Added: 5 years ago
From: HomeRemodelWorkshop
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  • Excellent tip Bob

  • Superb effort.

    Love this jig. Dead simple. Very effective.

    Thanks very much for posting.

  • considering how ridiculously expensive these track saws and tracks are this is a godsend, very nice job.

  • excellent !!

  • KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid. I love this this is a true jig. Simple cheap and you can make another if something happens to it without dreading it.

  • Great stuff. I have an 8ft long off cut of hardboard from a workbench project I'm working on. I didn't have a use for it until now. This is a great idea. Thanks for posting! Subscribed.

  • Great video I am going to make one of these, what is masonite? is it like hardboard which we use in UK.

    subscribed to your site.

  • @steno01 Masonite, I think is a brand name. Some call it hardboard others pressboard, You can make this jig out of just about any 1/4 inch sheetgood material. +++Bob

  • @steno01 its like compressed sawdust and glue with a smooth side and a porous side.

  • right. Better than creating an ad hoc rip fence out of 2x2 stock.

  • before cutting it to fit your saw - epoxy a thin strip of metal to that factory edge then make your first ''fitting cut''. the metal will protect that factory edge from ever getting damaged and throwing off a straight cut. last be sure to coat the bottom of the jig with 2 coat of high gloss poly,buff it out with paste wax to protect a finished work suface from any possible scratching... Now you have a SUPER JIG for fine work... yes a circ saw can be used in fine work LOL... tell em BOB!

    Tino

  • @actorguy6 I also rub a bit of paraffin wax on the guide - helps the circ saw glide smoother on the ... could rub a bit of parrafin on the bottom of the circ saw I suppose too... Hope these tips were helpful in making a great jig greater :)

    Tino

  • Troubleshooter 321 loved your video about how you have to watch the crowning of the lumber to make sure you have a straight wall, cabinet or anything...I tried some lumber out at a lumber store and sure enough the lumber would not stay plumb with a steel cabinet that was handy. I tried the other side of the wood put it up to the cabinet and it was straight. The crown over time causes it to bend upwards. Its probably pretty straight when it is first cut +++

  • A lot of videos say that they will do such an such , then you find out that the engineering manual

    you were supposed to bring is not with you. Some require such a steep learning curve. Well

    explained and promise kept. I am a fan.

  • @troubleshooter321 Glad you liked it! +++Bob

  • I made three diferent sizes (8, 4 and 3 ft) of this jig about 4 years ago and they are still working. Thanks they made my hobby easier and safe :)

  • +++Alex this is great - challenge... two words panel saw at Home Depot ... that to many words thanks for the video

  • I've been trimming all the new raised panel interior doors and have struggled making clean straight cuts. Nice nob thank you for sharing your tips. Your instructional technique and presentation is smooth very well explained and clearly illustrated. As a former Electrical Instructor kudos to a job well done!

  • Do you get a flex in the middle of your jig?

  • @gregoryscottsr Well no, Its very difficult to flex something that is 12" laying flat, +++Bob

  • thank you bob this is relay nice and help full every day i am worry abut straight cut but now its very ezy thank you

  • what does +++ mean

  • @ironlionkalo It means plus plus plus or any other pleasant thing you might think .+++Bob

  • @HomeRemodelWorkshop oh ok +++justin

  • Doamne... E la mintea cocosului ce a facut asta. Ce dracu' se lauda asa???

  • @denorro Can I get this comment in English? No offense, Would like to understand +++Bob

  • Thanks thats really great tip, I shall make two an 8' and a 4' big thumbs up from over the pond ( UK )

  • @1stMrSceptical A thumbs up from someone named MrSceptical must be pretty good lol+++Bob

  • Very nicely done. I am a professional and I use aluminum straight edges, but it doesnt protect the surface. Im going to make an 8' & a 4' as well.

  • You helped me out big time! The video was nicely done and easy to follow!

  • @sully9088 I think you will like your jig +++Bob

  • nice job

  • Wonderful. I ve been looking for that tip for some time now

    thanks

    

  • Great video Bob! Simple but very useful idea beautifully explained. Thanks. I intend buying a jigsaw and I can use this technique with that for long straight cuts.

  • Excelente me ajudou a idéia,

  • Exactly what I needed; thank you!

  • excellent video, thank you and also saved to my favorites

  • That was perfect very clever thank you for the video. I'm saving it as one of my favotes Alwesome.

  • thats a slick way to protect the finished piece, while cutting it straight. have 2 use that one. thanks Bob!

  • so simple... your a genius !!!

  • Tnk You Very Much.........great idea I Apreciate your help, keep posting ideas like this....

  • Elementary,my dear Watson :)Thank you!

  • @jymyty I presume that makes you Sherlock? +++Bob

  • @HomeRemodelWorkshop No,it is just a popular phrase in our country when somebody learn you in something like this ,simple but much useful :)

  • @jymyty Got it, lol+++Bob

  • great work..................thank u

  • Thank you very much! I made two of them 4' and 8', It works perfectly

  • @MrRenalcala Glad to hear you like it! +++Bob

  • Great idea.

    

  • slick idea. heck of a lot cheaper than straight edge guides you see in the store. Only drawback I see here is the durability of the masonite.

  • great idea dude... I will try it out :)

  • nice!!

    

  • Brilliant! Cheers.

  • Thanks Bob. Now I don't have to fire that knucklehead that can't cut a straight line....Oh wait...that was me!

  • These videos are sooooo good.

  • i hate you i love you you lover and helper of mankind ........!!!! thanks a bunch genius

  • Not exactly a master carpenter over here and I was in the middle of a project when I happened to stumble across this video... I modified the trick slightly and it worked like a dream - thanks so much!!

  • This is a masterpiece tip over there, not a shitty ExpertVillage video. Thanks alot.

  • I have a piece of select board i clamp on to run saw along and it makes great cuts. I just measure back to compensate for saw deck. Cheaper then going your way

  • @Olddog231 Did not say it was the only way to do it , however if you have many cuts to make or do it daily this way may be more time efficient. +++Bob

  • Great tip :)

  • A millions Thanks.

  • Poor man's Festool....thanks a lot !

  • thank you for the tips, I've been searching how to cut straight on plywood, and I found this.

  • Great video as always. I'm planing to take this one step further by insetting a T-track into the board (it will have to be thicker) and then attaching guide to the saw.

  • I've had one of these jigs for quite a while. It's important to note that you need to have the guide sitting on the part of the board that you want to keep. If you do it the other way, your dimension will be short by the kerf of the saw. Oh, and SUBSCRIBED! Thanks.

  • Another great tip, this will come in handy.

  • Yes. A great jig for pennies! I would make an extra guide that isn't quite as long; for those shorter cuts. Also, this same principle could be used with a router to make a router guide, for edge jointing boards.

    My only modification to this would be a slightly thicker edge to run the saw against. (Say 12mm.) This would help prevent the sole lifting up by accident, which could be dangerous at worst and ruin nice material at least.

    Nice one. Thanks

    MC

  • When I buy a saw, I will definately make one because they are quite expensive to buy. Thanks for really excellent idea!

  • This is the most useful video I have ever seen...as a DIY homeowner, I find your instructionals to be thorough and easy to follow. I can't wait to go crank up my saw!!!

  • Great tip, new subscriber. Larry

  • I've made and used this jig for 30 years.

    I make them in a variety of lengths and always have a few on hand. A 5 ft one is handy while working on the road and you're not going to be cutting longer length material.

  • Great job thanks Bob.

  • @serin10uk Thank you keep watching!+++Bob

  • I've used these type of jigs for years....they are also great for tapered cuts.

  • That makes perfect sense. I saw this idea elsewhere, but you explained it quicker and more clearly. You can also make one of these for use with a router, using the same principle; great for 'planing' a long edge. But I guess you know that already!

    Thanks

    JW

  • brilliant idea mate, I'll be using this method thanks for the tip.

  • Excellent Valuable Jig to own & use. - Keep in mind that even when using the exact same saw, there will likely be a difference in the cut when you change the blade from the original blade you used to make your "Door Board", to some other blade. - Not all blades are created equal. - The style of tooth and the tooth set of blades can vary greatly. You may need to slightly adjust your "Door Board" edge placement to the cut mark on the board you want to cut.

  • Perfect! Just what i was looking for. Thanks a lot Mate.

  • Excellent tip I will make one of those for sure, Thanks....

  • me im a handyman and leran something new every day

  • i must say this is ona the best videos on youtube about this that doesnt just tell you to go buy some new product... well done and thank you

  • Thanks .

  • There's so much junk on Youtube from product reviews that are not thought out, to pure non-sense.

    It's refreshing to see a video tutorial of this quality. Definately subscribing. Thanks so much!

  • well done bob. thats a very nice jig and not expensive to make.. keep up the good work

  • I have been using something similar for 30 years, the trouble with what you have shown is the straight edge you made would normally be clamped to the main board, not the piece you want to cut. What happens if you only want a 2" piece, you can't fix that great big straight edge to a small piece of board. I would measure the piece I want to cut and then add the thickness of the saw blade and mark my board there , clamp on the straight edge and cut off the piece I want.

  • Handy, if you don't have a table saw.

  • Great. How do you cut angles with a circular saw?

  • damn how come i get like side cuts on the bottom of the wood and on top i get them straight?

  • Thanks Bob for all of your videos. I'm getting ready to start a basement remodeling job. The video ---> 3/4/5 method for getting your 90 is awesome!!! Thanks again!

  • thanks  for you

  • FANTASTIC idea. Thank you very much!!! I build speaker cabinets for guitar amps, PA systems, etc. I have no table saw, just a circular saw so I have to use some sort of a straight edge. I have a factory made two piece straight edge, but the hardest part for me is measuring the saw kerf along with the board width and getting a straight line.....this will solve all of that problem.

  • I just wanted to say that I've used this idea, made my own and it's been a HUGE help in laying a new sub-floor in my "remodeled down to the 1940's wonky joists" kitchen. :) MUCH obliged, love to see more videos this "slow season."

  • outstanding !!!!!!!

  • I've been in construction for over 25 years and this is the simplest way that I've ever seen to cut a 8' sheet of anything straight. Great job explaining and making it easy for the beginner to understand. Very humble attitude as well. People pay lots of money to learn what you just taught and your giving it away free. That is truly a christlike attitude and guess what, he was a carpenter.

  • @Breeze8488 Well said. :)

  • Great video!!!

  • great tip mate, thanks for the video... great idea congratz.....

  • A straight and true top notch video. Just what I was looking for! Thanks.

  • Hey Bob

    I made this jig yesterday - I love it! I used 1/4 plywood..a few added details. I sanded the bottom of the jig to 220 grit and also a nice added touch is rubbing a bit of wax on the track where the saw slides on it ( any old candle will do) and a bit more on the bottom of the saw base ( this works good on a router too!) .. well I hope this helps :) btw - can you believe Dewalts ''track saw'' goes for$1000 out here in Toronto ..made mine for free from scrap lol

    Tino.

  • Wow, thats a great idea, thanks for the vid!

  • awesome tip !!!!!! im goin to make one right now

  • MILWAUKEE!!!

  • @MrMeanderthal  Like that HUH? LOL +++Bob

  • Such a simple yet elegant solution. Very well done, Bob. Thanks for your help.

  • I've been a carpenter for 6 years now....I learn something new every single day. I will use this in my shop.....Great job.

  • @rudetuber Drill a hole in that puppy and hang it on the wall! I think you will like it. Thanks for watching +++Bob

  • @rudetuber if you did`nt know this you must be a carpenter helper for 6 years

  • This is a great video. In fact, all of your videos are top notch -- not only in the technique covered, but in making them easy to understand.  Thanks for being so generous with your knowledge.

  • @Terryfic3D Thanks for the praise. Terry rific +++Bob

  • This is brilliant just what i need . No more drunken cuts .I love youtube

  • thanks...u r genius!

  • great thank you

  • Now that is the best way to do that. Thanks for sharing.

  • intellgent!

  • I've been using these for some time now. I use an 8' and also a 4'. Mine are a little more substantial, 18mm and 5mm MDF, so that I can screw "hook" stops on top for making repeat cuts. Exact rips time after time.

    I also use the same technique for making squaring boards for panel cutting. It makes life easy when making a large number of same dimension panels. I simply make a squared board that is shorter in length by TWICE the blade offset, then fix the 5mm MDF underneath, and start cutting.

  • Great idea....You can use contact glue and you are ready in 30 mins.

    thanks Bob.

  • Brilliant!

  • made one up never finished it until today. i swaer by it haha i don't need a festool now. thanks a million for this. its an A1 tip for anyway in the carpentry industry.

  • Brilliant!

    DIY Novice u.k.

  • I have a shorter version of this that I made for trimming door bottoms. If you razor along the edge of the plywood before making the cut you can avoid tear-out on veneer doors.

  • Simple, yet brilliant. I'm making one tomorrow. Thanks

  • Amazingly simple ...yet brilliant..I'm making one tomorrow...thanks!

  • WOW no coment.

  • Thanks for clearing that up. I was putting the edge of my door board right up to my cut line...not directly on top of it.

  • Put the board directly on TOP of the line to be mark. As in cover the line with the door board?

  • @ctl46 Yes+++Bob

  • On the 14" mark you made, should the edge of the door board be placed directly on it? Does this ensure the blade is on the waste side of the line? Thanks

  • @ctl46 The door board should lay on the piece you intend to use.+++Bob

  • your a life saver!! now i don't have to go to timber warehouse pay extra money for perfect cuts

  • quick, simple and accurate. I build and install commercial millwork. I have a small table saw for working on site. I also use a guide like this for panel work. it's faster, safer and more accurate than a table saw for panel cutting. plus you can cut off parallel, angles and tapers etc.

    I have a track/plunge saw but it's for the plunge action. I cut window openings in finished doors, the plunge gives a cleaner cut starting and stopping but is no more accurate than this set up

  • @MrMeanderthal Thanks for the post! +++Bob

  • Thank you for the tip

  • thats really sick tho man

  • berzack - sounds like non-spring clamps might work better for you (c-clamps, pony clamps, vice grips, etc). When you look at Bob make that 8-foot cut, notice how little pressure he"s putting against the door board. He let's the saw blade do the work. And very importantly, I'd bet he uses sharp saw blades. Dull blades in the workshop or kitchen are accidents waiting to happen. Good luck.

  • really good idea

  • it`s too much simply. straight cuts?)))

  • So how do you do for the guide not to move? I've used clamps for my guide but it ends up moving when I reach the center.

  • Very nice! Exactly what I was looking for! I do have a question, I was cutting 1 inch from the length of a door so I had to use the saw with the engine on the left(just like your video) but I had nowhere to support it, even though I used a guide, the saw pivoted to the left and I ended up with 1 inch cut on top and 1.3 inch cut below. The cut was straight, but with an angle on the side... Hard to explain... I'm sorry if it sounds confusing. Any help is appreciated

  • Bob, Your a Genius !

  • @TomSawyerPainting  Could you call my wife and let her know? Thanks+++Bob

  • @HomeRemodelWorkshop Ha, wives are all the same, aren't they?!

  • this is genius it's gonna help me a lot once i make one for myself! thanks

  • Thank you! Best tip I've seen in a while.

  • This is probably one the best tips I got.

    Thanks Bob!

  • Prime Cut Bob ! Thank ya kindly.

  • This is called a straight edge

  • awesome tip man.  thanks

  • Great tip. I made one yesterday and it gave me a straight cut on the boards I needed to cut. Thanks again.

  • very good idea ill be making one thanks

  • Bob, you are right handed? What do you think of those 'fancy' saws with the blade on the left- where you can better see where you are cutting?

  • Hi, this stuff is really useful, but I have a doubt. I cant understand the name of the material, used to build the guide. I understand "Mesanaid" or something like that. Please help, Im from Mexico. Thanks.

  • @losfuzzers Try "masonite"

  • Nice helpful vid....... that's a nice trick use to measure my saw and put a fence every time a wanted to make a perfect cut..... Ill be making one of those before I start making more bee hives for this year thanks.

  • thanks ! I was trying to solve that problem

  • good stuff

  • I have a commercial guide and think that the one shown in this video is far superior. A++

  • thank you for the video, definitely i'll save some money.

  • it's called a "fence"

  • Thanks Bob! Great ideas like this would get lost if great people like you weren't sharing them with us. Can't wait to try this out.

  • can't argue with that , well done mate

  • wow. such a simple idea. brilliant. thank you.

  • i was thinking of buying a guide this is cool nice one 5/5

  • Some of those guides can get pretty pricey I think you will like this +++Bob

  • Good one BOB!!!!

  • Thanks Hudson ,hope you find it useful+++Bob

  • perfect !

    thanks a ton for that one.

  • You are welcome. Hope it comes in handy for you +++Bob

  • Right on man, thanks for the tip......

  • Solid wood warps. I thought about making one from mdf. It stays flat.

  • Thanks mutch

  • Good Stuff, can't wait to try it out on my next project!

  • Great Video...I can't wait to use it tomorrow.

  • Bob does have some good old fashioned common sense tips - Bob Villa and the rest want you to buy an extruded aluminum one made by their sponsors. Mine is made of excess luan I had from a flooring job but I dont use spring clamps as I've had them slip - I use C clamps (with a scrap if it's on a finished surface). I also made a 4 ft version this year to use when I cut across a sheet short side for soffit boards, the 8 ft one got in the way. Drill a hole in the end & stick 'em on a nail on the wall

  • @rhblakeman Lot of good sense in your comment /remarks.