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From: HomeRemodelWorkshop
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  • hi, thanks so much for this video! I am trying to install a set of French doors, frame, side panels and all. Since this is my first attempt, I was wondering if you could guide me on the following point: how does framing/measurement for a set of french doors differ from that in your video?

    thanks!

  • @b0pN2 Two times door panel size plus 2-21/4 inches, on a standard size door height 6'-10" framing opening, pretty much same as single door with the additional door width added in,+++Bob

  • isn't that a jack stud? @ 1:17

  • @pc12net07 Depends on who teaches you as to the name. There are many building parts that are given different names dependent upon where you live with huge differences in other English speaking countries+++Bob

  • What would a 36" door be framed at than? Everyone only talks about framing 32" doors. Frame it out to 38 " wide? Thanks guys

  • @MegaSpanky24 With a standard 3/4 inch jamb the framing width would be 38 inches. +++Bob

  • i'm splitting a room by adding a wall with door. is it best to build the wall in place, add bottom and top plates then studs? or build then lift in place?

  • @orion1998is1 I have a few framing videos that will help you with this project.+++Bob

  • Door frame too tight, no shims needed other than at the header. It's a prehung double door, or interior french doors. got a nice close center gap at the top, but about a 16th of an inch overlap at the bottom. how should I correct this? plane the doors? or remove the door jamb and remove material from the door frame?

  • @Strankon First instinct would be to remove door frame and change framing material then re-hang door frame. +++Bob

  • Bob - I have seen some other videos and other people talking about double vertical headers. Is there a reason to do those or to not do those? P.S. Great videos! I am a subscriber

  • @aoeah2003 If you were going with a larger span say a double door or if the wall is particularly high and the weight of the wall framing and drywall itself weighed a bit I would consider using a double with 1/2 ply between. +++Bob Thanks for watching!

  • Good and simple video. It has been a while since I have done any framing. The framing part is easy, I couldn't remember exactly what the proper setup was for framing a door in. This was a good refresher. Thanks.

  • Thanks. I needed that.

  • always buy your door first so you know what your dealing with right?

  • @MFRoosy16 If you have the room to properly store the doors during building/remodeling then it is fine. Most projects I work on doors ,trim, cabinets, appliances will not be delivered until needed for installation+++Bob

  • I really hate those commercials

  • I would however appreciate if I could skip those commercials.

  • @Begbucks What kind of commercials do they have+++Bob

  • @HomeRemodelWorkshop The ones at the beginning or Adsense ads ok. I understand your monetizing aspects but you could set up to allow a skipping counter.

  • @Begbucks If its not asking too much where can I install that option for my viewers? +++Bob

  • @HomeRemodelWorkshop No not at all, most full youtube Partners have this option While I'm not fully versed in the outlines of Adsense to that extent I know that it indeed is an option as it is the case on other channels (when I see one I'll show you what I mean) it may mean less revenue for you however viewers shall appreciate this. You might try your Adsense panel & select options/settings.

  • @Begbucks I have very little control in adsense, I will try youtube settings Thanks +++Bob

  • At 1:28 you said "A for holding the weight of the door." Could you explain how this weight is transmitted, and to where it is transmitted. Also, I was wondering, since you have two inches of clearance between the top of the door and the bottom of the "header", then what difference would it make if it was a little out of level.

  • @OK55OK55OK The weight of the door is transmitted through the hinge and to the anchoring points the door is attached to the side framing then to the side framing itself and to the floor. A little out of level is fine I have worked in some older homes where if you set the top framing by measuring up both sides from the floor the door would not fit.+++Bob If you kept adding weight to the door untill it gave way the top hinge would fail first that is where the majority of the stress (load) is.

  • Ok ya got me LOL Pole Barn. So we're going to have a 36" door on one side of it and a hand built "horse half and half door. On the 36" we cut it at 38?.. On the half and half we want it 4ft wide and 6ft tall and it is going to be split at 3ft high. Does this one need a header also

  • Hey Bob! We are building a Ple Barn with a walk through exterior door. Will you please refresh our memories about how to do this...We havent even cut it out yet. We just cant remember. Thanks

  • @blgeorgio Unlike an interior door an exterior door requires a bearing header (this means it supports the weight above the door} The size of this header depends upon the width of the door and the amount of weight it needs to transfer to each side of the door. A pie barn huh. sounds like a place I would love to visit, after lunch maybe? +++Bob

  • Bob, I live in a 1960"s high rise. Wall are concrete, closets are ceiling to floor with bi-fold track doors. I want to remove the current doors, place in headers and use regular doors for two reasons, 1- I hate the look, 2- I'm putting in crown molding and with the doors in their current state it interupts the crown. I know I will need to set back the header to allow for sheet rock, I'm not sure how to attach the headers to the walls and ceiling, again concrete. Thanks

  • @John100657 I could be wrong but usually the high rises I have worked in have metal framing over the concrete and the interior walls are generally metal stud framing. You may want to talk to your building super and ask if there are any units being worked on that you could go in and lay your eyes on and get a better idea what you are dealing with. Get back with me and let me know what you find out+++Bob

  • @HomeRemodelWorkshop In one instance I worked on a high rise unit that the interior walls were 2 inches thick and only had a top and bottom track the balance of the entire wall was drywall panels only.+++Bob

  • Great video! Answered my question completely! Thanks...

  • Bob, you need to put a little light on the subject man. Hard to see what you're talking about. Most all of your video's are dark.

  • This is just great. fair play to yyou Mister Bob.

  • I thought this was funny. I was wrong.

  • You talk about making the king and cripple studs for door plumb. How do you go about that if you ar constructing the wall section on the floor, ie to be put up all at once?

  • @slhender1 Make sure it is good "by the numbers" before you raise wall then check again after wall is up and set then doublecheck door frame and adjust if needed.+++Bob Better to make the extra attempt to make plumb as possible now than later after electric and drywall.

  • Thanks

  • to many builders today take the easy way out and use no header...seen it a million times..these builders really need to be thrown out of the trade all it does it make it harder on the home owner in later years and gives the builder a terrible reputaion

  • Bob i would like to know if you are framing a wall how would you put the 2 together

    

  • make it idiot proof.. what is a cripple, as used by rotagbhd?

  • isnt the stud by the king stud a trimmer stud? i believe the short ones over the header would be the cripples.

  • Thanks for the Advice

  • A door in my basement opened into the laundry room, not a lot of space. I reversed this door, because it was right up against the water heater, didn't seem good. I found that this also gave a lot more space there to move around. Somehow, I got the door to stay open in the hallway automatically, maybe 1" away from the wall. Would be nice if it were closer to the wall. I want to do this for the bathroom door down there now. What's the science of getting the angle of the shims right to do this?

  • Good job Mate.

    Can i ask a question...

    If i was building a floor to ceiling closet (attached to an external load bearing wall, but not actually built into the wall) with double front floor to ceiling doors, would i use the same framing technique for the front of the closet?

    Cheers. :-)

  • What should I do about a 25+3/4" door? I don't know what the people who built my house were smoking but it was too much. Door is 29+3/4"Wx79+1/3"L. Yeah, I measured that right, I've been looking at this door for two days trying to avoid having to actually re-frame the entire thing. Is that my only option?

  • no you don't have to replace the whole door, you have a standard 2-6 door, the door has just been cut down probably to clear high carpet or something. If you take those measurements to lowe's and measuere from top of door to top of each hinge, and top of door to center of whole cut out, they can order you a door. It's also alot cheaper if you order it 80" tall and you cut it down yourself.

  • @clarson0420

    I have same problem, I just cut the door down to 29 3/4 with skil saw

    The rest of them I'm going to frame in all new, everyone says it is much easier

  • Hey. One thing to let you know....... The electrical box's are supposed to be 6 feet from any door way?

  • @Usernameinvalid16 electrical box was a switch box that you put near doors. It would be a pain in the rear if your switch was 6 foor away from your door.

  • I framed 80 in. high and 34 wide for a pre hung 32in. door, my framing wound up an inch and a half too wide and an inch and a half too low, and yes its a 32 inch door. What went wrong?

  • If your door is actually a standard door and it measures 32 inches, then you have approx. 1 1/2 inches of door jamb material, that would add up to 33 1/2 inches overall door and jamb width . Allowing for approximately 1/2 inch clearance to fit door into a 34 inch wide framed opening.

  • If your door is a 6 ft 8 in door plus 2 inches The framed opening would be 82 inches not 80.+++Bob

  • Thanks for the info. I'm subscribed. Thanks!

  • Ill be installing (my first time) a set of prehung double doors for our nursery which we converted from an open living room. I dont want to be that guy that everyone talks about how he screwed up the job. So, thank you for the videos!

  • look at my profile - Thanks that video is awsome

  • Personally, I find cripples on non-bearing doors to be a huge waste of time. A faster, better way is to simply nail full length studs together, then nail in the fill blocks, then the header. MUCH faster and less waste of material and time.

  • From a bearing point of view I see your point ,however the less and less time our lumber stays in the kiln to dry to keep costs down lets the studs have more of a tendency to warp and twist even after installed. I believe cross nailing header 2x4 may assist in keeping door where you put it. Thanks +++Bob

  • This is great! Thanks for another great video.

  • You forgot to mention a few things BOB like cross leg the rough opening BOB not good BOB. BOB you did not tell the people how to check for that BOB. Makes the door look real bad. Also BOB getting the straightest king studs you can find no warped or bows if possible BOB. BOB there is more for quality framing BOB.

  • Hi Sam,You make a couple good points there but only so much can go into one short video.That is why I have already made a video about tips for building straight walls where I covered your concerns.I also made a video about how I like to plumb walls which is also important with hanging doors.Please check them out and let BOB know what you think+++Bob

  • LOL OK+++Bob

  • holy schmidt that was good - i subscribed - thanx!!

  • you are good 5*

  • Good info, do you have anything for squeaky floors

  • thank you,,,helped me so much!

  • another good video.

    these are addicting.

  • I absolutely love your videos. You are a fantastic teacher. I would love to see a video from you on drop ceilings and how to box out our vents for our basement ceilings - any suggestions? We are going to try that new ceiling max.

  • We usually frame drops in and put drywall on them and then run drop ceiling flat.Not saying this is a better way to do it just the way,just seems to make a nice clean finish+++Bob

  • good info thanks for the tips... Kev

  • my girlfriend says im pre hung

  • Thanks Bob, I'm a recent subscriber and I gotta say your vids on DIY are the best on the internet. These practical, easy to follow guides help everyone understand home renos better. You rock keep going!

  • great video- when he said frame the door 2 inches wider than the actual door does that mean each side or the 30 inch door is framed at 32 inches.

  • A 30 inch door would be framed at 32 inches total in framing width.===Bob This allows 1 1/2 inches for the door jamb and 1/2 inch for shimming.

  • You are the man!

  • GREAT VIDEO BOB! Hey, I am framing my 3rd car garage at the moment and am using steel studs. Do you have anything that would help me with that? Thanks again.

    Rob.

  • another great/very helpfull video.

  • hey bob great explanation and video...wanted to put my two cents in on the replies you've received over terminology.i have been researching door framing and have found that some terms are interchangeable,regional,or assumed understood.

    P.S...Hey Nolan, where is your video?

    SOME PEOPLE ALWAYS HAVE TO KNOW MORE

  • cool Video in Kansas most people go 2 and a half bigger  I personally go 2 and a Quarter Bigger

  • A little more room is better than less,this is the way I was taught.Thank for the post!---Bob

  • I'm not a builder, so I should probably not even post this but I've always heard the terms "sole plate" and "top plate" instead of the term "base plate". Just an observation. Nice videos. Thank you for making them as I have to hang an exterior door pretty soon.

  • Thanks for the comment ----Bob

  • There is also the term bottom plate which I hear a lot where I am in Texas.

  • Pretty good but the terminology could be better; any stud cut to hold up a header is called a jack stud, not a cripple. No need for an engineer if you have access to a building code book, that all of your city building inspectors have, you'll save some money. And last but not least the beam across the top is a header. Good information, I agree with a lot of it but having proper vocabulary means a lot as well.

  • In construction there seems to be alot of ways to say the same thing. In vocational school my teacher always called the jack stud a cripple, just the way I was taught. Please feel free to let me know if the way I say things could be lost through interpretation. Thanks for watching. Bob

  • If you'll type jack stud in google you will find many sites clearly displaying the difference between a jack stud and a cripple. As for the beam/header issue, i've never seen anyone call it a beam. I just think if you want your videos to look professional it's worth the extra distance to check the terms. Never the less a good video, I like most of your comments.

  • Hey Nolan, you sound like one of those guys who knows everything and loves to to tell other people what they are doing wrong. Just an observation:)

  • Just to let you know I appeciate your comment but when you put information out there for public consumption you have to expect criticism.I have the option to allow comments or refuse them,in this case he makes valid points.I learned something so I consider this a good comment.I cannot be too thin skinned and still plan on doing this in the future. P.S Did you like the video?--- Thanks Bob

  • Yes I do.  good job

  • I guess if the only thing you find wrongwith this video is the terminology....the actual rough opening was built correct....NOT MATTER WHAT YOU WANT TO CALL IT!!

  • good job; covered the important stuff!

  • i fram housesas well and i think he did a good job specially coming back on the load bearing header.keep up the good work.

  • Sweet bob loved it !Dennis.

  • THANKS DENNIS!

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