thanks again for your help! I've been trying the technique in the last few days and my dog really likes her food a lot more outside! She even started to eat more during the day as well! She's now eating at least 1/2 cup a day.
One last question, if I find it very hard to get her attention even with walking/sitting/heel/come/etc. should I try a gentle leader head collar? Giving her a small correction with her regular collar makes her shut down, avoid eye contact, refuse food(only tried twice
Boboua 2 years ago
So currently I've basically been snapping, saying 'hey!' or even calling her name to get her attention on me. Is there a better way to get/hold her attention?
Boboua 2 years ago
On my askdryin web site I have videos on the learn to earn exercises that I do and will have more detailed videos up in maybe a month. Watch the ones on say please by sitting or rewarding calm behavior. It's often hard to get good attention outside without doing learn to earn inside first (with difficult dogs). Do consider training a "watch me." I have instructions for that in How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
I'm sorry that I keep bothering you. Um...today I noticed maybe my dog is actually barking from excitement instead of fear because we were with a few dogs that she knows and she never barks at. But when they were walking away and they got pretty far, she started to bark at them too. Same with barking at my mother on a walk if she gets waaay too far. Is it possible that she's barking from excitement instead of fear?
Boboua 2 years ago
Her normal behavior for seeing another dog is bark bark bark bark, charge charge(tail wagging like crazy). When she gets to the dog however, her tail and butt is wagging furiously and she sniffs and licks them, never any growling or biting. Is she fearful? And does counter conditioning work for both situations? I've started to try the at home videos, thank you.
Boboua 2 years ago
Also, when I ignored her and waited for her to calm down, sit and look at me, she started to whine. I'm so confused with her behavior. We were doing good a few days ago today I guess there are too many dogs that she knows and she was too excited but she wouldn't even eat food or look at me even when I walked her away. She only started to look at me and eat when all the dogs were out of sight.
Boboua 2 years ago
See comment below. I'd work on Learn to earn exercises first indoors then out. Then after that add the gentle leader head collar or snootloop. You'll need to train her to like it by giving her treats through it. I'll have video up under online learning in maybe several weeks. Also with GL you want to guide gentle so that you can reward good behavior vs using it as a correction (just a heads up on GL use).
SuperBark1 2 years ago
this is such a great video
happyddesigns 2 years ago
I'm not using the shock,only the vibration to get her mind of the other dog and focus on me and snacks
gameiohfreak 2 years ago
I posted an answer but it disappeared. Will try again.
SuperBark1 2 years ago
I do have the dogtra 200 collar and use the pager only to get my dogs attention away from the other dog,is that ok?
gameiohfreak 2 years ago
Somehow I don't think Dr. Yin would approve of the use of a shock collar.
greanie 2 years ago
You make it looks so simple!
pamelamarxsen 2 years ago
Thank you for posting this very simple but very encouraging video. It's caused me to tear up a bit because this is my summer project: to fix my fear-based dog aggressive dog. We've purchased our gentle leader, muzzle, and I'm off for the "treat bag" today. Thank you.
Beckcycle 2 years ago
"Dogs like MTV, not Masterpiece Theater"! I love it!
StacyBS 3 years ago