Hi, Good video. I might try this. Just wondering, how do you sir ensure that the flat surface of the stone is exactly parallel with the glass surface? The stone might be thicker at one end. Another thing is the flatness of the stone whilst grinding. I think a solution for the flatness of the stone would be to buy 3 of the stones and use them every 30 seconds or so to flatten each other. With 3 stones, same size, same grit on can make three perfectly flat surfaces. What do you think sir?
The stone is parallel because you flip the whole thing upside down on a flat surface when you tighten the wingnuts.
The stone stays flat because the jig allows you to take full length motions, oscillating side to side. Since you do not grind the edge, it does not matter if the stone is a little out of flat - only the honing works the edge and those abrasives are glued to glass. I have done a lot of grinding and the area used - all but a half-inch at either end - is still plenty flat.
I've been trough you website a few times now and it's stating to make sense - I was about to invest in a decent jig such as the MkII from Veritas, but it seems I won't be able to easily achieve your 3 bevel, front & back, with it. The beauty of your jig is a simple flip over allows the corresponding back bevel to be honed, before moving onto the next grade of abrasive. I need to understand more about bevel up blades first, then I'll have a go at making a suitable jig for my thick BU blades
As discussed in the web pages, low angle bench planes (12 degree bedding angle) do not work well with large micro bevels on the back of the iron. They will cut, but the lower wear bevel reappears quickly and they stop working.
An alternative is to NOT use the slips when working the back of the iron. Use all three abrasives but all at the same angle. Keep the back honed bevel narrow. Spend almost no time on the 15 micron. Using the 5 micron to the edge. The .5 micron for a bit longer.
ali1082 11 months ago
@ali1082
The stone is parallel because you flip the whole thing upside down on a flat surface when you tighten the wingnuts.
The stone stays flat because the jig allows you to take full length motions, oscillating side to side. Since you do not grind the edge, it does not matter if the stone is a little out of flat - only the honing works the edge and those abrasives are glued to glass. I have done a lot of grinding and the area used - all but a half-inch at either end - is still plenty flat.
Brentssharpening 11 months ago
I've been trough you website a few times now and it's stating to make sense - I was about to invest in a decent jig such as the MkII from Veritas, but it seems I won't be able to easily achieve your 3 bevel, front & back, with it. The beauty of your jig is a simple flip over allows the corresponding back bevel to be honed, before moving onto the next grade of abrasive. I need to understand more about bevel up blades first, then I'll have a go at making a suitable jig for my thick BU blades
sparlyman 11 months ago
@sparlyman
As discussed in the web pages, low angle bench planes (12 degree bedding angle) do not work well with large micro bevels on the back of the iron. They will cut, but the lower wear bevel reappears quickly and they stop working.
An alternative is to NOT use the slips when working the back of the iron. Use all three abrasives but all at the same angle. Keep the back honed bevel narrow. Spend almost no time on the 15 micron. Using the 5 micron to the edge. The .5 micron for a bit longer.
Brentssharpening 11 months ago
Superb help. What jig do you use to for a back micro bevel?
greenmoss 1 year ago
@greenmoss
I will add a link to my website from this video. My other video are more about honing than grinding.
Brentssharpening 1 year ago
Can anyone tell me where the senior center is?
Adbhe 2 years ago
It is a very nice jig and explaining, I tried and it gets a very straight edge to the blade. Thank you!
quiquegb 4 years ago