The mud is way to wet, showers are like roofing. everything must over lap, which means floors and sills shound be installed first befor the walls in order to eliminate perimiter leakage.
I'm just learning, but shouldn't the tiles go on top of the finished shower floor? I am about to attempt this and I would put the shower floor tiles first, then the wall tiles so there is no leak? Anyone please advise.
gosh you people just talk to much. If you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all! I'm so sick of people trying their hardest to be perfect and trying to correct people. Leave the tile Master alone, eventually he is still learning new techniques every now and then because in our society we're always developing. So just stop ok. Stop acting all perfect, not one of you is perfect, and their are different people who do things differently, and they get the job done.
That mortar is WAY TOO WET. You obviously did not learn from an experienced tile installer. The weep holes are plugged, providing no escape for the water that will penetrate the upper mortar bed. this shower floor will fail withing 5 years.
As tile expert of 10+ years, I feel that you are mixing that way too wet which will cause stability problems in the future. Not to mention the liner method is a thing of the past....using a liner allows that mud bed to soak up any moisture that hits the floor. As the mud bed soaks up this moisture over time, you will see a problem with mold and mildew. There are many systems available on the market that will create a WATERPROOF seal and the mold and mildew will not be an issue.
all I know is that if the customer is happy, if the installation doesn't fail in 50 years, you get paid, and the job looks beautiful all techniques are good. Beautiful job tilemaster guy.
Hey guys,Nice looking tile work,but just curious as to why you dont do the dry pack on the shower floor up to the durock and then use a curdy membrane or some sort of waterproofing before you install the tile.I wont touch a shower unless the customer agrees to this.Cheers
@TileMasterGa lame ...anyone that calls them self tilemaster should know that shower floors always get floated on dry pack. im sure you use backer board too lame...
Great video, but isn't it ideal to tile the pan before the tile on the wall goes up? It seems like those joints over time could be compromised. I have been doing tile for a little while and need to develop expertise at floating the shower pan. Am I right? Or do you think it is not so important? Thanks for the video.
Styles from state to state change. But the proof is in the qty. This guy has done allot of jobs. And I appreciate that. I have a clock 800 showers under my belt. This guy is active. Are you?
before dry pack, do a preslope of 1/2 inch at walls and corners to nill at drain. you can use any cementious product without agrrigate or rock (thinset mortar, sand mix, brick mortar, tile crete). allow to dry, install a pan liner and pour a curb 4 to 6 inches high, then allow to dry. Then your backer board . then your dry pack. Dry next day ready for tile, unless a bench. lay floor first day, second day walls. grout and caulk third day. I only work in commercial or multimillion dollar homes.
can somebody tell me what is the composition of the mortar, how much sand and cement i have to use, what type of cement is the best? can i found the mortar already mixt, just to add water?
That mortar is way wet. I only mix mud like that if I have 7 or 8 shower pans to do in one day. It will not allow the water to leave properly. You want more loose dirt mix that you can pack down. If you are a pro it will work but if this is your first attempt at a pan make your mud thicker and scrape into drain. This pan will work but its hard to say how long and will probably have issues.
Thanks for the info . When you use polyvinyl (pvc) as the pan & it is necessary to seam 2 pieces of material together ,what adhesive(solvent ) do you use to glue them together to insure a single waterproof liner? Please advise ! thanks Bill
Well, if possible try to avoid using two seperate pieces... on market you can buy 5 or 6 feet wide shower pan liner. But if you have to put them together use special glue - it is designed for connecting 2 shower pan liners, but you have to follow exact directions. usually you can buy it in same place that pan liner, just ask for it. DO NOT USE cpvs, pvs or abs glue!!!
i never understand why setters float the pan AFTER they set the walls. This is how puncture holes are made in the liner, thus the bad rap vynl gets, plus, the wall tile should go OVER the floor. Why not build the rough shower then tile it? whats the advantage doing otherwise???
We just discovered that in our sunken shower, there is no pan, i guess, well there is no cement on the floor under the tile, only sand, and there is no waterproof membrain, was impressed by your work, wondered if we should do the rubber membrain over the sand, then the cement over that? please help.
It's hard to tell what exactly needs to be done without looking at the problem. Possibly you may have to replace the shower drain as well. I would recommend to remove all the sand, install shower liner or other waterproofing, and then pour cement and slope it. Hope It was helpful.
billbob2003 dosent want to use "play sand" because play sand has been tumbled to round over the grains of sand. much better to use all purpose or plaster sand.
thats the mambrane huh. never seen that kind before. i dont know about perfect. how much slope is there in that pan? you can do a pan that small in 15 minutes with deck mud. does that mud sag at all?
why didnt you just use deck mud? you would have been able to do it in one shot. i have never seen shower pan mud mixed that loose. you cant shape anything with that. why not float the pan the day after you float the walls? all that traffic on the shower pan membrain. is that greenboard on the horizontal part of the left side of the dam? you georgian boys will get blown out of the water is you come out to california and work with us
just to let you know green stuff - it is membrane ( green color) made by " Elite building products" in Atlanta , regarding rest of your comment- no comment- every one have different methods, and as you can see i can shape that floor perfectly in 10-15 minutes. You will be blown out of water is you come out to Atlanta to wotk with me.....
tilemasterga, you saved my hide! I install tile regularly but have never installed a shower pan. I've been asked to, but have declined because of lack of experience. Well, I found this video along with countless others showing how to install and now, I've finally taken a job and completed it successfully! Thanks for posting your videos!
Dry pack is the way to go I agree with a 5:1 ratio. and I use pea gravel around the weep holes so they will let water drain..Your work looks great keep up the good work...
gday mate!.. firstly, you said '2.5 - 3" at the wall..etc etc at the drain'...thats providing the floor is dead level to begin with, which it never is! I have to say that your method looks pretty cool, but here in Australia (im sorry!) our method is much more accurate, and we lay 3 wet areas per day!...I was just wondering how your business survives if you have to let a shower recess set for 3 days before laying tiles??!!!
3- Try to use a Schluter drain kit and Kerdi waterproof membrane. You can still float your pan, but then you can waterproof it 100% with Kerdi. Then use Kerdi band to waterproof the membrane in-between the wall and base. You can guarantee your work and not worry about call backs or your reputation. You can also charge more!
kerdi has a lot of build up in the corners and it takes a lot of work, roll on can do the same thing just quicker... set the same day. by the way what do you use under the kerdi....? sheetrock like the manufacturer recommends?
2-You also need to float your pan to the wall or cement board, not to tile....... and then water proof the seam in between the wall and the pan. That is a major point of failure due to its location and expansion and contraction. Water will roll down the wall right into that seam. It is also nice to have your wall tile sit on the top of your pan tile.
1- You need to water proof the cement with something like Mapie HPG. Cement is porous, if the tile or grout fails you are relying on your rubber membrane and weep holes for drainage.
Has anyone ever heard of drypack? It's a poor mixture of sand and portland cement. 4 to 1 or 5 to1 works well. It's only mixed damp, it's not poured concrete. Water travels easily through drypack making it's way to the weepholes in the drain. Wet concrete won't let the water seep in, instead it will saturate everything and wick up the walls. Even worse, you've got greenboard on the top of the curb with nails penetrating the pan.
Yeah your right. Dry pack is the right way to do it. Dry pack also makes it easier to screet excess mortar away. And you should ALWAYS mud and tile the shower pan first before the wall.
I use Custom float by Custom Building Products! it is premixed but it is very similar to a 3:1 ratio! i've used custom float for about 5 years now and i found that i like my mixture alil wetter than a 3;1 but not near as wet as hes in this video! And as for as the drain i use a Schulter drain along with Schulter Kerdi waterproofing membrane! Its a newer product but its pretty much goof proof! if you havnt heard of it you shud look it up! later
you can tell hes been doing this for a long time see how quick he levels it out he has the fall perfect when you do this sort of thing for a living you can do it in a matter of no time nice job
I was taught sand and Cement at a 3 : 1 ratio by the best Tiler I have worked with. Using a 60cm level you end up with a very good finish. I have found that when it's too wet you end up with hollows and humps all over the place. Your method is a bit out there, but your end results look very good so fair play to you!
i have been doing wet bed floors for over 25yrs i was taught by some old time master tilesetters in south fla. i am not saying your way is wrong but your mud is to wet how do you expect to get a smooth surface with wet mud i have used sand and portland cement for years dri mix its easy to screed off and slop to drain properly,icould how ever tell you how to use that wet mud with some fire clay and sand or perelite to mud the bottom of the showr walls and how to build curb
2-3 days? Thats not very specific and that mud is way too loose, and 2-3 days is alot of wasted time. Does anyone around here know how to spell? Slop anyone?
hey i dont know how you guys get do it with cement that wet, you should try using a dry mix that is 3:1 (3 sand and1 cement) and use it with only enogh water so that it will hold shape in your hand, i will make a video when i get the chance but this way you can nould the cement to pefection, not aying your way is wronge but you cant possibly have the floor flat with humps and ips this way and it would take longer to tile :D but well done
hey ppl!! i install tile for a living as well! i do use the schluter products but i always float my shower pans with custom float! its a mortar especially for floating mortar beds! then i use the shluter kerdi as my waterproofing membrane it cant fail if installed correctly!! and btw man if you can install your liner and mortar bed in 45 min youve got some mad skills!! lol iiv been in this business along time and iv never seen anybody that fast!! later
Music is awesome. Let's see Mr. FireAce put his own video on here if he has those kind of remarks. Thanks so much My husband said we have too wait a week before tiling to make sure it is good and dry. We did the pan Saturday afternoon. Are good to start tiling? Thanks for your help it is appreciated!
First, the music sucks. Second, you have a nightmare job doing it that way and it takes forever. I install the shluter shower floor system and waterproof it in 2.5 hours and walk with $500.
im not with the whole mud being that wet but if it works for him then its all good. but as far as the shluter goes, that stuff is for people who cant get pans down and need help. at least this tilemaster dude sticks to the old school ways.
A small amount of pee pock should be used around the drain as to not fill in the drains weep holes.
wildtileman84 23 hours ago
The mud is way to wet, showers are like roofing. everything must over lap, which means floors and sills shound be installed first befor the walls in order to eliminate perimiter leakage.
wildtileman84 23 hours ago
I'm just learning, but shouldn't the tiles go on top of the finished shower floor? I am about to attempt this and I would put the shower floor tiles first, then the wall tiles so there is no leak? Anyone please advise.
darthmal 6 days ago
You got the fall right but the back edge of the screed where it meets the wall doesn't look level to me? Bit rough.
molestermouse 1 week ago
Your pack on top of the pan liner is way to wet.
spoonerdee 1 week ago
This has been flagged as spam show
gosh you people just talk to much. If you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all! I'm so sick of people trying their hardest to be perfect and trying to correct people. Leave the tile Master alone, eventually he is still learning new techniques every now and then because in our society we're always developing. So just stop ok. Stop acting all perfect, not one of you is perfect, and their are different people who do things differently, and they get the job done.
obikelaulbai 1 month ago
Comment removed
obikelaulbai 1 month ago
I'm supposed to take your advice on building and sloping a shower floor but you didn't even bother to spell "sloping" right? WTH is "sloaping"?
TheRaleighRocket 6 months ago
That mortar is WAY TOO WET. You obviously did not learn from an experienced tile installer. The weep holes are plugged, providing no escape for the water that will penetrate the upper mortar bed. this shower floor will fail withing 5 years.
jasdco 6 months ago
As tile expert of 10+ years, I feel that you are mixing that way too wet which will cause stability problems in the future. Not to mention the liner method is a thing of the past....using a liner allows that mud bed to soak up any moisture that hits the floor. As the mud bed soaks up this moisture over time, you will see a problem with mold and mildew. There are many systems available on the market that will create a WATERPROOF seal and the mold and mildew will not be an issue.
wddunbar 11 months ago
all I know is that if the customer is happy, if the installation doesn't fail in 50 years, you get paid, and the job looks beautiful all techniques are good. Beautiful job tilemaster guy.
brokenarrow2222 1 year ago 2
Hey guys,Nice looking tile work,but just curious as to why you dont do the dry pack on the shower floor up to the durock and then use a curdy membrane or some sort of waterproofing before you install the tile.I wont touch a shower unless the customer agrees to this.Cheers
steveobrien1000 1 year ago 2
Dobra robota Michal pozdrawia Bartek
puzyrewicz 1 year ago
excellant video!! had a contractor not finish and this was a lifesaver!! Thank you
Marcfinkle 1 year ago
tHX...
TileMasterGa 2 weeks ago
@TileMasterGa lame ...anyone that calls them self tilemaster should know that shower floors always get floated on dry pack. im sure you use backer board too lame...
zoso421
zoso0421 1 week ago
Great video, but isn't it ideal to tile the pan before the tile on the wall goes up? It seems like those joints over time could be compromised. I have been doing tile for a little while and need to develop expertise at floating the shower pan. Am I right? Or do you think it is not so important? Thanks for the video.
Pete8846 1 year ago
Comment removed
HiBricolage1 1 year ago
can you just use ordinary concrete for that? Is it wise to install the wall tile first before you make the floor or does it matter?
sylk258 1 year ago
Good video, thanks for sharing. A little dialogue would've helped, but overall just what I was looking for!
70noipmahc 1 year ago
Comment removed
KorporatePunk 1 year ago
Styles from state to state change. But the proof is in the qty. This guy has done allot of jobs. And I appreciate that. I have a clock 800 showers under my belt. This guy is active. Are you?
KorporatePunk 1 year ago
is to wetery is not how u do it how long u been doing tile
713estrada 1 year ago
before dry pack, do a preslope of 1/2 inch at walls and corners to nill at drain. you can use any cementious product without agrrigate or rock (thinset mortar, sand mix, brick mortar, tile crete). allow to dry, install a pan liner and pour a curb 4 to 6 inches high, then allow to dry. Then your backer board . then your dry pack. Dry next day ready for tile, unless a bench. lay floor first day, second day walls. grout and caulk third day. I only work in commercial or multimillion dollar homes.
tmwmwmplayer 1 year ago
can somebody tell me what is the composition of the mortar, how much sand and cement i have to use, what type of cement is the best? can i found the mortar already mixt, just to add water?
calinsalanta 1 year ago
That mortar is way wet. I only mix mud like that if I have 7 or 8 shower pans to do in one day. It will not allow the water to leave properly. You want more loose dirt mix that you can pack down. If you are a pro it will work but if this is your first attempt at a pan make your mud thicker and scrape into drain. This pan will work but its hard to say how long and will probably have issues.
montanacustomtile 1 year ago
Comment removed
montanacustomtile 1 year ago
Thanks for the info . When you use polyvinyl (pvc) as the pan & it is necessary to seam 2 pieces of material together ,what adhesive(solvent ) do you use to glue them together to insure a single waterproof liner? Please advise ! thanks Bill
whr241 2 years ago
Well, if possible try to avoid using two seperate pieces... on market you can buy 5 or 6 feet wide shower pan liner. But if you have to put them together use special glue - it is designed for connecting 2 shower pan liners, but you have to follow exact directions. usually you can buy it in same place that pan liner, just ask for it. DO NOT USE cpvs, pvs or abs glue!!!
TileMasterGa 2 years ago
NOT USE CPVC, PVC or ABS glue
TileMasterGa 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Keep deleting my comments about what a hack job this is and I will return until you understand the gross error of your ways!
ahhhforgetit1 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
What exactly is the name of stuff that you are using?
It aint DRY pack I'll tell ya that!
ahhhforgetit1 2 years ago
What exactly is the name of stuff that you are using?
kaetherd 2 years ago
i never understand why setters float the pan AFTER they set the walls. This is how puncture holes are made in the liner, thus the bad rap vynl gets, plus, the wall tile should go OVER the floor. Why not build the rough shower then tile it? whats the advantage doing otherwise???
tailhunter 2 years ago
the stone on the wall hase no groult lines,
do you use a clear silicone?
datzfast 2 years ago
No silicone, i am using matching color non-sanded grout, Do not use silicone to fill grout lines.
TileMasterGa 2 years ago
We just discovered that in our sunken shower, there is no pan, i guess, well there is no cement on the floor under the tile, only sand, and there is no waterproof membrain, was impressed by your work, wondered if we should do the rubber membrain over the sand, then the cement over that? please help.
littledogs1 2 years ago
It's hard to tell what exactly needs to be done without looking at the problem. Possibly you may have to replace the shower drain as well. I would recommend to remove all the sand, install shower liner or other waterproofing, and then pour cement and slope it. Hope It was helpful.
TileMasterGa 2 years ago
Can You make sand top mix that wet says on bag not exceed 4 qts water
daver37 2 years ago
Comment removed
jazcastiglione 2 years ago
hear we do dry packs, so the water can work through to the weap holes if needed.
we never pour wet like this. also we do pre-pours before the liner is installed.
redstile1 2 years ago
billbob2003 dosent want to use "play sand" because play sand has been tumbled to round over the grains of sand. much better to use all purpose or plaster sand.
jgthunder 2 years ago
well im sure the wet mud has 2 dry sum time dont yall think
thatzgood 2 years ago
thats the mambrane huh. never seen that kind before. i dont know about perfect. how much slope is there in that pan? you can do a pan that small in 15 minutes with deck mud. does that mud sag at all?
bennieblanco13 2 years ago
why didnt you just use deck mud? you would have been able to do it in one shot. i have never seen shower pan mud mixed that loose. you cant shape anything with that. why not float the pan the day after you float the walls? all that traffic on the shower pan membrain. is that greenboard on the horizontal part of the left side of the dam? you georgian boys will get blown out of the water is you come out to california and work with us
bennieblanco13 2 years ago
just to let you know green stuff - it is membrane ( green color) made by " Elite building products" in Atlanta , regarding rest of your comment- no comment- every one have different methods, and as you can see i can shape that floor perfectly in 10-15 minutes. You will be blown out of water is you come out to Atlanta to wotk with me.....
TileMasterGa 2 years ago
tilemasterga, you saved my hide! I install tile regularly but have never installed a shower pan. I've been asked to, but have declined because of lack of experience. Well, I found this video along with countless others showing how to install and now, I've finally taken a job and completed it successfully! Thanks for posting your videos!
garzaedu 2 years ago
does he even cut the sand topping with play sand?
billbob2003 2 years ago
the wetter you mix sand mix the weaker it is....just so you know...
happydaystile 2 years ago
Dry pack is the way to go I agree with a 5:1 ratio. and I use pea gravel around the weep holes so they will let water drain..Your work looks great keep up the good work...
sctileman 2 years ago 2
this is the correct way,the mud in the video is way to wet! I can float that shower floor with dry pack and tile it same day!
389spunky 1 year ago
gday mate!.. firstly, you said '2.5 - 3" at the wall..etc etc at the drain'...thats providing the floor is dead level to begin with, which it never is! I have to say that your method looks pretty cool, but here in Australia (im sorry!) our method is much more accurate, and we lay 3 wet areas per day!...I was just wondering how your business survives if you have to let a shower recess set for 3 days before laying tiles??!!!
paulkuvener 2 years ago
3- Try to use a Schluter drain kit and Kerdi waterproof membrane. You can still float your pan, but then you can waterproof it 100% with Kerdi. Then use Kerdi band to waterproof the membrane in-between the wall and base. You can guarantee your work and not worry about call backs or your reputation. You can also charge more!
rjthomasindyusa 2 years ago
kerdi has a lot of build up in the corners and it takes a lot of work, roll on can do the same thing just quicker... set the same day. by the way what do you use under the kerdi....? sheetrock like the manufacturer recommends?
happydaystile 2 years ago
2-You also need to float your pan to the wall or cement board, not to tile....... and then water proof the seam in between the wall and the pan. That is a major point of failure due to its location and expansion and contraction. Water will roll down the wall right into that seam. It is also nice to have your wall tile sit on the top of your pan tile.
rjthomasindyusa 2 years ago 2
completely agree, you have to follow watershed...
happydaystile 2 years ago
1- You need to water proof the cement with something like Mapie HPG. Cement is porous, if the tile or grout fails you are relying on your rubber membrane and weep holes for drainage.
rjthomasindyusa 2 years ago
Has anyone ever heard of drypack? It's a poor mixture of sand and portland cement. 4 to 1 or 5 to1 works well. It's only mixed damp, it's not poured concrete. Water travels easily through drypack making it's way to the weepholes in the drain. Wet concrete won't let the water seep in, instead it will saturate everything and wick up the walls. Even worse, you've got greenboard on the top of the curb with nails penetrating the pan.
cornflakeusa 2 years ago
Yeah your right. Dry pack is the right way to do it. Dry pack also makes it easier to screet excess mortar away. And you should ALWAYS mud and tile the shower pan first before the wall.
sonnydlite 2 years ago
Seems that each state has its preffered method. I favor drypack as well.
Robkat3751 2 years ago 2
I use Custom float by Custom Building Products! it is premixed but it is very similar to a 3:1 ratio! i've used custom float for about 5 years now and i found that i like my mixture alil wetter than a 3;1 but not near as wet as hes in this video! And as for as the drain i use a Schulter drain along with Schulter Kerdi waterproofing membrane! Its a newer product but its pretty much goof proof! if you havnt heard of it you shud look it up! later
ashtonmac88 3 years ago
you chould look into laticrete hydro ban it is a lot quicker, easier and with the fiber and everything will offer the same warranty...
happydaystile 2 years ago
you can tell hes been doing this for a long time see how quick he levels it out he has the fall perfect when you do this sort of thing for a living you can do it in a matter of no time nice job
rolficus 3 years ago
at what point do you show the pre-slope to the weep holes
stocktontile 3 years ago 2
pre-sloap is under shower liner
TileMasterGa 2 years ago
sand and portland type1-2 cement at 4:1 ...
shocktrauma13 3 years ago
I was taught sand and Cement at a 3 : 1 ratio by the best Tiler I have worked with. Using a 60cm level you end up with a very good finish. I have found that when it's too wet you end up with hollows and humps all over the place. Your method is a bit out there, but your end results look very good so fair play to you!
bazza30M 3 years ago
i have been doing wet bed floors for over 25yrs i was taught by some old time master tilesetters in south fla. i am not saying your way is wrong but your mud is to wet how do you expect to get a smooth surface with wet mud i have used sand and portland cement for years dri mix its easy to screed off and slop to drain properly,icould how ever tell you how to use that wet mud with some fire clay and sand or perelite to mud the bottom of the showr walls and how to build curb
folcrum234 3 years ago
2-3 days? Thats not very specific and that mud is way too loose, and 2-3 days is alot of wasted time. Does anyone around here know how to spell? Slop anyone?
gittty 3 years ago 2
hey i dont know how you guys get do it with cement that wet, you should try using a dry mix that is 3:1 (3 sand and1 cement) and use it with only enogh water so that it will hold shape in your hand, i will make a video when i get the chance but this way you can nould the cement to pefection, not aying your way is wronge but you cant possibly have the floor flat with humps and ips this way and it would take longer to tile :D but well done
auzziman911 3 years ago
hey ppl!! i install tile for a living as well! i do use the schluter products but i always float my shower pans with custom float! its a mortar especially for floating mortar beds! then i use the shluter kerdi as my waterproofing membrane it cant fail if installed correctly!! and btw man if you can install your liner and mortar bed in 45 min youve got some mad skills!! lol iiv been in this business along time and iv never seen anybody that fast!! later
ashtonmac88 3 years ago
Music is awesome. Let's see Mr. FireAce put his own video on here if he has those kind of remarks. Thanks so much My husband said we have too wait a week before tiling to make sure it is good and dry. We did the pan Saturday afternoon. Are good to start tiling? Thanks for your help it is appreciated!
aliveannette 3 years ago
yap - it is ready 4-5 days enought long... thx
TileMasterGa 3 years ago
First, the music sucks. Second, you have a nightmare job doing it that way and it takes forever. I install the shluter shower floor system and waterproof it in 2.5 hours and walk with $500.
FireAce44 3 years ago
Music is ok!!! And its not nightmare as you can see - takes me 35-45 minutes( nstall liner and mud) and i walk out with $300 or more!!!
TileMasterGa 3 years ago
im not with the whole mud being that wet but if it works for him then its all good. but as far as the shluter goes, that stuff is for people who cant get pans down and need help. at least this tilemaster dude sticks to the old school ways.
bennieblanco13 2 years ago
Try to do my way- you will never do it difrently again - it just need skils and experience!!! hard as rock after 48 hours!!!
TileMasterGa 3 years ago
how long do you wait in between laying the shower pan and then tiling how long to dry?
aliveannette 3 years ago
I am waiting about 35-48 hours before tiling, but is ready to walk on after 18-24
TileMasterGa 3 years ago
not talking shit at all but you wait 35 to 38 hours to set on after you float. is that code in georgia?
bennieblanco13 2 years ago
true just spread lightly on the screed I do it all the time the screed never comes up long as the screeds made right tho
vinzo720 3 years ago
there is membrain - grey color from home - depot - shower pan liner. just look closer :)
TileMasterGa 3 years ago
Why no rubber membrane and 3 part drain?
computergeec1975 3 years ago