Danke für das klare und verständliche Video. Mein erster selbstentwickelter Film hängt gerade im Bad. Die Bilder sind leider etwas 'dunkel' geworden, aber ich musste mit dem Waschsoda experimentieren, sprich: Backsoda durch erhitzen umwandeln in Waschsoda. Kann vielleicht daran gelegen haben.
Ich probiere auf jeden Fall weiter! Vielen Dank nochmals.
Wow, that's great! I remember staining my prints with coffee but that effect is so much nicer and has a lot more depth to it. My only question is, I imagine that after a while the coffee will stain the reels...will that affect the negatives when processed in regular b&w chemistry later on? Or is it better to use a separate tank & reels?
A little bit too much soap. Last time i used less than a half of the quantity of soap you used an I could find cords of soap on the dry negatives. Now I have to rinse them again in destilled water
@No1BRC I watched the video again and this time I took notice of your hint at the beginning of the film. You only have to watch carefully ;-) . But I guess your note at the end of the video made it clearer.
Hey, may I ask you if the coffee mixture can be reused? Should i add more coffee,soda and vitamin c or just forget about it and start all over again? Oh and since I'm new to film developing could you please tell me if i should add more fixer to the used fixture-water mixture or just reuse it as it is?Many thanks! (:
Caffenol is a One-time Developer. You just use it for one film and then you need
to dispose it.
To the 2nd:
Fixer can be used again and again. After some time check if it's still OK by putting
a piece of undeveloped and exposed film into the fixer- wait until the film is cleared and double the time- that's your fixing time. If it takes more than 2 minutes to clear, get a new fixer.Don't mix used and fresh fixer.
im just curious, what would happen if you use colour negatives instead? is it possible to scan b/w negatives(or colour neg) with the same method as colour negs? because many shops somehow dont develop and scan b/w film in singapore! and if they do its pretty expensive, which is really weird seeing as i think b/w film is the easiest to develop?
you can develop color neg film in caffenol. What you'll get is a b/w neg since only the b/w layer is affected. However the orange layer will still remain and so you'll get a strong orange/yellowish tint- but still "scanable" though.
I guess nowadays it's rather a cost-effective problem since there is not much demand anymore for b/w film to be developed in shops- even less than color film.
So that might be a problem: running two different developing units at the same time (developing machines do also the scanning and printing). You're right, B/W dev is less critical than color for sure.
actually, a good film tank is an investment for many years of developing. I really recommend a two-film tank as you can fill a bit more developer in it and get sure you get an even developing... I think you can get a good film tank 2nd hand or maybe your school has a few and you can use them? I did it at school ;D
Unfortunately, I don't know about a successful attempt on making a good homemade fixer:(
ah :( well the tank is just for school, since we are using it for my photog club :/ so no haha none in school!
lol no homemad fixer D: i guess i'll have to get both online:(
i heard that you had to buy chemicals in bulk and i dont want tat ( seeing as i can reuse the fixer) so.. is it possible to get it in slightly smaller amount D: would you know anywhere i could get it? and about how much are they (for the dev tank too!)
Hi, it depends on the film you use. If it's apx400 then the online "massive dev chart" (link provided in the descriptionbox right above) suggests 10minutes @20°C. But you need to test out a few times to find the perfect dev time with caffenol.
2 questions: how about durability of this method (can you tell how it works without silver and standard developers?). Then: do you now any method to produce negatives and fine art quality paper without animal gelatine?
thanks for your comment. The durability of the negatives should be just as well as with other developers because it works the same way("reducer"). The easiest method I know to make printing paper without gelatine is to make cyano prints(google search for: alternativephotography). However-they need very long exposure times and so are rather contact printing papers or maybe used in a camera obscura(which gets you neg. prints of course).I don't know any other method without gelatine,sorry.
My sister had photography courses in college and when I told her this method, she got that evil cientist look on her face :-D
Unfortunately, I can't find sodium carbonate, but got some math done and 2 grams of lye in 5 liters of distilled water will provide a pH around 12.6, which is somewhat close to commercial developers.
One thing I learned myself is to gently stir the coffee. I shook it up in a juice bottle and I could not get rid of the bubbles.... The recipe I used was almost Identical, except 1/2 tsp of vitamin C not 1/4. Your video is excellent. I was thinking of making my own as I do some film production now and then, but I see I don't need to now. Which is great. I have very little time on my hands myself.
I just developed some Ilford HP5 in caffenol the other day and it turned out great. I wasn't timeing the agitations as I was busy doing some dark room clean up so I kept it in the soup for 25min. The results were great except for frames that were underexposed. And I mean brutally underexposed. I'm not sure if 25 minutes was too long. The negs show a fair bit of fog but from a little google research, it may be normal? I didn't see your video till just now.
The coffee indeed gives the b/w negs a toning. In my opinion it's really pretty and more natural than one you would get through photoshop when digitalizing.
It's a b/w developer and therefore not able to develop with color neg. However- of course you could develop color film as b/w film and get the b/w layer. But then you need to use a photographic chemical bleach to clear the color layers to see the b/w layer.
20minutes is not the standard dev. time for apx. It is a time me and other together figured out a good time for that film.
However, looking at the massive dev. chart there no time for hp5+. But Ilford seems to work really well with caffenol(my experience)- so I would go for the Rodinal 1+50 time and maybe just add 1-2 minutes@ 20°C.
the beginning is so clever! this video is so wonderful and informative without being boring.. it's the first time i can think of where i turned my computer's sound down to hear the video..usually it's the other way around :P thank you so much, i'm really looking forward to your future photography vids and photos :)
i,m impressed!Nice way to develop.when you have more tricks,show us...then we can rescue the world with a little bit less of all that chemicals....thanx...
Heyyy how much does everything cost?
monsiehalides 2 months ago
@monsiehalides
Hehe, well I don't know exactly how much. But all the ingredients(sufficient for many many films) might be around 5-6€ incl. fixer?
~Danish
No1BRC 2 months ago
Are the photos brown because you used coffee? Or is that an effect you added?
filmdexter 2 months ago
@filmdexter
Hey, this mostly due to the coffee and also some randomness during scanning.
But overall it gives a tint.
greetings,
~Dan
No1BRC 2 months ago
that's AWESOME! thanks for the tip!
meminesis 3 months ago
@meminesis
thx, glad you like it.
~Dan
No1BRC 3 months ago
Thx a lot to share it.
caiobasilio 3 months ago
@caiobasilio
my pleasure :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 3 months ago
Awsome! We still gonna have Photography after December 23, 2012! Nice job and thanx, guys!
TxeloAndrade 3 months ago 2
@TxeloAndrade
lol, for sure :D
-Dan
No1BRC 3 months ago
Hi there,
would it be possible to have a printable pdf of the entire process? It would be very nice for a newbie like me to follow your instructions.
Best regards.
sanric77 3 months ago in playlist Preferiti di sanric77
@sanric77
Hey,
please have a look at the description box, there's a link to a pdf file :-)
Hope it helps.
greetings,
Dan
No1BRC 3 months ago
if i replace coffee with tea(maybe greentea) does it work???and gets some greenish photos
?
g0414382 4 months ago
@g0414382
I didn't try tea instead of coffee since a few friends tried it already and their results weren't satisfiying.
It does work though but none of them got constant results and it's rather weak compared to caffenol.
~Dan
No1BRC 4 months ago
@No1BRC
thx, really a nice vid
looking forward to watching more clips about developing films =)
g0414382 4 months ago
@g0414382
Thanks much :-)
I really hope to add some new video soon...
~Dan
No1BRC 4 months ago
Excellent video . . . not rushed. Music is icing on the cake. Thank you for posting.
sgit1 4 months ago
@sgit1
Thanks so much :-)
Glad you enjoyed the video.
~Dan
No1BRC 4 months ago
Does this way of developing the negatives stain them, and give them a sepia tone to them, or does it not?
Thanks!!!
- Alex
silexrifl 8 months ago
@silexrifl
Hi,
yes, it's a staining developer and you'll get a sepia toning if you
color scan it.
yours,
Dan
No1BRC 8 months ago
Danke für das klare und verständliche Video. Mein erster selbstentwickelter Film hängt gerade im Bad. Die Bilder sind leider etwas 'dunkel' geworden, aber ich musste mit dem Waschsoda experimentieren, sprich: Backsoda durch erhitzen umwandeln in Waschsoda. Kann vielleicht daran gelegen haben.
Ich probiere auf jeden Fall weiter! Vielen Dank nochmals.
timokl 8 months ago
@timokl
Freut mich, dass Du Spaß daran hast :-)
Viel spaß beim Experimentieren.
gruß,
Dan
No1BRC 8 months ago
Wuhuw gerade den ersten Film entwickelt *stolz*
Sieht wirklich fein aus, ist nicht einmal Braun :)
TheAntStatus 10 months ago
@TheAntStatus
Freut mich :-)
Viel Spaß noch,
Dan
No1BRC 10 months ago
Wow, that's great! I remember staining my prints with coffee but that effect is so much nicer and has a lot more depth to it. My only question is, I imagine that after a while the coffee will stain the reels...will that affect the negatives when processed in regular b&w chemistry later on? Or is it better to use a separate tank & reels?
fangy89 10 months ago
@fangy89
Hey thanks! That's a good point. I have a few processing tanks and used one for caffenol only.
However, I'm pretty sure that in between I have mixed them up by accident ;D but I did not face any problems.
If you have a few tanks- then I still recommend one for caffenol only, just to be sure :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 10 months ago
Great video! Thanks.
funkrusher 10 months ago
@funkrusher
Glad you like it :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 10 months ago
Can i develop color negatives too?
TheAntStatus 11 months ago
@TheAntStatus
Hey,
yes, you can develop color negs.
Though you have to consider that the orange film layer remains- so you hardly can make any dark room prints.
But you still can scan it and then produce "digital" prints.
~Dan
No1BRC 11 months ago
@No1BRC Thanks :D im glad to hear this.
TheAntStatus 11 months ago
@TheAntStatus
Gerne doch :)
No1BRC 11 months ago
@No1BRC wtf man kann die negative einfach auf ein normalen scanner legen? abfotografieren ist ziemlich umständlich..
TheAntStatus 10 months ago
@TheAntStatus
Du brauchst einen Scanner mit Durchlichteinheit(preiswert und annehmbare Qualität) oder eben nen Diascanner(sehr gute Resultate, teuer)
No1BRC 10 months ago
where can i get the fixer
jonathanrr1 1 year ago
@jonathanrr1
Hi, in the US, you can get it eg. at bhphotovideo or adorama.
You can use any black and white fixer btw
~Dan.
No1BRC 1 year ago
@No1BRC also does it work for 120mm film?
jonathanrr1 1 year ago
@jonathanrr1
Sure, it works very well :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
I tried it today for my first time. I used Rollei Retro 100. The result was marvellous!! Thanks for this video.
Maxfahrer 1 year ago
@Maxfahrer
I really appreciate :-)
Viel Spaß noch weiterhin :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
great! what film did u use?
does it work with tri-x 400 and delta 400 too?
sotto235 1 year ago
@sotto235
Thanks :) It's Agfa APX 100 as stated at the title ;D
I don't know about the Delta 400 but Tri-x 400 works fine: 35 minutes dev time.
Have fun,
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
Excellent tutorial, thank you very much!
AluminumStudios 1 year ago
@AluminumStudios
Thank YOU- for the nice comment :-)
I know you from flickr btw :-)
Hope you'll have much fun.
yours,
Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
What kind of liquid soap, does it matter?
MrGhotiify 1 year ago
@MrGhotiify
No, it doesn't matter- use any you get. :-)
Diluted dish liquid works fine, too.
You just need some kind of soap to get the water drain off the film surface.
Greetings,
Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
A little bit too much soap. Last time i used less than a half of the quantity of soap you used an I could find cords of soap on the dry negatives. Now I have to rinse them again in destilled water
Maxfahrer 1 year ago
@Maxfahrer
Thanks for your note.
And it was my failure- I thought it was obvious enough on the video that I dilluted the liquid soap pretty much.
I added a note.
Thanks again,
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
@No1BRC I watched the video again and this time I took notice of your hint at the beginning of the film. You only have to watch carefully ;-) . But I guess your note at the end of the video made it clearer.
Maxfahrer 1 year ago
@Maxfahrer
lol, you're welcome :D
To be honest, I forgot that I mentioned it already at the beginning
of the video ;)
No1BRC 1 year ago
Very helpful. Thank you very much!
cedarivor 1 year ago
@cedarivor
thx- hope you'll have fun :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
Hey, may I ask you if the coffee mixture can be reused? Should i add more coffee,soda and vitamin c or just forget about it and start all over again? Oh and since I'm new to film developing could you please tell me if i should add more fixer to the used fixture-water mixture or just reuse it as it is?Many thanks! (:
gegogegorio 1 year ago
@gegogegorio
Hi and thx for your comment :-)
To your first question:
Caffenol is a One-time Developer. You just use it for one film and then you need
to dispose it.
To the 2nd:
Fixer can be used again and again. After some time check if it's still OK by putting
a piece of undeveloped and exposed film into the fixer- wait until the film is cleared and double the time- that's your fixing time. If it takes more than 2 minutes to clear, get a new fixer.Don't mix used and fresh fixer.
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
@No1BRC Thank you for your prompt reply! Just woke up and was unpatient to develop another film!
gegogegorio 1 year ago
@gegogegorio
You're welcome- have fun :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
To those wondering about the music:
The music in this video sounds like its based off a jazz sample (the flute riff).
It may be a hip-hop instrumental or reggae/dancehall riddim.
rjherie 1 year ago
@rjherie
Hey thx for mentioning :-)
Btw, the composer of the music is credited at the end.
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
Very nice photos!
I'd like to try this too.
But, Where can I buy fixer?
ierapostolos22 1 year ago
@ierapostolos22
Hi and thanks :-)
You can use any fixer you get.
E.g Kodak or Ilford Rapid Fixer should be widely available or
can be shipped to your country. I just googled and found ipmart(dot)com - maybe that works out for you.
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
you are mr photo!! it's a eco- developing film! perfect!
MrLindus 1 year ago
@MrLindus
thanks so much for your nice comment :)
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
Thats actually kinda cool of how because coffee is a bit brown your photos are in white and brown.
TheZachadoodle 1 year ago
@TheZachadoodle
Hey thanks. I also like the tint :) It gives a unique character
to the photos.
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
woooooooooooooow! i will surely try this out!
Fleurletta 1 year ago
@Fleurletta
Haha, thanks :)
You definitely should try this-it's a lot of fun.
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
where do u get the container for da filmz?
MySonu12 1 year ago
@MySonu12
You should get it at any photographic accessories store.
In the US e.g. adorama and b&h offer film tanks.
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
where you get washing soda?? my lenguage is not english so im a bit confused... is that for clothes wasing?? XDD
carlosSANtkd 1 year ago
@carlosSANtkd
Hey Carlos :-) ,
yes, it's just sodium carbonate- the stuff you can wash clothes with :-)
You should get it in any drugstore.
Don't mix up with sodium bicarbonate- that's baking powder.
regards,
Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
Oh also if you want to use caffenol to develop colour film do you have to change the time or the formula or anything?
psychodelicwalrus 1 year ago
@psychodelicwalrus
Yes, dev times vary from film to film and you need to find out
the best dev times. However, you don't need to alter the formula
for color neg film.
No1BRC 1 year ago
Can you use oxyclean in place of the washing soda?
psychodelicwalrus 1 year ago
@psychodelicwalrus
Oxyclean seems to consist mostly of natriumhydrogencarbonat- which
is actually baking soda and that will not work.
No1BRC 1 year ago
hello!
im just curious, what would happen if you use colour negatives instead? is it possible to scan b/w negatives(or colour neg) with the same method as colour negs? because many shops somehow dont develop and scan b/w film in singapore! and if they do its pretty expensive, which is really weird seeing as i think b/w film is the easiest to develop?
kidinheart 1 year ago
@kidinheart (nice screen name btw ;))
Hey :-),
you can develop color neg film in caffenol. What you'll get is a b/w neg since only the b/w layer is affected. However the orange layer will still remain and so you'll get a strong orange/yellowish tint- but still "scanable" though.
I guess nowadays it's rather a cost-effective problem since there is not much demand anymore for b/w film to be developed in shops- even less than color film.
No1BRC 1 year ago
So that might be a problem: running two different developing units at the same time (developing machines do also the scanning and printing). You're right, B/W dev is less critical than color for sure.
cheers,
Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
haha! screen name is random~
anyway, oh tats really interesting, haha how budget could i go? :O is there a replacement for the film reel thingy? haha
or a replacement for the fixer?
mm would i be right to say tat the scanning of BW is the same as scanning of colour, hence i can have a shop scan the film for me?
kidinheart 1 year ago
@kidinheart
Hey :-)
actually, a good film tank is an investment for many years of developing. I really recommend a two-film tank as you can fill a bit more developer in it and get sure you get an even developing... I think you can get a good film tank 2nd hand or maybe your school has a few and you can use them? I did it at school ;D
Unfortunately, I don't know about a successful attempt on making a good homemade fixer:(
No1BRC 1 year ago
The good thing is: fixer is rather cheap and can be used again and again. And powder fixer is cheaper than ready-to-use ones.
Yes, it shouldn't be a problem for a shop to scan b/w film. However, caffenol produces a tint but that shouldn't be a problem either.
Better ask them before.
Good luck ;D,
Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
ah :( well the tank is just for school, since we are using it for my photog club :/ so no haha none in school!
lol no homemad fixer D: i guess i'll have to get both online:(
i heard that you had to buy chemicals in bulk and i dont want tat ( seeing as i can reuse the fixer) so.. is it possible to get it in slightly smaller amount D: would you know anywhere i could get it? and about how much are they (for the dev tank too!)
kidinheart 1 year ago
@kidinheart
I sent you a pm
No1BRC 1 year ago
can you develop paper with this...? vielen dank!
factoriamuzak 1 year ago
Hey :-)
Yes you can. Try 200ml water, 3 1/2 tsp coffee crystals, 2 tsp washing soda, 1/2 tsp Vit C.
beste Grüße,
~Dan
No1BRC 1 year ago
HI! I am gonna develop black and white film with advised method but i have ISO400. Can you advise me developing time??
complimenty 1 year ago
@complimenty
Hi, it depends on the film you use. If it's apx400 then the online "massive dev chart" (link provided in the descriptionbox right above) suggests 10minutes @20°C. But you need to test out a few times to find the perfect dev time with caffenol.
Good Luck :-) !!
No1BRC 1 year ago
Hi, congrat for your video!
2 questions: how about durability of this method (can you tell how it works without silver and standard developers?). Then: do you now any method to produce negatives and fine art quality paper without animal gelatine?
Thank you!
UAAR1 1 year ago
@UAAR1
thanks for your comment. The durability of the negatives should be just as well as with other developers because it works the same way("reducer"). The easiest method I know to make printing paper without gelatine is to make cyano prints(google search for: alternativephotography). However-they need very long exposure times and so are rather contact printing papers or maybe used in a camera obscura(which gets you neg. prints of course).I don't know any other method without gelatine,sorry.
No1BRC 1 year ago
lol i luv ur vid!
lol why do you have a white hand and a taned hand?
(i'll send u my results when i do this with ur recepie for caffenol)
Ponnybit 2 years ago
@Ponnybit
lol, by now they're tanned evenly ;)
looking forward to see your results!
No1BRC 2 years ago
This is an awesome video, very well made!
My sister had photography courses in college and when I told her this method, she got that evil cientist look on her face :-D
Unfortunately, I can't find sodium carbonate, but got some math done and 2 grams of lye in 5 liters of distilled water will provide a pH around 12.6, which is somewhat close to commercial developers.
Thanks for the vid!
strikeronetuber 2 years ago 2
@strikeronetuber
Thanks a lot for your nice and very useful comment :-)
It's great to hear your idea about using lye instead of sodium carbonate!!
Hope you and your sister will have fun by using caffenol :-)
Yours,
Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
fixer here costs like 30 USD 500ml .. i know u can reuse but with 30 eur i can develop 30 rolls (36 exp)
its 1 eur for 36 negatives.
but i so want to do this :( i love analog photography
Ponnybit 2 years ago
@Ponnybit
30,- $ for a fixer??
I recommend a powder fixer which you have to mix by your own.
They are a bit cheaper than the liquid-ready to use ones I've seen.
..but never saw them that expensive.
Here, a pack powder "calbe a300" for 1ltr costs like 2-3 euros.
No1BRC 2 years ago
This is awesome! :) Thank YOU
Videotutorials can often be more entertaining than reading :) And this video is simply great! :)
Do you know if the negatives will last for long using this method?
fatstevens 2 years ago
@fatstevens
Thanks so much :)
So far I haven't heard anything bad about the durability of the negatives.
Mine, which I kept at the same conditions as my standard developed negs and slides(dark+film sleeves) are still in good conditions after one year.
Make sure you stop and fix well, then I think they should last just as long as developed normally.
yours,
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
What kind of vitamin C do you use? If it's pills, should I crush them up?
BadAndy10 2 years ago
Hey, I use ascorbic acid powder.
Sure, you can use pills and should crush
them so they'll dissolve better.
Just make sure- they're 100% ascorbic acid pills.
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
Thanks, yo!
BadAndy10 2 years ago
You're welcome :-)
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
Thank you mate! This "could" be idiot-proof...Hmmm...maybe I'll try...
Well done! Really!
fragmaster1960 2 years ago
Thank YOU, for the comment :)
The whole process isn't really critical so
don't hesitate and start to experiment, mate :D
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
great work..really well made and of great help to an idiot like myself..
cheers
antiochus66 2 years ago
Haha, glad this video was helpful :)
And hey, you aren't/weren't an idiot and since you've watched my
videos- you even proved that ;D
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
Nice music and tutorial! I can't get Calbe A300, but is it posible to use other fixers? [sorry I'm new in developing film]
nobrainnobrain69 2 years ago
Thanks a lot :-)
And sure, any fixer will work.
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
Love the video. Very clear on every point.
But the music, havn't I heard it in some other movies?? ;) ;)
//Björn
ericofonen 2 years ago
Hey thanks :-)
I'm pretty sure this is a famous music clip... and I hope this kind of stuff comes bigger in the music industry :D
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
there are 2 vitamin C powder I could find. Calcium ascorbate and ascorbic acid. Which one should I use?
mayavania 2 years ago
Only use ascorbic acid. Calcium ascorbate is a mixture of calcium and ascorbic acid and therefore less acid.
It's better for your digestive tract... but not recommendable for caffenol ;DD
No1BRC 2 years ago
is that film sepia? - the photos look like they turned out yellowish brown like sepia. And is that home brand washing soda you're using?
jclspedding 2 years ago
Hi,
Agfa APX is a popular but normal b/w film.
The tint you see is due to the coffee, as caffenol
is a tinting developer :-)
It's normal washing soda(Sodium carbonate)
you should get in any drugstore.
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
One thing I learned myself is to gently stir the coffee. I shook it up in a juice bottle and I could not get rid of the bubbles.... The recipe I used was almost Identical, except 1/2 tsp of vitamin C not 1/4. Your video is excellent. I was thinking of making my own as I do some film production now and then, but I see I don't need to now. Which is great. I have very little time on my hands myself.
Cheers!
superiordirk 2 years ago
Thanks a lot for your great comments, Dirk. Glad you like it.
With ilford film I'd look on dev times with Rodinal(1+50) and add a few minutes.
As Vit C acts like a booster try to lower its amount, too.
So maybe a dev time around 15mins and some less vit c might reduce
fog.
regards,
Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
I thought that Vit C was supposed to act as a restrainer, washing soda being a strong base and ascorbic acid being an acid.
ebwje 2 years ago
Hi,
actually, Vitamin C and Ascorbic acid are the same thing. It's called Vit C as nutrient and ascorbic acid chemically.
At the caffenol process Vit C is given into the mixture to shorten the dev time which would be otherwise way longer.
Perhaps you're refering to "citric acid" which can be used as a stop? - that's something different.
greetings,
Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
I just developed some Ilford HP5 in caffenol the other day and it turned out great. I wasn't timeing the agitations as I was busy doing some dark room clean up so I kept it in the soup for 25min. The results were great except for frames that were underexposed. And I mean brutally underexposed. I'm not sure if 25 minutes was too long. The negs show a fair bit of fog but from a little google research, it may be normal? I didn't see your video till just now.
superiordirk 2 years ago
You Rules Man!
xtr4boy 2 years ago
Haha, thx much, bro!
~Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
Really great edit and build, I'm stoked to try it out!
wish medium format scanners were cheaper.
keep up the good work!
zoewut 2 years ago
Thanks a lot, Zoe!
I'll really try to make another video
on this topic.
Best regards,
Dan
No1BRC 2 years ago
do you have any recommendations for developing 120? Is this possible?
Also, as I'm new to this process, is there a fixer involved, or is it all in the caffenol mixture?
Thanks for the vid.
fencinggoldie 2 years ago
Hey :-) , sure- no problems developing 120 b/w film as I already did it :-)
Yes, you need a fixer... unfortunately there's no good DIY fixer.
But you can re-use that stuff very often and it's the cheapest chemical at b/w processing.
No1BRC 2 years ago
I was wondering, does the coffee stain the negatives its color? Can you develop color or b&w and be clear?
jacobomg 2 years ago
Thx for your comment.
The coffee indeed gives the b/w negs a toning. In my opinion it's really pretty and more natural than one you would get through photoshop when digitalizing.
It's a b/w developer and therefore not able to develop with color neg. However- of course you could develop color film as b/w film and get the b/w layer. But then you need to use a photographic chemical bleach to clear the color layers to see the b/w layer.
Better: Just use some cheap b/w film :)
Have fun!
No1BRC 2 years ago
thanks. i have a darkroom at school and can probably borrow some fixer from there.
fencinggoldie 2 years ago
when you say 20min is the time for agfa apx 100, is that the same as it would be for standard chemicals? or is that a number found somewhere else?
i'm trying to do this same procedure, but using ilford hp5+ 400 film.
Theradracket717 3 years ago
Hey,
20minutes is not the standard dev. time for apx. It is a time me and other together figured out a good time for that film.
However, looking at the massive dev. chart there no time for hp5+. But Ilford seems to work really well with caffenol(my experience)- so I would go for the Rodinal 1+50 time and maybe just add 1-2 minutes@ 20°C.
Please share your results :-)
No1BRC 3 years ago
the beginning is so clever! this video is so wonderful and informative without being boring.. it's the first time i can think of where i turned my computer's sound down to hear the video..usually it's the other way around :P thank you so much, i'm really looking forward to your future photography vids and photos :)
qiput 3 years ago
Thanks so much for your wonderful comment :-)
I'm really eager about making new videos. I already have some concepts and will try to realize them really soon.
Best regards,
Dan
No1BRC 3 years ago
i,m impressed!Nice way to develop.when you have more tricks,show us...then we can rescue the world with a little bit less of all that chemicals....thanx...
maxpin63 3 years ago
I really appreciate, Max.
I'm planning to make another video about making prints with this mixture.
I wish I can do it soon, but was short in time, lately :(
Best regards,
Dan
No1BRC 3 years ago
some items passed by a bit too fast ;)
sniggy 3 years ago
very nice results, butu shouldnt the 1st steps be done in the dark?
skiptracer65 3 years ago
Thank you.
I put that red mark left saying these steps have to be done in the dark.
Guess, it's not easy to read... sorry :-)
No1BRC 3 years ago
no just missed it the 1st time through xD
im off to have my glasses checked now :-)
skiptracer65 3 years ago