@benolsonrocks No I did not, Sir. Just be very careful with what you are installing into the hulls at all times! Oh...now that I am thinking about it. I "did" modify the metal ring that holds the hulls in place as they rotate from one station to the other. Cut the ring in half, and installed thumb screws, so I could remove hulls which I messed-up. But that is another story...and it does not correlate to the PW.
@spritrocks No...I did not modify anything. The completed shells naturally drop out of the lower rear laft side of the press. But I did build the wooden box that the press mounts on, which receives the completed shells. *smiles*
@spritrocks No...I did not modify anything. The completed shells naturally drop out of the lower rear laft side of the press. But I did build the wooden box that the press mounts on, which receives the completed shells. *smiles*
@dribbledunk You know, I never really thought about it. I cast my own lead ingots and sabot slugs. The hulls I used over and over (about 9 times), the primers are cheap when purchased in bricks of 5000, and the wads are super cheap..Hmmm...never really thought about it. But I "can"tell you this...I save HUGE MONEY when making custom, home-rolled slugs, verses purchasing them. The shotshells I purchase from Wal-Mart. (Federal bulk packs - $25.00 per hundred shells).
The first station (1a) is to resize the brass base if you have one on the shotshell. If you do not, then you do not need to resize it, so just go to the second station. (1b). But if you "do" need to resize thebrass base, then you have to do both of the stations (1a & ab) because that is the process to get the shotshell to the priming station.
isnt the second step you do right before the live priming the old primer remover? if so, whats the point of doing the first step that you do in the video?
Ray, Most excellent video!. Are you molding your own sabots, or do you have a source for purchase?. Also curious as to what make wad your using is it 1oz or?. I've found most of your other recipe specs. from your earlier replys.
@smokehouse55 Thank you. And, "Yes"...I do cast my own slugs. (I smelt the lead, pour them into ingots, and then cast them as well). As for the wads, I am using WAA12F114. Or Claybusters as well. The slugs, when weighed, are closer to 1 1/4 oz than to 1 1/8 oz slugs. Heavy beasties!
nice work! i dont know why most everyone thinks its a race to load rounds. if im that big of a hurry i'll just buy a few crates. I have a lee and its one at a time. but i think this is a really fun system with those who enjoy a assembly line aproach. longs your doing it your way and having fun.........then who really cares becouse thats what its about its need, not speed
@glynamus I am a 3-gunner, and some of my local matches go ballistic on the slug count. Home-rolling slugs is a HUGE money saver. Not so much with target loads, but very economical with slugs. I also cast my own slugs, so even more money saved. *smiles*
@bobcrawman34 I was doing it slow for y'all to see. On top of that, the camera was mounted on a tripod, which was in front of the press. I had to awkwardly reach around the camera in order to show y'all the steps in doing this progressively on the Hornady 366 auto. So you think you can do this faster on a Lee Load All, huh? Thank you for your edifying and intelligent comment. I am sure it helped the other viewers, and changed their lives for the better.
Yo. I'm a novice shooter, and I don't know too much about ballistics on a detailed technical level. The shotgun I own can't fire slugs, but eventually I plan on purchasing one that does. As of now I don't know if I'm actually going to rechamber ammunition on a regular basis, but regardless, where can I learn all I need to learn that would permit me to rechamber without killing myself or wrecking my shotgun? Besides load data, that is. I want to know everything.
i've been searching the last few months on what shotshell reloader to purchase. i've chosen to purchase the hornady 366 primarily because of the how this reloader brings the shell plate upward. i've had many experiences with the downward motion of other reloaders causing problems with the shot/powder hopper breaking or making a crease. also, you can sit down and pull the lever vs. standing and pushing downward on the handle. the reason for my decision is primarily because of your post. thx
@fishbiodadX4 Glad I was of help. The Hornady 366 is a great shotshell reloader. I have done a few modifications to it...and the first should be to get the spring-loaded primer rod. (Sorry, cannot remember the correct name). If you remind me later, I can tell you about a few more mods when you receive yours. Look around and be patient. I picked mine up for around $250.00 from a retired clay shooter at a gun club. You may also want to keep an eye-out on a Ponsness Warren..
@RaymondMillbrae i just picked up one on ebay for $270. i purchased the spring loaded primer rod, but i am having a hard time getting the primer to seat fully when i have all stations full. i have read the instructions and they said the diameter of a nickel between the top screw and rod thread when pressed against a supplied bushing. i still can not get the primer to seat fully even after many adjustments. do you have any suggestions?
@jmstk Yes...they are safe. Just make sure you are using well-known shotshell load data to begin with. According to the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Handbook (5th edition), my Lyman 525-grain sabot slugs, loaded with 26-grains of Universal Clays, and Remmy Premier STS hulls, are producing 10,300 PSI's. Well within safety levels. On top of that, I even recuced the powder charge by 10% for low recoil loads for competition.
@Bbkflys In the Hornady manual, the steps are as such: Station 1A=Resize/deprime; Station 1=Deprime Only; Station 2=Prime; Station 3=Drop Powder; Station 4=Wad Seating; Station 5=Loading Shot; Station 6=Start Crimp; Station 7=Crimp; Station 8=Taper Crimp. If I did not do it by the book, it was because it was a home-made SPONTANEOUS video for yall. *wink*
I have been casting the lyman and the lee drive key slug for over a year now. The lee slug likes the Waa12's. I found the lymas do better with the harder resin wads like the Waa12F114's and I got a hand full of free Waa12R's from claybuster ( Really nice people) they did better than the F114's. Just had to put a fiber wad underneath to take up the space. Wish somebody would make the sabot halves for them like the lightfield slugs have. the wad pettles still crinkle no mater what wad I use
I use WAA12F114 wads. Pure lead is also fine with these slugs, as it is the shape and weight that help them to fly true. I am now casting my own slugs as well.
@bigjd60 I use WAA12F114 wads. Pure lead is also fine with these slugs, as it is the shape and weight that help them to fly true. I am now casting my own slugs as well.
I have recently started casting my own Lyman 525-grain slugs. I have learned that these "in-wad" slugs need to be loaded hot in order to remain accurate. Whe loaded slow - for low rcoil slugs - they work great at around 20-yards max. But go any further - like 50 to 100 yards - and your groups will open up like a blind man throwing a frisbee. But to answer your question...I can keep them within a 4" inch group at 100-yards using my 18" inch, smooth bore, Remington 870P.
Yes you can. But you would need to remove the shell, as they would ned to be placed in there individually...as well as getting filled with shot buffer material as well. Too much hassle, in my opinion.
You would need to change out the dies and a few other parts. But, YES...it can be done with this machine. Your best bet would be to purchase a machine already set up for 20-guage.
Great videos. I'm interested in buying a press to load 00 buckshot and maybe #4 buckshot for home defense. Do you plan on making a video on that? Also, where can I buy the Hornady Versetite wads used in the Critical Defense and TAP line of shotshells?
I have a posness warren 800c and I would like to do the same thing.
Did you have to adjust your setup at all?
benolsonrocks 1 month ago
@benolsonrocks No I did not, Sir. Just be very careful with what you are installing into the hulls at all times! Oh...now that I am thinking about it. I "did" modify the metal ring that holds the hulls in place as they rotate from one station to the other. Cut the ring in half, and installed thumb screws, so I could remove hulls which I messed-up. But that is another story...and it does not correlate to the PW.
RaymondMillbrae 1 month ago
Nice!!! Did you modify the press to drop the shells out the bottom?
spritrocks 1 month ago
@spritrocks No...I did not modify anything. The completed shells naturally drop out of the lower rear laft side of the press. But I did build the wooden box that the press mounts on, which receives the completed shells. *smiles*
RaymondMillbrae 1 month ago
@spritrocks No...I did not modify anything. The completed shells naturally drop out of the lower rear laft side of the press. But I did build the wooden box that the press mounts on, which receives the completed shells. *smiles*
RaymondMillbrae 1 month ago
how much does it cost you to reload each shell?
dribbledunk 2 months ago
@dribbledunk You know, I never really thought about it. I cast my own lead ingots and sabot slugs. The hulls I used over and over (about 9 times), the primers are cheap when purchased in bricks of 5000, and the wads are super cheap..Hmmm...never really thought about it. But I "can"tell you this...I save HUGE MONEY when making custom, home-rolled slugs, verses purchasing them. The shotshells I purchase from Wal-Mart. (Federal bulk packs - $25.00 per hundred shells).
RaymondMillbrae 2 months ago
@RaymondMillbrae By the way, I am a competitive 3-gunner. So I go through boo-koo shotshells...even during practice.
RaymondMillbrae 2 months ago
The first station (1a) is to resize the brass base if you have one on the shotshell. If you do not, then you do not need to resize it, so just go to the second station. (1b). But if you "do" need to resize thebrass base, then you have to do both of the stations (1a & ab) because that is the process to get the shotshell to the priming station.
RaymondMillbrae 2 months ago
isnt the second step you do right before the live priming the old primer remover? if so, whats the point of doing the first step that you do in the video?
jpsieben7 2 months ago
Ray, Many Thanks for the reply + info. Being from MN, Ballistic Products is my go to
for reloading and I see they stock the slug mold.
All Good,
Don;
smokehouse55 4 months ago
@smokehouse55 Make sure you get a good solid mold. I purchased the Lyman steel mold. The aluminum ones are, "Gnahh".
RaymondMillbrae 4 months ago
@RaymondMillbrae Again Many Thanks for the info Ray!.
smokehouse55 4 months ago
@smokehouse55 You are more than welcome, shooter.
RaymondMillbrae 4 months ago
Ray, Most excellent video!. Are you molding your own sabots, or do you have a source for purchase?. Also curious as to what make wad your using is it 1oz or?. I've found most of your other recipe specs. from your earlier replys.
All Good,
Don;
smokehouse55 4 months ago
@smokehouse55 Thank you. And, "Yes"...I do cast my own slugs. (I smelt the lead, pour them into ingots, and then cast them as well). As for the wads, I am using WAA12F114. Or Claybusters as well. The slugs, when weighed, are closer to 1 1/4 oz than to 1 1/8 oz slugs. Heavy beasties!
RaymondMillbrae 4 months ago
nice work! i dont know why most everyone thinks its a race to load rounds. if im that big of a hurry i'll just buy a few crates. I have a lee and its one at a time. but i think this is a really fun system with those who enjoy a assembly line aproach. longs your doing it your way and having fun.........then who really cares becouse thats what its about its need, not speed
glynamus 5 months ago
@glynamus I am a 3-gunner, and some of my local matches go ballistic on the slug count. Home-rolling slugs is a HUGE money saver. Not so much with target loads, but very economical with slugs. I also cast my own slugs, so even more money saved. *smiles*
RaymondMillbrae 5 months ago
wow i could do this faster with a lee load all this is an all most useless peice of equipment
bobcrawman34 11 months ago
@bobcrawman34 I was doing it slow for y'all to see. On top of that, the camera was mounted on a tripod, which was in front of the press. I had to awkwardly reach around the camera in order to show y'all the steps in doing this progressively on the Hornady 366 auto. So you think you can do this faster on a Lee Load All, huh? Thank you for your edifying and intelligent comment. I am sure it helped the other viewers, and changed their lives for the better.
RaymondMillbrae 11 months ago
Yo. I'm a novice shooter, and I don't know too much about ballistics on a detailed technical level. The shotgun I own can't fire slugs, but eventually I plan on purchasing one that does. As of now I don't know if I'm actually going to rechamber ammunition on a regular basis, but regardless, where can I learn all I need to learn that would permit me to rechamber without killing myself or wrecking my shotgun? Besides load data, that is. I want to know everything.
ZeroVersionTwo 1 year ago
i've been searching the last few months on what shotshell reloader to purchase. i've chosen to purchase the hornady 366 primarily because of the how this reloader brings the shell plate upward. i've had many experiences with the downward motion of other reloaders causing problems with the shot/powder hopper breaking or making a crease. also, you can sit down and pull the lever vs. standing and pushing downward on the handle. the reason for my decision is primarily because of your post. thx
fishbiodadX4 1 year ago
@fishbiodadX4 Glad I was of help. The Hornady 366 is a great shotshell reloader. I have done a few modifications to it...and the first should be to get the spring-loaded primer rod. (Sorry, cannot remember the correct name). If you remind me later, I can tell you about a few more mods when you receive yours. Look around and be patient. I picked mine up for around $250.00 from a retired clay shooter at a gun club. You may also want to keep an eye-out on a Ponsness Warren..
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
@RaymondMillbrae i found one for $277 and purchased it. i will arrive prob next week. yeah, i you don't mind please inform me of your mods.
fishbiodadX4 1 year ago
@RaymondMillbrae i just picked up one on ebay for $270. i purchased the spring loaded primer rod, but i am having a hard time getting the primer to seat fully when i have all stations full. i have read the instructions and they said the diameter of a nickel between the top screw and rod thread when pressed against a supplied bushing. i still can not get the primer to seat fully even after many adjustments. do you have any suggestions?
fishbiodadX4 1 year ago
Is It Safe To Load Slugs in shells with such low base brass?
jmstk 1 year ago
@jmstk Yes...they are safe. Just make sure you are using well-known shotshell load data to begin with. According to the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Handbook (5th edition), my Lyman 525-grain sabot slugs, loaded with 26-grains of Universal Clays, and Remmy Premier STS hulls, are producing 10,300 PSI's. Well within safety levels. On top of that, I even recuced the powder charge by 10% for low recoil loads for competition.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
how come you dont count moving the shell from de-prime to prime a step?
Bbkflys 1 year ago
@Bbkflys In the Hornady manual, the steps are as such: Station 1A=Resize/deprime; Station 1=Deprime Only; Station 2=Prime; Station 3=Drop Powder; Station 4=Wad Seating; Station 5=Loading Shot; Station 6=Start Crimp; Station 7=Crimp; Station 8=Taper Crimp. If I did not do it by the book, it was because it was a home-made SPONTANEOUS video for yall. *wink*
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
whats that stuff you put on top of the slugs?
534231534231 1 year ago
@534231534231 There is nothing on top of the slugs. They get pressed into place with needle nose pliers, and then the hull gets crimped shut.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
this is how you spell part not partt..lol
534231534231 1 year ago
@534231534231 It was s typo, and I didn't feel it was important enough to correct.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
do you think you can show a vid of you slug casting process
MonkeyDog500 1 year ago
@MonkeyDog500 I am considering it.
Maybe sometime soon.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
Great thank you
dithbmine1 1 year ago
@dithbmine1 You are welcome, shooter.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
I have been casting the lyman and the lee drive key slug for over a year now. The lee slug likes the Waa12's. I found the lymas do better with the harder resin wads like the Waa12F114's and I got a hand full of free Waa12R's from claybuster ( Really nice people) they did better than the F114's. Just had to put a fiber wad underneath to take up the space. Wish somebody would make the sabot halves for them like the lightfield slugs have. the wad pettles still crinkle no mater what wad I use
bigjd60 1 year ago
I use WAA12F114 wads. Pure lead is also fine with these slugs, as it is the shape and weight that help them to fly true. I am now casting my own slugs as well.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
what type of wad and lead alloy do you use?
bigjd60 1 year ago
@bigjd60 I use WAA12F114 wads. Pure lead is also fine with these slugs, as it is the shape and weight that help them to fly true. I am now casting my own slugs as well.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
what kind of accuracy do you get with those sabot slugs?Ive thought about casting some someday.
monsterman27 1 year ago
I have recently started casting my own Lyman 525-grain slugs. I have learned that these "in-wad" slugs need to be loaded hot in order to remain accurate. Whe loaded slow - for low rcoil slugs - they work great at around 20-yards max. But go any further - like 50 to 100 yards - and your groups will open up like a blind man throwing a frisbee. But to answer your question...I can keep them within a 4" inch group at 100-yards using my 18" inch, smooth bore, Remington 870P.
RaymondMillbrae 1 year ago
and can u put in those bb thing in normal shells?
crazyboy123252 2 years ago
@crazyboy123252
Yes you can. But you would need to remove the shell, as they would ned to be placed in there individually...as well as getting filled with shot buffer material as well. Too much hassle, in my opinion.
RaymondMillbrae 2 years ago
ya that probly would ill try slugs i havent tryed those
crazyboy123252 2 years ago
does this same one work with 20 gauge
crazyboy123252 2 years ago
@crazyboy123252
You would need to change out the dies and a few other parts. But, YES...it can be done with this machine. Your best bet would be to purchase a machine already set up for 20-guage.
RaymondMillbrae 2 years ago
ok thanks just making shore lol
crazyboy123252 2 years ago
Great videos. I'm interested in buying a press to load 00 buckshot and maybe #4 buckshot for home defense. Do you plan on making a video on that? Also, where can I buy the Hornady Versetite wads used in the Critical Defense and TAP line of shotshells?
FUBAR956 2 years ago
Thanks...and you're welcome.
I have never seen an actual video on the Hornady 366 Auto, so I thought I would jump in and make one for shooters to see.
RaymondMillbrae 2 years ago
Great Job! Very well done! Thanks for the video.
Hangar1Pilot 2 years ago