Labdanum 18 by Le Labo: Perfume Review / Fragrance Review

[FM897]

Sounds sexy!

[trident3b]

Great stuff. Have you reviewed Molecule01 and Chergui too? Would be interesting to see/hear your comments. I notice Helmut Lang mentioned in another post... indeed, I too have a bottle of that. It must be some 10 years old now and still packed away in a box in the UK... (I now live in Germany). Must dig that out again. Do perfumes die with age? Keep up the great reviews.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@trident3b Perfumes lose some of their punch with age, some turn, but if stored away from light/heat, it should be good enough.

I've reviewed both Molecule 01 and Chergui on my blog - go to my YouTube front page to find them on my Fragrance Names index.

[trident3b]

@KatiePuckrikSmells Thank you for your responses. A privilege & delight to receive them! Regarding Molecule01 and Chergui I shall try to look up your respective blogs. My Helmut Lang is indeed in a box i.e. protected from light, and in a cool if not cold garage, so with some luck it might still be ok then. Thank you!

[Cardsmaster]

Katie Puckrick, I remembered this review while i was snooping around at Barneys today. As soon as I sprayed it i said to myself "I HAVE this."

and I did....it's called Helmut Lang cologne...and they were both made by Maurice Roucel!! Wooooo glad I didn't have to spend the 200 bucks.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@Cardsmaster Bingo!! Helmut Lang is discontinued now, so you're lucky to have a bottle. It does appear ol' M. Roucel did a little recycling for L18. Waste not, want not. (In the same vein, Le Labo Vetiver 46 is Marc Buxton's take 2 on Comme des Garcons 2 Man.)

[Fable215]

"Did you see how she said sexy" She's beautiful!

[warden9876]

Labdanum is alright , especially with an admixture of benzoin.

[SubconsciousGatherer]

I take it this is a joke? Who would willingly put the secretions from a beaver's anal glands on their skin?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@SubconsciousGatherer Nowadays, the odor of castoreum, musk and civet are recreated with aromachemicals in fragrances, but before the last 20 years, the real thing was used in perfumes for hundreds of years - in miniscule amounts. It may sound gross, but oils from those animals' glands are what we respond to as sexy scents.

[SubconsciousGatherer]

@KatiePuckrikSmells I suppose since we are all animals it should make sense on some level, but I have to wonder: Why beaver? Why not use the secretions of humans?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@SubconsciousGatherer Don't think it hasn't been tried! Animal musk is no longer used in perfume, but even the man-made versions strive to dupe the original smell, because its leathery, musky scent is very close to a human's sweaty post-sex skin smell. (Animal musk also served as a long-lasting fixative for lighter perfume notes.)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Your "why beaver secretions if we're presumably trying to attract other humans, not beavers" point can be further extended to "why flowers?" After all, the fragrance of flowers evolved to attract insects to facilitate pollination, not to attract humans to stick their big noses into the petals. And yet, the history of perfume is the history of attempts to capture the smell of flowers as realistically as possible.

[SubconsciousGatherer]

@KatiePuckrikSmells Your eloquent point is well made and noted, but it still comes down to the difference between using human scents, plant scents, or beaver anal glands.* I'm ignorant to the entire history and process of how this came about (I admit that). I just don't understand how we got from "let's *not* use human odors, let's perhaps use flower odors, and oh wait...beaver anal glands, that's it!" I'm genuinely curious about learning what would've lead someone to try that.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Gosh, that's a question you could apply to just about anything to the history of mankind! How did humans figure out cacti were edible? How did they figure out you could build a house out of cow dung? How did they figure out that coffee beans found in civet cat excrement are a gourmet treat? There are all sorts of "obviously weird ideas" that somehow got woven into the fabric of human existence and culture.

[SubconsciousGatherer]

@KatiePuckrikSmells I'd also like to know how many cigarette smokers know that their cigs also contain beaver anal gland secretions for the purposes of scent and taste. (You may not have that figure, but it's still something I'd like to find out.)

[mertevenk]

Katie, since you kind of compared Musc Ravageur and Labdanum 18 in one of your perfume collection videos, I'd like to know which one you like more.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@mertevenk MR and L18 are both by Maurice Roucel, and when I got L18, I put away my MR because I felt that L18 was a girlier evolutionary advancement on MR, and I liked it more. But now I'm back to wearing my MR oil.

L18 is much more powdery than MR. MR is a bit sweeter and thicker.

[mertevenk]

@KatiePuckrikSmells Thanks Katie. I own and love Musc Ravageur and I've been wondering about Labdanum 18 for quite a while now. There's a buzz around the Internet about those two fragrances resembling each other, so that's why I asked. Now I'm going to have to sample Labdanum 18 and see what happens.

[eframke]

Great video as always. I wish you would review more colognes for us guys. The cologne reviewers typically make 10 minute videos describing the bottle and box and whether or not it's a panty dropper... Thanks <3

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@eframke You're right about that :-) The packaging can be cool or interesting or arty or whatever, but it's the least important aspect of the fragrance as far as I'm concerned. I'm working on more review of masculine scents...

[Kerosenetrewthe]

I hate you. I need to check out the Le Labo house which is getting added to the never-ending sniff list.

You look great in this video, btw.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@Kerosenetrewthe Ha-ha, don't hate me, hate the evil perfumers with their never-ending creations.

[cformosa4]

I love you! So descriptive!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@cformosa4 Thank you, Cubby-butt!

[Rainydaywoman7]

the name and the bottle remind me of the old laudnum bottles from the 1800's...i wonder if that was the inspiration.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Huh! Very interesting - just read up on laudanum - the recreational opiate of choice back in the Victorian times. The entire Le Labo line has the medicine bottle look...don't know if phamaceuticals were the inspiration, but perfume is certainly my drug of choice!

[mrclmind]

Laudanum and labdanum are two completely different things. Labdanum is an aromatic resin, laudanum is a tincture of opium.

[lognorupa]

Have you noticed how similar this smells to FM Musc Ravageur?!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Yes yes yes! Maurice Roucel created them both. Before I discovered Labdanum 18, MR was my go-to musky love. But now I like L18 better, because it really focuses on the animal-musk stuff, and dispenses with the cinnamon and spices in MR.

[lognorupa]

I have to re-try them both to see which one I prefer, but I'm not a big fan of cinnamon. I remember liking them because I detected a lot of vanilla, which is a note I've just discovered...any vanilla recs?

I just googled, and apparently Maurice Roucel did Jasmin 17 as well, which is another one I like from Le Labo

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Maison Vanille Vanille Sauvage de Madagascar (gorgeous dry vanilla with patchouli)

By Kilian Love (vanilla meringue)

Kenzo Amour edp (sensual, vanilla-based oriental)

LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia, (smoky, almost ashy cotton candy)

Guerlain Shalimar (the classic oriental: vanilla & amber)

Indult Tihota (a single-minded love letter to vanilla)

[lognorupa]

Shalimar I really like, L'AP Vanilia I have tried and thought it was pleasant but lacking depth. I have vague (positive) recollections of the By Killian so I should test that on again. Tihota has been on my to-try list for ages but I've never seen it anywhere. The MVVVSdM I have never even heard of! Next time I'm in a perfume store I am going to try the Amour immediately. Thanks!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I've seen the Indult line at LuckyScent/Scent Bar.

[goddessinsecta]

Please add that Le Labo uses synthetic musk/civet/castoreum now after a letter/email writing campaign by Makeup Alley. They said they changed, and I believe them. If so, they are to be honored for saving beautiful animals from pain and degradation. I enjoy your reviews very much. This one was really funny!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Good to know. Thanks for posting this info.

[RedHeadExitting]

i really like your reviews, you make smelling so fun

[Beatlesgirl1978]

I just sampled this today and it is amazing! That slightly leathery note is so good. Great Review!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I'm so glad you like it! It's one of my faves, and one does get a little protective, even though I try to stay "professional"!

[strangeritual]

i remember you in Pyjama Party, Katie. you still look good

[Persephone500]

Katie,

I absolutely love your videos. May I ask a question? What do you use for make-up that makes your skin glow so beautifully?It is just the look I want.  Thanks

(I am going to buy the Chanel you recommended as my next purchase)

[livegorgeouslygreen]

You are so funny! I love your reviews...I never knew perfume could be so entertaining. Keep up the good work.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

"Setting gel" is a good way to describe the heavier notes that anchor a fragrance. Animalic notes like ambergris and civet and vegetal ones like patchouli and oakmoss all increase longevity of the airier citrus and floral ingredients, as well as adding their own funky flavas.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

That twitches eagerly in the direction of the ambergris.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I love the picture of a "conniving perfume maker". Maybe he has a long, skinny moustache that he twirls in his rose-scented fingers...

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Thanks, Babs! You ARE a sweetie!

xo

[FloridaSweety]

I think your becoming my favorite!!

[juniorfef]

You have such a natural attractiveness. I love your videos and you. Thanks for updating and keeping in touch with all your fans. :)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

And the question I always have is: who stumbled upon petrified whale hurl on the beach and decided it was the missing link to fine perfumery?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

As for whale barf, or "ambergris", that's not an issue of animal cruelty, just one of rarity. The sperm whale hacks up a loogie from time to time, an intestinal secretion that often contains sharp giant squid beaks. Ambergris is the whale version of a hairball: a blob of gunk it needs to jettison out of its tummy.

Ambergris "cures" on the surface of the ocean, developing its characteristically earthy-sweet, animalic character. The solid, waxy end product is used to add depth to perfumes.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Dear rear! Good one!

As much as I'd like to imagine fluffy animals willingly submitting various glandular secretions from their hindquarters for our perfume pleasure, the truth is that synthetic recreations are indeed used for civet, musk and castoreum notes. Chemical reconstructions are less cruel, more consistent.

[NeutronStarMusic]

A giant Godzilla sized-baby - now that would be a sight to behold !

Labdanum 18 sounds interesting though :-)

[carew]

think this might be my fave one yet. And not just because you say Butt x 3.

[doodygirl]

Great video

[deadjailorrocknroll]

HA HA HAAA ! luvn your stuff... unfortunately, le labo is hard to come by for me, whats the chance of getting a sample ?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Don't know where you'd snag some in Australia, but I do know that they've started carrying Le Labo at luckyscent, who conveniently offer samples. Hopefully, they'll mail to Australia.

[deadjailorrocknroll]

thank you, katy...

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Thanks skippitybeebop312! Your sn is fun to say!

[Boxerella1]

ROFL I love your videos your soooo friggin funny and hot at the same time GO GIRL!!!!!!!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Thanks, lady!!

[MsMisfits]

lol I love you videos but you all ways leave me thinking, "Sooo, that means it smells good right??" I can never tell heheh.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Well, as I said in the vid, I love deep, animally fragrances, so the more "butt" the better, in this case. I love how Labdanum 18 smells on me!

[rachelbducky]

ok????

[kissy7fur]

Thanks for another great review Katie. This one definitely goes on my to do list.

I am anxious to hear your thoughts on The Party in Manhattan. I am in frag-ho lust-it certainly is too naughty to be real love! And too expensive to be more lofty than secret self indulgence. Yes, I'll buy a bottle-but I'm not telling!!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I just experienced this one, and was astonished that it smelled like an unwashed Acqua di Parma's Profumo - a very rich and dense floral with animalic aspects, with extra helpings of "roooten croootch", as my viewer kokofemme would say! This one starts the party without you!

[salemaydyn]

Nice review! Very informative! Thanks!

[PinkLeather]

You really know how to break down a fragrance and describe the essences in a way that gives the fragrance a personality.

[joyandcrown]

"right up my furry alley"  naughty hehhelol

[bsubassbaby2]

ha ummmm i dunno about this one!

[tadcoughenour]

I'm ever so lucky to have been personally escorted to Le Labo by La Puckrik herself and can vouch for the balm route. Especially considering that I'm rather new to the fragrance world (also due to HRH Puckrik!) and LOVED the labdanum 18! Dangerous & Sexy - bring it on!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

It was a fun field trip, wasn't it, Tad? That was the day I discovered that Le Labo had balm versions of all their frags.

The balms are recommended for those who like to keep their personal fragrance a little more...personal.

[Cr4zYH3aD]

My god, what's the price of this perfume ? It seems really good !

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Check the LeLabo website. It starts at $52 and goes up from there.

[NikitaSmith01]

Ohhh now dangerous and sexy.. that sounds like something I'm in for. esp if its anything like hypnotic poison.. I had a sample size of that and used it sparingly becasue I loved it so much

[81endo]

Ok, I have a question. You keep asking "do you have the EDP or EDT" when someone's asks, about a fragrance.

Now, shouldn't they be like, one more concentrated, lasting longer, the other not that concentrated, not lasting that much, but anyway, smell the same? Isn't the composition the same?

[izayus11]

Yes, in theory, but not in reality. In my experience, some houses change their formulation between one concentration and another. This is specially true for Guerlain, and perhaps also true for Chanel (at least I smell it that way). I guess it depends on the fragrance and the person, but I generally prefer EdT over EdPs. Go figure.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

izayus11 is correct. Even when a house stays true to the character between the edt, edp and the parfum, the shift of concentration will often emphasise different nuances of the fragrance. And often, a different concentration will be offered decades after the original formulation, allowing the house to sneak in a complete overhaul. Examples of this are Chanel Cristalle edt ('74) and the edp ('93), and Chanel No. 5 edt (circa 50s) and the edp (circa 80s).

The differences can be extreme!

[mexiadri20]

intriguing

[lindashila]

Sounds sensual, I haven't tried it, but it reminded me of hipnotic poison, which I have loved for three whole years.

Don't like the writing on the bottle though.

Hey, Katie, what do those candles behind you smell like? they do create a cozy atmosphere.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Just regular candles - no fragrance. I don't like any fragrance in my environment, except for nature and perfumes!

[MakeupMakesMeeHappy]

Hey Katie! Love the review, as always. Could you review Anais Anais by Cacharel? THANK YOU!!

[izayus11]

"Musk, Civet and castoreum known to their friends as deer butt cat butt and beaver butt." LOL! :D

The cumming in Rose 31 tells me that Le Labo knows how to handle dirty. Perhaps it is time to try this one.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

LOL! Do you mean "cumin" in Rose 31? Because the "cumming" would be the secret ingredient in Le Labo's Los Angeles exclusive, "Musc 25".

[tokyoxjapanxfan]

would you recommend this for men? or is it too feminine? it's really intriguing!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Fabrice, one of the co-founders of LeLabo, describes Labdanum 18 as "feminine", but I know 2 men personally who love to wear it. And just to balance that out, my perfume pen-pal Dan has tried to wear it, but has pronounced it "too bold and too girlie" for him to wear convincingly.

But Le Labo also offer balm versions of their fragrances that are softer versions of the edp's, so that might give an option.

[LoveAtFirstSmell]

The bottle looks like it has your name typed on it. But its hard to tell in youtube quality.

There seems to be a lot of "butt" in this perfume. I'd be interested in smelling it. Not 'cause I like smelling butt, because of your description.

Do you know where I can get a sample?

[CarefreeGirlie]

The bottle looks like a container you'd find in a medical lab that tests out poisons.

[nighthawknina86]

it would be so funny if someone who still lived at home got this and one of their parents saw the bottle and freaked out!  that'd be awesome, but im weird like that'

[nighthawknina86]

i love the bottle!

[doremifasoinlove]

I don't know if this scent would be my thing or not. I would have to see how it smelled on me. I like the retro packaging though.

And Katie your reviews always make me smile! can't wait for the next one!

Have you done a review for Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana? I would be interested in how you describe that scent, I like it alot, I swear their is some pine in it...but maybe im wrong.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I shall put it on my "to do" list.

[BarrysDaughter]

looks like a bottle of cough medicine lol

:0)

xxxJoolsxxx

[LVdancerbabe]

I love deep seductive dangerous smells. I need more, and don't know where to find them. Thanks for the help. =) You are smellavision.

[littlelady8080]

Oooo this sounds like another one for me,,,,Thank you Katie,,

[rachfaceeee]

i love the bottle

[Hejsansvejsan3]

Sounds good, but the bottle isn't so glamorous...

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I guess Le Labo save all the glamor for the juice. The bottles, like the stores themselves, have that "industrial chic" vibe.

[Hejsansvejsan3]

Yeah, that's kind of cool :)

[KENKENNIFF]

Except if youre like my medicated friends, this bottle would get lost among all their magic "pain go bye bye" potions.

[Hejsansvejsan3]

Haha :)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Better to overdose on perfume than pills.

[gnitegracie]

interesting how it gets "cleaner".

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Yes it is. I don't get it. But I like it.