very interesting. I've never seen it before.I am curious about how it would work on a hardwood here in the Northwest as opposed to a more stringy wood like palm or even the cottonwood and poplar . But I think I can see it working well. Good vid and thanks for the info. I learned something new today.
anyone tried this on medium sized (16''dbh) northern hardwoods or conifer (norway spruce/scotch pine)? it's interesting, but palm and hardwoods are not the same animals.
Really, so are you suggesting that the techniques for felling palms are different to felling trees? Because if that is the case then all books and instructions need to be dealt with as I have not ever seen any difference. The principals remain the same and many people have felled trees using this method (read comments here even). The only real issue with this demonstration is the back cut should have been a little lower, that's all.
@Ekka007 i'm suggesting that all trees grow differently. i'm suggesting that each species of tree grows differently than any other species. i'm suggesting that a 12'' palm is different than a 32'' red oak or a 22'' beech or a 20'' hemlock or a 20'' spruce. i'm suggesting that because of these differences, they might all react differently to the same type of stimulus. i ASKED THE QUESTION because i live up north and have never seen a tree cut in that manner. figured i'd ask before i tried it out.
@falco1066 for felling a tree against its lean. this way you can get a wedge into it before releasing it, and then just pound it all the way over once you have.
I could have used this technique on some dodgy black locust trees last month. There are still some left though so I have that to look forward to! I'm in the USA, by the way. Great vid!
No, anything where there is not enough room behind the bar to pound a wedge in, there's also the 1/4 cut technique (look in my videos for it) so you have a few tricks up your sleeve.
@Ekka007 why not just do your back cut first and then put a wedge in and then your front cut its safer tha way who's to say the wood doesent hold on one side and roll the tree one way or the other
I have to say That's an AMAZING cut!!! Guides the fall perfectly!!! I wish I would have known it this fall when I was felling old Ponderosas in Idaho, question though, what the maximum DBH that this cut will work on? I could see really having to pound (though quite safely) on that wedge if the the tree was any larger then say 16" DBH.
Well, you need to be able to bore through the tree so unless you are really good at lining up a cut from the back of the tree with the front of the tree I would say you stick to trees DBH of bar length. It is also designed for smaller trees, the idea being you cant get a wedge behind the bar. I don't do this for big trees.
That's pretty interesting. Never heard of that one. I usually put the back cut in first, pound your wedge tight, then put your undercut and face in to a reasonable hinge, then pound over. In this business, a guy learns something new every day. When one quits learning, then it is time to get out. Thanks!
I have used this style of felling in the bush logging it is great for little trees that you cant get a wedge in with a normal back cut. but i would only use it if i had a tree that was a bit difficult to read. Good demo of this technique
This technique might work ok on a palm but on a fir, redwood,or hemlock,...I don't know....I'll try it.... ..one other problem..making your 'sidecuts' withe tip of the chainsaw...that's inviting kickback....just call me "lefty"
Well Lefty, it's the top of the nose of the bar that is the danger kickback zone. And Lefty, those two cuts are back cuts not side cuts. Bore cuts also have a similar technique using the underside of the nose.... nothing scary if you know what tyou are doing, chainsaw carvers/sculptures have a narrow pointy bar to work exclusively with the nose. Bit of practice and you might come back all "Righty" eh.
and to those who think it's too slow to use practically, it really isn't! a tiny bit longer to set up than a conventional face, but if it allows wedges where conventional would not, then it saves you the time of hanging a line...
One thing i've learned is NOT to snug the wedge too much prior too making the back cuts... i just knock it in with my hand to begin, otherwise it'll push too much tension and things get funny... (and not in a good way...:)
Thanks for the vid! I came across this right around the time you put it up and i've put it to pretty good use. I don't use it often but man! it's come in very handy several times! ...and it pretty much makes me cooler than any of the other guys on the crew when i can bust it out and show how to use wedges on those skinny trees! :P
@Marcus538 they have a fibrous root system(like a real thick woven mat)it would take a pretty big machine to pull it out.best to cut then grind downand fill the hole with dirt.
Hi !! your videos are amazing, have to made a recopilation and upload to rapidshare. com, will be the experience of a professional ... specially this technique I will use it for a more controled fall and fancy job, because Im an amateur ax-men =). Greetings.
looks like the tongue and groove itself actually provides a quasi like hinge which would compliment the 2 strips of hinge you left. not sure how much resistance exactly but definitely causes some resistance. what I like about these various techniques is that i have always just put a rope on the tree and it really isnt always necessary. I can think of countless hours i would have saved felling stuff solo while my crew was busy hauling out stuff instead of working with me to set ropes, etc.
Thanks. This is a bonafide tehnique known to most trained fallers. It is also mentioned in Jeff Jepsom's recent book "To Fell a Tree", he's a Yank so I take it that means the technique is also recognised outside of Australia. For those cyberspace ignorant trolls it just shows why I have so little time for them. If anything my back cut was a little high. For those who dar engage conversation like fastflo1 ask yourself how you fell a hollow tree?
Trick looking cut, but really, you are cutting all of the hinge off, the holding wood. The most important part for controlling your drop. Plus, tongue and groove is for decking. Try that on a real tree in storm conditions, and see your results, cut your hinge off on a 150 foot plus and see that pop right out of that slot. Ha Ha! Funny
Sure, ring me, I'll have my video camera ready to see how you stop a tree falling ... maye we could even get lucky and have it return to the original felling position eh.
There is absolutely no controlling the tree as it is falling. with the way you showed when i fell a tree I control it not just drop it how would you stop it if some thing came in front of the tree very time consuming cut.
Wow, stopping a tree whilst it's falling in case something is coming! And what about the part where you say there's no controlling this tree as it is falling .... unbelievable especially coming from some-one with 18 years tree cutting experience. Best you give it away mate coz you got no idea.
This video shows some flaws in his technique, but it does have a practical use.
This is a method to use when working against a lean on a tree when there isn't enough room to put in a wedge before your done with your back-cut. As long as you leave hinge wood on the corners you should be ok.
Most obviously what is wrong with this is how high his back cut is. It is almost above the top of his angle cut.
i would suggest using the conventional face cut...It's the pretty much the easiest to use. There are a couple of good videos on here explaining how to make those cuts, look for the videos put on here from "the progressive farmer" with Tim Ard doing the cutting. The conventional face cut is what I use on almost all of the trees that i fall. if you have any trouble finding those videos I will try to post a link on this video of that video that I was telling you about.
Note: this trick won't overcome TOO much lean. I dropped a pine about 20 degrees off the lay when it pulled the hinge wood and just flopped over halfway between where I wanted it to fall and where IT wanted to fall. It was too small to use any wedges, so I was hoping for the best. No harm done, but a lesson learned.
by the way, those two side cuts, they look like they're going about 2/3 of the way through the tree front to back. Is that right? I guess you'd still need to leave a hinge so they can't go all the way through to the felling cut
That's right, always leave a hinge. If you cut all the way through then you have no hinge and no control. The hinge wood serves 2 purposes, one is a pivot and two is direction.
I am just doing my training at the moment, is this also known as a letterbox cut? Or am I completely mistaken (probably). Are there many Arborist jobs in Australia? I want to move either there or New Zealand if possible.
Thats pretty cool way of controling directional fall. Im a Qualified Arborist Ive used this method before, but it was never taught at tafe. Is handy on in certain situations "dcook395" you moron, theres always some hero goona criticise, good job Ekka 007. Check out some large tree felling in my favorites.
I have an maul and a block splitter however used the claw hammer as many trees here get a good dose of nails in them for lights etc, so I just get used to using that. It also shows that you dont need a sledge hammer.
The point of the technique ...
You would primarily use that when the tree is too thin to get a wedge behind the bar.
You could also use it when you have a slight side lean.
Thanks for the technique. I used it this weekend on a red maple. It was leaning badly over my brother inlaws naibors shed. Base was about 22 inches. Maybe around 35ft. No crown and after around 25ft the rest was rotted. I thought I'd try this method hoping it would hold good on the non lean side enough so that it would clear the shed. The tree was leaning at about 75 deg. The method left enough hold on the non lean side for me to have time to go help pull on the pull line. Thanks again.
smart
jonbasson 5 days ago
i was going to say this was stupid until i saw it fall and realized its actually pretty fucking nifty lol.
nikesb2406 6 days ago
but but but why ??
inglof 6 days ago
very interesting. I've never seen it before.I am curious about how it would work on a hardwood here in the Northwest as opposed to a more stringy wood like palm or even the cottonwood and poplar . But I think I can see it working well. Good vid and thanks for the info. I learned something new today.
Thehoelogdog 1 week ago
nice idea good for small trees
keanan00709alex 3 weeks ago
TIMBERRRRRR !!!
Akseouljah213 2 months ago
5 stars for the tip 0 stars for the obnoxious music.
docrw 2 months ago
Nice perfect for custom tree work but nothing beats the ole hinge cut when it comes to logging 28+ DBH trees, gonna try it on one of them though.
momatried1952 2 months ago
ive used tihs technique on black wattles and gum trees works good
MegaCat312 3 months ago
Nice vid, and what a great idea, will keep that one in the back pocket for when i get to NZ.
reef9932 4 months ago
anyone tried this on medium sized (16''dbh) northern hardwoods or conifer (norway spruce/scotch pine)? it's interesting, but palm and hardwoods are not the same animals.
ShawnDRichman 4 months ago
@ShawnDRichman
Really, so are you suggesting that the techniques for felling palms are different to felling trees? Because if that is the case then all books and instructions need to be dealt with as I have not ever seen any difference. The principals remain the same and many people have felled trees using this method (read comments here even). The only real issue with this demonstration is the back cut should have been a little lower, that's all.
Ekka007 4 months ago
@Ekka007 i'm suggesting that all trees grow differently. i'm suggesting that each species of tree grows differently than any other species. i'm suggesting that a 12'' palm is different than a 32'' red oak or a 22'' beech or a 20'' hemlock or a 20'' spruce. i'm suggesting that because of these differences, they might all react differently to the same type of stimulus. i ASKED THE QUESTION because i live up north and have never seen a tree cut in that manner. figured i'd ask before i tried it out.
lcplusmc04 4 months ago
Looks like a good way to control the direction of fall as opposed to just a typical wedge/pie cut.
mobius1aic 7 months ago
This techique works excellent. I just used it today on three back leaning trees.
NoJokeVids 7 months ago
Yeh, quite good that, I've been educated with a well shot video. Thumbs up!
StevesProjects 8 months ago
Nice, but a very unsustainable way to pick dates, wouldn't you say?
(LOL, just kidding, good way to bring down a palm safely, volume off and thumbs up)
Mikdeelo 8 months ago
nice work
topfintuna 9 months ago
Nice work and interesting directional felling technique.
taan2011 9 months ago
good work, ive never see this before, in what situations would use this type of cut?
falco1066 9 months ago
@falco1066 for felling a tree against its lean. this way you can get a wedge into it before releasing it, and then just pound it all the way over once you have.
kane5187 8 months ago
I could have used this technique on some dodgy black locust trees last month. There are still some left though so I have that to look forward to! I'm in the USA, by the way. Great vid!
localcrew 10 months ago
Good stuff. What's the song btw?
SuperDriedFruit 10 months ago
@SuperDriedFruit
Jackyl, I stand alone
Ekka007 10 months ago
I am impressed! Pardon the question, but what is DBH?
EdVidz 10 months ago
@EdVidz
Diameter at breast height
Ekka007 10 months ago
Nice hinge and gob cut.
grandad1982 10 months ago
Cool! I'm gonna try that some time.
shkunk1 11 months ago
nice skills my friend
cnshroom 11 months ago
Interesting. But, that looks to time consuming.
treemonkey1994 11 months ago
That was a super sexy technique! Well done!
boopball 1 year ago
Really cool! My husband and I have learned something new! Love it. Where did you learn that?
hisreadybride 1 year ago
@hisreadybride
treeworld.info forum members discussed it, so I videoed it
Ekka007 1 year ago
only for palm trees? that cut?
Made247Taylor 1 year ago
@Made247Taylor
No, anything where there is not enough room behind the bar to pound a wedge in, there's also the 1/4 cut technique (look in my videos for it) so you have a few tricks up your sleeve.
Ekka007 1 year ago
@Ekka007 why not just do your back cut first and then put a wedge in and then your front cut its safer tha way who's to say the wood doesent hold on one side and roll the tree one way or the other
norcallogger 1 year ago
I have to say That's an AMAZING cut!!! Guides the fall perfectly!!! I wish I would have known it this fall when I was felling old Ponderosas in Idaho, question though, what the maximum DBH that this cut will work on? I could see really having to pound (though quite safely) on that wedge if the the tree was any larger then say 16" DBH.
basqueofiasco 1 year ago
@basqueofiasco
Well, you need to be able to bore through the tree so unless you are really good at lining up a cut from the back of the tree with the front of the tree I would say you stick to trees DBH of bar length. It is also designed for smaller trees, the idea being you cant get a wedge behind the bar. I don't do this for big trees.
Ekka007 1 year ago
Ha, I like how you just so conviently parked your truck in the back so everyone sees your service.
Siksaneity77 1 year ago
@Siksaneity77
Always pays to think ahead and kill more than one bird with one stone. LOL
Ekka007 1 year ago
That's pretty interesting. Never heard of that one. I usually put the back cut in first, pound your wedge tight, then put your undercut and face in to a reasonable hinge, then pound over. In this business, a guy learns something new every day. When one quits learning, then it is time to get out. Thanks!
timberfaller666 1 year ago
@timberfaller666 just how you described it also i hate to see people do a lazy loggers cut puting the undercut over the face
norcallogger 1 year ago
thats AWESOME buddy well done ...
truck501 1 year ago
More like dove tail joint :)
ArtisanTony 1 year ago
good song choice !
groh1234 1 year ago
best video :D will be trying this one also love trashy rockbands recomend jackyls 'lumberjack' song
StumpyMcJackson 1 year ago
Very interesting , thanks for sharing.
cammocam 1 year ago
good job;)
alejandro198325 1 year ago
hahahahah 1: 20, looks like a chinese with a cigarrete in his mouth
bozepiemeltje 1 year ago
I have used this style of felling in the bush logging it is great for little trees that you cant get a wedge in with a normal back cut. but i would only use it if i had a tree that was a bit difficult to read. Good demo of this technique
mickwalker82 1 year ago
Did some tree work today,almost killed myself so I thought I look at the pros to get some pointers.Cool vid and great song too.
josemezatorrez 1 year ago
Brilliant, thanks for showing how to do it right, had a go last week, much better than what i was doing before!
Posted my attempt as' tree time.wmv', not as neat, need some practice and a bigger saw.....
chrisjpsmith 1 year ago
Bugger me mate you cop a bit of flack about this technique off the experts, i enjoyed it and the music.
Cheers
ShmeareD 1 year ago
"Experts" ?? Many are just trolls and wannabes I assure you.
Ekka007 1 year ago
@Ekka007 I think you missed the sarcasm in my comment ;)
ShmeareD 1 year ago
@ShmeareD LOL,what is missed is all the unapproved and deleted comments.
Ekka007 1 year ago
Very cool!
mountaindomina 1 year ago
this a good cut for small trees lernt it at school lol
neiltt500 1 year ago
Wow!
bbowell 1 year ago
SHOW OFF!! EVEN CUT THE BUTT OFF AND FIT IT TO THE STUMP.. NICE... GOOD JOB, GOOD VID, AND GOOD MUSIC!! I WILL HAVE TO TRY THIS... THANKS!
ety4238 1 year ago
This technique might work ok on a palm but on a fir, redwood,or hemlock,...I don't know....I'll try it.... ..one other problem..making your 'sidecuts' withe tip of the chainsaw...that's inviting kickback....just call me "lefty"
heresjohnny888 1 year ago
Well Lefty, it's the top of the nose of the bar that is the danger kickback zone. And Lefty, those two cuts are back cuts not side cuts. Bore cuts also have a similar technique using the underside of the nose.... nothing scary if you know what tyou are doing, chainsaw carvers/sculptures have a narrow pointy bar to work exclusively with the nose. Bit of practice and you might come back all "Righty" eh.
Ekka007 1 year ago
and to those who think it's too slow to use practically, it really isn't! a tiny bit longer to set up than a conventional face, but if it allows wedges where conventional would not, then it saves you the time of hanging a line...
One thing i've learned is NOT to snug the wedge too much prior too making the back cuts... i just knock it in with my hand to begin, otherwise it'll push too much tension and things get funny... (and not in a good way...:)
thanks again!
jdanoliver 1 year ago
Thanks for the vid! I came across this right around the time you put it up and i've put it to pretty good use. I don't use it often but man! it's come in very handy several times! ...and it pretty much makes me cooler than any of the other guys on the crew when i can bust it out and show how to use wedges on those skinny trees! :P
jdanoliver 1 year ago
HaHa... city foresters...
JosephKrammer 1 year ago
revolutionary! 23yrs in the biz never seen it. thanx for sharing. will try it on mon.
lionchaser6 1 year ago
excellent vid. Very controlled fell.
prayfortruejustice 1 year ago
Brilliant!
Knut3 1 year ago
best thing to do with damn palm trees 5*
hendotintco 1 year ago
why dont you cut te roots then pull tree out with engine hoist or truck before cutting tree, use leverage of tree to get roots out?
just a question ive always wanted to know te answer to
Marcus538 1 year ago
@Marcus538 they have a fibrous root system(like a real thick woven mat)it would take a pretty big machine to pull it out.best to cut then grind downand fill the hole with dirt.
hendotintco 1 year ago
Slick! I'm going to try that technique on the smaller timber (leaving some hinge wood of course)
lethallarry1 1 year ago
Hi !! your videos are amazing, have to made a recopilation and upload to rapidshare. com, will be the experience of a professional ... specially this technique I will use it for a more controled fall and fancy job, because Im an amateur ax-men =). Greetings.
joey101980 1 year ago
I like it! But whats the benefit to felling this way?
richprint29 1 year ago
It used when the dia of the tree is too small to get a wedge in behind the bar
Ekka007 1 year ago
@Ekka007 thank you it really useful idea
damninfidel 1 year ago
did it have any nuts?
paronfisk 2 years ago
beautiful! unfortunetly so was the tree thow lolz.
zuuluu1 2 years ago
The tree is a cocos palm, Syagrus romanzoffiana, and considered a weed here.
Ekka007 2 years ago
Great Demo!!!
tomkinson 2 years ago
no chaps on naught boy.. must be a dodgy aussie
Narangba 2 years ago
Video was shot prior to 2007 OHS regulation you assumptive idiot!
Ekka007 2 years ago
This is the coolest thing I've seen since the time my cousin Skillet found a dead hooker in the river!
sweeneysister 2 years ago
How is palm tree to burn!
Stihlpony 2 years ago
Terrible, full of water.
Ekka007 2 years ago
agreed
worst tree I've ever tried to burn
after about 6 fires I gave up and used it as new sides for the fire pit
gratewhitehuntr 2 years ago
COOL
motofetzer 2 years ago
very nice trick !!! :)
STMN69 2 years ago
Well good Idea :D However nothing for daly use, especially when you cut down proper trees ;) it is simply too elaborate... But nice technique
choisl 2 years ago
"Intresting"
Westcoasty08 2 years ago
Smart! Clever! But it works with every kind of tree??? Next week I'll try with fir .
ciampo1850 2 years ago
it should work...have ya tried yet? I'm debating on Spruce & or Poplar
STMN69 2 years ago
looks like the tongue and groove itself actually provides a quasi like hinge which would compliment the 2 strips of hinge you left. not sure how much resistance exactly but definitely causes some resistance. what I like about these various techniques is that i have always just put a rope on the tree and it really isnt always necessary. I can think of countless hours i would have saved felling stuff solo while my crew was busy hauling out stuff instead of working with me to set ropes, etc.
stirmantrees 2 years ago
excellent job again ekka. You do a good job clearly showing the technique.
Looked like there was some hinge wood on it to me.
stirmantrees 2 years ago
Thanks. This is a bonafide tehnique known to most trained fallers. It is also mentioned in Jeff Jepsom's recent book "To Fell a Tree", he's a Yank so I take it that means the technique is also recognised outside of Australia. For those cyberspace ignorant trolls it just shows why I have so little time for them. If anything my back cut was a little high. For those who dar engage conversation like fastflo1 ask yourself how you fell a hollow tree?
Ekka007 2 years ago
interesting. hmmmmm.
stirmantrees 2 years ago
Trick looking cut, but really, you are cutting all of the hinge off, the holding wood. The most important part for controlling your drop. Plus, tongue and groove is for decking. Try that on a real tree in storm conditions, and see your results, cut your hinge off on a 150 foot plus and see that pop right out of that slot. Ha Ha! Funny
fastflo1 2 years ago
Oh really, you need to see either an optomtrist or a shrink! Cutting all the hinge, bugger me, must be idiot hour.
Ekka007 2 years ago
@fastflo1 Shit mate I reckon you could just about drop a 150 footer in a storm with your teeth the way that mouth of yours goes!
Cheers
ShmeareD 1 year ago
I'll be glad to show ya mate. be up in a couple of days.. just for you
TheLumberjacktreesc 2 years ago
Sure, ring me, I'll have my video camera ready to see how you stop a tree falling ... maye we could even get lucky and have it return to the original felling position eh.
Ekka007 2 years ago
pretty cool man!
mntbiker2008 2 years ago
There is absolutely no controlling the tree as it is falling. with the way you showed when i fell a tree I control it not just drop it how would you stop it if some thing came in front of the tree very time consuming cut.
TheLumberjacktreesc 2 years ago
Wow, stopping a tree whilst it's falling in case something is coming! And what about the part where you say there's no controlling this tree as it is falling .... unbelievable especially coming from some-one with 18 years tree cutting experience. Best you give it away mate coz you got no idea.
Ekka007 2 years ago
There is no practical use for this cut.
grufrock 2 years ago
Well here comes another genius! LOL
Ekka007 2 years ago
Exactly!
fastflo1 2 years ago
This video shows some flaws in his technique, but it does have a practical use.
This is a method to use when working against a lean on a tree when there isn't enough room to put in a wedge before your done with your back-cut. As long as you leave hinge wood on the corners you should be ok.
Most obviously what is wrong with this is how high his back cut is. It is almost above the top of his angle cut.
jimmyab17 2 years ago
Yep, little lower guys
Ekka007 2 years ago
Interesting. But you won't win any safety awards reaching up to remove the wedge from beside the bar with the saw still idling.
brucec43 2 years ago
Lordy, another wanker!
Ekka007 2 years ago
Genius
itlldoktm 2 years ago
It seems to me that this type of notch makes the tree fall really slow. Cool
ronnyb1968 2 years ago
Q - is there a need for this technique?
A - No
tommynakagima 2 years ago
6 months ago this was answered. Here it is again.
The point of the technique ...
You would primarily use that when the tree is too thin to get a wedge behind the bar.
Ekka007 2 years ago
Wow, I have been cutting trees all my life and have never seen a cut like that before. It was cool, good job.
benthetreeguy 2 years ago
Nice neat job impressed
TEDCFC 2 years ago
Awesome!
JeremyAllenF18 2 years ago
are all you tree guys dumbass's or what
STEELE31685 2 years ago
In my opinion that's just a novelty cut...I personally wouldn't use that on a day to day basis....but none the less pretty cool
cyoung927 2 years ago
What type of cut would you suggest for day to day? I am about to under take alot of cutting and I really don't want to be killed. :)
JeremyAllenF18 2 years ago
i would suggest using the conventional face cut...It's the pretty much the easiest to use. There are a couple of good videos on here explaining how to make those cuts, look for the videos put on here from "the progressive farmer" with Tim Ard doing the cutting. The conventional face cut is what I use on almost all of the trees that i fall. if you have any trouble finding those videos I will try to post a link on this video of that video that I was telling you about.
Good luck and stay safe
cyoung927 2 years ago
I would like to see you try that on a big dug fir.
cumminsguy707 2 years ago
Very cool video and technique!! Thank you for sharing.
Is there a situation where this technique would be preferred over other techniques?
MrSamHell 2 years ago
great video once again ekka mate. what type of chainsaw are you using there mate?
beazo007 2 years ago
Note: this trick won't overcome TOO much lean. I dropped a pine about 20 degrees off the lay when it pulled the hinge wood and just flopped over halfway between where I wanted it to fall and where IT wanted to fall. It was too small to use any wedges, so I was hoping for the best. No harm done, but a lesson learned.
madhatte73 2 years ago
Yes true, in critical situations always side rope or have a back up plan and leave a thicker hinge the side opposite the lean.
Ekka007 2 years ago
Interesting video, once again, shitty music.
smewr 2 years ago
That's because I had to match your personality! LOL
Ekka007 2 years ago
Why not just use a split level back cut or quarter cut it, much faster
totalnz 2 years ago
That is on another video
Ekka007 2 years ago
Quite interesting, this gives more controll over the direction you want the tree to fall.
Mueiwark 2 years ago
nicely done
BourbonWhiskies 2 years ago
by the way, those two side cuts, they look like they're going about 2/3 of the way through the tree front to back. Is that right? I guess you'd still need to leave a hinge so they can't go all the way through to the felling cut
deirup510 2 years ago
That's right, always leave a hinge. If you cut all the way through then you have no hinge and no control. The hinge wood serves 2 purposes, one is a pivot and two is direction.
Ekka007 2 years ago
i might try that on the oak leaning twoard my house
kalob35 2 years ago
that was cool as hell. At first I didn't get where you going with it, but that is cool
deirup510 2 years ago
wow that was cool
br0d 2 years ago
I am just doing my training at the moment, is this also known as a letterbox cut? Or am I completely mistaken (probably). Are there many Arborist jobs in Australia? I want to move either there or New Zealand if possible.
tomwash1 2 years ago
I enjoyed the vid and learned a new technique - thanks!
gammadriver 2 years ago
Thats pretty cool way of controling directional fall. Im a Qualified Arborist Ive used this method before, but it was never taught at tafe. Is handy on in certain situations "dcook395" you moron, theres always some hero goona criticise, good job Ekka 007. Check out some large tree felling in my favorites.
murphoioioi 2 years ago
Im curious whats the point for this technique? and dude buy an ax, using a claw hammer thats just embarrasing
dcook395 2 years ago
I have an maul and a block splitter however used the claw hammer as many trees here get a good dose of nails in them for lights etc, so I just get used to using that. It also shows that you dont need a sledge hammer.
The point of the technique ...
You would primarily use that when the tree is too thin to get a wedge behind the bar.
You could also use it when you have a slight side lean.
Ekka007 2 years ago
Thanks for the technique. I used it this weekend on a red maple. It was leaning badly over my brother inlaws naibors shed. Base was about 22 inches. Maybe around 35ft. No crown and after around 25ft the rest was rotted. I thought I'd try this method hoping it would hold good on the non lean side enough so that it would clear the shed. The tree was leaning at about 75 deg. The method left enough hold on the non lean side for me to have time to go help pull on the pull line. Thanks again.
441MPYSstihl 2 years ago
its all about your hinge wood, but it looks cool anyways
25chinny 3 years ago
what a cute chainsaw ill oil ur blade
sneakyvids 3 years ago
Great technique! Can u please tell me who the music is by? It sounds like Krokus, am I right?
malteserabroad 3 years ago
It's a band called Jackyl, song is I Stand Alone
Ekka007 3 years ago
Clap clap clap !. Excellent as always.
kidesqu 3 years ago
Great fall!!!
bowhunter12986 3 years ago
Absolutely AWESOME drop. I will certainly give that a try on some smaller sticks when I get the chance.
rngrchad 3 years ago