Added: 3 years ago
From: blumpher
Views: 12,602
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  • cheers.. ill be doing mine tomorrow..

    

  • Very helpful, thanks!

  • are m4 better then hope 6 pot ti ???

  • @antonyr123 don't know sorry..the m4 have been fine for me and handle the French Alps fine...

  • @blumpher i wanted a upgrade but idk what to get

    Im a big downhill rider. 15 stone 6ft 6 so cheapo brakes dont work well lol

  • @antonyr123 ha! the 6 pot would be the ones to go for then!

  • @blumpher i got them last night so should be cool. i wonder if there much better then a normal shity cable calipers

  • @antonyr123 you'll be over the bars!

  • @blumpher serously ? now im really excited lol

    i need another excuse for crashing lol

    do they come ready bleeded ? i oreded the floting hope disk and braided lines too.

  • @antonyr123 yes, they are rady to fit, fully bled with pads in ...mine were anyway.

    Go gently to start with...giving them a good dose of water and some sharp stops to start beds the pas in easily, it will be stoppie heaven from now on..the flating disks ping nicely as they cool down after being used on a good downhill....!

  • @blumpher really that good.. Now im getting worryed..

    i'v never maintained my bike in last 300-400miles of road riding.

    still feels good but im a car guy :( idk what needs doing!

  • i just noticed on the front brake lever the resovoir lid has a small gap in it but the rear one does not have this. when i pull the lever i can here a little noise and very tiny amounts of fluid are bubling out. first i thought the top cap was damaged but it is designed this way. how do i stop this tiny leak. could it be the rubber diaphragm.

  • i bled my hope mono m4's but the pad are permanently close to the rotor and they don't retract back in enough to alow enough gap between the pads and rotor. what could this be? i have bled them made sure the pistons are fully pushed in and everything. only thing i haven't tried is new hoses. to be fair though they have been a problem since the first day i bought them new and it has always been impossible to get them properly setup so they dont rub the rotors.

  • @1982FMJ Take the pads out again and pump the pistons out a bit. wipe over so they are nice and clean. Lubricate them with a few drops of brake fluid and push them in , then pump out again and wipe again.Do this a few times. Before you insert pads, all 4 pistons should be flush with the caliper body. Have you got the caliper centralised so the space between the caliper body and the edge of the disk is the same each side? You should be fine then, no rub

  • i bled my hope mono m4's but the pad are permanently close to the rotor and they don't retract back in enough to alow enough gap between the pads and rotor. what could this be? i have bled them made sure the pistons are fully pushed in and everything. only thing i haven't tried is new hoses. to be fair though they have been a problem since the first day i bought them new and it has always been impossible to get them properly setup so they dont rub the rotors.

  • thanks i will try this out thanks for taking the time to respond and advise.

    cheers.

  • they dont seem to want to go back in, do i have to release the bleed nipple? i am so bad at this!

  • @slapspak well...if the caliper is full of fluid and there's no space, yes. Just tweak the bleed nipple open a fraction and push the pistons back in. Be careful not to get the pads contaminated with fluid though or the brakes won't work very well. If you haven't bled them, they should go back in, so try pumping them out very slightly and cleaning them. You can lubricate them with a couple of drops of brake fluid as the seals can stick a bit if the brake hasn;t been used for a while.

  • good vid. does anyone know how to get the pistons back in if you have pumped them right out (but still in the calliper)??? this is on the hope mono originals.

  • good vid, does anyone know what to do if you have taken the pads out and the pistons have pumped right out how do you push them back in??? this is on hope mini, the original ones.

  • @slapspak yes...easy! make sure the pistons are clean on the outside..use a toothbruch or a cloth to wipe off any dirt(don't scratch them as they will leak.) If you have an old set of pads, put them in and use a flat bladed screwdriver to lever the psitons back into the caliper. Just work gradually at them and they will both eventually sink back full. Fit new pads and away you go!

  • aw man how can get brake fluid on your hands... latex gloves ;)

  • what diameter tubing does the bleed niple need?

    i thought these seemed like nice brakes but having no pad adjustment doesnt seem to work out well in he long run. I think the avid juciy brakes will be much better for caliper alignment ease in the long run. I have found them virtually impossible to align without rubbing rotors very annoying. I think avid are going to overtake the hopes.

  • I think it was around 4 mm model aeroplane engine silicone rubber tubing..

    lack of pad adjustment isn't an issue for me, they work fine. It's not hard to get the alignment spot on using the different thickness washers and 5 minutes. Once done., it's sorted for life!

  • Thanks!

  • Hello there! Good explanation.

    I have a hope mini lever with a pre 2003 hope m4 caliper. How much fluid you put in the reservoir? All the way to the rubber seal or half the reservoir (like in a motorcycle). Thanks in advance! 5 stars.

  • all the way to the rubber seal...it expands and contracts as the fluid hearts and cools.

  • thanks, nice and simple explanation. i just changed over from a single too a twin pot, ile do mine propper now. :)

  • glad it was understandable...enjoy the extra power from your new brakes...!

  • i had these and used them at a downhill park in kicking horse mountain resort in canada. THe disc became so hot my braking was virtualy eliminated at one point and i had to stop to let the disc cool. IS this normal for all disc brakes. Im not sure if the pads were worn down but they only did this due to the massive heat buildup on the downhil. WOuld different pad types help this. what is the most common cause for the pads rubbing rotors when you have tried everythng to align them

  • the organic pads are better for that sort of braking rather than the sintered ones. all brakes will fade like that eventually, try braking in short burst rather than continually dragging them(easier said than done , I know!) but they worked fine for me for 2 months of riding in the French Alps. If the disks only rib on one point in the revolution of the wheel, the disk is warped...this could have happened? Otherwise it's the way they are shimmed. Make sure the pistons aren't sticking too...

  • you dont wana use a rag to soak up the fluid as you may introduce foreign bodies into your brake system which wouldn't be good!

  • I do use an old syringe now, as it's easier...

  • Thanks for the vid!

    I need to bleed my rear hope brake, but am changing from dot 5.1 to 4 - do you have any tips on doing a full fluid changewithout filling the system with air? Or should I just get hold of some 5.1?

  • if you really must change to dot 4, the 2 types of fluid will mix so just keep filling the master cylinder and pump it through the system. Don't fill it with air, it will take a lot longer to bleeed.

    Why not just buy a small container of dot 5.1? it;s not expensive and it will last you a fair while. I work on the basis of filling the master cylinder reservoir 6-8 times as that normally seems to ensure you've flushed out the system well.

  • thanks, yeah I would rather use 5.1, i just already have some dot 4 and want to get out on my bike today or tomorrow lol!

  • I'm about to bleed my mono M4s for the first time since I bought them... which is about 3 years ago. No wonder they aren't working all that well anymore.

    Thanks for the vid!

  • that's ok...you should notice a bit of a difference with fresh fluid!

  • lovely South Wales accents there chaps :)

    Very informative, Thanks.

    dew dew, isnt it?

  • not quite, Butt!

    come out from down under by there!

    Hwyl....!

    Iechyd Da

    etc\ etc etc!!

  • sorry mate just stumbled across another vid explaining how to do it nut mine must be different version as there are no cap 'outside the calliper' to access the pistons, its driving me mad.........

  • If they are all silver they are the eariler M4 hope calipers, also they will have 4 pads. If they are these, the pads will pump out into the middle of the caliper, and then you can pull the others out with some thin nosed pliers.

  • thanks for that mate, should be a big help, thing is i've just bought these brakes (well at least i think i have, i cant really see the callipar well, but its got four pots on either disc- two each side and there leaking so think there is a seel that tore etc, any ideas how to put new ones in?????

  • i will try that mate thanks

  • yes the wheel locks but when i leave go of the brake the pad is still stuck in its like if the piston locks or something plz help

  • that's how the brake is supposed to work..?? or am i misunderstanding what you're saying?

    If you pull the lever the brake should lock the wheel.

  • hi mate i have the same brake but when i pull my brake it just locks on and it wont come loose so my wheel does not turn plz help

  • you either haven't got the pads fully back in before you put the wheel in or you need to ajust the little allen key screw pushrod that goes fom the lever into the master cylinder. Screw that in and you will adjust the lever travel and get some free play so the brake comes off..

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