Any advice for a faulty Disk Interface Card? We have an Apple IIe at work, and it doesn't get past the boot screen (where it says "Apple ]["), unless I disconnect the card. I must also mention that while the D.I.C. is connected, the spindle motor runs, and the disk activity LED remains on, but nothing else happens until I power the computer down.
It's not critical that I get the old Apple working, but it would be nice if I could. Then I wouldn't have to use the Apple II as a paperweight. XD
@TeamNES1 - Sure, the problem could be: 1) the floppy disk itself is unreadable, or 2) the drive is dirty or misaligned, or 3) there's something wrong with the interface electronics (only likely if it's the 20-pin header, early version of the adapter card). My money is on option 1. You can hit Ctrl-Reset to get control back and use Applesoft (or bootstrap via ADTPro).
If you must use alcohol, non-denatured ethyl is best. Any alcohol tends to dissolve things that you don't want dissolved; but ethyl is the least nasty—followed by isopropyl, then the dreaded methyl. And denaturants are pollutants, plain and simple. No matter which is used, dry it off immediately. And keep it off the pad! I noticed that you let the pad back down onto the wet head (easily prevented by opening the door), leading to a solvent-damped pad laying on the head when you were finished.
Any advice for a faulty Disk Interface Card? We have an Apple IIe at work, and it doesn't get past the boot screen (where it says "Apple ]["), unless I disconnect the card. I must also mention that while the D.I.C. is connected, the spindle motor runs, and the disk activity LED remains on, but nothing else happens until I power the computer down.
It's not critical that I get the old Apple working, but it would be nice if I could. Then I wouldn't have to use the Apple II as a paperweight. XD
TeamNES1 1 month ago
@TeamNES1 - Sure, the problem could be: 1) the floppy disk itself is unreadable, or 2) the drive is dirty or misaligned, or 3) there's something wrong with the interface electronics (only likely if it's the 20-pin header, early version of the adapter card). My money is on option 1. You can hit Ctrl-Reset to get control back and use Applesoft (or bootstrap via ADTPro).
retrorerun 1 month ago
@retrorerun Thanks for the advice. :3
Just curious: would you consider an adapter card from 1978 to be an early model?
TeamNES1 1 month ago
Love to see the insides of these old machines. Proper retro nerd porn!
Polaventris 7 months ago
I use face cleaner on cartridges as it's alcohol based and evaporates quickly, so I assume this will work on any 5.25 :o)
RetroGamerVX 7 months ago
Much simpler than the Unidisk drive!
rwdplz1 1 year ago
@rwdplz1 That's true - but the concept (and the drive mechanism) is of course the same.
retrorerun 1 year ago
If you must use alcohol, non-denatured ethyl is best. Any alcohol tends to dissolve things that you don't want dissolved; but ethyl is the least nasty—followed by isopropyl, then the dreaded methyl. And denaturants are pollutants, plain and simple. No matter which is used, dry it off immediately. And keep it off the pad! I noticed that you let the pad back down onto the wet head (easily prevented by opening the door), leading to a solvent-damped pad laying on the head when you were finished.
ueberRegenbogen 2 years ago
Otherwise, nice walk-through. ☺
ueberRegenbogen 2 years ago