Scuffy cell III part 1 10.86mmw (watch part2 also)

[scuffy44]

You are correct thru are small holes less than 1/8" in all the plates to allow water flow, to to miniumize electical leakage they are staggered back and forth. If you fill the cell from one end it takes 30 minutes for the water to reach the other end. No holes would be better but it compliacts refill. The epoxy is poured in three steps..bottom first then laying unit on its side each side is poured. there is 1/4" spacers (strips) on the bottom and sides to allow the epoxy to flow. epoxy 1/2" wide

[jeffmclowry]

I get the mathematics of the unit and the building etc. But one place I am confused, do the neutral plates have a hole in them to allow the water level to remain equal in all cells? or is this accomplished in another manner? And how are you applying the epoxy? Thanks! Jeff

[scuffy44]

Mike, Great working with you too! You are making some great strides..when I talked to Bob the first cells he made with ed holgate, the spacing was made sloppy to allow the fluid to equalize. He said with that they had to much current leakage. So they tightened the gap to the point that the last 6 plates had to be driven in with a hammer. Then he had to come up with the refill tube with 100 holes drilled to refill the cell due to the tightness of the fit. He told me the tighter the better

[mikepowers420]

Scuffy, the B.B. design calls for slots to mount the plates into. They should be able to move a fraction, so they can Ring when pulsed. Their phisicle movment when pulsed knocks the bubbles off the plate faces and also creates standing waves within the water between the plate faces. If you are worried about current leakage, the plate edges can be sealed with liquid acrilic, then installed into the slots. Anyway, it's a great looking cell, and a pleasure workin with you on the Hydroxy site.

[advancedhydrogen]

nice job i like the epoxy solution to the plate sealing.. have you tried to do the same with a dry cell design 60 plates using 8 by 8 or 6 by 6 plates 110VDC ?

[scuffy44]

@advancedhydrogen I have already done this with a dry cell config. I recommend 70 plates due to the rectified ac is about 140 volts dc. The hard part is finding a good 120v constant current controlled pwm Have tried a couple but they don't last long...thanks

[bhargavBbcr]

Hi Scuff ,  Your approach is novel in terms of cost saving ... Thanks a lot for sharing your ideas .

Can you please tell us what epoxy sealnt did you use and how you went about the whole plate sealing operation ? Can you give us insight into the Dimmer used for controlling voltage ? As you might have seen most of us use huge Variacs to control the voltage ... It was great to see a nice and small voltage controller...

[scuffy44]

the dimmer is made by Lutron 2000w model . It was about $80..the epoxy is used in the pro shop of bowling centers to plug bowling balls..I used 16 penny nails (1/8" in dia.) to space the plates the clamped them in the box before pouring. there is 1/4" spacer strips on the bottom and sides to hold the plates away from the sides for the epoxy to flow around and inbetween each plate. the expoxy ends up 1/2" thick . The bottom is pourd first..then each side..

[eggert631]

Thanks for posting your video's. Where do you buy the bridge rectifier, and how big was your capaciter?

[scuffy44]

no milling..I use an epoxy on the bottom and 2 sides 1/2" thick.....1/4" of the epoxy holds the plates;;;plates are clamped together with spacers and placed in the box with 1/4" strips of azek on bottom and sides..then epoxy is poured in bottom first then each side..try to find and epoxy with 160 degree or better temp. rating and acid resistant...

scuffy

[drumstick9000]

where can i get the plastic board you use for your walls?

[scuffy44]

It's called azek..I use the 1" thick boards..tried 3/4" but to much flex..most speciality wood shops carry it or check with a local builder/cintractor..it's a pvc board easy to work with..has a special glue and screws to put it together..

scuffy

[drumstick9000]

ok, so are you using a milling machine to cut grooves in the azek? or you using a glue to hold all the plates in place?

[altern8energy]

would having taller plates protect against the foam boiling over and shorting out the cell? instead of 6x6 plates, how about 12x6 or even 24x6? then when you overdrive the cell you won't have foam boiling over unless your water level is too high. you could also perhaps put some non-conductive mesh between the plates to keep the foam to a minimum..

[scuffy44]

overdriving the cell is basically applying more amps than the plates will handle. I have built quite a few cells and they all have there limitations. I have used 6x12 plates. It allows you to run higher amps for more production, but if you run the amps to high they will foam over also.

[altern8energy]

the amps don't ramp up until it foams over right?? the foaming over effect causes the cell to short out from what I've heard you say in the video. also, how do you fill the enclosure if you have no holes in the plates??

[EletrikRide]

Good design you have there, Scuffy. You made a good showing at the AEPC when I measured over 6MMW with this cell if I remember correctly. Good to meet you, BTW. I think if you get that foam issue resolved you will be up in the 7MMW range no problem. For me, 3MM seems to be perfect for keeping the foam down. This is the right idea - good current density, field alignment and good cell voltage control. Try using a variac as found on ebay - they are more efficient than that dimmer.

Peace!

[K1LLJ3W5]

I know you're designing for use in a truck, but I'm looking at building something bigger to power a propane 20+kW generator. I figure a 24" x 6" 63 plate system would generate a whole bunch of gas. Keep the water level about 6 inches below the top of the plates so that when you ramp up to 120v, the foam doesn't overflow and cause the shorting out of the cell.

[K1LLJ3W5]

unless it's an illusion, it doesn't look like all your plates are exactly spaced 1/8th inch apart. I would suggest you use a sheet of PVC on either side and have notches cut out in a precise way so all you have to do is slide the plates into the notches and whenever you need to replace a plate, just slide the plate(s) out. Just a thought. Good design overall.