I have tried this technique 2 times this year people, one time with the drosera Capensis and another time with the Adelae, great resultst! About 80% succes. Rate grown in full sun in a hot greenhouse! Just make sure you have good ventilation...
Something else... Cephalotusses! This year i bought my first Cephalotusses, i have 13 now... Plus 5 leaf cuttings :) will this technique work for them as well? Because i just put the leaves in peat, keep it wet and bam, 1 month later, roots...
@STFUbelgium Glad to hear you've had good success with them. Interestingly, it appears that heat aids in striking of the leaves since I had good results with temps in the 90-95 F range for some spcs. I love Cephs too, and it sounds like you have an awesome collection. Mine is just the typical C. follicularis, but it colors up dark purple when given enough light. My plant has never produced leaves, so i haven't been able to try the water method on them, but I'd have to be that it would work...
@STFUbelgium wow, that's funny. are they under a natural photoperiod? My lack of leaves could be from never using less than a ~15 hour photoperiod under fluorescent lights...
@STFUbelgium Glad to hear you've had good success with them. Interestingly, it appears that heat aids in striking of the leaves since I had good results with temps in the 90-95 F range for some spcs. I love Cephs too, and it sounds like you have an awesome collection. Mine is just the typical C. follicularis, but it colors up dark purple when given enough light. My plant has never produced leaves, so i haven't been able to try the water method on them, but I'd have to bet that it would work...
I want to propagate my d.binata var multifida , should i cut the entire leaf (cut the leaf until the growth point ) or just take the dewy leaf and a lil stem? thanks!
@ivanFerdianAbimanyu You can use the entire leaf, or part of it. I normally take a full leaf and cut it into several pieces so it fits into the container I'm using. Parts from the petiole "stem" of D. binata make a few larger plantlets and the sticky part of the leaf forms many smaller plantlets
@kevinmeehan71 Yes it is. A west or east-facing windowsill has worked best for most growers, but sometimes south-facing windows work best. The reason for avoiding too much light intensity is that if the sunlight is too intense, the leaves can "fry" in the container and turn brown/limp quickly. But you can try some experimenting to see what works best in your conditions. You should see some buds developing in a month or less.
@Nepo35 That's not a good sign- usually that means the plant is infested with aphids. You should purchase an insecticide, such as Neem oil, make the appropriate dilution, and then spray or pour the water+neem mixture over the plant. keep me posted on the plant's status
ok so my cape sundew leaves are growing really low to the ground and its bulb is about a centimeter above the ground. is this normal? If not please tell me how to stop this. thanks =)
@NeoRider2435 Hmmm... it's a bit difficult for me to determine what's going on without pictures of your plant, but if the leaves have dew on them still, then it shouldn't be too much of a problem. But if it's possible, please go to my growsundews site and send me an email (which is shown at the bottom of the main page). I don't want to type it here due to spammer bots...
How do you keep them looking so good? My sundew's leaves don't look as "dewy" They start to get looking dried up and shrivelled and they aren't as sticky or as colorful as they used to be. Are they just getting old or am I not keeping them moist enough?
@TheKretchet Are you using this water-floating method? If you are, then it might work better for you if you completely submerge the leaves under water. This will prevent them from shriveling up from dehydration. As for coloring up, if they are not coloring up, then this might mean they're not getting enough light. It could also mean that the leaves you're using are too old. If this is the case, try using newly developed leaves and see if this works better. 75-80F+ temperatures also seem to help.
@ShakiraFan329 You can refer to my first response to this video... and I've emailed you my response for why your sundew won't produce dew, since I can't post links in these responses.
@ShakiraFan329 Placing them directly on the moss is actually preferred by some species compared to water propagation. However, the benefit of water propagation is that the leaf tissue will take a lot longer to decay than if you were to put it on the media right away (in most cases). Once the plantlets have emerged after floating in water, the leaf tissue is in better condition. At this time, when you transfer it to media, more energy can be provided to the offspring and growth will be faster.
@aidancosiah Window sill leaf propagation will work very well as long as temperatures remain in the appropriate range. If cold air seeps through the window during the winter, the leaves will take a lot longer to strike, or may not strike at all. A good range is 75-85 degrees F. If the window lets a lot of light through, the leaves may heat up too much in the container, which will destroy them. For example, east-facing windows work very well since there is no risk of overheating.
Yes. The water leaf cutting method will work extremely well with D. capensis typical, 'Albino' and 'Red' forms. However, it seems the Bains Kloof location form and the "Giant" form prefer leaf cuttings directly on dead long-fibered sphagnum or on a peat:sand mix.
I got a Venus flytrap from this site, it sells sundews and more. I also might get free leaf cuttings.
Try growing Venus flytraps, too.
ClubPenguinMaster88 1 month ago
@ClubPenguinMaster88 Congrats on the new purchase! I will definitely plan to give venus flytraps a shot when i get more room next year.
sundewman 1 month ago
Last but not least, is that beautiful plant in the background a Eden Black?!:D it looks so gorgeous, ooo that dark red colour! Love it!
STFUbelgium 3 months ago
I have tried this technique 2 times this year people, one time with the drosera Capensis and another time with the Adelae, great resultst! About 80% succes. Rate grown in full sun in a hot greenhouse! Just make sure you have good ventilation...
Something else... Cephalotusses! This year i bought my first Cephalotusses, i have 13 now... Plus 5 leaf cuttings :) will this technique work for them as well? Because i just put the leaves in peat, keep it wet and bam, 1 month later, roots...
Last but
STFUbelgium 3 months ago
@STFUbelgium Glad to hear you've had good success with them. Interestingly, it appears that heat aids in striking of the leaves since I had good results with temps in the 90-95 F range for some spcs. I love Cephs too, and it sounds like you have an awesome collection. Mine is just the typical C. follicularis, but it colors up dark purple when given enough light. My plant has never produced leaves, so i haven't been able to try the water method on them, but I'd have to be that it would work...
sundewman 3 months ago
@sundewman Haha, no leaves, that's pretty cool! I now have 2 pitcherless cephalotusses with about 15 leaves each! ;)
And yes, will surely continue propagation next year, i will keep you updated!
Long live carnivorous plants ;) people like us maintain the wonderful beauties of the nature!
STFUbelgium 3 months ago
@STFUbelgium wow, that's funny. are they under a natural photoperiod? My lack of leaves could be from never using less than a ~15 hour photoperiod under fluorescent lights...
sundewman 2 months ago
@sundewman Yes, it is as natural as it could get :) Belgium climate looks a lot like south Australian climate! It's just not as humid. :)
STFUbelgium 2 months ago
Comment removed
ilovesundews12 1 month ago
@STFUbelgium Glad to hear you've had good success with them. Interestingly, it appears that heat aids in striking of the leaves since I had good results with temps in the 90-95 F range for some spcs. I love Cephs too, and it sounds like you have an awesome collection. Mine is just the typical C. follicularis, but it colors up dark purple when given enough light. My plant has never produced leaves, so i haven't been able to try the water method on them, but I'd have to bet that it would work...
sundewman 3 months ago
I want to propagate my d.binata var multifida , should i cut the entire leaf (cut the leaf until the growth point ) or just take the dewy leaf and a lil stem? thanks!
ivanFerdianAbimanyu 5 months ago
@ivanFerdianAbimanyu You can use the entire leaf, or part of it. I normally take a full leaf and cut it into several pieces so it fits into the container I'm using. Parts from the petiole "stem" of D. binata make a few larger plantlets and the sticky part of the leaf forms many smaller plantlets
sundewman 5 months ago
is sunlight enough to start the seedling process shown in the video ?:)
kevinmeehan71 5 months ago
@kevinmeehan71 Yes it is. A west or east-facing windowsill has worked best for most growers, but sometimes south-facing windows work best. The reason for avoiding too much light intensity is that if the sunlight is too intense, the leaves can "fry" in the container and turn brown/limp quickly. But you can try some experimenting to see what works best in your conditions. You should see some buds developing in a month or less.
sundewman 5 months ago
@sundewman. I sprayed diluted insecticide. The aphids are all gone. Hopefully the plant makes it. But it looks better now. Thanks
Nepo35 6 months ago
@Nepo35 ok, great. well i hope it pulls through!
sundewman 5 months ago
My paradoxa has tiny yellowish white things all over it! what to do! The plant seems weaker
Nepo35 6 months ago
@Nepo35 That's not a good sign- usually that means the plant is infested with aphids. You should purchase an insecticide, such as Neem oil, make the appropriate dilution, and then spray or pour the water+neem mixture over the plant. keep me posted on the plant's status
sundewman 6 months ago
@sundewman please answer this asap
ok so my cape sundew leaves are growing really low to the ground and its bulb is about a centimeter above the ground. is this normal? If not please tell me how to stop this. thanks =)
NeoRider2435 7 months ago
@NeoRider2435 Hmmm... it's a bit difficult for me to determine what's going on without pictures of your plant, but if the leaves have dew on them still, then it shouldn't be too much of a problem. But if it's possible, please go to my growsundews site and send me an email (which is shown at the bottom of the main page). I don't want to type it here due to spammer bots...
sundewman 7 months ago
How do you keep them looking so good? My sundew's leaves don't look as "dewy" They start to get looking dried up and shrivelled and they aren't as sticky or as colorful as they used to be. Are they just getting old or am I not keeping them moist enough?
TheKretchet 10 months ago
@TheKretchet Are you using this water-floating method? If you are, then it might work better for you if you completely submerge the leaves under water. This will prevent them from shriveling up from dehydration. As for coloring up, if they are not coloring up, then this might mean they're not getting enough light. It could also mean that the leaves you're using are too old. If this is the case, try using newly developed leaves and see if this works better. 75-80F+ temperatures also seem to help.
sundewman 10 months ago
how long do they stay in that case
bladefans123 1 year ago
That's a lot of droseras you have there! I'm jealous ): Cool video. Thanks for posting!
lacus1992 1 year ago
And one more thing: How could I do this with a venus fly trap?
ShakiraFan329 1 year ago
Oh thx
Would this work for D.Capensis? And I have another q why won't my d produce any dew?
ShakiraFan329 1 year ago
@ShakiraFan329 You can refer to my first response to this video... and I've emailed you my response for why your sundew won't produce dew, since I can't post links in these responses.
sundewman 1 year ago
Why do you place the cuttings in water why not place them straight in the moss?
ShakiraFan329 1 year ago
@ShakiraFan329 Placing them directly on the moss is actually preferred by some species compared to water propagation. However, the benefit of water propagation is that the leaf tissue will take a lot longer to decay than if you were to put it on the media right away (in most cases). Once the plantlets have emerged after floating in water, the leaf tissue is in better condition. At this time, when you transfer it to media, more energy can be provided to the offspring and growth will be faster.
sundewman 1 year ago
I do not have a grow light i keep all my cp's in the window do i need a giant tube light or will the window work
aidancosiah 1 year ago
@aidancosiah Window sill leaf propagation will work very well as long as temperatures remain in the appropriate range. If cold air seeps through the window during the winter, the leaves will take a lot longer to strike, or may not strike at all. A good range is 75-85 degrees F. If the window lets a lot of light through, the leaves may heat up too much in the container, which will destroy them. For example, east-facing windows work very well since there is no risk of overheating.
sundewman 1 year ago
But wut if you dont have a tube light and all your cp's grow in a window ciel
aidancosiah 1 year ago
Yes. The water leaf cutting method will work extremely well with D. capensis typical, 'Albino' and 'Red' forms. However, it seems the Bains Kloof location form and the "Giant" form prefer leaf cuttings directly on dead long-fibered sphagnum or on a peat:sand mix.
sundewman 1 year ago
Um will this work with a cape sundew?
aidancosiah 1 year ago