Thanks for this tutorial it is extremely helpful. Just curious if you used the same mortart mix in both layers? They were both the quik-crete sand topping mix? Thanks so much!
Hi! me again! I have a few more questions. He also used concrete vs. mortar. Is there a difference? and I also noticed in the video, you placed mesh in the first layer of mortar, but not the 2nd layer-Why is this? Thanks so much for you help!
@carmegkin Mortar is made from water, cement and sand, whereas concrete is made from water, cement, sand and chipped rock. You use a mortar in the shower pan so that there is no risk of sharp edges on the dried cement mortar bed to cut into the membrane liner. We don't place mesh in the top layer since it could potentiall poke a hole in the membrane liner.
I just came across your videos and they are excellent! I have a question for you. My fiance is installing a tiled shower and was going to reuse the drain from the old shower. He poured the first layer of concrete with drain in place. then I came across this videos and realized it doesn't have weep holes. Now we are getting the proper drain, but obviously we can not install it to the plywood. Is it okay to install the drain on top of the concrete, then continue with the membrane and 2nd layer?
@carmegkin The purpose of the weep holes is to allow any water that gets in under the tiles to have an exit path to the drain. The weep holes are effectively above the liner. You need to make sure that the drain assembly connects into the PVC J-trap under the shower pan. I'm not sure what you mean by installing the drain on top of the concrete. At this point I just go with what you've got.
@HomeAdditionPlus I'm not sure of proper terminology, but in this video I see that the drain is screwed to the sub-floor and then the first layer of mortar is placed. So what I was asking is can you screw the drain into concrete, then place your membrane, expose weep holes, and continue with a final layer of mortar? I'm assuming your saying it is okay as long as the drain assembly can reach the J-trap? Thanks so much for your help!
Used this pan liner method for years and worked great when we used to float walls back in the pre cement board days. I started using a paitable membrane with fiberglass over the pre float after cement wall board install. Eliminates water wiking up board and keeps corners from kicking due to liner folds. Also makes curb install much easier. But theres definatly 100 different ways to do a shower pan, and this is definitly a tired method for a d.i.y.'er Thanks for the video!
Hi, Mark. Quick question---how do you attach the 15# felt paper and metal lath to a concrete foundation so it doesn't move around when you trowel in the mortar and float it? Thanks.
@WegnerClan I normaly just lay the felt paper and lath flat on concrete slabs, and trowel on the mortar. If you'd like, you could use a construciton adhesive (e.g. Liquid Nails) and a brick or two to hold the felt paper and lath in place until the adhesive dries.
Fantastic video, easy to understand. I would add that you are very patient answering the same questions over and over. I am wondering if the weight of the cement might be a problem for my own bathroom, it is a manufactured home, with a basement foundation. I suppose it will depend on what I find when I tear out the tub as far as my subfloor goes.
Mark, I appreciate very much that you went out of your way to create this "how to" video on building a shower pan. Frankly, I didn't know anything about building one and you showed me everything that I needed to know in 5 minutes here. The shower pan has been completed using your step by step video and it looks great. Thank you again!
@clapperbells The membrane liner is sandwiched in between two mortar layers. The felt paper helps as a moisture barrier and most importantly prevents the wicking away of moisture form the first mortar layer as it cures.
@djkingpersia It wouldn't hurt, but probably not necessary. Any water that could damage the plywood would much more quickly result in a noticable water leak.
Great Video. I was just wondering, do you ever have an issue with curb swelling or shrinking and cracking the tile or grout just from temperature variation? I stopped building wood curbs 8 years ago just for that reason.
@Alltiletube No, I've never experienced curb swelling or shrinking due to temperature variation. The temperature in most house varies from 65 degrees to 75 degrees, at least where I live. Possibly the small temperature spread is why I have not seen this issue ever.
A quick questions re: installing a shower pan directly on top of a concrete sub floor. I purchased your installation guide but it doesn't address this:
How do you recommend attaching the felt paper and wire mesh to the concrete?
Thanks in advance for your assistance and feedback!
@TheLureConsulting. The Shower Pan Ebook also works for a concrete slab. The felt paper should still be used as it helps retard moisture wicking away from the mortar to the concrete slab while the mortar cures. The wire mesh should still be used, however it needs to be perfectly flat. The mesh acts similarly to rebar.
Thanks for getting back to me. Just one follow up, why is the felt paper and metal lath attached to a WOOD sub floor and not to a concrete slab? Thanks.
@TheLureConsulting Simply because you can. Thus you don't need to worry about the felt paper moving around while you pour in the mortar. Likewise you don't have to worry about the metal lath sticking up out of the mortar. These will be concerns pouring the mortar onto the concrete slab.
I do appreiate the continued dialogue. For those of us who have never done this before this type of reasoning is confusing. The felt paper and metal lath could be attached (e.g., using a powder-accuated tool and nail with washer)---do you not recommend this for some reason to avoid the movement of the paper and lath as you describe? Thanks.
@TheLureConsulting The felt paper provides no structural value. It just prevents moisture wicking away too quickly from the mortar to either the wood or concrete subfloor. By preventing the wicking of moisture the mortar can set up better to create a stronger pan. The lath works to help hold the mortar together and does not necessarily need to be fastened to the subfloor. It just helps to do so so that you can be assured its laying flat and won't poke up through the mortar surface.
@HomeAdditionPlus I am an aspiring general contractor. I am 18 and already enrolled in a community college but i am only taking my generals. I am just wondering if there is any advice you could give me or any info you could provide me about how to gain on the job experience. Please i know it will be a hard and long journey but i am wlling to face the challeng because this is what i really want to do with my life and throough the grace of God anything is possible. Please and thankyou! Godbless
Perfect installation. We've been installing showers this way for years with no problems at all. I see some contractors putting the liner right on the flat floor then put in their mud bed, they look at me like I have two heads when I tell them their doing it wrong and I explain the right way. Hopefully more guys will see this video and learn the right way of doing a shower.
I am wanting to install a roll-in shower without the curb onto the concrete subfloor. The main bathroom will have a heated floor. Would I just extend the shower membrane to where the shower tile ends and transitions to the main bathroom floor?
@califmonster Yes you need the felt paper and the wire mesh. The felt paper prevents wicking of moisture from wet mortar on to concrete. The wire mesh acts as rebar to strengthen the mortar
If I'm installing directly onto a concreted foundation, do I need to lay down a piece of wood as a subfloor or do I just put the first mortar bed on top of the slab? If I do put down the wood subfloor, do I just caulk it to the slab?
Also, I see you didn't put up a vapor barrier on the walls, other sources have said a plastic barrier is necessary behind the cement board. Please advise.
@HomeAdditionPlus Great, thanks for the info! Las night I pulled up the old pan and the original pre-slope mortar level is already there connected to the slab though its a little rough and uneven. Can I use that existing base as my pre-slope and just add some mud to it to make it smooth? Or should I jackhammer it out of there? Also, there's some water damage to the horizontal 2x4's (sole plate) that lie underneath the vertical 2x4 framing, is there a way to replace those without a total demo?
Thanks for the great video, homeadditionplus. I have one question about the curb though. Is it on top of the added subfloor (3/4+1/2) or directly on top of the 1/4" subfloor? Thanks in advance.
I'm going to attempt this install on a slab floor. What steps are needed to do this? Do I need to lay lath and a mortar base with the correct slope? If so how is the lath attached to the floor, and how much of the 2" ABS drain pipe should pertrude through the slab to give me the proper length for everything to work with the adjustable drain.
@ocndtjgf Yes, you do the same process with the slab. However, regarding the lath, you will just need to make sure it is perfectly flat prior to pouring the pre-slope. You may want to look at buying my ebook on how to install a shower pan membrane liner to get more details. See HomeAdditionPlus(dot)com
EXCELLENT VIDEO. I've been searching for 2 days for the details. This was great. I also liked the comment on weep holes using scrungie sponge. Thanks so much. gcn
@jrodmac21 Its not useless. Its prevent mortar from clogging up the weep holes and preventing water to drain out through them in the event of a crack in the tile/grout and final layer of mortar.
You need to maintain the slope on the second layer. Nailing the top of the membrane liner will not be a problem unless the curb is higher than the top of the membrane liner and the shower drain is clogged. No, use the same mud mixture for both layers.
why slope both mud layers, and can't you use backer board on the side and top of the step in place of using mortar?
Is nailing the top really going to pose a leaking problem?
Is there a difference in the mix% for the two mud layers? when my contractor renovated my bathroom, he made a 2/4 and plywood platform and lead pan it.
Rather than use pebbles to prevent concrete from plugging the small drain holes, use a plastic 'scrubbie' such as you would use to clean dishes in the sink. Take a knife and poke a hole in middle, then work it out till it is large enough to fit over the drain pipe. Screw down your drain to the desired height, trim any excess. You will have created in effect, a plastic donut.
@jesseacheson No. Putting lath in the second mortar layer puts the membrane liner at risk of being punctured. Putting lath in the base layer is all that is needed to ensure a rigid mortar base surface that won't crack if there is any type of flexing on the wood subfloor.
@Biglurp1 Unfortunately its water under the bridge at this point. The lath is meant to help hold the mortar together better, simliar to rebar. The felt paper is used to prevent the moisture from wicking away too fast during the curing of the mortar. The slower the water evaporates from the mortar the stronger the bond.
forgive me for being dense in the world of carpentry but is the subfloor just your regular flooring? or is your 3/4 inch subloor another piece of plywood along with another 1/2 inch piece of plywood on top of your regular flooring?
Yes, the felt paper helps to prevent the wicking away of moisture from the wet mortar to the subfloor (wood or concrete). Yes, the metal lath is necessary to add strength to the mortar. Please see my ebook for details at my website.
Glad I found your video. I would have missed the silicone part! I have my pre-slope in. What mixture do you use for the final slope? I have portland and sand sitting on my deck to mix, but I have no idea how much to mix up. My area is 4x5.
what exactly is under the felt paper? do you have sheet rock, and any sort of adhesive adhering to the felt, or is the felt attached directly to the framing?
Being a tile guy for the last five years and learning from a good old boy that has owned and operated his own tile business for 35 years, I have a certain respect for those who know what they are doing. I will say that your shower will stand for a few years and that you have done more than most tile guys out there. I will also say that there are easier more sure proof ways out there. If I were you I would check out the laticrete waterproofing system. Warrantied for life.
This is a great help. Definitely one of the best videos on the subject. I do wonder why he didn't waterproof the Durock with Redgard or something like KERDI. That's how the new generation of tile guys are doing things now.
Simply the most informative how to video for a shower install on youtube(trust me ive watched them all). There is no advertising, and its explained very well. I also love the fact that there is no part 1 and part 2. Very good job
Thanks for this tutorial it is extremely helpful. Just curious if you used the same mortart mix in both layers? They were both the quik-crete sand topping mix? Thanks so much!
mpwhat 1 week ago
@mpwhat Yes
HomeAdditionPlus 1 week ago
Hi! me again! I have a few more questions. He also used concrete vs. mortar. Is there a difference? and I also noticed in the video, you placed mesh in the first layer of mortar, but not the 2nd layer-Why is this? Thanks so much for you help!
carmegkin 1 week ago
@carmegkin Mortar is made from water, cement and sand, whereas concrete is made from water, cement, sand and chipped rock. You use a mortar in the shower pan so that there is no risk of sharp edges on the dried cement mortar bed to cut into the membrane liner. We don't place mesh in the top layer since it could potentiall poke a hole in the membrane liner.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 week ago
I just came across your videos and they are excellent! I have a question for you. My fiance is installing a tiled shower and was going to reuse the drain from the old shower. He poured the first layer of concrete with drain in place. then I came across this videos and realized it doesn't have weep holes. Now we are getting the proper drain, but obviously we can not install it to the plywood. Is it okay to install the drain on top of the concrete, then continue with the membrane and 2nd layer?
carmegkin 1 week ago
@carmegkin The purpose of the weep holes is to allow any water that gets in under the tiles to have an exit path to the drain. The weep holes are effectively above the liner. You need to make sure that the drain assembly connects into the PVC J-trap under the shower pan. I'm not sure what you mean by installing the drain on top of the concrete. At this point I just go with what you've got.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 week ago
@HomeAdditionPlus I'm not sure of proper terminology, but in this video I see that the drain is screwed to the sub-floor and then the first layer of mortar is placed. So what I was asking is can you screw the drain into concrete, then place your membrane, expose weep holes, and continue with a final layer of mortar? I'm assuming your saying it is okay as long as the drain assembly can reach the J-trap? Thanks so much for your help!
carmegkin 1 week ago
@carmegkin Yes, that should work.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 week ago
Awesome vid! I'm redoing the basement bathroom and I watch this vid at every step of the project to make sure I get it right.
zykopat 2 weeks ago
Used this pan liner method for years and worked great when we used to float walls back in the pre cement board days. I started using a paitable membrane with fiberglass over the pre float after cement wall board install. Eliminates water wiking up board and keeps corners from kicking due to liner folds. Also makes curb install much easier. But theres definatly 100 different ways to do a shower pan, and this is definitly a tired method for a d.i.y.'er Thanks for the video!
mavgolf4life 2 weeks ago
Hi, Mark. Quick question---how do you attach the 15# felt paper and metal lath to a concrete foundation so it doesn't move around when you trowel in the mortar and float it? Thanks.
WegnerClan 4 weeks ago in playlist SHOWER BASE
@WegnerClan I normaly just lay the felt paper and lath flat on concrete slabs, and trowel on the mortar. If you'd like, you could use a construciton adhesive (e.g. Liquid Nails) and a brick or two to hold the felt paper and lath in place until the adhesive dries.
HomeAdditionPlus 4 weeks ago
Fantastic video, easy to understand. I would add that you are very patient answering the same questions over and over. I am wondering if the weight of the cement might be a problem for my own bathroom, it is a manufactured home, with a basement foundation. I suppose it will depend on what I find when I tear out the tub as far as my subfloor goes.
michellesscrap 1 month ago
Mark, I appreciate very much that you went out of your way to create this "how to" video on building a shower pan. Frankly, I didn't know anything about building one and you showed me everything that I needed to know in 5 minutes here. The shower pan has been completed using your step by step video and it looks great. Thank you again!
jcmann01 1 month ago
Comment removed
clapperbells 1 month ago in playlist Favorite videos
@clapperbells The membrane liner is sandwiched in between two mortar layers. The felt paper helps as a moisture barrier and most importantly prevents the wicking away of moisture form the first mortar layer as it cures.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 month ago
@djkingpersia It wouldn't hurt, but probably not necessary. Any water that could damage the plywood would much more quickly result in a noticable water leak.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 month ago
thanks for the video, i'm in the process of doing my 1st poured pan, though i've done many preformed pans. Wish me luck!
thegunth63 1 month ago
@thegunth63 Good luck!!
HomeAdditionPlus 1 month ago
Great Video. I was just wondering, do you ever have an issue with curb swelling or shrinking and cracking the tile or grout just from temperature variation? I stopped building wood curbs 8 years ago just for that reason.
Alltiletube 1 month ago
@Alltiletube No, I've never experienced curb swelling or shrinking due to temperature variation. The temperature in most house varies from 65 degrees to 75 degrees, at least where I live. Possibly the small temperature spread is why I have not seen this issue ever.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 month ago
A quick questions re: installing a shower pan directly on top of a concrete sub floor. I purchased your installation guide but it doesn't address this:
How do you recommend attaching the felt paper and wire mesh to the concrete?
Thanks in advance for your assistance and feedback!
TheLureConsulting 2 months ago
@TheLureConsulting. The Shower Pan Ebook also works for a concrete slab. The felt paper should still be used as it helps retard moisture wicking away from the mortar to the concrete slab while the mortar cures. The wire mesh should still be used, however it needs to be perfectly flat. The mesh acts similarly to rebar.
HomeAdditionPlus 2 months ago
I understand the Shower Pan eBook applies to a concrete slab. However, you never addressed my question:
How do you recommend ATTACHING the felt paper and wire mesh to the concrete?
Thanks.
TheLureConsulting 2 months ago
@TheLureConsulting You don't. You simply lay the felt paper down on the concret slab, and the same for the mesh.
HomeAdditionPlus 2 months ago
Thanks for getting back to me. Just one follow up, why is the felt paper and metal lath attached to a WOOD sub floor and not to a concrete slab? Thanks.
TheLureConsulting 2 months ago
@TheLureConsulting Simply because you can. Thus you don't need to worry about the felt paper moving around while you pour in the mortar. Likewise you don't have to worry about the metal lath sticking up out of the mortar. These will be concerns pouring the mortar onto the concrete slab.
HomeAdditionPlus 2 months ago
I do appreiate the continued dialogue. For those of us who have never done this before this type of reasoning is confusing. The felt paper and metal lath could be attached (e.g., using a powder-accuated tool and nail with washer)---do you not recommend this for some reason to avoid the movement of the paper and lath as you describe? Thanks.
TheLureConsulting 2 months ago
@TheLureConsulting The felt paper provides no structural value. It just prevents moisture wicking away too quickly from the mortar to either the wood or concrete subfloor. By preventing the wicking of moisture the mortar can set up better to create a stronger pan. The lath works to help hold the mortar together and does not necessarily need to be fastened to the subfloor. It just helps to do so so that you can be assured its laying flat and won't poke up through the mortar surface.
HomeAdditionPlus 2 months ago
@HomeAdditionPlus I am an aspiring general contractor. I am 18 and already enrolled in a community college but i am only taking my generals. I am just wondering if there is any advice you could give me or any info you could provide me about how to gain on the job experience. Please i know it will be a hard and long journey but i am wlling to face the challeng because this is what i really want to do with my life and throough the grace of God anything is possible. Please and thankyou! Godbless
ballincat11 3 months ago
Perfect installation. We've been installing showers this way for years with no problems at all. I see some contractors putting the liner right on the flat floor then put in their mud bed, they look at me like I have two heads when I tell them their doing it wrong and I explain the right way. Hopefully more guys will see this video and learn the right way of doing a shower.
midlantic1 4 months ago
I am wanting to install a roll-in shower without the curb onto the concrete subfloor. The main bathroom will have a heated floor. Would I just extend the shower membrane to where the shower tile ends and transitions to the main bathroom floor?
RuneTw0hand 4 months ago
This was a good video. What are your thoughts on the pre-fabricated shower pans? They seem pretty good to me, but would like your thoughts.
notta3d 5 months ago
The only question I have is regarding the wire mesh on the subfloor.
I am installing over concrete subfloor. Is the wire mesh needed for subfloor application.
Thank you
Sincerely
Barry Graback
califmonster 7 months ago
@califmonster Yes you need the felt paper and the wire mesh. The felt paper prevents wicking of moisture from wet mortar on to concrete. The wire mesh acts as rebar to strengthen the mortar
HomeAdditionPlus 7 months ago
What is the purpose of the felt material on the framing walls?
starbucking 7 months ago
@starbucking It acts as a moisture barrier.
HomeAdditionPlus 7 months ago
Couple questions—
If I'm installing directly onto a concreted foundation, do I need to lay down a piece of wood as a subfloor or do I just put the first mortar bed on top of the slab? If I do put down the wood subfloor, do I just caulk it to the slab?
Also, I see you didn't put up a vapor barrier on the walls, other sources have said a plastic barrier is necessary behind the cement board. Please advise.
jaminduncan 8 months ago
@jaminduncan Put the Pre-slope mortar level right on the concrete slab. Yes a vapor barrier should be installed on the walls behind the cement board.
HomeAdditionPlus 8 months ago
@HomeAdditionPlus Great, thanks for the info! Las night I pulled up the old pan and the original pre-slope mortar level is already there connected to the slab though its a little rough and uneven. Can I use that existing base as my pre-slope and just add some mud to it to make it smooth? Or should I jackhammer it out of there? Also, there's some water damage to the horizontal 2x4's (sole plate) that lie underneath the vertical 2x4 framing, is there a way to replace those without a total demo?
jaminduncan 8 months ago
Thanks for the great video, homeadditionplus. I have one question about the curb though. Is it on top of the added subfloor (3/4+1/2) or directly on top of the 1/4" subfloor? Thanks in advance.
joha1234561 8 months ago
@joha1234561 It is fastened to the orignal 3/4" subfloor (via the floor joists).
HomeAdditionPlus 8 months ago
I'm going to attempt this install on a slab floor. What steps are needed to do this? Do I need to lay lath and a mortar base with the correct slope? If so how is the lath attached to the floor, and how much of the 2" ABS drain pipe should pertrude through the slab to give me the proper length for everything to work with the adjustable drain.
ocndtjgf 8 months ago
@ocndtjgf Yes, you do the same process with the slab. However, regarding the lath, you will just need to make sure it is perfectly flat prior to pouring the pre-slope. You may want to look at buying my ebook on how to install a shower pan membrane liner to get more details. See HomeAdditionPlus(dot)com
HomeAdditionPlus 8 months ago
where do I buy metal lath? I haven't seen this at Home Depot or Lowes.
theneighborzzz1011 8 months ago
@theneighborzzz1011 Yes, any home improvement center has lath.
HomeAdditionPlus 8 months ago
EXCELLENT VIDEO. I've been searching for 2 days for the details. This was great. I also liked the comment on weep holes using scrungie sponge. Thanks so much. gcn
miss505 8 months ago
Thanks so much
Pebbles around the weep holes.....Awesome
Just going that extra yard
I appreciate your advice
Thanks so much....Max
vixfix3 9 months ago
liked the whole video except the part of using pebbles by the weep holes. I think thats useless to me. Otherwise, informative. thanks
jrodmac21 9 months ago
@jrodmac21 Its not useless. Its prevent mortar from clogging up the weep holes and preventing water to drain out through them in the event of a crack in the tile/grout and final layer of mortar.
HomeAdditionPlus 9 months ago
You need to maintain the slope on the second layer. Nailing the top of the membrane liner will not be a problem unless the curb is higher than the top of the membrane liner and the shower drain is clogged. No, use the same mud mixture for both layers.
HomeAdditionPlus 10 months ago
why slope both mud layers, and can't you use backer board on the side and top of the step in place of using mortar?
Is nailing the top really going to pose a leaking problem?
Is there a difference in the mix% for the two mud layers? when my contractor renovated my bathroom, he made a 2/4 and plywood platform and lead pan it.
jhion 10 months ago
Rather than use pebbles to prevent concrete from plugging the small drain holes, use a plastic 'scrubbie' such as you would use to clean dishes in the sink. Take a knife and poke a hole in middle, then work it out till it is large enough to fit over the drain pipe. Screw down your drain to the desired height, trim any excess. You will have created in effect, a plastic donut.
RowingCox2009 11 months ago
do you need lath in the second mortar bed? i noticed it wasn't used in the video but other things i've read have it in the second bed as well.
jesseacheson 11 months ago
@jesseacheson No. Putting lath in the second mortar layer puts the membrane liner at risk of being punctured. Putting lath in the base layer is all that is needed to ensure a rigid mortar base surface that won't crack if there is any type of flexing on the wood subfloor.
HomeAdditionPlus 11 months ago
I had a guy do my shower a few weeks ago. didn't use lath or felt paper. Should I be concerned that it will fail?
Biglurp1 11 months ago
@Biglurp1 Unfortunately its water under the bridge at this point. The lath is meant to help hold the mortar together better, simliar to rebar. The felt paper is used to prevent the moisture from wicking away too fast during the curing of the mortar. The slower the water evaporates from the mortar the stronger the bond.
HomeAdditionPlus 11 months ago
forgive me for being dense in the world of carpentry but is the subfloor just your regular flooring? or is your 3/4 inch subloor another piece of plywood along with another 1/2 inch piece of plywood on top of your regular flooring?
gmrat05 1 year ago
The 3/4 inch subfloor is the base flooring (regular flooring). I added another 1/2" of plywood flooring over the subfloor (base flooring).
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Great video. The only one you will need. If you are using Pasco liners and have
a cast iron drain, then see also the you tube video by plumbsourcenet called
"shower pan installation" . This contains complimentary information.
1231OC 1 year ago
My flooring is concrete floor do i need felt paper....and what is it?
Do I need a metal lath, being that I have concrete floor?
What kind of mortar should I use, there are so many?
Thanks, great video...
arreguin1969 1 year ago
Yes, the felt paper helps to prevent the wicking away of moisture from the wet mortar to the subfloor (wood or concrete). Yes, the metal lath is necessary to add strength to the mortar. Please see my ebook for details at my website.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Glad I found your video. I would have missed the silicone part! I have my pre-slope in. What mixture do you use for the final slope? I have portland and sand sitting on my deck to mix, but I have no idea how much to mix up. My area is 4x5.
woozle47 1 year ago
what exactly is under the felt paper? do you have sheet rock, and any sort of adhesive adhering to the felt, or is the felt attached directly to the framing?
2of6 1 year ago
Its stapled directly to the wall studs.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Being a tile guy for the last five years and learning from a good old boy that has owned and operated his own tile business for 35 years, I have a certain respect for those who know what they are doing. I will say that your shower will stand for a few years and that you have done more than most tile guys out there. I will also say that there are easier more sure proof ways out there. If I were you I would check out the laticrete waterproofing system. Warrantied for life.
happydaystile 1 year ago
Excellent! Make me want to go rip out my shower and put in a new custom one! :) Thanks!
ringopuppers 2 years ago
This is a great help. Definitely one of the best videos on the subject. I do wonder why he didn't waterproof the Durock with Redgard or something like KERDI. That's how the new generation of tile guys are doing things now.
zerocipherable 2 years ago
Simply the most informative how to video for a shower install on youtube(trust me ive watched them all). There is no advertising, and its explained very well. I also love the fact that there is no part 1 and part 2. Very good job
mysticvideoent 2 years ago
Great stufffs
well done
Thanks
pfanasia 2 years ago