Added: 2 years ago
From: HHOPWR
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  • citric acid is much more suitable for this reaction.

  • How is it going with you and this project Larry?

    Greets, iT

  • I have not had a second to work on the new project since this Cash for Clunkers program started. Being in the automotive business and the feeding frenzy that the program has started consumes every second of my time. As soon as this quiets down I will get going again.

    Larry

  • Did you see cummins new ixs engines to use urea as a way to clean up emmissions I have a friend with a new 2010 and he is driving one, I drive a 2009,with clen burn. I can idle any where in the country ,air comming in is as clean as comming out they say.HAPPY NEW YEAR.

  • Larry, I'm using 1/4 " stainless end plates, I'm also using a full sheet of neoprene between the end plates and the end cell plates ...except for the the hole around the fitting area,they are isolated from the cell. My in and out fittings are on the top sinular to BB Smack Design.

  • the powder coating I have checked wasnt conductive, was it metal flake?

  • iI agree normal powder coating is non conductive but the ceramic powder coating like goes on exhaust systems has some componet that will conduct electricity. Normal heat fired ceramic like coats pots and pans is also non conductive. That is not the same stuff the ceramic powder coat with.

  • good job!!!!!!!!

  • possibly ceramic powder coating instead. Been wanting to give it a try myself.

  • I checked out Ceramic powdercoating. It is mostly for automotive headers and such. It is conductive. There must be something that they add to it.

    Larry

  • use clear pvc, its better. with chemicals. sucky, man thats tough.

  • Sorry about the Lexan, at least you know what not to use, and now so do I.

    Thanks Larry for all your hard work and money you put in to all these test I love watching your videos and rating them.

    Have a good Day see you later john...

  • I'm sorry, I meant before USING a cell [with KOH], I run it with citric acid.

    Also, a pump (~1lpm) is adviced to get an even result. With old cells, you might want to switch polarity to get pos and neg clean. With a new cell, I only prepare it in the polarity it will run afterwards.

  • Thanks for all your testing, much appreciated!

    I strongly suggest a method to clean your cells: Run it with about 1 1/2 cups of hot citric acid for a while. The acid will soak up all the iron, leaving your plates much cleaner!

    Before assembling a cell, I run it in citric acid for half an hour, at 2.5V/gap. The overvoltage will push out the top layer of iron and make for a cleaner cell afterwards.

    The acid will turn very dark in a short time, don't worry! Plates will be clean.

  • can't wait to see what results you get.

    I am going to experiment with nylon cutting boards as a material to make shims, I have some ideas for how and where to put the holes for the E-lyte in a way that I do not have to drill holes into my plates. I am going to make the shims longer then my plates, and squeeze them between the end plates as well, I will use some acrylic sheets to put between the gaskets and shims to fill up the room for the stainless plates so I can clamp it down real tight.

  • Can't wait to see it. As you know I am a big advocate of no holes in the plates. I am using these plates because I do not have enough of the no hole plates to work with urea.

    Larry

  • I bought myself a hand held router today. I'm going to make similar shims like you did. I'm using my old plates, they have two holes but I am going to work around them. It is a bit more work, but I can't afford new plates. For me It's just an experiment to make it as efficient as I possibly can with the materials I already have or that I can afford to buy. As long as it holds up and it is safe. Maybe I can make a heater, that would be nice and useful. I also bought a small solar trickle charger.

  • Why not use several layers of different materials as end plates ? I was thinking of two layers of nylon plates with a stainless plate between them.

    Then the danger for a shortcut is gone, but you do have strong end plates. I am just thinking out loud.

    Greets, iT

  • Yep , sorta like cleanup of a battlfield.

  • glad you not using urine... Urea is getting easier to get by the day. They are ramping up production for the diesel urea injection. most farming store already have it. the whole pee thing is just strange to me. why would anyone put up with the smell for liquid containing less the 5% urea. Your approach is a better one imho. Good luck to you and your tests.

    Btw I did the powder coat thing a year ago. Didnt work for me but they also have much better coatings now . it didn't stick to plate.

  • I have since decided to just skip the powdercoating thing. Many have told me that it will just come off. I have never had any luch getting anything to stick.

    Larry

  • Good to know. I had the same problem over and over. I thought I was just tightening my bolts too much.

    Thanks for sharing

  • Why use anything but Stainless Steel for end plates?

    Look at the Amoeba cells (6+ MMW) for a permanent solution for end plates.

  • I am just concerned with conductivity with stainless end plates. Other than that they would be perfect.

  • The end plates are just as conductive as the interior plates

    If they are made thicker (as is the usual case) they conduct much bettter.

    No cracking, no temperature problem, and if you make them negative, mount the cell to the car chassis.

  • maybe you should look into some 3m product. they are an amazing company.also talk to some car paint specialist. i have used epoxy on stainless and it sticks very well.

  • I have tried 3M paint protection film. It is great stuff but comes off in the cell.

  • Thanks for sharing your experience!!

  • Good stuff Larry ...

    I can say from experience that Lexan doesn't do well with naoh either ..

    I am planning on testing urea also in the bery near future , been reading a bunch on it its seems promising ..

  • I thought I would share with you my experience with powder coated plates. I use a very expensive Epoxy Powder Coat around the holes on my last cell and with in tree weeks it detached from the plates. I even sanded around and in the plates with 30 grit to give the Powder coat something to stick to but with no luck. Like your bed liner material the Powder Coat didn't break down but it didn' t stick at all. I posted a video on my channel of how it all work out,

  • Thanks I will watch it before I spend the money

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