i have a 1951 6/1 lister dursley startomatic plant , the difference in the running is like day and night , the old british listers are pretty smooth , also did you find any casting sand in your engine , ive heard of a few people who have ? took some cleaning and major stripdown but worth it ,
I live in England and I've heard of people starting a Lister CS just by grasping a flywheel with each hand and giving a good tug. With an engine in good condition it will fire as soon as the piston goes over compression. Of course the genuine ones have "Listard" chromium plated cylinders. I fear that all that cranking could be bad for ones health, maybe there was air in the fuel line or a leaking injector. Hopefully it will improve once it has been run-in. Consider colloidal graphite?
I can't imagine how discouraging this experience was. I hope most who see this video understand that a well tuned Lister CS or clone will normally start on a single compression stroke.
I WOULD BE CHECKING THE SPILL TIMING AS YOUR GETTING A GOOD REEKE OF WHITE SMOKE AND CHECK THE RACK BAR ON THE PUMP IS FULLY OPEN. BUT IT IS A COPY(POOR QUALITY CONTROL) AND YOU MAY HAVE TO CHECK VALVE TIMING AS WELL
@BOMAGBANDIT yes you are correct if all what you say all checks out ok check to see if cylinder is shimmed correct to give correct compression. it may be combination of things but i think most likely a timing err
To the Rough Running, maybe mismatch of crank and flywheels as can have a counter balanced crank OR flywheels but not both or neither
Hello there Folks.... Thanks for the vidclip..... I have read up quite a bit about the 'India' made engines.... Seems like some Folks import them with bore only rough machined undersize, totally strip the engine to remove all the casting sand residue and machining swarf. Then bore and HONE TO SIZE for correct clearance. This apparently make a big difference to the compression ratio and engine life. I hope this helps.... Keep well and geetings from New Zealand
My sympathies, I have a Ashwamegh 25/2. Hand starting it was difficult until I adapted a Chevrolet 350 engine flexplate and starter. I made an adapter flange on the lathe to fit the flexplate on the crankchaft, and welded up some channel and angle steel to hold the starter.
It's a hobby engine, true enough. I have powered the whole house with it during a week long power outage though. Nearly every aspect of this engine responds well to additional refinement. Good luck!
Great video brings back memories of starting the 32Volt lighting plant. I think I was first able to start our CS Lister when I was 10 years old, so you are working way too hard. Our technique was (1) use the valve on top to get to TDC having set the exh valve stop, (2) wind the compression boost knob right in (3) crank hard (4) remove the crank handle (we weren't allowed to leave the crank on), (5) trip the valve lever to let it start, (6) open comp boost knob right out after 1 min run time.
Hello, that is a hard starting cs but it isn't broken in yet. After it has 20 or so hours on it I'd bet it will fire straight off. As for the compression changeover valve, I haven't seen one on an Indian Listeroid.
Your setup looks nice. By watching you start the Lister, I thought that your fuel rail was on while you were cranking. When I start my 16/1, I get up speed, flip the fuel rail on and release the compression release. What size is your generator head? Thanks for sharing your videos. Robert
Yes I had the fuel rail on. I was trying various things to see what worked best. Flipping the fuel on after the compression release seems to work most of the time. I have a 6.6kW generator. I'll be posting my electric starter setup soon.
@worldvoyagers Hi, don't see the electric start video yet, you have that sorted? I saw a clip with an electric starter from a truck driving a small rubber wheel on the fly wheel, and also a small petrol engine doing the same duty, but then you may have two damn motors that give you a hard time.
Wow, that is way too hard to start... I have a 6/1 and it pops first time every time. It looks to me like you are NOT getting enough fuel. Enough to make smoke, but not enough to accelerate the engine significantly.
The yolk that connects the throttle linkage to the injector pump fuel rack could be binding. This could be preventing full throttle for startup. Try starting your lawn mower, snowblower, snowmobile on a cold morning without enough choke or prime, same theory...
I saw a neat start setup on youtube that used a starter motor with a rubber piece where the gear would be. It was mounted on a swivel platform that tilted the spinning rubber cylinder inward to contact the large green wheel when you stepped on a pedal. It was simple and effective. I may make one for mine. Look for the video....
Thanks for the follow up video, I wondered what happened to your listeroid after the first 2 videos. I have to agree that your setup is alot harder to start than my 12-1 powerline listeroid. Does yours have a compression valve on the side of the head? And was it screwed all of the way in? It looked like you may have had it out all the way out, by the way it was puffing. I just leave mine in all the time.
Very interesting, thanks for posting. But that's severely hard to start, wouldn't be too optimistic about getting it going on a really cold day. Can't help feeling that there's something amiss there. But definitely worth getting some sort of power start system on it, or enable it to start from a tractor pto or something.
I am using a 55 gallon drum, for convection cooling, which is in our greenhouse. I run a 12v bilge pump that forces the water from the tank through the engine before I try and start it. This will warm the Lister block from 10F to 50F in about 15 minutes. At present my son is designing an electric start arrangement using a rebuilt golf cart starter/generator . I'll be posting videos when it's up and running.
There must be something wrong, it should not be so reluctant on starting. My CS 3,5HP starts immediately after I release the decompression lever - even in frosty conditions - it's original Dursley product however. If I were you I would check the injection timing. Even a brand new Diesel engine will be difficult to start if the injection is too late. Good luck and Happy New Year!
I cant believe you went threw all of that Im not shure how you have all that set up. I work for caterpiller in the marine devision and I have seen belt driven pto pumps try to shake a 7000 pound engine off its mounts. if an engine is hard mounted the pto can be hard mounted. If an engine is on isolators the driven load must be conected to the same isolation. or the belt needs to be realy long just like the old machinery. I hope Im wrong about your prblem. I have seen this before. CHEERS WINDY NC
Generator and the engine were on the same rubber dampened frame originally, so there wasn't an issue with separate mountings. Had to be the different flywheel.
Not sure what you mean. The compression release on the exhaust valve is either on or off. I'm still playing with turning the fuel on well before I throw the compression release or doing it just before.
Usualy on these engines there is a wheel on the oposite side of the inlet/ exhaust, next to the water outlet. It is threaded and if you screw it in fully then it covers a small chamber in the head which raises the compression for starting.
This guy is crazy.
8redrover8 1 month ago
i have a 1951 6/1 lister dursley startomatic plant , the difference in the running is like day and night , the old british listers are pretty smooth , also did you find any casting sand in your engine , ive heard of a few people who have ? took some cleaning and major stripdown but worth it ,
stellakebab 3 months ago
Your IP timing could be off. Is it adjustable? Can you advance it a few degrees?
dieselworld 6 months ago
Put a real hot pug in her and give it good 3min to warm up then start it.
winfieldboys 7 months ago
if you get to 90 doing that!
mike8086 8 months ago
I live in England and I've heard of people starting a Lister CS just by grasping a flywheel with each hand and giving a good tug. With an engine in good condition it will fire as soon as the piston goes over compression. Of course the genuine ones have "Listard" chromium plated cylinders. I fear that all that cranking could be bad for ones health, maybe there was air in the fuel line or a leaking injector. Hopefully it will improve once it has been run-in. Consider colloidal graphite?
techdavey1000 10 months ago
wood love to see it under full load
gadget240200 11 months ago
Thank you for the update
WannaBEEfarmer 11 months ago
I can't imagine how discouraging this experience was. I hope most who see this video understand that a well tuned Lister CS or clone will normally start on a single compression stroke.
georgeutterpower 1 year ago 2
How about an air start system? I recall seeing a video on YT of a fella adapting one to his and it seemed to work great.
mdytmhgd 1 year ago
I WOULD BE CHECKING THE SPILL TIMING AS YOUR GETTING A GOOD REEKE OF WHITE SMOKE AND CHECK THE RACK BAR ON THE PUMP IS FULLY OPEN. BUT IT IS A COPY(POOR QUALITY CONTROL) AND YOU MAY HAVE TO CHECK VALVE TIMING AS WELL
BOMAGBANDIT 1 year ago
@BOMAGBANDIT ore the engine is cold dumb capslock fellow
robot797 1 year ago
@BOMAGBANDIT yes you are correct if all what you say all checks out ok check to see if cylinder is shimmed correct to give correct compression. it may be combination of things but i think most likely a timing err
To the Rough Running, maybe mismatch of crank and flywheels as can have a counter balanced crank OR flywheels but not both or neither
davev8app 7 months ago
To see a very smooth running lister, look for video with title:
Slow Speed Lister Diesel Engine under load at 460 1/min Einzylinderdieselmotor
birdwing98 1 year ago
Where are these engines made, I mean what country?
4freespeech 1 year ago
India
worldvoyagers 1 year ago
Hello there Folks.... Thanks for the vidclip..... I have read up quite a bit about the 'India' made engines.... Seems like some Folks import them with bore only rough machined undersize, totally strip the engine to remove all the casting sand residue and machining swarf. Then bore and HONE TO SIZE for correct clearance. This apparently make a big difference to the compression ratio and engine life. I hope this helps.... Keep well and geetings from New Zealand
kiwipotter 9 months ago
I feel worn out just watching that - must admit though after all that swinging it sure feels good to hear that engine fire up... Who needs a Gym? :-)
Bevoin1970 1 year ago
thats the funniest thing i ever saw!!! Thank god for electric starters ay?!!! LOL!!!
discocreator76 1 year ago
Your cat is cool. trying to hog the show.
ismasamov55 1 year ago
and this is why id rather have a modern engine..
IRONMAIDENFAN2006 1 year ago
Seems to me that it's slightly off time - advanced a little too much at low RPM.
Looks like it runs ok once you get it started though.
codifex 1 year ago
My sympathies, I have a Ashwamegh 25/2. Hand starting it was difficult until I adapted a Chevrolet 350 engine flexplate and starter. I made an adapter flange on the lathe to fit the flexplate on the crankchaft, and welded up some channel and angle steel to hold the starter.
It's a hobby engine, true enough. I have powered the whole house with it during a week long power outage though. Nearly every aspect of this engine responds well to additional refinement. Good luck!
SHIPCHIEF 1 year ago
Great video brings back memories of starting the 32Volt lighting plant. I think I was first able to start our CS Lister when I was 10 years old, so you are working way too hard. Our technique was (1) use the valve on top to get to TDC having set the exh valve stop, (2) wind the compression boost knob right in (3) crank hard (4) remove the crank handle (we weren't allowed to leave the crank on), (5) trip the valve lever to let it start, (6) open comp boost knob right out after 1 min run time.
PeterJTAus 1 year ago
Thanks for the interesting videos. If you figure out an electric start system, it will be interesting to see what you came up with.
gchenley 1 year ago
Thanks for the vid. Looks like you can cancel your gym membership.
philaheen 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
where and from what company did u purchase the engine?
00springfeature 1 year ago
where and from what company did u purchase the engine?
00springfeature 1 year ago
@00springfeature
Central Maine Diesel Bangor Maine
worldvoyagers 1 year ago
Hello, that is a hard starting cs but it isn't broken in yet. After it has 20 or so hours on it I'd bet it will fire straight off. As for the compression changeover valve, I haven't seen one on an Indian Listeroid.
Regards
scotty2307 2 years ago
Your setup looks nice. By watching you start the Lister, I thought that your fuel rail was on while you were cranking. When I start my 16/1, I get up speed, flip the fuel rail on and release the compression release. What size is your generator head? Thanks for sharing your videos. Robert
crash4me719 2 years ago
Hi Robert,
Yes I had the fuel rail on. I was trying various things to see what worked best. Flipping the fuel on after the compression release seems to work most of the time. I have a 6.6kW generator. I'll be posting my electric starter setup soon.
Phil
worldvoyagers 2 years ago
@worldvoyagers Hi, don't see the electric start video yet, you have that sorted? I saw a clip with an electric starter from a truck driving a small rubber wheel on the fly wheel, and also a small petrol engine doing the same duty, but then you may have two damn motors that give you a hard time.
MrJohann64 8 months ago
Wow, that is way too hard to start... I have a 6/1 and it pops first time every time. It looks to me like you are NOT getting enough fuel. Enough to make smoke, but not enough to accelerate the engine significantly.
The yolk that connects the throttle linkage to the injector pump fuel rack could be binding. This could be preventing full throttle for startup. Try starting your lawn mower, snowblower, snowmobile on a cold morning without enough choke or prime, same theory...
Good luck
rronmar 2 years ago
I saw a neat start setup on youtube that used a starter motor with a rubber piece where the gear would be. It was mounted on a swivel platform that tilted the spinning rubber cylinder inward to contact the large green wheel when you stepped on a pedal. It was simple and effective. I may make one for mine. Look for the video....
wess460 2 years ago
Thanks for the follow up video, I wondered what happened to your listeroid after the first 2 videos. I have to agree that your setup is alot harder to start than my 12-1 powerline listeroid. Does yours have a compression valve on the side of the head? And was it screwed all of the way in? It looked like you may have had it out all the way out, by the way it was puffing. I just leave mine in all the time.
wess460 2 years ago
Very interesting, thanks for posting. But that's severely hard to start, wouldn't be too optimistic about getting it going on a really cold day. Can't help feeling that there's something amiss there. But definitely worth getting some sort of power start system on it, or enable it to start from a tractor pto or something.
jix177 2 years ago
I am using a 55 gallon drum, for convection cooling, which is in our greenhouse. I run a 12v bilge pump that forces the water from the tank through the engine before I try and start it. This will warm the Lister block from 10F to 50F in about 15 minutes. At present my son is designing an electric start arrangement using a rebuilt golf cart starter/generator . I'll be posting videos when it's up and running.
worldvoyagers 2 years ago
Very innovative! Looking forward to seeing that, hope it all goes well.
jix177 2 years ago
There must be something wrong, it should not be so reluctant on starting. My CS 3,5HP starts immediately after I release the decompression lever - even in frosty conditions - it's original Dursley product however. If I were you I would check the injection timing. Even a brand new Diesel engine will be difficult to start if the injection is too late. Good luck and Happy New Year!
furkotek 2 years ago
I cant believe you went threw all of that Im not shure how you have all that set up. I work for caterpiller in the marine devision and I have seen belt driven pto pumps try to shake a 7000 pound engine off its mounts. if an engine is hard mounted the pto can be hard mounted. If an engine is on isolators the driven load must be conected to the same isolation. or the belt needs to be realy long just like the old machinery. I hope Im wrong about your prblem. I have seen this before. CHEERS WINDY NC
OBXSOLWIND 2 years ago
Generator and the engine were on the same rubber dampened frame originally, so there wasn't an issue with separate mountings. Had to be the different flywheel.
worldvoyagers 2 years ago
Nice Listeroid.
I can't help thinking that the trouble in starting was that you hadn't got the compression adjuster set to full for starting?
If it is then it should start first time everytime, nice CS though.
All the best,
Phill.
steamwally 2 years ago
Not sure what you mean. The compression release on the exhaust valve is either on or off. I'm still playing with turning the fuel on well before I throw the compression release or doing it just before.
worldvoyagers 2 years ago
Usualy on these engines there is a wheel on the oposite side of the inlet/ exhaust, next to the water outlet. It is threaded and if you screw it in fully then it covers a small chamber in the head which raises the compression for starting.
steamwally 2 years ago
Hi there!
Nice running engine when it finally starts but you cant beat the good old true british built ones made in Dursley!!
Cheers
Adam
cornishadz 2 years ago
Probably right. Nothing like having the real thing. Maybe the next one.....
worldvoyagers 2 years ago
Thanks for the update.
ne8r 2 years ago
Your welcome. Sorry it was so long getting posted.
worldvoyagers 2 years ago