I recently got rid of my money-pit car and bought a bike. My first bike in 20 years, so I'm just seeing what's what. Can't wait for something to break because they look much simpler to work on than cars :)
@AndyK243 Yeah, you need the chainwhip for the leverage. That lockring should be on pretty tight. In the video it was pretty loose because I'd been shooting the footage over and over. In an actual application you have to put some force into unscrewing the lockring cap and you'll need the leverage of the chainwhip handle to hold that cassette freehub still.
@WheeliePete i have done it without a chain whip (used a tea-towel and held tight) on my Dawes road bike. I checked with a reputable bike shop and they said that if u have to put the quick release over the tool its on way too tight, understandable, there aren't very many threads on that ring... Good video btw
@4dread5 Putting the quick release through the tools has nothing to do with the lockring being on too tight, it's about not having the tool slip out when you put a wrench to it. The spline engagement is not very deep on the FR-5 so if you are trying to hold the wrench in one hand and hold the chainwhip in the other while balancing the wheel on the bench you can eaisly get off kilter and pop the tool out of the lockring.
@WheeliePete continued. from above... by running the QR skewer through the axle and the FR-5 tool you eliminate the possiblity of the tool slipping out of the splines on the lockring cap. From my 20+ years of professional wrenching I can tell you that you want that lockring on there tight. Trust me, the first time you have a lockring come loose in the middle of a race or a big ride out in the middle of nowhere you'll wish it had been on there tighter.
@francedad Yes, I know, I know...but let's not be too picky here. We're not talking about a 400# torque value.... :-) When I was working in shops we'd always ask for the "Fits-none Strips-all" when we wanted someone to hand us the adjustable wrench...lol
Great vid, broke a spoke, so the casette needed to come off, but I'd never done it before. Watched the vid, dropped the tool in place, and off it came, undamaged... Now if I only had gotten the right length spoke... *sigh*
I recently installed a new 8 speed cassette. As I tightened down the locking ring cogs 7 and 8 seemed a little lose. I tightened the locking ring as far as I felt appropriate, not wanting to strip the threads. I can still detect slight independent movement of cogs 7 and 8. Not much really. Should I be concerned? I thought about fabricating a shim spacer to tighten them up but decided not to for now.
@dalecs47 You can get a 1mm spacer online or from a bike shop. If there is enough room you can take apart an old cassette and run one of the spacers from that if it will fit. I had to do that on a Mavic wheel with a 10spd stack. I used a cassette cog spacer from an old 9spd stack. Worked great on that Mavic wheel. The cogs should tighten down TIGHT. If they are loose they will just rock back and forth and chew up your cassette body.
Thank you sir, you are indeed my hero. After a couple of hours of shredding my fingers on the casette, I swallowed my pride and admitted defeat. After watching this video, I feel stupid, but now my casette is of. Thank you again.
@eatmealiveplease To prevent the lockring tool from possibly popping off when you try to use the wrench on it. i usually don't do it myself, but for beginner's it's best to put the nut on the quick release just to avoid the possibility of the tool popping out when you go to use the wrench.
@WheeliePete absolutely spot on, this was a good solution you had, i kept having to turn it with a wrench and it really wanted to come off. good advice PEte
hello I dismounted my cassette shimano 9speed and after remove the lock only 2 wheels come out and the rest is joint with 3 iron sticks (i dont know If you what I mean) and they are not screws... how to remove them??
@MaRcIu27 Some cassette stacks are pinned on the back cogs. Unless the pins are screws they are not designed to be taken apart. You "could" take them apart if you grind off the heads of the pins and punch them out, but they really weren't meant to be taken apart if they are pinned.
@darkmihai52 Do you mean cogs? I don't know what "raws" are....? If you remove one cog from a stack you end up with a sloppy loose stack. You can buy spacer kits to allow you to remove cogs and make a single speed, but you have to have some kind of spacer to take up the gap if you remove individual cogs.
If I am installing my old cassette on a new wheelset is there any lubrication involved, extra things i should check or do, or do i simply follow this step by step?
finally, an excellent video. well laid out and good camera work, just what i needed to get this. nice job thanks a lot man, i got it now!..(subbed ya)
i noticed that my freewheel removal tool seated better on my hope hubs than shimano although it may of been the cassete im not sure. on my my hope pro 2 rear hub the tool would seat without having to be screwed on with a skewer enabling me to use a torque wrench square drive. to be fair though this is one place you can do without using a torque wrench as it ain't gonna come off
can anyone fill me in, i took mine apart but when i did it looks a little different, and 1/8" bearings went everywhere when i pulled the cassette up. Its a Mongoose Crossway 250, not sure what year but is has the Shimano Altus c50 derailers if that helps any? Thanks!!!
@jdsanchez473 The rear hub that is spec'd on that bike comes with the Shimano TZ07 FREEWHEEL. The video is for a cassette on a FREEHUB style hub. If you pulled the freewheel body (cogs are attached to the freewheel on your bike) and bearings fell out, either the freewheel was totally blown, or the axle shaft was unscrewed (or broken) and your actual axle bearings fell out. For an excellent explanation of freewheel vs. freehub go to sheldonbrown(dot)com and look for his article on the sbjct.
@WheeliePete Thanks!, i read up on freewheel vs freehub and now i see what i did... i took it apart instead of taking it off lol. Makes sense now. Could you please post a link to whatever site gave you the info on the bike i have? I would greatly appreciate it :)
@WheeliePete oh and i guess i could include that i got it back together (went to auto parts store and they happend to have a few 1/8" bearings to replace the ones i lost). I cleaned it up really good, put grease on the race, stuck the bearings to it and put it back together, rode it a mile or so and no issues (besides i still need to get to the wheel bearing on that side, which means getting the tool to remove (not take apart lol) the cassette.
I've got the new freewheel installed now. Thanks a bunch WheeliePete. Your suggestions saved me some money as I was about to buy the wrong tools for this job and your help saved the day come install day. :D
I was thinking about getting a new freewheel for my existing 700c rear rim. The main reason was that I need more torque on the first gear. I came across this one:
SHIMANO C-201 MEGA RANGE 6 SP
(a quick google search should get you a listing for this)
So my main question is if your video still applies to a Shimano 6 speed. The main difference is that my rim does NOT have the quick release feature. It's an old fashioned bolt on rim and was wondering if the removal/install was any different.
@MagnumForce51 The C-201 is a freewheel, not a freehub so you would need a freewheel remover like the park FR-1. They look similar except the FR-1 has MUCH longer splines to reach down into the freehweel body and engage the splines of the freewheel body. For excellent explanation of freewheel vs. freehub go to: sheldonbrown(dot)com
Any tips on identifying what type my bike's current rim is using? If it's of the opposite type, then I'm in a pickle. I do plan to closely examine the rim. What I can say is that this bike is a Savannah Model# 56760 (Huffy brand) with original rims.
Yeah not exactly a high end bike, but I can easily upgrade it. But I have to do it in small steps given my small budget. ;)
Feel free to send me a personal message to continue this discussion.
You didn't mention it but, I noticed how you flipped your quick release lever backwards so it did not get scratched while you performed maintenance. I like that and I am going to start doing that.
@OFFENSIVEWORDS LOL...I've been doing this stuff so long some things are just automatic, but yeah, you're right, it keeps the outside of the lever from getting scratched.
I'm not able to get my stack off - I removed the lock nut and all else. Is it posible that the stack is a a part of the rim? Meaning, built in? It won't or can't come off the rim?
I have a lockring on my bike that looks entirely different and the tool doesnt work. what should I do? do they make different lockring removal tools? it's a suntour lockring.
hi, thanks for this video! i really need to clean out my cogs. BTW, is it possible to kill the allignment of the axle that goes through the hub? thanks
@WheeliePete - Hi, when I pedal my bike forward, the cogs rotate but sometimes the wheel won't. Is it time to replace the whole cassette? Does the cassette body come separately fromt he cogs? Thanks.
@WheeliePete - Hi, I have mavic askium wheels and a shimano ultegra 6700 cassette... But I have a very noisey cassette. I believe the lock ring is tight enough but there is some lateral movement i.e. forward and back. that is making noise. Help
@comac1983 Mavic wheels sometimes require a thicker spacer than the 1mm one that is supplied with shimano 10spd cassette stacks. I had the exact same problem. I looked in my junk drawers and ended up using a cog spacer from an old 9spd stack, I put that spacer on the mavic freehub body, then the cassette stack and then the lockring would actually tighten the cogs down before bottoming out on the freehub body. If your cogs are loose and the lockring is tight, you need a bigger spacer.
@fwynn What spacer? The one behind the cassette stack? Those usually come with Shimano 10spd cassettes, you can get them from bike shops or the internet. Some new cassettes don't need them to fit on shimano free-hub bodies any more, I just got a new Sram 10spd stack and it was machined in such a way that it did not need any spacer behind it to torque down the cassette stack.
@emile345 Yeah, just turn it until it's tight and then I like to go about 2-3 clicks of the teeth in the lockring cap past tight. Try it, you'll see. Torque wrench is great to have. I do use a torque wrench on the centerlock rotor caps. Just don't go crazy, you don't need to put a length of pipe on the end of the wrench or anything to tighten them...
Not without messing up the lockring. The ghetto way to do it is with a hammer and flathead screwdriver, but just spend the $20 and buy the two tools from me and do it right. Seller id: Wheelie_Pete on eBay. :-)
You can buy a new hub and re-lace the wheel, but if the threads are stripped on the hub you're probably screwed. (Even if you were able to fix the threads by chasing them with a die you probably wouldn't have much left to work with.)
Thank you so much for this, I've been reading how to do this from various sources, but I could never follow what they were trying to explain. This video makes it so much easier.
You can try more leverage. Slip a piece of pipe over the wrench to extend the length of the lever that is the wrench handle. You probably want two people at that point. One to hold the chainwhip and one to try and turn the wrench.
Nice video...when i have my bike upside down, pedal and watch the cassette...the cassette is rolling off its center (it doesn't spin flat)....kind of like a coin does going down on the table after you spin it...could this be a hub or axle problem???
Having only three threads is one of the reasons to buy a chris king lock ring. They go into the hub body deeper then the regular lockrings from shimano and sram. You can get them in either titanium or aluminum and you only need to buy it once. I have a titanium one and it is definitely an improvement on the standard one that came with my xt cassette.
Good to know! I've never had one come loose because I check that kind of stuff, but I've had friends' who've had the lockring work loose on a ride....no fun...
Please excuse my retarded question I'm about to Ask. The "Quick-Release" nut on the hub. Whats the Proper Name? As in the Whole Pin, I see its easily removalable, And I would like the common measurements of the Rear Rim "Quick-Release" nut system
Hi Wheelie Pete my old 15 speed's cassette body fails at -10 C / 14 F or colder. Can i simply re-grease it? or do i have to replace it? the gears are fine.. its a old pos 1987 vintage & i dont want to put any bucks on it.
Not sure what you mean by "fails"? if it's that cold and it quits wanting to free-wheel backwards it's probably because the grease has thickened to the point that it doesn't want to free-wheel eaisly. A new, thinner grease might help...
True, it actually it used to bind in reverse last year so i used motorcycle chain lube throughout the chain & gearset, it worked but started to stick & get clogged. By Failure i meant that it would simply quit locking the forward motion completely & leave you stranded right there, as if the chain fell off the gears. I lubed the set with mobil one 5w30 full synthetic & rode 30 mins in -15 C/ 5 F without a failure.
Okay, sounds like the prawls that engage the hub body got packed full of gunk and stayed stuck in the down position and wouldn't engage the interal points. It might not be a bad idea to just hose that body out with carb-cleaner and re-pack with a light grease that works in very cold weather. Synthetic oil is fine for a temporary fix, but it won't stay in place like a good grease will...
It is a plate looking thing, but it has 12 grooves in it to correspond with the 12 splines on the lockring tool. What you are describing sounds like a freewheel, not a cassette style free-hub.
hey pete! i'm not sure about my cassette but the cassette is a bit loose and i can wobble it a bit with my hand and when i pedal, i can see it wobble a bit. i can tighten this with a lockring tool right? and does it matter whether its a cassette or a freewheel?(as in is the tool used the same?) Thanks!
If you can physically rock the gears back and forth with your hand and you feel play, there is something wrong. If you have a cassette, the lockring might be loose. If you have a free-wheel, then the free-wheel itself is probably worn out. There is a HUGE difference between free-wheel and cassette style free-hub bodies.
If I'm not saving the cassette (converting it to a single speed), so I'm not worried about damaging them, is there a way to remove the cassette without the 2 special tools?
My short answer would be no. I hate to see good parts get boogered up, but you "can" do it with vise-grips, a hammer, and a screw driver. You will damage the parts though... If you're going to convert to a single speed and use the free-hub body and just run spacers before and after the single cog, you will still need the lockring cap.
Great vid...have all the tools but it's been years since I've had to install a cassette so this is a great refresher. Many thanks for this and for saving me a trip to the shop. Keep the vids coming.
@ 1:57 it looks like there's a spacer left on the hub. My Ksyriums SSC SLs came with a 2mm spacer and the Shimano 6600 12-27 cassette comes with a 1mm spacer at the rear (see techdocs, and I can confirm the retail package included it). Which one do you have here and which one, or both, should I use? Currently I've removed the Shimano 1mm spacer since it seemed unnecessary, whilst removing the Mavic 2mm spacer caused a peculiar knocking noise under load.
I've run into that too with the spacer and Mavic issue. You need to run a spacer on 10spd Shimano cassette stacks if you are using a 8-9-10 compatible freehub body. Shimano made a specific free-hub for 10spd and then includes a 1mm spacer so that you can use the gears on any 8-9-10 freehub...HOWEVER...for whatever reason you need a thicker spacer for the mavic freehub. I didn't have a 2mm spacer so I just used a cog spacer from an old 9spd cassette.
If you don't use a spacer you won't be able to tighten the cassette cogs down with the lockring. There should be no play at all in the cogs when you tighten the lockring down. If the cogs are loose your shifting will be horrible and the loose cogs will damage the body of the freehub.
I've got a problem, though. I'm trying to replace my back wheel because a few of the spokes have snapped. I've bought a new wheel (without the hub) and tools, but apparently, my bike has the lockring from hell. I've even tried putting WD-40 on it and tapping it with a hammer and it still won't come loose.
Get another person. Put a length of pipe on the chainwhip and a length of pipe on the wrench to increase leverage. Have the assistant hold the chainwhip and you run the wrench. By effectively extending the handle of the wrench you increase leverage DRAMATICALLY. The locking cap will either come off or you will break something. Make sure you secure the lockring tool with the quick release becaues if it pops out when you are using all kinds of leverage someone's going to get hurt.
Alright, will try that. Also what's been bothering me is that I don't seem to need the chain whip at all, the cassette doesn't spin if i try to open the locknut.
If you have a freewheel you don't have a lockring cap, the freewheel itself is threaded onto the hub body. The tool to remove a freewheel looks like a lockring tool, but the splines are usually a lot longer. You need to get more leverage as freewheels are usually really, really, tight because they get tighter from pedaling action. Freewheels and freehubs (cassette style like in the video) are two entirely different animals. You need more leverage (longer wrench)
Alright we managed to get it off by sticking the tool in a vice and rotating the wheel around. Was stuck pretty damn good, I was told that it was so tight because there was an aluminium and steel surfaces against each other.
Good deal, I was typing my response to your last post when this one came through. Yeah, if you were able to put it in a vise you have a freewheel, not a cassette style freehub. The freewheels get so tight because just simply pedaling them tightens the freewheel body to the hub threads. So a few years of pedaling and continual tightening force can really lock those surfaces together. When you put it back together put a little anti-sieze on the threads in case you ever have to go back in there
Repacking a free-hub body isn't basic maintenance and is generally unecessary (unless you've routinely submarined your rear hub.) If you need to get far enough into the rear hub that you need to dissassemble the free-hub body you really should have some advanced technical knowledge and mechanical skill in order to not booger things up worse than they were to begin with.
this was very helpful but i just have a question. is it possibe to make the (bar thingy) that you mount the cogs on smaller? I want to turn a 6 speed into a single speed so i was wondering if i could just shorten it.
You can't shorten the freehub body, but you can run spacers (to take the place of gears) on either side of a single cog. There are a couple companies that make kits to turn a multi-gear bike into a single speed.
You can buy the lockring removal tool and chainwhip as a set from me. I sell them on eBay under seller ID: wheelie_pete, or you can contact me directly and we can work something out. I've got over 600 feedback on eBay 100% positive.
The clicking is from the prawls inside the freehub body ratcheting. Don't mess with it....Some brands are louder than others. What are you doing coasting!!?? That sounds there to remind you to pedal! j/k
You probably have a 6spd FREEWHEEL which is different than a cassette. On a freewheel the gears are affixed to the freewheel body and you unscrew the whole thing from the hub of the wheel. You will need the freewheel removal tool specific to that freewheel. To change to 8/9/10 speed cassette you will need a new hub (and new shifters, and new derailleur, etc.
You don't need a chainwhip to unscrew a freewheel because the spline tool fits down inside the freewheel body and unscrews it (as well as the cogs) from the hub. The old problem with freewheels of course is that the axle's bearing on the drive side is at the hub (leaving a lot of axle essentially unsupported) whereas a cassette body has bearings supporting the axle farther out near the dropouts = more support for the axle.
Good video.
I recently got rid of my money-pit car and bought a bike. My first bike in 20 years, so I'm just seeing what's what. Can't wait for something to break because they look much simpler to work on than cars :)
poolehart 4 days ago
Excellent vid!! Thanks pete.
funnights74 1 month ago
Do you really need a chainwhip?
Can't you just wrap the old chain around the cassette and hold tight?
AndyK243 2 months ago
@AndyK243 Yeah, you need the chainwhip for the leverage. That lockring should be on pretty tight. In the video it was pretty loose because I'd been shooting the footage over and over. In an actual application you have to put some force into unscrewing the lockring cap and you'll need the leverage of the chainwhip handle to hold that cassette freehub still.
WheeliePete 2 months ago
@WheeliePete i have done it without a chain whip (used a tea-towel and held tight) on my Dawes road bike. I checked with a reputable bike shop and they said that if u have to put the quick release over the tool its on way too tight, understandable, there aren't very many threads on that ring... Good video btw
4dread5 1 week ago
@4dread5 Putting the quick release through the tools has nothing to do with the lockring being on too tight, it's about not having the tool slip out when you put a wrench to it. The spline engagement is not very deep on the FR-5 so if you are trying to hold the wrench in one hand and hold the chainwhip in the other while balancing the wheel on the bench you can eaisly get off kilter and pop the tool out of the lockring.
WheeliePete 6 days ago
@WheeliePete continued. from above... by running the QR skewer through the axle and the FR-5 tool you eliminate the possiblity of the tool slipping out of the splines on the lockring cap. From my 20+ years of professional wrenching I can tell you that you want that lockring on there tight. Trust me, the first time you have a lockring come loose in the middle of a race or a big ride out in the middle of nowhere you'll wish it had been on there tighter.
WheeliePete 6 days ago
Thanks, nice video, but your using the wrench backwards when taking off the nut. You should not put pressure on the movable jaw.
francedad 3 months ago
@francedad Yes, I know, I know...but let's not be too picky here. We're not talking about a 400# torque value.... :-) When I was working in shops we'd always ask for the "Fits-none Strips-all" when we wanted someone to hand us the adjustable wrench...lol
WheeliePete 3 months ago
@WheeliePete
Hilarious. Or the "Polish Air Wrench" (a hammer)
*No offense intended to my Polish neighbor*
878787GH 1 month ago
Great vid, broke a spoke, so the casette needed to come off, but I'd never done it before. Watched the vid, dropped the tool in place, and off it came, undamaged... Now if I only had gotten the right length spoke... *sigh*
AgentVanyr 3 months ago
WheeliePete, you kick ass!
bendingpixels 4 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
can you just use one of those cogs back on if you want to convert to single speed
luke12326 4 months ago
can you just one of those cogs back on if you want to convert to single speed
luke12326 4 months ago
@luke12326 You will still need to come up with spacers to take up the room that would be created by removing the other cogs.
WheeliePete 4 months ago
hmmm whats the diference between cog and sprocket? i always hear cog, but when the packet it came in said sprocket.
CleezyClark 5 months ago
@CleezyClark cogs rotate against other cogs, a sprocket usually engages a chain, or guide holes in paper or film, for example.
UpperPaleolithicMan 4 months ago in playlist UpperPaleolithicMan's Favorited Videos
I recently installed a new 8 speed cassette. As I tightened down the locking ring cogs 7 and 8 seemed a little lose. I tightened the locking ring as far as I felt appropriate, not wanting to strip the threads. I can still detect slight independent movement of cogs 7 and 8. Not much really. Should I be concerned? I thought about fabricating a shim spacer to tighten them up but decided not to for now.
dalecs47 5 months ago
@dalecs47 You can get a 1mm spacer online or from a bike shop. If there is enough room you can take apart an old cassette and run one of the spacers from that if it will fit. I had to do that on a Mavic wheel with a 10spd stack. I used a cassette cog spacer from an old 9spd stack. Worked great on that Mavic wheel. The cogs should tighten down TIGHT. If they are loose they will just rock back and forth and chew up your cassette body.
WheeliePete 5 months ago
Thank you sir, you are indeed my hero. After a couple of hours of shredding my fingers on the casette, I swallowed my pride and admitted defeat. After watching this video, I feel stupid, but now my casette is of. Thank you again.
russandh 6 months ago
why do you install the quick release nut ontop of the locknut?
eatmealiveplease 6 months ago
@eatmealiveplease To prevent the lockring tool from possibly popping off when you try to use the wrench on it. i usually don't do it myself, but for beginner's it's best to put the nut on the quick release just to avoid the possibility of the tool popping out when you go to use the wrench.
WheeliePete 5 months ago
@WheeliePete absolutely spot on, this was a good solution you had, i kept having to turn it with a wrench and it really wanted to come off. good advice PEte
eatmealiveplease 5 months ago
I like this video. Thx for your troubles.
MontFort1965 6 months ago
Great Video
TrailScotland 6 months ago
hello I dismounted my cassette shimano 9speed and after remove the lock only 2 wheels come out and the rest is joint with 3 iron sticks (i dont know If you what I mean) and they are not screws... how to remove them??
MaRcIu27 6 months ago
@MaRcIu27 Some cassette stacks are pinned on the back cogs. Unless the pins are screws they are not designed to be taken apart. You "could" take them apart if you grind off the heads of the pins and punch them out, but they really weren't meant to be taken apart if they are pinned.
WheeliePete 6 months ago
@WheeliePete thanks for reply I understand that, I only clean it with petrol (pink oil or something) and its shining again!
MaRcIu27 6 months ago
"Step 1, remove the wheel from the bike", or as expervilliage calls it "steps 1-253"
3GBlog 6 months ago in playlist Bike Repair
If i have a 7 slot hub and one cassette with 8 raws, will it work if I remove one raw ?
darkmihai52 6 months ago
@darkmihai52 Do you mean cogs? I don't know what "raws" are....? If you remove one cog from a stack you end up with a sloppy loose stack. You can buy spacer kits to allow you to remove cogs and make a single speed, but you have to have some kind of spacer to take up the gap if you remove individual cogs.
WheeliePete 6 months ago
YELLOW AMBER DEBBIE FLINT WORK LINK
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whotaughtyou 7 months ago
Really Helpfull, Thank you man ;)
gaetan6396 7 months ago
If I am installing my old cassette on a new wheelset is there any lubrication involved, extra things i should check or do, or do i simply follow this step by step?
ssstellarj 7 months ago
@ssstellarj You do not need to lube the freehub body or the cassette cogs. Just install as in the video.
WheeliePete 7 months ago
finally, an excellent video. well laid out and good camera work, just what i needed to get this. nice job thanks a lot man, i got it now!..(subbed ya)
frequencydude 7 months ago
i noticed that my freewheel removal tool seated better on my hope hubs than shimano although it may of been the cassete im not sure. on my my hope pro 2 rear hub the tool would seat without having to be screwed on with a skewer enabling me to use a torque wrench square drive. to be fair though this is one place you can do without using a torque wrench as it ain't gonna come off
210482fmj 7 months ago
@210482fmj Some cassette lockrings have a tighter interface than others. Manufacturing tolerances differ between manufacturers.
WheeliePete 7 months ago
@WheeliePete i prefer the ones with deeper seating depth
210482fmj 7 months ago
Thanks ! I need to replace a spoke and realized I needed to get the cassette off. Glad I watched this ! Perfect information-clear and concise.
stixie211 7 months ago
thanks great help ! nice video .
ivanovitscy 7 months ago
Thanks.This video helped me alot to understand the difference between the cassette and freewheel.
erikedosdad 8 months ago
can anyone fill me in, i took mine apart but when i did it looks a little different, and 1/8" bearings went everywhere when i pulled the cassette up. Its a Mongoose Crossway 250, not sure what year but is has the Shimano Altus c50 derailers if that helps any? Thanks!!!
jdsanchez473 8 months ago
@jdsanchez473 The rear hub that is spec'd on that bike comes with the Shimano TZ07 FREEWHEEL. The video is for a cassette on a FREEHUB style hub. If you pulled the freewheel body (cogs are attached to the freewheel on your bike) and bearings fell out, either the freewheel was totally blown, or the axle shaft was unscrewed (or broken) and your actual axle bearings fell out. For an excellent explanation of freewheel vs. freehub go to sheldonbrown(dot)com and look for his article on the sbjct.
WheeliePete 8 months ago
@WheeliePete Thanks!, i read up on freewheel vs freehub and now i see what i did... i took it apart instead of taking it off lol. Makes sense now. Could you please post a link to whatever site gave you the info on the bike i have? I would greatly appreciate it :)
jdsanchez473 8 months ago
@WheeliePete oh and i guess i could include that i got it back together (went to auto parts store and they happend to have a few 1/8" bearings to replace the ones i lost). I cleaned it up really good, put grease on the race, stuck the bearings to it and put it back together, rode it a mile or so and no issues (besides i still need to get to the wheel bearing on that side, which means getting the tool to remove (not take apart lol) the cassette.
jdsanchez473 8 months ago
thank you! just saved me a lot of damage :)
RoketSock 8 months ago
Thank you buddy. Nice video.
eshneto 8 months ago
Excellent video. Thanks!
UpperPaleolithicMan 8 months ago
Thank you for the great video!
Loaki9 9 months ago
I bought a sram rear casette, will I need a special hub?
chrislegend06 9 months ago
@chrislegend06 Nope, you just need a freehub body that is splined for the SRAM cassette. ie: Shimano compatible freehub.
WheeliePete 9 months ago
@WheeliePete thank you this helps me a lot i never thought that to change the casette is so easy
righter007 8 months ago
I've got the new freewheel installed now. Thanks a bunch WheeliePete. Your suggestions saved me some money as I was about to buy the wrong tools for this job and your help saved the day come install day. :D
MagnumForce51 9 months ago
そんな軽くない罠
shigechika 10 months ago
I was thinking about getting a new freewheel for my existing 700c rear rim. The main reason was that I need more torque on the first gear. I came across this one:
SHIMANO C-201 MEGA RANGE 6 SP
(a quick google search should get you a listing for this)
So my main question is if your video still applies to a Shimano 6 speed. The main difference is that my rim does NOT have the quick release feature. It's an old fashioned bolt on rim and was wondering if the removal/install was any different.
MagnumForce51 10 months ago
@MagnumForce51 The C-201 is a freewheel, not a freehub so you would need a freewheel remover like the park FR-1. They look similar except the FR-1 has MUCH longer splines to reach down into the freehweel body and engage the splines of the freewheel body. For excellent explanation of freewheel vs. freehub go to: sheldonbrown(dot)com
WheeliePete 10 months ago
@WheeliePete Thanks for the quick response.
Any tips on identifying what type my bike's current rim is using? If it's of the opposite type, then I'm in a pickle. I do plan to closely examine the rim. What I can say is that this bike is a Savannah Model# 56760 (Huffy brand) with original rims.
Yeah not exactly a high end bike, but I can easily upgrade it. But I have to do it in small steps given my small budget. ;)
Feel free to send me a personal message to continue this discussion.
MagnumForce51 10 months ago
@MagnumForce51 With your current system you are limited to freewheel units only. You could get different tooth count freewheels, but that's about it.
WheeliePete 10 months ago
You didn't mention it but, I noticed how you flipped your quick release lever backwards so it did not get scratched while you performed maintenance. I like that and I am going to start doing that.
OFFENSIVEWORDS 10 months ago
@OFFENSIVEWORDS LOL...I've been doing this stuff so long some things are just automatic, but yeah, you're right, it keeps the outside of the lever from getting scratched.
WheeliePete 9 months ago
thank u realy helpful
mangosh10 10 months ago
Thanks for posting this! Educational to say the least!
ukfan4sure1 11 months ago
I'm not able to get my stack off - I removed the lock nut and all else. Is it posible that the stack is a a part of the rim? Meaning, built in? It won't or can't come off the rim?
MainStBusinessMrktg 11 months ago
@MainStBusinessMrktg You could have a freewheel....or your cogs have chewed their way into your freehub body and are jammed.
WheeliePete 10 months ago
that is brilliant!! like it,
topaciosingko 11 months ago
... ekstra parts when u done .. :D
qosek86 11 months ago
hi i have a question, can i put a 9 speed back crankshaft on a 7 speed?
942doc1 11 months ago
@942doc1 A full shimano 9spd stack will not fit on a 7spd freehub. (It will fit on an 8spd freehub)
WheeliePete 10 months ago
great video!! also do you have video shows how to remove Dura Ace 7800 crantset
and what tool I'll need ? thanks a lot!!
epeng99 11 months ago
@epeng99 I'll see if I can get a video made soon for removing the external bearing cranks.
WheeliePete 11 months ago
thank you.I need this.
cockroach35 1 year ago
Thanks for sharing, very helpful!
Ief01 1 year ago
Very Informative,I have never seen this done before. Your explanation was very clear and concise,thanks heaps.
sunnyjoe66 1 year ago
cool vid! thanx for sharing!
relampago21 1 year ago
Tnx guy,,, this video was very helpful to me.....!!!
Dadsonrox 1 year ago
I have a lockring on my bike that looks entirely different and the tool doesnt work. what should I do? do they make different lockring removal tools? it's a suntour lockring.
ORTA47 1 year ago
It's much easier understanding the procedure by watching the video than reading a instruction.
Thanks for posting it.
allgoo19 1 year ago
hi, thanks for this video! i really need to clean out my cogs. BTW, is it possible to kill the allignment of the axle that goes through the hub? thanks
traxxasslash26 1 year ago
@traxxasslash26 Only if you start messing with the lock nuts on the axle.
WheeliePete 10 months ago
@WheeliePete - Hi, when I pedal my bike forward, the cogs rotate but sometimes the wheel won't. Is it time to replace the whole cassette? Does the cassette body come separately fromt he cogs? Thanks.
dhn901 1 year ago
I just watched a few videos on how to remove my cassette, and yours was the best. It was clear, easy to see and easy to understand. Thanks!
chenjeru 1 year ago
When i try this i use all my force and it still wont budge. does anyone know what i could do? thank you
Aaronkular 1 year ago
Very nice video friend! I learned with that! thank ya!
HIPHOPER2004 1 year ago
Very useful!
macvicious13 1 year ago
good vid
jrod8496 1 year ago
thank you for this....
tlh235 1 year ago
what is the spring for?
twoZkingRvette1fast 1 year ago
@WheeliePete - Hi, I have mavic askium wheels and a shimano ultegra 6700 cassette... But I have a very noisey cassette. I believe the lock ring is tight enough but there is some lateral movement i.e. forward and back. that is making noise. Help
comac1983 1 year ago
@comac1983 Mavic wheels sometimes require a thicker spacer than the 1mm one that is supplied with shimano 10spd cassette stacks. I had the exact same problem. I looked in my junk drawers and ended up using a cog spacer from an old 9spd stack, I put that spacer on the mavic freehub body, then the cassette stack and then the lockring would actually tighten the cogs down before bottoming out on the freehub body. If your cogs are loose and the lockring is tight, you need a bigger spacer.
WheeliePete 1 year ago
@WheeliePete Thanks, spot on, the bigger spacer did the trick!
comac1983 1 year ago
@WheeliePete
where can we find this spacer?
fwynn 1 year ago
@fwynn What spacer? The one behind the cassette stack? Those usually come with Shimano 10spd cassettes, you can get them from bike shops or the internet. Some new cassettes don't need them to fit on shimano free-hub bodies any more, I just got a new Sram 10spd stack and it was machined in such a way that it did not need any spacer behind it to torque down the cassette stack.
WheeliePete 1 year ago
Thank you for this great video!
BaDaZzLuNaTiC 1 year ago
@emile345 Yeah, just turn it until it's tight and then I like to go about 2-3 clicks of the teeth in the lockring cap past tight. Try it, you'll see. Torque wrench is great to have. I do use a torque wrench on the centerlock rotor caps. Just don't go crazy, you don't need to put a length of pipe on the end of the wrench or anything to tighten them...
WheeliePete 1 year ago
@WheeliePete, Very useful, thanks. You've saved me a lot of stress.
swingbeeeper 1 year ago
real nice vid
Riminge1000 1 year ago
LEGEND!
youdunoe 1 year ago
is there any way to get it apart without the removal tool?
ArrowCarnage 1 year ago
Not without messing up the lockring. The ghetto way to do it is with a hammer and flathead screwdriver, but just spend the $20 and buy the two tools from me and do it right. Seller id: Wheelie_Pete on eBay. :-)
WheeliePete 1 year ago
if u have a fixed gear what would you do if the hub is striped is there any way to fix that to rethread it without buying a new backrim
mcborres80 1 year ago
You can buy a new hub and re-lace the wheel, but if the threads are stripped on the hub you're probably screwed. (Even if you were able to fix the threads by chasing them with a die you probably wouldn't have much left to work with.)
WheeliePete 1 year ago
Nice and clear. Just what I needed. Thank you.
iahTalaS 1 year ago
Great video, a lot easier than I originally had thought. Now I feel more confident. Thanks.
adm458nelson 1 year ago
tks man perfect 100000%
fumaasantos2007 1 year ago
great video, i will change my own cassette from now on.
richardjweeks 1 year ago
Thank You very much! That was exactly, what I was looking for.
selfaktor 1 year ago
nice
superfisto 1 year ago
Thanks for that, told me everything I wanted to know!
llesdog 1 year ago
Thank you so much for this, I've been reading how to do this from various sources, but I could never follow what they were trying to explain. This video makes it so much easier.
Thanks you WheeliePete
retpyrc 1 year ago
Pete,
What do you do if you can't budge the locking ring? My son tried and I tried but it will not move at all.
LearnEnglishWeb 1 year ago
You can try more leverage. Slip a piece of pipe over the wrench to extend the length of the lever that is the wrench handle. You probably want two people at that point. One to hold the chainwhip and one to try and turn the wrench.
WheeliePete 1 year ago
@WheeliePete thanks that is just what I did and I got it changed and it works great now I can climb the mountains
LearnEnglishWeb 1 year ago
thanks for sharing. great vid!
JnglstTICAL 1 year ago
Nice video...when i have my bike upside down, pedal and watch the cassette...the cassette is rolling off its center (it doesn't spin flat)....kind of like a coin does going down on the table after you spin it...could this be a hub or axle problem???
rdhr151 1 year ago
There is some oscillation in the freehub, but not a lot. If it's moving around quite a bit the freehub body may be worn out.
WheeliePete 1 year ago
Having only three threads is one of the reasons to buy a chris king lock ring. They go into the hub body deeper then the regular lockrings from shimano and sram. You can get them in either titanium or aluminum and you only need to buy it once. I have a titanium one and it is definitely an improvement on the standard one that came with my xt cassette.
traingp7 2 years ago
Good to know! I've never had one come loose because I check that kind of stuff, but I've had friends' who've had the lockring work loose on a ride....no fun...
WheeliePete 1 year ago
Great video thanks
MultiAlxndr 2 years ago
Please excuse my retarded question I'm about to Ask. The "Quick-Release" nut on the hub. Whats the Proper Name? As in the Whole Pin, I see its easily removalable, And I would like the common measurements of the Rear Rim "Quick-Release" nut system
biocorpses 2 years ago
Hi Wheelie Pete my old 15 speed's cassette body fails at -10 C / 14 F or colder. Can i simply re-grease it? or do i have to replace it? the gears are fine.. its a old pos 1987 vintage & i dont want to put any bucks on it.
Hot80s 2 years ago
Not sure what you mean by "fails"? if it's that cold and it quits wanting to free-wheel backwards it's probably because the grease has thickened to the point that it doesn't want to free-wheel eaisly. A new, thinner grease might help...
WheeliePete 2 years ago
True, it actually it used to bind in reverse last year so i used motorcycle chain lube throughout the chain & gearset, it worked but started to stick & get clogged. By Failure i meant that it would simply quit locking the forward motion completely & leave you stranded right there, as if the chain fell off the gears. I lubed the set with mobil one 5w30 full synthetic & rode 30 mins in -15 C/ 5 F without a failure.
Hot80s 2 years ago
Okay, sounds like the prawls that engage the hub body got packed full of gunk and stayed stuck in the down position and wouldn't engage the interal points. It might not be a bad idea to just hose that body out with carb-cleaner and re-pack with a light grease that works in very cold weather. Synthetic oil is fine for a temporary fix, but it won't stay in place like a good grease will...
WheeliePete 2 years ago
What component level of cogset was that? Looked like ultegra or xt with the aluminum carrier and all.
goyherder 2 years ago
It's a 10spd Shimano Ultegra cassette stack on a mavic free-hub body.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
oh yea, is the thing you remove using the lockring tool a plate looking thing with 2 indents on top?
xkakashix12 2 years ago
It is a plate looking thing, but it has 12 grooves in it to correspond with the 12 splines on the lockring tool. What you are describing sounds like a freewheel, not a cassette style free-hub.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
hey pete! i'm not sure about my cassette but the cassette is a bit loose and i can wobble it a bit with my hand and when i pedal, i can see it wobble a bit. i can tighten this with a lockring tool right? and does it matter whether its a cassette or a freewheel?(as in is the tool used the same?) Thanks!
xkakashix12 2 years ago
If you can physically rock the gears back and forth with your hand and you feel play, there is something wrong. If you have a cassette, the lockring might be loose. If you have a free-wheel, then the free-wheel itself is probably worn out. There is a HUGE difference between free-wheel and cassette style free-hub bodies.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
great video, very informative. thank you.
mylifechoices 2 years ago
thanks for posting this video, it really helped me alot.
cheers
p3wnzor 2 years ago
If I'm not saving the cassette (converting it to a single speed), so I'm not worried about damaging them, is there a way to remove the cassette without the 2 special tools?
fightnuttube 2 years ago
My short answer would be no. I hate to see good parts get boogered up, but you "can" do it with vise-grips, a hammer, and a screw driver. You will damage the parts though... If you're going to convert to a single speed and use the free-hub body and just run spacers before and after the single cog, you will still need the lockring cap.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Great vid...have all the tools but it's been years since I've had to install a cassette so this is a great refresher. Many thanks for this and for saving me a trip to the shop. Keep the vids coming.
thundercoffler 2 years ago
great vid. thanks.
iat814 2 years ago
@ 1:57 it looks like there's a spacer left on the hub. My Ksyriums SSC SLs came with a 2mm spacer and the Shimano 6600 12-27 cassette comes with a 1mm spacer at the rear (see techdocs, and I can confirm the retail package included it). Which one do you have here and which one, or both, should I use? Currently I've removed the Shimano 1mm spacer since it seemed unnecessary, whilst removing the Mavic 2mm spacer caused a peculiar knocking noise under load.
koshua 2 years ago
I've run into that too with the spacer and Mavic issue. You need to run a spacer on 10spd Shimano cassette stacks if you are using a 8-9-10 compatible freehub body. Shimano made a specific free-hub for 10spd and then includes a 1mm spacer so that you can use the gears on any 8-9-10 freehub...HOWEVER...for whatever reason you need a thicker spacer for the mavic freehub. I didn't have a 2mm spacer so I just used a cog spacer from an old 9spd cassette.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
If you don't use a spacer you won't be able to tighten the cassette cogs down with the lockring. There should be no play at all in the cogs when you tighten the lockring down. If the cogs are loose your shifting will be horrible and the loose cogs will damage the body of the freehub.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Very good video mate. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do it!!
If you can do one one road bike headsets and Bottom brackets if you get the time that would be a big help also.
Best wishes
0918sj 2 years ago
Really helpful video, thanks!
I've got a problem, though. I'm trying to replace my back wheel because a few of the spokes have snapped. I've bought a new wheel (without the hub) and tools, but apparently, my bike has the lockring from hell. I've even tried putting WD-40 on it and tapping it with a hammer and it still won't come loose.
Do you have any tips for that?
clerlic 2 years ago
Get another person. Put a length of pipe on the chainwhip and a length of pipe on the wrench to increase leverage. Have the assistant hold the chainwhip and you run the wrench. By effectively extending the handle of the wrench you increase leverage DRAMATICALLY. The locking cap will either come off or you will break something. Make sure you secure the lockring tool with the quick release becaues if it pops out when you are using all kinds of leverage someone's going to get hurt.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Alright, will try that. Also what's been bothering me is that I don't seem to need the chain whip at all, the cassette doesn't spin if i try to open the locknut.
I have a Shimano 6-speed freewheel.
clerlic 2 years ago
If you have a freewheel you don't have a lockring cap, the freewheel itself is threaded onto the hub body. The tool to remove a freewheel looks like a lockring tool, but the splines are usually a lot longer. You need to get more leverage as freewheels are usually really, really, tight because they get tighter from pedaling action. Freewheels and freehubs (cassette style like in the video) are two entirely different animals. You need more leverage (longer wrench)
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Alright we managed to get it off by sticking the tool in a vice and rotating the wheel around. Was stuck pretty damn good, I was told that it was so tight because there was an aluminium and steel surfaces against each other.
clerlic 2 years ago
Good deal, I was typing my response to your last post when this one came through. Yeah, if you were able to put it in a vise you have a freewheel, not a cassette style freehub. The freewheels get so tight because just simply pedaling them tightens the freewheel body to the hub threads. So a few years of pedaling and continual tightening force can really lock those surfaces together. When you put it back together put a little anti-sieze on the threads in case you ever have to go back in there
WheeliePete 2 years ago
need to shw how to regrease the hub after you get the cassette off. thanks.
goodheadward 2 years ago
Repacking a free-hub body isn't basic maintenance and is generally unecessary (unless you've routinely submarined your rear hub.) If you need to get far enough into the rear hub that you need to dissassemble the free-hub body you really should have some advanced technical knowledge and mechanical skill in order to not booger things up worse than they were to begin with.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Thank you! The video was helpful and very nicely done.
renartfox 2 years ago
Great video, very clear, now I'm heading out to see if I learned anything, new cassette in hand
Guynoir2 2 years ago
best ever video! clear and precise instructions and very clear video to accompany it. have yet to try it out on my bike though...
glennthum279 2 years ago
this was very helpful but i just have a question. is it possibe to make the (bar thingy) that you mount the cogs on smaller? I want to turn a 6 speed into a single speed so i was wondering if i could just shorten it.
vPROTOTYPEv 2 years ago
You can't shorten the freehub body, but you can run spacers (to take the place of gears) on either side of a single cog. There are a couple companies that make kits to turn a multi-gear bike into a single speed.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Thanks! pretty simple, yet very clear and helpful.
tontonuy5 2 years ago
where can i get a lockring removal tool??
lewyssyewl 2 years ago
You can buy the lockring removal tool and chainwhip as a set from me. I sell them on eBay under seller ID: wheelie_pete, or you can contact me directly and we can work something out. I've got over 600 feedback on eBay 100% positive.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Thanks, very informative video. Great work and keep them coming!
russrem 2 years ago
Best video I've seen about cassette removal. Very clear.
haukurso 2 years ago
very nice
andreibranescu 2 years ago
nice one!
no need to go to the shop for this anymore.
motekbeats 2 years ago
Would this also work for a 7 speed cassette?
yvanster 2 years ago
Yup. Any cassette style rear end.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Good video. I have a new bike with a DA 7900 cassette and it makes a lot of clicking noise when I'm coasting - can I change that or quite it down?
Thanks again. Pete
pkelbe 2 years ago
The clicking is from the prawls inside the freehub body ratcheting. Don't mess with it....Some brands are louder than others. What are you doing coasting!!?? That sounds there to remind you to pedal! j/k
WheeliePete 2 years ago
haha i liked that last bit, i love my clicky hub
liamperks 2 years ago
thats a good sound, nice crisp ratcheting sound is your assurance of quality.
goyherder 2 years ago
I have a 6 spd cassette and im wondering if i can get one like with 8 or 9 is that possible?? And where can i get the special key??
skyliner288 2 years ago
You probably have a 6spd FREEWHEEL which is different than a cassette. On a freewheel the gears are affixed to the freewheel body and you unscrew the whole thing from the hub of the wheel. You will need the freewheel removal tool specific to that freewheel. To change to 8/9/10 speed cassette you will need a new hub (and new shifters, and new derailleur, etc.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
You don't need a chainwhip to unscrew a freewheel because the spline tool fits down inside the freewheel body and unscrews it (as well as the cogs) from the hub. The old problem with freewheels of course is that the axle's bearing on the drive side is at the hub (leaving a lot of axle essentially unsupported) whereas a cassette body has bearings supporting the axle farther out near the dropouts = more support for the axle.
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Very useful but you have a ridiculous amount of sprockets there... 10 right? What's up with that?
KawabungaFartingDude 2 years ago
Ummmm, that's a standard 10spd shimano road cassette stack...they've been around for a long time. Campagnolo has an 11spd stack now...
WheeliePete 2 years ago
Thanks Mr Pete. Very informative. I managed to sort my little problem in minutes.
Clickzapbingo 2 years ago
nice one
johnjamesaldous 2 years ago
you made an intimidating task seem reasonably simple, thanks alot, greatly appreciated.
monkeyboy85 2 years ago
great imfo thanx a lot
111zeppelin 2 years ago
good info. thx
wovvzer 2 years ago
Thank you Pete! Very good video! Thank you!
tiborrobit 3 years ago
Where can you get the Lockring Removal
dahgutone 3 years ago
I sell the chainwhip and lockring removal tool together on eBay. Seller Id: wheelie_pete
I almost always have them up for sale but if I don't check back in a few days.
WheeliePete 3 years ago