Just a curious question as I was told this when I had the brakes done at Midas on my truck. They say you should have brand new rotors turned to make sure they are not warped. You did not do that with the new rotor in this video. What is your opinion on this suggestion?
I forgot to mention on my post to part 2, we highly recommend washing new or turned rotor with soap and water. Once they dry, then condition rotor with the OE Approved Silencer rotor spray. It treats rotor so speed of new pad burnish is slowed down and heat is better controlled. Finally, paint the inside of rotor hat or spindle face with our OE Approved Pastelub 2400 moly, graphite, aluminum paste. The procedure is at... Stop Brake Noise. com. Thanks, Gary
Thank you very much Eric, I could see everything you were doing, and I really liked the new tool trick as well. Be a single mom doing my own brake job was already costlessly enough without having to purchase YET another tool to finish a job. Wonderful job. Thank you so much.
how did you make your bleeder reservoir ? and i tried to change the breaks on my buddys 2003 buick lesbare and all of the caliper bolts were seized i tried wd-40 anti rust everything, and i don't have a torch what else can i do to unseize the bolt
@PoliceWillProtect That's a tough one because you really want to avoid heating them because you could damage the caliper or other components, you might try and air hammer with a pointed bit to 'impact' it off, it really just depends on what you have there and without seeing it for myself it's hard to say unfortunately. Good luck.
..... so i took the caliper bracket to a honda shop down the street and he freed up the seized slide bolt and it all went back together in a breeze. simple!
i have a problem. got the piston pushed back in with the edge of a wrench, then i put it all back together, but the little top squishy thing that allows the caliper to move side to side is jammed, completely seized. i've taken it apart and pounded it with a hammer and it absolutely will not budge. gonna see if i need to replace it or if it's possible to fix, which i am doubting at this point.
damn... sorry about the multiple posts, it gave me an error when I tired to comment but I didn't think it would post the same comment over and over..again.. I apologize.
Now.. my question..... are the caliper brackets on my car bad? i can get the new pads on, even with the piston all the way back, the caliper brackets have the rubber boots on them, are those parts suppost to move? mine don't move at all, thanks for the help.
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
great videos.... big fan! two questions, how much would you charge me for one of those caliper tools? :)
And the other one..... I watched all your brake videos, and I don't think i seen one on how to bed in the new brakes, that's kind of important on new brakes right?
@flaco198111 I don't sell those tools so you'll have to make your own. You are correct that it is recommended that you seat in the new pads, usually about 30 stops from 30mph from what I remember, I probably should mention that at some point, thanks for pointing that out.
Great job on these videos. I need to replace front and rear brake pads on a 2006 Honda Odyssey. Is the piston compression tool required or can I use a large C-clamp and an old pad to return the piston to a flush position?
@analogkidz Not on some rear pads, I actually covered that in the video you might want to go back and re-watch the series or the full length version of this video.
Great video Eric really informative, you explain everything in detail without getting overly technical, which is awesome for a beginner like me. Big thumbs up for hitting the middle mark on brake job vids. Not tooo brief and not tooo technical... Thanks bud
Greetings. If I may I have a question to ask you not related to your videos. I would like to know if you may tell me how you made your videos and how you upload them into you tube. I would like to put some mathematical lectures in YouTube. I have never done this and need some help and tutoring. Do I need to buy a camera or can I use the camera that my computer already has. Do I need assistance or can I do it alone. And whatever other advice you may have for me. Thank you
@192ali1 There are actually a variety of how to video posted on YouTube on that very subject including ones made by YouTube, I suggest you watch those videos as they will give you specific answers to your questions. Good luck.
Just watched the video prior to changing the pads in my 94 Accord EX(F22B1). It was cake, thanks to you. I only discovered your channel a couple days ago and after watching your videos I feel more confident in tackling some of the things I was hesitant to do. Thank you so much, Dude! It's nice to know there are still decent humans left in this world! God Bless!
@EricTheCarGuy The manual said to replace the lock pins connecting the e-brake to the caliper. I used the same ones and a new cotter pin. WIll that be okay? Also, the screws holding the rotor to the hub were missing? Are they super important?
@EricTheCarGuy Awesome! Thanks. I actually tackled a fuel filter replacement and it went quite well. As always those Honda engineers put them in the worst spot to get to. Do I have a way making a donation to you through your website?
@kobevsjordan310 If it was the one under the master cylinder on an Accord those are actually suppose to be lifetime filters and do not get replaced on a regular basis as a result. There is a 'donate' button on the 'fix it' page of my website, thanks in advance if you decide to make a donation.
Excellent Video. The rear pistons on a 1998 Sable are twisties also. A real P.I.T.A. to turn back flush with the caliper housing. The top slide pin was frozen solid, so the piston had turned all of the way out. I did not know that they continue to turn, once thay are seated. Thanks for the advice. Kudos ! Rich
Damn Eric your tool is light years better than the crappy store bought tool. It's a wonder why they haven't marketed a tool like yours specifically for Hondas
Just finished replacing all discs and pads on my Integra Type-R DC2, i got the confidence from your videos, thank you! I ran into some problems though, hope you can help me again :)
1. The rear brake pads did not have the pin that should fit into the slot on the piston, is that a problem?
2. I could not use the locating screws that hold the rear discs, the holes where at another location. Is it okay without them?
3. My handbrake has more travel than before, so i have to readjust, is that normal?
@GrandDanois Sounds like you used cheep pads, not the best idea with that car in my opinion. As for the screw holes they are offset so try relocating the rotor as you install it on the hub to line up the screw holes, if it doesn't line up after this you also have some pretty cheep rotors, also not recommended. You don't need the screws. As for your parking brake if it is different after you did the work you may have caused a problem inadvertently, resist adjusting it look for the cause first.
@EricTheCarGuy - Thanks. It may be "cheap" parts, the Integra is only sold 25 times in denmark, so i bought what i could get. I've driven with these brakes a few days now and no problems so far. As for the handbrake, google found some information for me. Apparently it sometimes happens when changing the rear pads, so the self adjusting system needs to be reset. To do this you loosen the handbrake cable until the arm on the caliper hits the stop pin, and then readjust. Worked for me!
Hey Eric what would youdo as far as machining a rotor without a lathe if needed and the customer couldn't afford rotors? Would you do anything to them or leave them alone if they were smooth?
hey eric, i was told that if I were to flush the brake fluid out and replenished it with new brake fluid at all 4 wheels I would need a special tool to communicate with the ABS system so it doesn't malfunction. Is that true or false?
Do you use OEM brake pads? If not, what brand of brake pads do you recommend? When you replace the rotors, what brand to do you recommend for them? How long does it usually take for a rotor to reach its minimum thickness? Thanks for the feedback.
@aaronac8 Depends on the vehicle, some aftermarket parts are actually the OE supplier so with some pads you can get OE parts without the markup. As for rotors just don't go too cheep as they can be a problem. I will say this, the most common complaint with cheep brakes is noise, you can go a long way to prevent that using the techniques in this video but the rest is up to the parts, if you do all this and still have noise it's probably the parts that are at fault.
Do rotors need to be machined or replaced every time you replace the brake pads? Also, any way to stop brake squeaking only in the am when backing out of my driveway after the car has sat outside overnight?
@aaronac8 No they don't, in fact most manufacturers just recommend replacement of the pads when doing a brake job. If you don't have any issues with brake pulsation then I would just replace the pads. If you service the brake as shown in the video using the correct lubricants in the correct places it goes a long way toward eliminating noise, the rest is really up to the pads you use, usually cheeper pads make noise in my experience.
@aaronac8 Personally I don't do that but I've seen it done in an attempt to reduce noise. I feel that if you use a quality pad installed correctly noise should not be an issue.
@whitetrashgangsta4 I've actually done a series of videos on being a mechanic on my other channel ETCG1, you might want to check those out. Thanks for watching and your comment.
I have 1996 Acura Integra and my car makes this scraping noise when i use the brakes the sound is coming from the rear left brakes i thought it was my pads but it wasn't they were like new when i checked but the rotor were rusted pretty bad do you think its the rotor and if i changed it would the sound go away?
Love the videos!! Keep them coming, sir! I think you need your own tv show! Something like Mike Rowe on Dirty Jobs! Anyhow, i have one question for you. How important is using a torque wrench for this job? I read on DIY forums that you need to torque the bolts at correct specs...blah, blah, blah. For me, if it feels right, then its right!
@waza8i78 If I'm honest I've never used a torque wrench when tightening brake components. That's not to say there aren't specs for it and that you can tighten them as much as you like but I suppose if you tightened them within reason you should be fine.
I'm planning on adjusting the parking brake on my 2005 Toyota Camry (which I assume as the drum-within-disk type parking brake.
My question is... when I replace the wheels, how tight must the bolts be? Do they need a specific torque or can I simply stand on the wrench thing (I'm like 120 lbs) and that'll be enough?
@DALE97DSM That doesn't prevent squealing, it just makes a mess. The shims prevent the squealing as well as the proper lubricants on the pads and caliper slides. The best thing to prevent squealing is a good quality pad, the cheeper ones are the noisy ones.
hey Eric can a sticky caliper cause a pull while braking I did rotors on my 1994 honda accord and I notice that one pad was worn more than the other could that sticky caliper be the problem really appreciate your help I learned how to do rotors just by watching the videos you post I admire your work thanks
@c72zero Yes as a matter of fact a sticking caliper can cause the car to pull on braking as well as uneven pad wear. You might start by cleaning and lubricating the moving parts of the caliper as shown in this video however if you have trouble pushing the piston back in this could indicate a problem with the caliper itself and in that case it would need to be replaced. One last thing, if you replace the caliper and the problem is still there it could be a brake hose.
I have watched a lot of such videos and I am sure yours is the best I have seen, Eric. You have a great style; your instruction is very clear. I just finished doing a brake job on my Pontiac G6 which has that twist and push setup on the rear to compress the cylinder. I wish I had seen your video before I did the job but I am 100% prepared for the next time I do it. Thank you. By the way, do you twist and compress alternately with your self made tool?
@buddyboy4x44 Thanks for the great comment. Yes, I do push while I twist but that is to keep the tool on the piston more than to push it in, that should draw in automatically unless the piston was extended past it's travel, if this is the case then you will have to push it in until the threads catch inside the piston and begin to draw it down.
Hi Eric, Thanks for an elaborate video. I'm unable to get the caliper bolt off. The tiny plate in front of the caliper boot rotates along with the bolt as I try to loosen it. Holding it with a plier did not work.
@ramrice I sometimes take a pry-bar and wedge it between that slide pin and the caliper to help break it loose, I've also used vice grips to hold it. Both of these methods work best when used with an impact wrench, doing it by hand will take quite a bit more effort.
Hi Eric, I never seen clamping the fluid hose and removing the bleeder while pushing the piston. That a good idea...normally I saw people here removing the CAP fluid then push the piston. But it's really hard to push the piston, unlike your video.. it's very easier to push it down with you style. Good job Eric
@axenz1 In addition to making it easier it will also help prevent possible damage to the master cylinder, not to mention keeping the mess off the floor and the firewall, brake fluid will damage paint. This procedure is listed in many service manuals. Thanks for your comment.
Eric, thanks for the video....educational and entertaining! Quick question, do you know off hand if a 2006 Dodge caravan (not "grand") requires turning of the rear caliper to compress it? Also, both rear rotors are rusted, and no signs of being used. Do I absolutely have a caliper problem, or could it just be a seizing of those caliper mounting pins where the mounting bolts go into.
@LakeEffectKing I don't know what system that has off hand but if the parking brake cable goes to the caliper then it is the type that you need to twist in. You won't know what the issue is with the caliper until you remove it, you can then check the slide-pins and piston for movement.
what kind of tubing do you use on that brake fluid collection apparatus? I made a version of it myself (hope there's no patent haha) - But I had a bottle with a hole in the cap, and through the hole I stuck the plasic tube of a bic pen at an angle, with the other end over the bleeder haha. Its not quite so elegant as yours, but it worked. Necessity is the mother of invention haha.
i have seen people do this job but instead of closing off the line and opening the bleeder, they just open the container for the brake fluid in the beginning and when there done they close the brake fluid cap and pump the brakes, is this bad for the car or will it work just like your system???
@hatdomfratdom I don't recommend that. The idea behind my procedure is to prevent sending fluid back into the master and possibly preventing damage to it. Removing the cap does nothing but allow the fluid to leak out and pour over the firewall where it can eat the paint as well as make a mess on the floor which is all easily preventable with a couple of extra seconds to crimp the line and install a bleeder hose.
Eric, I purchased rotors and ceramic pads online and installed them on my S40 Volvo 2001 yesterday. The info you supplied was invaluable and I thank you for providing this info. Biggest issue was taking off rotor screws and there was only one on each rotor and it appears the other screw holes had broken screws in them so I am still getting squeaks, but if I push with my hand the rotor runs more true and does not squeak. Guess I will try and remove screws and insert new. Thanks.
I enjoy the videos. As an Auto student about to graduate and take ASE certification in November I find the little details the best part of videos. Several videos have new info to me. The homemade tools are great and I am going to add to my toolbox. I wish I had seen this video before I first r/r rear rotor & pads and wasted time.
Question: I didn't understand what you meant about master cylinder at end of part 2.
@Mn09lfV6f Thanks for the comment and good luck with your ASE's. To be honest I don't remember the details of the video but I was probably referring to not forcing fluid back to the master but to instead bleed off the fluid at the bleeder to help prevent damage to the master and possibly making a mess.
You gave me the bollocks to replace my rear brakes on my Mustang. The amount of money that you saved me with you taking time to share your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Thanks again. I had fun and I got dirty!
@fraternica I'm glad I could help. I make videos based on the cars that come into my shop so I can't necessarily make videos on demand but I plan on being at this a while and hope to cover a wide range of issues and repair. Thanks for your comment.
Eric thanks for taking the time to make these videos! You have helped me to change some old habits and have seen some better results in doing so on things. Quick question for you. How do you handle vehicles with stainless steel brake lines? I have alway removed the MC cap and using a clean rag taken some fluid out and then pressed the caliper in. What would be a better way of doing this? Thanks again!
ETCG, hey fonz, ive got just 3 more quest.s about brakes if u dont mind !!!, #1) what is the best brand or type of aftermarket brake pads/rotors u buy if you have too? ,and, #2)do you have to align a veh. after a brake job ? and, #3)do you do alignments ? (sorry if its a vid. ill check all of them again soon, it takes an hour to scroll them all !!!)
ETCG, hey man ive got just 3 more quest.s about brakes if u dont mind !!!, #1) what is the best brand or type of aftermarket brake pads/rotors u buy if you have too? ,and, #2)do you have to align a veh. after a brake job ? and, #3)do you do alignments ? (sorry if its a vid. ill check all of them again soon, it takes an hour to scroll them all !!!)
@therockkkkher #1) I don't really feel comfortable 'endorsing' a particular brand but I will say to avoid brake parts that come in a plain white box. #2) no, doing a brake job should not effect the alignment. #3) I don't do alignments at my shop but I have done several over the years, you need a special machine to do that kind of work and they are pretty expensive.
and also you said you prefer oe parts, is that what you usually install in all your vehicles ??? and do you ever machine rotors ??? i dont know if you have a machine to do that, do you ???
@therockkkkher Depends on what the costumer wants and can afford. Even if you use OE calipers they are most likely going to be remanufactured. The point is to use quality parts whenever possible. Yes, I do machine rotors, in fact I hope to make a video on machining brake parts soon.
if you can, make more videos with older Honda Civics, I drive a 91 Honda Civic DX and in the process of restoring it, I watched all of your videos in about two nights, this is better than some classes.
@afjrotc20041 Thanks very much for your comments and request. I plan to be at this for a while and I'm sure I'll be getting to videos on your Honda, for now I'm a slave to what comes into my door but I see lots of Civics so odds are good it will be sooner rather than later. Thanks again.
I am becoming your number1 fan now,regarding about anything on how to fix car mechanical problem.May you continue giving us knowledge and skills about car issue.Thank you very much!!!!
Eric I'm a novice DIY'er and all the brake jobs I've done so far(4), I never pinched off the brake line. I just open the master cylinder to let the pressure out when I push in the piston. Haven't had any problems. Oh and I bleed out the brake fluid afterwards if it's dirty or old.
@mrjost55 I highly recommend doing it the way I did in the video for 2 reasons. First brake fluid will eat through paint so anything getting on the firewall as it comes out the top will eat the paint eventually. Second, the master cylinder is designed to work in one direction, there is a CHANCE that forcing the fluid in the opposite direction will cause one or more of the seals in the master to fail. I have seen this happen on more than one occasion so I just don't take the chance.
Your vise grip with the fuel hose is a great idea. I spent €100 for a snap-on vacum bleeder/fluid transfer kit when I had 3 miles of hose in my garage, thanks for your great videos
@foxdmulder Yea, I'm kinda a cheep bastard when it comes to tools, I only spend real money when it counts, like on my Snap-on wrenches. I've been asked to do a video on my tools, that might be coming soon. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you Eric. Your clear video and common sense makes jobs easier for guys like me (with kids that have old cars that I need to keep going). God bless you and keep you! (Also liked Old Glory in the background)
@Briansky63 Best comment of the day, thank you. I'm glad I was able to help, I started ETCG to do just that and comments like this let me know I'm on the right track so thank YOU.
hi eric whats up man i have a question for you hope you can help me i just changed the front struts on a 1994 honda civic and now im all done but it sound like the spring is rubbing on somthing it even looks like the spring went back on kinda bowed out a little what causes that and how can i fix it please help me please
Great video series Eric, finialy had a chance to see all 3 parts. Been busyer then a 1 legged man in an ass kicking contest latley. I've never seen a brake rotor that didn't have air vents before. I guess they figure that the rears do what is it? 40% of the stopping power?
@Michiganborn1969 Thanks for sticking it out. In fact for the most part rear brakes are only doing about 20% of the work. The heavier vehicles will have vented rear rotors, light ones don't need it, remember brakes turn speed into heat and the more mass you have the more heat will be generated as that speed turns into heat.
What? no air tools ...... wow I'm impressed. who would of thought that you had the strength old man lol j/k Hey by the way Honda car guy, I know is not common but when you get a chance could you show us how to troubleshoot/ change a rack & pinion and maybe leaking the power steering on a honda accord please :) either way you get my full support
@malecco1 I may be old but everything still works, including me. I'd be happy to do a PS rack video the next time I get one in, thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks
TheCanatear 1 week ago
Saved my day. good information. needed this for an infinity same set up.
TheCanatear 1 week ago
Just a curious question as I was told this when I had the brakes done at Midas on my truck. They say you should have brand new rotors turned to make sure they are not warped. You did not do that with the new rotor in this video. What is your opinion on this suggestion?
williamocrow 1 week ago in playlist Brakes
thanks
12345livin 4 weeks ago
I forgot to mention on my post to part 2, we highly recommend washing new or turned rotor with soap and water. Once they dry, then condition rotor with the OE Approved Silencer rotor spray. It treats rotor so speed of new pad burnish is slowed down and heat is better controlled. Finally, paint the inside of rotor hat or spindle face with our OE Approved Pastelub 2400 moly, graphite, aluminum paste. The procedure is at... Stop Brake Noise. com. Thanks, Gary
PalmBeachVideos1 1 month ago
i did a Jaguar x type,that piston turns counter clock.
hp11208 1 month ago
Thank you very much Eric, I could see everything you were doing, and I really liked the new tool trick as well. Be a single mom doing my own brake job was already costlessly enough without having to purchase YET another tool to finish a job. Wonderful job. Thank you so much.
Dragonfly7111 3 months ago
@Dragonfly7111 I'm glad you liked the video, thanks very much for that comment it means I'm doing my job well.
EricTheCarGuy 2 months ago
how did you make your bleeder reservoir ? and i tried to change the breaks on my buddys 2003 buick lesbare and all of the caliper bolts were seized i tried wd-40 anti rust everything, and i don't have a torch what else can i do to unseize the bolt
PoliceWillProtect 3 months ago
@PoliceWillProtect That's a tough one because you really want to avoid heating them because you could damage the caliper or other components, you might try and air hammer with a pointed bit to 'impact' it off, it really just depends on what you have there and without seeing it for myself it's hard to say unfortunately. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
..... so i took the caliper bracket to a honda shop down the street and he freed up the seized slide bolt and it all went back together in a breeze. simple!
ryazbeck 4 months ago
@ryazbeck Nice I love a happy ending. Thanks for your comments.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
hey this is a GREAT walkthrough, thanks a lot.
i have a problem. got the piston pushed back in with the edge of a wrench, then i put it all back together, but the little top squishy thing that allows the caliper to move side to side is jammed, completely seized. i've taken it apart and pounded it with a hammer and it absolutely will not budge. gonna see if i need to replace it or if it's possible to fix, which i am doubting at this point.
ryazbeck 4 months ago
damn... sorry about the multiple posts, it gave me an error when I tired to comment but I didn't think it would post the same comment over and over..again.. I apologize.
Now.. my question..... are the caliper brackets on my car bad? i can get the new pads on, even with the piston all the way back, the caliper brackets have the rubber boots on them, are those parts suppost to move? mine don't move at all, thanks for the help.
flaco198111 5 months ago
@flaco198111 I would recommend you watch all 3 of the videos in this series or the full length version as I cover that information in the videos.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
thanks.
flaco198111 5 months ago
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
thanks.
flaco198111 5 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
thanks.
flaco198111 5 months ago
Thanks for the response... I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
thanks.
flaco198111 5 months ago
@flaco198111 Do you have the piston lined up correctly? If not it won't' slide over the pin on the back of the pad.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
great videos.... big fan! two questions, how much would you charge me for one of those caliper tools? :)
And the other one..... I watched all your brake videos, and I don't think i seen one on how to bed in the new brakes, that's kind of important on new brakes right?
flaco198111 5 months ago
@flaco198111 I don't sell those tools so you'll have to make your own. You are correct that it is recommended that you seat in the new pads, usually about 30 stops from 30mph from what I remember, I probably should mention that at some point, thanks for pointing that out.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Very helpful Thanks
1verdin 5 months ago
@1verdin Your welcome.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Hi, Eric...
Great job on these videos. I need to replace front and rear brake pads on a 2006 Honda Odyssey. Is the piston compression tool required or can I use a large C-clamp and an old pad to return the piston to a flush position?
Thanks for your insight!
analogkidz 5 months ago
@analogkidz Not on some rear pads, I actually covered that in the video you might want to go back and re-watch the series or the full length version of this video.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
thanks for this video, it helped me a lot..
metuberopo 6 months ago
@metuberopo Happy to be of service. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Great video Eric really informative, you explain everything in detail without getting overly technical, which is awesome for a beginner like me. Big thumbs up for hitting the middle mark on brake job vids. Not tooo brief and not tooo technical... Thanks bud
budokai100mph 6 months ago
@budokai100mph I'm glad you liked the video, thanks very much for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Dear Eric:
Greetings. If I may I have a question to ask you not related to your videos. I would like to know if you may tell me how you made your videos and how you upload them into you tube. I would like to put some mathematical lectures in YouTube. I have never done this and need some help and tutoring. Do I need to buy a camera or can I use the camera that my computer already has. Do I need assistance or can I do it alone. And whatever other advice you may have for me. Thank you
192ali1 7 months ago
@192ali1 There are actually a variety of how to video posted on YouTube on that very subject including ones made by YouTube, I suggest you watch those videos as they will give you specific answers to your questions. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
Just watched the video prior to changing the pads in my 94 Accord EX(F22B1). It was cake, thanks to you. I only discovered your channel a couple days ago and after watching your videos I feel more confident in tackling some of the things I was hesitant to do. Thank you so much, Dude! It's nice to know there are still decent humans left in this world! God Bless!
kobevsjordan310 9 months ago
@kobevsjordan310 Thank you so much for that comment I'm happy to help.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy The manual said to replace the lock pins connecting the e-brake to the caliper. I used the same ones and a new cotter pin. WIll that be okay? Also, the screws holding the rotor to the hub were missing? Are they super important?
kobevsjordan310 9 months ago
@kobevsjordan310 I think you should be fine on both counts, the wheel holds the rotor on, the screws are just there to make assembly easier.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Awesome! Thanks. I actually tackled a fuel filter replacement and it went quite well. As always those Honda engineers put them in the worst spot to get to. Do I have a way making a donation to you through your website?
kobevsjordan310 8 months ago
@kobevsjordan310 If it was the one under the master cylinder on an Accord those are actually suppose to be lifetime filters and do not get replaced on a regular basis as a result. There is a 'donate' button on the 'fix it' page of my website, thanks in advance if you decide to make a donation.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
Excellent Video. The rear pistons on a 1998 Sable are twisties also. A real P.I.T.A. to turn back flush with the caliper housing. The top slide pin was frozen solid, so the piston had turned all of the way out. I did not know that they continue to turn, once thay are seated. Thanks for the advice. Kudos ! Rich
MrPcmedic 9 months ago
@MrPcmedic Glad you got it worked out, thanks for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
ir u didnt block the brakeline. wouldnt the fluid move back up to level it was before
pinoypower247 9 months ago
@pinoypower247 Doing that actually helps prevent it from pulling air back into the system with the bleeder open.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy ok, so just to be on the safe side, block the brake line and refill the brake fluid?
pinoypower247 9 months ago
@pinoypower247 That's how I do it yes.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
why did you have to bleed some of the fluid out?
jessssyx 10 months ago
@jessssyx You might want to re-watch the video as I explained it there.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
I noticed that you used vice grips to crimp the brake line, would the same crimping be safe on Stainless steel brake lines? Thanks.
strivingit 10 months ago
@strivingit No I don't think it would sorry.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
@strivingit You would be collapsing (squashing), a metal line. In other words squeezing the line closed !
MrPcmedic 9 months ago
hey erci love the porn groove music your using makes me laugh good cheers:)
fastvpbt1 10 months ago
@fastvpbt1 I had the same thought, it's nice to know that someone else out there has a twisted sense of humor. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
Your amazing
ChainsofAlic3 11 months ago
@ChainsofAlic3 Not really, I just know how to use a video camera and edit. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
Damn Eric your tool is light years better than the crappy store bought tool. It's a wonder why they haven't marketed a tool like yours specifically for Hondas
DriftingFWWA 11 months ago
@DriftingFWWA It does work pretty well. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
Just finished replacing all discs and pads on my Integra Type-R DC2, i got the confidence from your videos, thank you! I ran into some problems though, hope you can help me again :)
1. The rear brake pads did not have the pin that should fit into the slot on the piston, is that a problem?
2. I could not use the locating screws that hold the rear discs, the holes where at another location. Is it okay without them?
3. My handbrake has more travel than before, so i have to readjust, is that normal?
GrandDanois 1 year ago
@GrandDanois Sounds like you used cheep pads, not the best idea with that car in my opinion. As for the screw holes they are offset so try relocating the rotor as you install it on the hub to line up the screw holes, if it doesn't line up after this you also have some pretty cheep rotors, also not recommended. You don't need the screws. As for your parking brake if it is different after you did the work you may have caused a problem inadvertently, resist adjusting it look for the cause first.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy - Thanks. It may be "cheap" parts, the Integra is only sold 25 times in denmark, so i bought what i could get. I've driven with these brakes a few days now and no problems so far. As for the handbrake, google found some information for me. Apparently it sometimes happens when changing the rear pads, so the self adjusting system needs to be reset. To do this you loosen the handbrake cable until the arm on the caliper hits the stop pin, and then readjust. Worked for me!
GrandDanois 11 months ago
@GrandDanois Glad you got it sorted. Thanks for the update.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
do i need to buy rotors and pads from the same company, or can the rotors be say pagid and pads ate.
raikkonen85 1 year ago
@raikkonen85 So long as the rotors are from the same place you should be fine. You don't want to mix rotors if you can avoid it.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hey Eric what would youdo as far as machining a rotor without a lathe if needed and the customer couldn't afford rotors? Would you do anything to them or leave them alone if they were smooth?
PVoyager 1 year ago
@PVoyager You can usually take them to your local auto parts store to be machined, they normally don't charge that much to do them.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
cant imagine working with that iperial system..... great vid tho
acula1982 1 year ago
@acula1982 Yea, I can't wait for it to go away either but it might be some time before that happens the way things are going.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
awesome vid, i like your voice
damez7 1 year ago
@damez7 Thanks on both counts.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey eric, i was told that if I were to flush the brake fluid out and replenished it with new brake fluid at all 4 wheels I would need a special tool to communicate with the ABS system so it doesn't malfunction. Is that true or false?
PVoyager 1 year ago
@PVoyager Never heard of that as the ABS sensors have nothing to do with the brake fluid.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Do you use OEM brake pads? If not, what brand of brake pads do you recommend? When you replace the rotors, what brand to do you recommend for them? How long does it usually take for a rotor to reach its minimum thickness? Thanks for the feedback.
aaronac8 1 year ago
@aaronac8 Depends on the vehicle, some aftermarket parts are actually the OE supplier so with some pads you can get OE parts without the markup. As for rotors just don't go too cheep as they can be a problem. I will say this, the most common complaint with cheep brakes is noise, you can go a long way to prevent that using the techniques in this video but the rest is up to the parts, if you do all this and still have noise it's probably the parts that are at fault.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@aaronac8 cheap, not cheep, unless you are a baby chicken
ryanrec84 8 months ago
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aaronac8 1 year ago
Do rotors need to be machined or replaced every time you replace the brake pads? Also, any way to stop brake squeaking only in the am when backing out of my driveway after the car has sat outside overnight?
aaronac8 1 year ago
@aaronac8 No they don't, in fact most manufacturers just recommend replacement of the pads when doing a brake job. If you don't have any issues with brake pulsation then I would just replace the pads. If you service the brake as shown in the video using the correct lubricants in the correct places it goes a long way toward eliminating noise, the rest is really up to the pads you use, usually cheeper pads make noise in my experience.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
When or do you ever put antiseize on brake pad shims?
aaronac8 1 year ago
@aaronac8 Personally I don't do that but I've seen it done in an attempt to reduce noise. I feel that if you use a quality pad installed correctly noise should not be an issue.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I like just watching your vids for fun because I want to be a mechanic, any tips?
whitetrashgangsta4 1 year ago
@whitetrashgangsta4 I've actually done a series of videos on being a mechanic on my other channel ETCG1, you might want to check those out. Thanks for watching and your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Would this work on a 09 vw gti?
airwicksyg 1 year ago
@airwicksyg I think so yes.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@EricTheCarGuy
I have 1996 Acura Integra and my car makes this scraping noise when i use the brakes the sound is coming from the rear left brakes i thought it was my pads but it wasn't they were like new when i checked but the rotor were rusted pretty bad do you think its the rotor and if i changed it would the sound go away?
DonnyTwilight 1 year ago
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DonnyTwilight 1 year ago
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DonnyTwilight 1 year ago
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DonnyTwilight 1 year ago
You're my hero. Thanks for this video!!
natster11 1 year ago 2
@natster11 Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hey Eric,
Love the videos!! Keep them coming, sir! I think you need your own tv show! Something like Mike Rowe on Dirty Jobs! Anyhow, i have one question for you. How important is using a torque wrench for this job? I read on DIY forums that you need to torque the bolts at correct specs...blah, blah, blah. For me, if it feels right, then its right!
waza8i78 1 year ago
@waza8i78 If I'm honest I've never used a torque wrench when tightening brake components. That's not to say there aren't specs for it and that you can tighten them as much as you like but I suppose if you tightened them within reason you should be fine.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hey Eric!
I'm planning on adjusting the parking brake on my 2005 Toyota Camry (which I assume as the drum-within-disk type parking brake.
My question is... when I replace the wheels, how tight must the bolts be? Do they need a specific torque or can I simply stand on the wrench thing (I'm like 120 lbs) and that'll be enough?
mrairplaneman777 1 year ago
@mrairplaneman777 If memory serves the torque should be 80lbft for the lug nuts.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Good how to's. You forgot to put brake caliper grease on backside of the pds to prevent sqwealing.
DALE97DSM 1 year ago
@DALE97DSM That doesn't prevent squealing, it just makes a mess. The shims prevent the squealing as well as the proper lubricants on the pads and caliper slides. The best thing to prevent squealing is a good quality pad, the cheeper ones are the noisy ones.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey Eric can a sticky caliper cause a pull while braking I did rotors on my 1994 honda accord and I notice that one pad was worn more than the other could that sticky caliper be the problem really appreciate your help I learned how to do rotors just by watching the videos you post I admire your work thanks
c72zero 1 year ago
@c72zero Yes as a matter of fact a sticking caliper can cause the car to pull on braking as well as uneven pad wear. You might start by cleaning and lubricating the moving parts of the caliper as shown in this video however if you have trouble pushing the piston back in this could indicate a problem with the caliper itself and in that case it would need to be replaced. One last thing, if you replace the caliper and the problem is still there it could be a brake hose.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
can I also use a piston tool that is shaped like a cube that has various shapes for the pistons
c72zero 1 year ago
can I also use a piston tool that is shaped like a cube that has various shapes
c72zero 1 year ago
@c72zero Sure, I think I showed that tool also but didn't use it.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I have watched a lot of such videos and I am sure yours is the best I have seen, Eric. You have a great style; your instruction is very clear. I just finished doing a brake job on my Pontiac G6 which has that twist and push setup on the rear to compress the cylinder. I wish I had seen your video before I did the job but I am 100% prepared for the next time I do it. Thank you. By the way, do you twist and compress alternately with your self made tool?
buddyboy4x44 1 year ago
@buddyboy4x44 Thanks for the great comment. Yes, I do push while I twist but that is to keep the tool on the piston more than to push it in, that should draw in automatically unless the piston was extended past it's travel, if this is the case then you will have to push it in until the threads catch inside the piston and begin to draw it down.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hi Eric, Thanks for an elaborate video. I'm unable to get the caliper bolt off. The tiny plate in front of the caliper boot rotates along with the bolt as I try to loosen it. Holding it with a plier did not work.
ramrice 1 year ago
@ramrice I sometimes take a pry-bar and wedge it between that slide pin and the caliper to help break it loose, I've also used vice grips to hold it. Both of these methods work best when used with an impact wrench, doing it by hand will take quite a bit more effort.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hi Eric, I never seen clamping the fluid hose and removing the bleeder while pushing the piston. That a good idea...normally I saw people here removing the CAP fluid then push the piston. But it's really hard to push the piston, unlike your video.. it's very easier to push it down with you style. Good job Eric
axenz1 1 year ago
@axenz1 In addition to making it easier it will also help prevent possible damage to the master cylinder, not to mention keeping the mess off the floor and the firewall, brake fluid will damage paint. This procedure is listed in many service manuals. Thanks for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy Does it apply to the front wheel also? I mean clamping hose fluid and unscrew the bleeder
axenz1 1 year ago
@axenz1 I perform this procedure on every brake caliper I work on.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Eric, thanks for the video....educational and entertaining! Quick question, do you know off hand if a 2006 Dodge caravan (not "grand") requires turning of the rear caliper to compress it? Also, both rear rotors are rusted, and no signs of being used. Do I absolutely have a caliper problem, or could it just be a seizing of those caliper mounting pins where the mounting bolts go into.
Thanks.
LakeEffectKing 1 year ago
@LakeEffectKing I don't know what system that has off hand but if the parking brake cable goes to the caliper then it is the type that you need to twist in. You won't know what the issue is with the caliper until you remove it, you can then check the slide-pins and piston for movement.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy
Thanks Eric.
LakeEffectKing 1 year ago
what kind of tubing do you use on that brake fluid collection apparatus? I made a version of it myself (hope there's no patent haha) - But I had a bottle with a hole in the cap, and through the hole I stuck the plasic tube of a bic pen at an angle, with the other end over the bleeder haha. Its not quite so elegant as yours, but it worked. Necessity is the mother of invention haha.
ffgew22 1 year ago
@ffgew22 You can find that tubing at your hardware or aquarium store, it's pretty common actually. I like your solution, nicely done.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
i have seen people do this job but instead of closing off the line and opening the bleeder, they just open the container for the brake fluid in the beginning and when there done they close the brake fluid cap and pump the brakes, is this bad for the car or will it work just like your system???
hatdomfratdom 1 year ago
@hatdomfratdom I don't recommend that. The idea behind my procedure is to prevent sending fluid back into the master and possibly preventing damage to it. Removing the cap does nothing but allow the fluid to leak out and pour over the firewall where it can eat the paint as well as make a mess on the floor which is all easily preventable with a couple of extra seconds to crimp the line and install a bleeder hose.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
eric u are the best at would u do
Zbox3000 1 year ago
@Zbox3000 Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy
Eric, I purchased rotors and ceramic pads online and installed them on my S40 Volvo 2001 yesterday. The info you supplied was invaluable and I thank you for providing this info. Biggest issue was taking off rotor screws and there was only one on each rotor and it appears the other screw holes had broken screws in them so I am still getting squeaks, but if I push with my hand the rotor runs more true and does not squeak. Guess I will try and remove screws and insert new. Thanks.
luthersdad1 1 year ago
awesome eric, great video
reddog9401 1 year ago
I enjoy the videos. As an Auto student about to graduate and take ASE certification in November I find the little details the best part of videos. Several videos have new info to me. The homemade tools are great and I am going to add to my toolbox. I wish I had seen this video before I first r/r rear rotor & pads and wasted time.
Question: I didn't understand what you meant about master cylinder at end of part 2.
Mn09lfV6f 1 year ago
@Mn09lfV6f Thanks for the comment and good luck with your ASE's. To be honest I don't remember the details of the video but I was probably referring to not forcing fluid back to the master but to instead bleed off the fluid at the bleeder to help prevent damage to the master and possibly making a mess.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@Mn09lfV6f good luck with your ASE
Zbox3000 1 year ago
You gave me the bollocks to replace my rear brakes on my Mustang. The amount of money that you saved me with you taking time to share your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Thanks again. I had fun and I got dirty!
412991 1 year ago
@412991 You just made comment of the day, thanks!
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Thank you so much for making these videos! I might not even have to ask my brother to help me the next time I'll change the brake discs and pads :)
Also, I have a small request. Could you make a video on how to replace the brake fluid hoses? I know I would be very appreciative :)
fraternica 1 year ago
@fraternica I'm glad I could help. I make videos based on the cars that come into my shop so I can't necessarily make videos on demand but I plan on being at this a while and hope to cover a wide range of issues and repair. Thanks for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Excellent series of videos. Really excellent.
elbelcho 1 year ago
@elbelcho Thanks for the great comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
btw I did it with a screw driver, but its was the big plus sign so it wasnt to bad at all.
Spiegel420 1 year ago
@Spiegel420 I like happy endings.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Eric thanks for taking the time to make these videos! You have helped me to change some old habits and have seen some better results in doing so on things. Quick question for you. How do you handle vehicles with stainless steel brake lines? I have alway removed the MC cap and using a clean rag taken some fluid out and then pressed the caliper in. What would be a better way of doing this? Thanks again!
boost3782 1 year ago
@boost3782 I think I answered this in an email the other day, let me know if it wasn't you and I'll go over it again.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
The anti seize (copper colored) you used in the video, Is the silver colored anti seize ok to use ?
JUDGERAMBO 1 year ago
@JUDGERAMBO The silver is just fine, I prefer the copper colored stuff however, it seems to last longer but that's just my opinion.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
ETCG, hey fonz, ive got just 3 more quest.s about brakes if u dont mind !!!, #1) what is the best brand or type of aftermarket brake pads/rotors u buy if you have too? ,and, #2)do you have to align a veh. after a brake job ? and, #3)do you do alignments ? (sorry if its a vid. ill check all of them again soon, it takes an hour to scroll them all !!!)
therockkkkher 1 year ago
ETCG, hey man ive got just 3 more quest.s about brakes if u dont mind !!!, #1) what is the best brand or type of aftermarket brake pads/rotors u buy if you have too? ,and, #2)do you have to align a veh. after a brake job ? and, #3)do you do alignments ? (sorry if its a vid. ill check all of them again soon, it takes an hour to scroll them all !!!)
therockkkkher 1 year ago
@therockkkkher #1) I don't really feel comfortable 'endorsing' a particular brand but I will say to avoid brake parts that come in a plain white box. #2) no, doing a brake job should not effect the alignment. #3) I don't do alignments at my shop but I have done several over the years, you need a special machine to do that kind of work and they are pretty expensive.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
definately looking out for that machining brake parts video, keep living rebel fab. !!!
therockkkkher 1 year ago
@therockkkkher Glad to have you aboard. I'm on a backlog right now but I will be making that video ASAP. Thanks for your comments.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
and also you said you prefer oe parts, is that what you usually install in all your vehicles ??? and do you ever machine rotors ??? i dont know if you have a machine to do that, do you ???
therockkkkher 1 year ago
@therockkkkher Depends on what the costumer wants and can afford. Even if you use OE calipers they are most likely going to be remanufactured. The point is to use quality parts whenever possible. Yes, I do machine rotors, in fact I hope to make a video on machining brake parts soon.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
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therockkkkher 1 year ago
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therockkkkher 1 year ago
@therockkkkher I don't torque calipers other than by "feel".
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
if you can, make more videos with older Honda Civics, I drive a 91 Honda Civic DX and in the process of restoring it, I watched all of your videos in about two nights, this is better than some classes.
afjrotc20041 1 year ago
@afjrotc20041 Thanks very much for your comments and request. I plan to be at this for a while and I'm sure I'll be getting to videos on your Honda, for now I'm a slave to what comes into my door but I see lots of Civics so odds are good it will be sooner rather than later. Thanks again.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Great videos. Clear photography, down-to-earth and very helpful.
Hope you keep them coming.
Cheers.
HillsideFirstSchool 1 year ago
@HillsideFirstSchool Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I am becoming your number1 fan now,regarding about anything on how to fix car mechanical problem.May you continue giving us knowledge and skills about car issue.Thank you very much!!!!
richardramoso 1 year ago
@richardramoso Well thanks for watching and the great comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Eric I'm a novice DIY'er and all the brake jobs I've done so far(4), I never pinched off the brake line. I just open the master cylinder to let the pressure out when I push in the piston. Haven't had any problems. Oh and I bleed out the brake fluid afterwards if it's dirty or old.
mrjost55 1 year ago
@mrjost55 I highly recommend doing it the way I did in the video for 2 reasons. First brake fluid will eat through paint so anything getting on the firewall as it comes out the top will eat the paint eventually. Second, the master cylinder is designed to work in one direction, there is a CHANCE that forcing the fluid in the opposite direction will cause one or more of the seals in the master to fail. I have seen this happen on more than one occasion so I just don't take the chance.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy Okay, will try that next time. Thanks for responding :)
mrjost55 1 year ago
@mrjost55
I just did the same thing today when changing my front brake pads. I hope nothing goes wrong.
MRJerrod410 1 year ago
@MRJerrod410 I'm sure you did fine.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Your vise grip with the fuel hose is a great idea. I spent €100 for a snap-on vacum bleeder/fluid transfer kit when I had 3 miles of hose in my garage, thanks for your great videos
foxdmulder 1 year ago
@foxdmulder Yea, I'm kinda a cheep bastard when it comes to tools, I only spend real money when it counts, like on my Snap-on wrenches. I've been asked to do a video on my tools, that might be coming soon. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
added u on twitter
AutoStudent4Life 1 year ago
Thank you Eric. Your clear video and common sense makes jobs easier for guys like me (with kids that have old cars that I need to keep going). God bless you and keep you! (Also liked Old Glory in the background)
Briansky63 1 year ago
@Briansky63 Best comment of the day, thank you. I'm glad I was able to help, I started ETCG to do just that and comments like this let me know I'm on the right track so thank YOU.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hi eric whats up man i have a question for you hope you can help me i just changed the front struts on a 1994 honda civic and now im all done but it sound like the spring is rubbing on somthing it even looks like the spring went back on kinda bowed out a little what causes that and how can i fix it please help me please
aristas30002000 1 year ago
Thanks Eric anytime. Always looking forward to future intruction videos.
Michiganborn1969 1 year ago
Great video series Eric, finialy had a chance to see all 3 parts. Been busyer then a 1 legged man in an ass kicking contest latley. I've never seen a brake rotor that didn't have air vents before. I guess they figure that the rears do what is it? 40% of the stopping power?
Michiganborn1969 1 year ago
@Michiganborn1969 Thanks for sticking it out. In fact for the most part rear brakes are only doing about 20% of the work. The heavier vehicles will have vented rear rotors, light ones don't need it, remember brakes turn speed into heat and the more mass you have the more heat will be generated as that speed turns into heat.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hubcap remover works very well with those pistons.
JT484236 1 year ago
you are the man! A+
elic123456 1 year ago
@elic123456 Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
What? no air tools ...... wow I'm impressed. who would of thought that you had the strength old man lol j/k Hey by the way Honda car guy, I know is not common but when you get a chance could you show us how to troubleshoot/ change a rack & pinion and maybe leaking the power steering on a honda accord please :) either way you get my full support
malecco1 1 year ago
@malecco1 I may be old but everything still works, including me. I'd be happy to do a PS rack video the next time I get one in, thanks for the suggestion.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Stopped by!
Les
bigblockmustang 1 year ago
@bigblockmustang Hi Les.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago