Volvo 740 Turbo 0-60 Full Throttle Acceleration

[volvoforlife01]

one of the best suspension mods for these also is IPD sway bars if you want the thing to really handle.

bilstein struts and shocks if you ever replace those, the touring's are close to an OEM ride but just a tad firmer and will allow it to handle extremely well, the HD's are really stiff.

[gizmo98550]

hey man i just got a nice 740 TI loaded. um.. what can i do and how to get even more poop from its already potent engine?

[volvoforlife01]

You could also have an exhaust shop you trust swap out the catalytic converter with a Carsound/Magnaflow (only use this/these brands, others suck and will fail prematurely).

Have them remove the resonator (the second muffler right after the cat and weld in a pipe) then do a magnaflow free flowing straight through muffler at the rear. Will increase turbo spoolup and allow it to stay cooler.

I had all this done for about $350

[volvoforlife01]

if it's an auto, you can also tighten up the tranny kickdown cable, it's at the throttlebody spool, it's the one with the metal threads not the plastic, loosen the front nut on the thread and pull back then tighten back. This will increase line pressure firming up shifts and allow it to shift at higher RPM's, trans to be more responsive. Don't go too crazy, just adjust it to shift at about 5800RPM full throttle.

[volvoforlife01]

also check all your vacuum hoses for cracks, it's very common on an older higher mileage vehicle, especially a turbo given all the extra head in the engine compartment, these rubber vacuum lines become brittle, it could cause it to run rough or lean screwing up the mixture.

[gizmo98550]

hey dawg.. i JUST got a 1988 volvo 740 turbo.. ide like to know what i can do for a bit more power. as of now its got V power plugs and a cone air filter with stock air box removed

[volvoforlife01]

For a cone filter make sure you have a heatshield to shield engine and radiator heat otherwise it won't help that much also make sure the cone is "big". Those small ricer cones have less filter area than a K&N in the stock airbox.

Another thing you can do is remove the second screen on the Air Mass Flow Sensor (the one after the sensor) but leave the first screen in to protect the sensor to help flow.

Also buy some CRC MAF cleaner and spray the shit out of the sensor wire, don't touch.

[Domman56]

K&N filter make a big difference on this car?

[volvoforlife01]

not really alone, just when combined with other stuff like high flow exhaust as well on turbos.

[volvoforlife01]

not really a "big" difference, kind of an every little thing helps difference.

There were also other restrictions inside the airbox like an air reducer/silencer cone that makes the air intake part of the airbox more narrow that was removed.

There was also preheated crap that was gutted with a dremel and capped off.

[Domman56]

kool kool

[Slowhooptievolvo]

Needs moar bewst mang!!

[volvoforlife01]

yeah, hahaha. already several exhaust manifold studs snapped off with heat and age from running stock / just a pound extra for a while, engine had a slow HG leak and some piston slap that got pretty loud after overheating once.

If it was a spare that we could thrash at the time, probably would have boosted the shit out of it!

[alekjamesbitch22]

why does it look like the oil light is on ?

[volvoforlife01]

it's the ABS light because the ABS modulator had a defective relay inside of it, it was later fixed after a couple of $25 BOSCH relays that could be bought online, ABS light went off and never came back on after. I guess the relays get hot over the years from engine temps and later fail.

[volvoforlife01]

cool, right on man, thanks, volvoforlife!